Adamw Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Yes it looks like you have Aux 1 on the expansion connector which is capable of PWM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini34 Posted June 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2017 Ok cars running pretty well, 201 atwkw and only 14 psi Track only car and since new engine with new tune i have quite a hestication on gear change, transition off and on throttle Understand this is accel pump where it goes super rich when i jump back on the gas Looking for ideas to try to fix this while at track as this problem cannot be solved on hub dyno Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 16, 2017 Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 Start with a log then either post it here or pass it on to your tuner to take a look. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini34 Posted June 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 I did turn logging on while at track so see what I have and will watch the instructional video. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini34 Posted June 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 Hey AdamThis page talks about PC logging, this is not possible as the problem happens on track so I am presuming ECU logging is the way to go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 16, 2017 Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 Yes the reason is with PC Logging it is unlimited memory and you can log all parameters. With ECU logging you can only log 100 parameters an if you log all of those at full speed it will burn through the memory pretty quick. As we dont know what is the cause of your problem we dont know which parameters to log so you may not capture the problem. Can you not strap a laptop in somewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini34 Posted June 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 I could give it a go and see if scrutineering will let it happen.This is what is sounds like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini34 Posted July 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 (edited) Ok, car has been going good but have come across a problem I am not sure if it is ECU related more a mechanical issue.So all of a sudden the car will not idle below 2,000 RPM when warmed up. Prior when cold it might have been a little erratic and idle high with some hunting but still below 2,000 RPM. Had the thought it might be a vacuum leak and this may still be the case but now the care goes straight to 4,000 RPM or more, I turned it off before causing myself more troubles.As I say it could still be a vacuum leak but wondering if anything in the ECU / tune could cause this sort of problem?I can confirm the DBW throttle plate is closed, as I removed the feed pipe to check.Anyhow, if you have any ideas if the ECU / Tune could be doing this it would be appreciated.I will pull things down to look for leaks, as it is difficult to fault find with an engine at 4,000 RPM. Oh, the car drives on the track ok. It is not like a stuck throttle.Cheers Edited July 24, 2017 by Mini34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted July 24, 2017 Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 (edited) Do us a PC log, attached that and your map here or sent it to tech support. It is quite possibly an ECU setting such as base position/RPM lockout that is stopping the idle control from working when it is hothttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A Edited July 24, 2017 by Adamw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini34 Posted July 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 Hey Adam fyi does it from cold start now also, so not sure if that makes a difference. Is this his base position something that can change on its own? the log is required while running? just reluctant to stat and moment as 4,000 RPM warm up idle is not ideal but if it has to be done then it has to be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini34 Posted July 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 Emailed base map and logs to tech support Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini34 Posted July 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 Found the problem and it was a vacuum leak. A BIG Vacuum Leak!!!!! Some large cracks and pieces missing from a near new intercooler will do that. Thanks for you help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbbeyMS Posted August 12, 2017 Report Share Posted August 12, 2017 Is this the Mini Harrop used for some development on the Harrop TVS900 SC conversion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini34 Posted September 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2017 (edited) Just putting a new fuel system in and this will include a FlexFuel Sensor, so presuming this will require a digital input on the expansion cable?Is this the Mini Harrop used for some development on the Harrop TVS900 SC conversion?Yes Edited September 2, 2017 by Mini34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 2, 2017 Report Share Posted September 2, 2017 Just putting a new fuel system in and this will include a FlexFuel Sensor, so presuming this will require a digital input on the expansion cable?Yes you have DI8 & DI9 on the Exp connector that can do ECS, or you could also use DI7 which is available on pin 9 of the OBD2 socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini34 Posted September 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 Thanks AdamWould any of the other spare old sensor wires work also i.e. either of the old narrow band 02 sensors, fuel vapor purge valve ETC. Either way I have the expansion cable as the fall back.Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 4, 2017 Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 You have DI7 sitting there all lonely with nothing to do, that would be my pick.The only other one I see that may be spare would be DI2 which is labelled "cruise control pwm", on pin 54. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini34 Posted September 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 Hi Adam Ok, cant leave DI7 sitting all lonesome. I will use that.Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini34 Posted November 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 Wasted a day at the track with constant TPS fault 75 Tried to calibrate, didnt make any difference Tried to simulate in the car park but could get it to fault, so murphys law it happens within 200 metre of going on track No full throttle at by this stage on track, more like a constant 25% with light application with cold slicks. I had this ince before at sandown but it ssems to clear itself eventually, plus i could reset without PC. Power off - on but not this time Any ideas? Thinking of changing tnrottle body but wanted to confirm this fault is totally related to throttle bodyy blade and sensors within? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 5, 2017 Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 Fault 75 means the throttle blade is not sitting at the commanded position for some period of time. This could be caused by almost anything but I would say more likely a settings issue rather than hardware. Next time you have any dramas like that I suggest you set up ECU logging to capture some relevant parameters. In this case AP sub & main, TP sub and main, E-Throttle target, TP/target error accumulator, TP error accumulator and EThrottle motor DC would have probably given us a really good idea of where the problem lay. Can you do us a 1 or 2 minute log of you working the pedal/throttle - do a range of fast, slow, wot, partial throttle presses and holds at various openings. Post it and your map so we can take a look if there are any clues. You dont need to drive or even have engine running. You can change the "when stalled" setting to "run throttle" so that the throttle will work without engine running (you will have to put it into setup mode to change this setting but please but it back into "on" mode for the log). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini34 Posted November 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 Thanks Adam, funny as it hasnt shown this problem for mkst the year if a set up Just been on the dyno and obviously didnt see anything there and can drive in car park but the moment i set tyres on the track BAMMMM limp mode lol I can run the car in the workshop and even run in gear on stands for logs if you like Ill look at it tomorrow Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini34 Posted November 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 Do i need the E-throttle ON set up mode - on or ON? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 5, 2017 Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 Put it back to “ON” mode when you are doing the log. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini34 Posted November 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 For the logging have it on set up and when finished put in back to On? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 5, 2017 Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 No, I want it set to “ON” mode for the log. This is because in setup mode all errors are ignored so it may be more difficult to see what the ECU is not happy about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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