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Rb26 trigger setup


turbodailydan

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Yeah my mind is telling me it's smoother but we shall see once it's all mapped up on the new setup

im based in ashford Surrey , you Steve? 

Going to head out and have another play in a min, I was driving it back from my little test area after testing it revs as it should now, but as I was coming back at low rpm it decided to bog down and I could just hear the turbo spooling as if the ignition had just gone mega retarded. I'm going to try advancing the cam sensor housing abit as its currently set on centre, see if that does anything. Might be hitting tdc same time as crank. That's why I was thinking maybe the cam should be set to rising to it detects the trigger sooner than the crank trigger? Ross were saying most people use rising on this setup but they didn't say whether that was for crank and cam or just one so not sure on that one 

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You could try rising on the cam. Probably wont make a difference anyway. It doesnt matter if it hits tdc with the crank as long as it doesnt start triggering on the wrong side of a crank thooth.

 

Im in Norway so not far of time vise then.

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So went and had a play, locked the timing and blipping the throttle could see the timing was retarding back to zero.. Hence it being flat as a pancake. switched the cam trigger to rising and sorted! smooth as silk. Went for a little road test all is good. Done a little log will post shortly 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a little update hitting the dyno soon, all running good apart from start ups can take a while. Any idea why that could be? (Since fitting the triggers)

Also can someone tell me where the fuel pump prime time settings are, as I'm only getting a few seconds of the fuel pump being energised until it fires up. Cheers Dan 

Edited by turbodailydan
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Hi there.

It takes longer to start now as the ecu needs to know where the cylinders are at. This now takes longer as the ecu only gets ONE synksignal from the cam where before it had 6 different lenght synk patterns in the triggerdisk.. A cam LEVEL pattern on the cam will shorten your startup if that is really important.

Prime time is under YOUR aux outputs - aux 6..

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Huh? That....doesnt make sense.

How long does it take to fire it? Shouldnt take more than like 2 crank revolutions for it to synk up and fire.

The prime is only to make sure there is pressure in the fuelsystem before you crank it. 5 secs should be more than enough. Also the pump should start once you crank it.

I guess it is log posting time again mate. Make a log of cranking and starting and lets see whats going on...

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Hi,

Steve is correct here, prime is purely that, if the ECU sees valid trigger 1 and 2 signals / rpm signal basically the pump should keep running while the engine is cranking over.

Hit R or F12 for runtime values and go to AUX tab , look for your FUEL PUMP AUX output and check it's status as you crank the engine.

Then go to Triggers and Limits tab and look for TRIG 1 and TRIG 2 should be GREEN and say yes, in the top of the Left column it should show engine rpm, this should be roughly around 200 rpm or so, higher the better.

Are you sure it is the fuel pump cutting out and just not an incorrect fuel starting setup issue, for example, cranking enrichment, pre crank prime etc etc.

Regards

Dave.

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  • 1 year later...

Hey Steve, i have the Ross 36-2T crank with a cherry/zf  GS100502 hall sensor and the ross 1 tooth cam trigger with a honeywell GT101 hall sensor.  Im not running a link ecu but will i still have issues if my cam and crank cross at the same tooth (timing scatter).  Im not currently running still trying to figure out all my settings. 

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Hey Steve, i have the Ross 36-2T crank with a cherry/zf  GS100502 hall sensor and the ross 1 tooth cam trigger with a honeywell GT101 hall sensor.  Im not running a link ecu but will i still have issues if my cam and crank cross at the same tooth (timing scatter).  Im not currently running still trying to figure out all my settings. 

This is really a question which should be directed to the manufacturer of your ECU as they could very well use a completely different decoding strategy to Link.  However, all the common brands of aftermarket ECU's that I have worked with over the years usually have similar requirements documented - i.e. when using a generic missing tooth trigger mode you dont want the sync edge occurring within the missing tooth gap.

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