Jump to content
Nettlez

Random high engine rpm data logging

Recommended Posts

You shouldnt need to change the trigger 2 settings as per Integral8v's comment, I'm pretty sure it should be fine the way you have it set.  If not we can always try the "trigger priority" setting.

The need to set trigger 2 as Hall effect to avoid trigger errors have been confirmed on 2 seperate m50 non vanons engines (both by Link dealers).  Tried with all sort of settings (trigger arming/filter/trig priority etc) but no good until sett as Hall effect,  But hopefully it works fine on Nettlez`s engine with reluctor (as it should be).

Hi Itegrale8v, I thought I would explain my thoughts behind that comment better in case it came across that I was being rude to you...  I'm not dismissing your idea or experience, I can certainly see that this could be a problem trigger in some cases and your suggestion might be the easiest work around.  In this case however there was an obvious problem (wave form upside down) and I think it is more important to get the basics right first and not change too many things at once.

The issue I have with setting a Hall type input with a VR sensor is based only on my generic ECU knowledge and may not be specific to Link but it usually isnt a good idea.  A VR input circuit is usually designed to cope with about 100V AC, whereas a Hall circuit is typically only designed to handle about battery voltage.  We can see from the trigger scope pics that the OP's cam sensor is already putting out a healthy 4V at just cranking speeds, this voltage will increase by about 10X by redline. So, how long will Link's hall circuit accept short 40V pulses for... I dont know, maybe forever, maybe not.  But if he did end up frying his input circuit because he was using it in a non recommended way then the warranty could certainly be void etc.   The link dealers you talked of might have scoped it at high RPM and had enough confidence that it would be ok, but its not something I would recommend for every user without careful testing and consideration.

I have never touched one of these engines but there are quite possibly other methods you could use to move the two trigger events apart also. For instance you could grind one more tooth off the crank trigger to make it 60-3. And/or you could grind one side of the cam tooth a little so that the wave form gets shifted sideways, or something like an offset key for the crank pulley...  

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Adamw
typo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you using the stock reluctor camshaft sensor?  Set this to Hall effect and rising edge..  The camshaft sync is in the the missing tooth gap on these engines and the Link ECU is not happy with that.  But set as Hall effect / rising edge works.  (pullup off)

seem to be having exact same issue with 2002 imprezza wrx with ej20t,and for the same polarity issues

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Itegrale8v, I thought I would explain my thoughts behind that comment better in case it came across that I was being rude to you...  I'm not dismissing your idea or experience, I can certainly see that this could be a problem trigger in some cases and your suggestion might be the easiest work around.  In this case however there was an obvious problem (wave form upside down) and I think it is more important to get the basics right first and not change too many things at once.

The issue I have with setting a Hall type input with a VR sensor is based only on my generic ECU knowledge and may not be specific to Link but it usually isnt a good idea.  A VR input circuit is usually designed to cope with about 100V AC, whereas a Hall circuit is typically only designed to handle about battery voltage.  We can see from the trigger scope pics that the OP's cam sensor is already putting out a healthy 4V at just cranking speeds, this voltage will increase by about 10X by redline. So, how long will Link's hall circuit accept short 40V pulses for... I dont know, maybe forever, maybe not.  But if he did end up frying his input circuit because he was using it in a non recommended way then the warranty could certainly be void etc.   The link dealers you talked of might have scoped it at high RPM and had enough confidence that it would be ok, but its not something I would recommend for every user without careful testing and consideration.

I have never touched one of these engines but there are quite possibly other methods you could use to move the two trigger events apart also. For instance you could grind one more tooth off the crank trigger to make it 60-3. And/or you could grind one side of the cam tooth a little so that the wave form gets shifted sideways, or something like an offset key for the crank pulley...  

 

 

 

 

 

 

i doubt it wil cause damage cos its the same wire with the same hardware,it's only the computers calibration of the signal that differs

Hi Itegrale8v, I thought I would explain my thoughts behind that comment better in case it came across that I was being rude to you...  I'm not dismissing your idea or experience, I can certainly see that this could be a problem trigger in some cases and your suggestion might be the easiest work around.  In this case however there was an obvious problem (wave form upside down) and I think it is more important to get the basics right first and not change too many things at once.

