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nigel.wade

Link G1 Plus Identification

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Hi, 

I purchased an old Link ECU (G1 Plus) on Trademe. (you may face palm now). The plan is to use this to get a 1uz-fe with ITB's running, then turbo motor, run through certification and upgrade once car's legal. After which the ecu will be used to convert an old pre 70's engine to efi. 

There are so many things to sort out with this project, the fact this is an old ecu isn't a problem. I realize a newer ecu would be idea but there's so much work left to do to set this car up something interim will serve the purpose for now. 

I am wondering if

  • does this ecu has the right daughter board to run with the 1uz-fe factory trigger wheel. 
  • what exactly do I have, the ecu chip has the number "LPV14 161003" where the case has a sticker with "LPV14 141003" on it. 
  • how many injector drivers does this have, etc. 
  • are there possible upgrades for this unit ?

Thanks in advance, 

Nigel Wade

 

20170801_151206[1].jpg

20170801_151250[1].jpg

Edited by nigel.wade

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Serial Number is: 002630 (2003/04)

Daughter Board Chip has this on the chip

  • 2cd3eok
  • LM324N  

The case has (on a sticker). 

  • Link Plus
  • Reluctor
  • LPV14/141003 on it 

One last question. my friend has a 20v silver top test engine (turbo). we were wonder if this ecu can be use on that engine without mods, he was hoping to have a play with it for a month or two until i'm less busy and can work on my car project. 

Edited by nigel.wade

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Hopefully you are not in a desperate hurry.  @Simon is the man to answer this one but he has been off sick for the last couple of days.   If you can wait a little longer he may post a more concrete answer when he's back in action.

Looking through our documentation (Simon's brain has far more G1 info than our paper records) I think that sub board may only do "1 tooth per TDC" type triggers and wont do your "multitooth" set up.

If that subboard does need changing that is quite an expensive job and is often hard to justify (nearly half the cost of replacing it with a new Atom).

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In its current set up that ECU requires one tooth per TDC triggering so for the lexus would be 4 teeth on the crank 1 on the cam or the 20V would be 4 teeth in CAS and 1 tooth sync.

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Hi Simon, 

Thanks very much for clarifying that, just a couple of questions to make things clearer in my mind. 

I get why the 20v 4AGE needs 4 TDC points on the CAS to tell the ECU when to fire, and sync to clarify the place in the stroke ?. 

The v8, you noted also needs 4 CASE points, and one sync. I did wonder if that was a typo. Did you mean 8 points CAS. 

With 4 CAS points on the v8, would it paired injectors, and wasted spark ? how would the ECU know when the other 4 CAS points were. 

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Your ECU/Sub-board combo needs 2 triggers:  1 tooth per TDC and a separate "sync tooth" once per cycle.

 

"Trigger 1" on the 1UZ is usually on the crank shaft - the crankshaft turns twice for one engine cycle.  So 4 teeth on the crank, twice per cycle = 8 teeth/8 cylinders = 1 tooth/TDC.

"Trigger 1" on the 4AG is usually on the cam - the cam turns once per engine cycle, so 4 teeth on cam = 4 teeth/4 cylinders = 1 tooth/TDC. 

 

"Trigger 2" is going to be the same on both - 1 tooth at cam speed.  

 

 

If that subboard does need changing that is quite an expensive job and is often hard to justify (nearly half the cost of replacing it with a new Atom).

My statement here wasnt quite correct either.  If we do have the required sub-board in stock, I'm told the change over cost is actually quite modest - unfortunately in this case though we no longer have any of the old Toyota subboards in stock so your only option is either to change the trigger or change to a different ECU.

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