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llabmik2

643whp MINI Cooper S

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Hey guys.


Posting up my 643whp Mini build. Not sure if you guys want a long post or just the jist of it. So Ill be short and sweet.

 

It is currently the record holding MINI in the world for HP. Would have made more with traction.

2005 MINI Cooper S
 

1.,7L RMW stroker--Carrllio Rods//High Compression coated Arias pistons//RMW billet crank//RMW head//RMW cam//RMW intake Manifold

JCFab turbo kit using EFR8374 Twin scroll housing dual wastegate and exhaust dump out the hood

Insane Shaft 1000hp axles

Quaife diff

Fic 2150's with a Walbro 450 in tank at 18V and a external DW 350 at 18V Running E85-E100///Static pressure set at 50psi

Tuned by me on a Vipec I series PnP (Link G4+ now) 

Car made 640whp at 31psi in 3rd gear at 4600ft of elevation uncorrected. Couldn't keep it from spinning on the dyno. No where on the front of the car to rachet down tight enough. Going to a hub dyno. Shooting for 710-730whp before upgrading to the EFR9174 and shooting for 850whp

 

 

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Couple videos

Testing out the traction control and Rolling Anti-Lag with the Link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBP1oXMV0N0

 


Quick second to third gear pull on MT 225/15 Drag radials

 

 

 

Edited by llabmik2

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Thanks for the post. Very interesting to see what can be done.

When you run the traction control alone what value of slip are you targeting? Also, does the ECU achieve the targeted slip as expected?

Scott

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With the drag radials on the front and regular street tires on the back, the targeted slip is 12%. That includes the tire size difference. With 100% traction on low boost the slip is 6% between front and back. So Targeting 12% has seamed to give me the best grip using the acceleration reading. Anymore more and the traction control just wants to go into a cycle. Any less and It doesn't accelerate at hard.

 

With the current PID settings, it targets it well and maintains it. I was having a big over shoot when I first started messing with it, It would only overshoot on the initial cut, and it would cut so hard it would then cycle a little then flatten out. Now I can pretty much hold 12-14% solid while spinning depending on road conditions and temperature.

Only thing I wish could be changed currently would be two things.

One for traction control. On DBW cars like mine, it would also be awesome to use one of the 3 DBW tables as an overlay with referencing slip to control it even better using spark, and throttle.

Then on the Rolling Anti-lag (latch rpm) I wish it could be used in conjunction with launch control not one or the other. So I can have LC activating off the clutch switch, and then latch RPM acting off a switch, without having to hook up my laptop to change those settings.

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Ok cool, it sounds like you have it working well. I'll forward your suggestions regarding e-throttle and launch control to the engineers. I'm pretty sure the e-throttle overlay one is already on the request list.

Scott

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One for traction control. On DBW cars like mine, it would also be awesome to use one of the 3 DBW tables as an overlay with referencing slip to control it even better using spark, and throttle

I havent played with many turbo cars to speak from experience but I have heard a few very experienced tuners say on a reasonably powerful turbo car, using DBW for slip control doesnt work well.  I suspect because you have to close the throttle a long way to get a relatively small torque reduction it becomes a big lazy control loop.  I know some that have incorporated popping open the BOV (usually with CO2) to get a quick torque reduction.

Edited by Adamw
typo

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llabmik2, nice build and so good result and flat curve with smoothing 0. I like it

Thanks. Lots of time into the map. AFR is locked in pretty well, after lean spooling it, it flattens out and stays there. Timing is also very smooth. I like to tune cars that not only make power but run smooth also.

I havent played with many turbo cars to speak from experience but I have heard a few very experienced tuners say on a reasonably powerful turbo car, using DBW for slip control doesnt work well.  I suspect because you have to close the throttle a long way to get a relatively small torque reduction it becomes a big lazy control loop.  I know some that have incorporated popping open the BOV (usually with CO2) to get a quick torque reduction.

Hmmm. Never thought about it. I know the spark cut on the current traction control works well and works fast, I was just thinking that for more of a corner carving car, that DBW mapping might work well.

Edited by llabmik2

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