The issue I have with setting a Hall type input with a VR sensor is based only on my generic ECU knowledge and may not be specific to Link but it usually isnt a good idea.  A VR input circuit is usually designed to cope with about 100V AC, whereas a Hall circuit is typically only designed to handle about battery voltage.  We can see from the trigger scope pics that the OP's cam sensor is already putting out a healthy 4V at just cranking speeds, this voltage will increase by about 10X by redline. So, how long will Link's hall circuit accept short 40V pulses for... I dont know, maybe forever, maybe not.  But if he did end up frying his input circuit because he was using it in a non recommended way then the warranty could certainly be void etc.   The link dealers you talked of might have scoped it at high RPM and had enough confidence that it would be ok, but its not something I would recommend for every user without careful testing and consideration.

I have never touched one of these engines but there are quite possibly other methods you could use to move the two trigger events apart also. For instance you could grind one more tooth off the crank trigger to make it 60-3. And/or you could grind one side of the cam tooth a little so that the wave form gets shifted sideways, or something like an offset key for the crank pulley...  

 

 

 

 

 

yeah tried this on subaru wrx V7-10,better triggerscope but same psuedo rpm spikes,timing scatter and misfire

Hi Itegrale8v, I thought I would explain my thoughts behind that comment better in case it came across that I was being rude to you...  I'm not dismissing your idea or experience, I can certainly see that this could be a problem trigger in some cases and your suggestion might be the easiest work around.  In this case however there was an obvious problem (wave form upside down) and I think it is more important to get the basics right first and not change too many things at once.

The issue I have with setting a Hall type input with a VR sensor is based only on my generic ECU knowledge and may not be specific to Link but it usually isnt a good idea.  A VR input circuit is usually designed to cope with about 100V AC, whereas a Hall circuit is typically only designed to handle about battery voltage.  We can see from the trigger scope pics that the OP's cam sensor is already putting out a healthy 4V at just cranking speeds, this voltage will increase by about 10X by redline. So, how long will Link's hall circuit accept short 40V pulses for... I dont know, maybe forever, maybe not.  But if he did end up frying his input circuit because he was using it in a non recommended way then the warranty could certainly be void etc.   The link dealers you talked of might have scoped it at high RPM and had enough confidence that it would be ok, but its not something I would recommend for every user without careful testing and consideration.

I have never touched one of these engines but there are quite possibly other methods you could use to move the two trigger events apart also. For instance you could grind one more tooth off the crank trigger to make it 60-3. And/or you could grind one side of the cam tooth a little so that the wave form gets shifted sideways, or something like an offset key for the crank pulley...  

 

 

 

 

 

and trigger priority setting not avail in wrx V7-10 trigger menu

 

Hi Itegrale8v, I thought I would explain my thoughts behind that comment better in case it came across that I was being rude to you...  I'm not dismissing your idea or experience, I can certainly see that this could be a problem trigger in some cases and your suggestion might be the easiest work around.  In this case however there was an obvious problem (wave form upside down) and I think it is more important to get the basics right first and not change too many things at once.

The issue I have with setting a Hall type input with a VR sensor is based only on my generic ECU knowledge and may not be specific to Link but it usually isnt a good idea.  A VR input circuit is usually designed to cope with about 100V AC, whereas a Hall circuit is typically only designed to handle about battery voltage.  We can see from the trigger scope pics that the OP's cam sensor is already putting out a healthy 4V at just cranking speeds, this voltage will increase by about 10X by redline. So, how long will Link's hall circuit accept short 40V pulses for... I dont know, maybe forever, maybe not.  But if he did end up frying his input circuit because he was using it in a non recommended way then the warranty could certainly be void etc.   The link dealers you talked of might have scoped it at high RPM and had enough confidence that it would be ok, but its not something I would recommend for every user without careful testing and consideration.

I have never touched one of these engines but there are quite possibly other methods you could use to move the two trigger events apart also. For instance you could grind one more tooth off the crank trigger to make it 60-3. And/or you could grind one side of the cam tooth a little so that the wave form gets shifted sideways, or something like an offset key for the crank pulley...  

 

 

 

 

 

and offset keys bodgy as fuck,i have never used one

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...