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3uzfe basemap running too rich


BulletFactory

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Hi all

I have my 3uzfe running off the 1uz vvti basemap on my link G4+ xtreme but its running pretty rich at the moment. I'm going to be converting to MAP and wideband before i take it to my tuner, but for now i am just running MAF and narrowband. Is there anything i can do to lean it out abit? I just want to be able to run in up to temperature and make sure everythings okay before i take it to the dyno as its quite a long drive to get there and don't want to have any problems, but its super smokey and rich. I've uploaded my basemap with a log of it running for around 30 seconds. I will be doing MAP conversion and Link can lambda in the next month.

 

Many thanks

Rich running map.llg

Rich running map 3uz.pclr

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As an addition to this, i've decided to order my map and widebands today and not run it any longer until they are fitted.

What Link map sensor should i go for, for naturally aspirated tuning? 2 bar?

Will 2 AEM widebands be okay? One for each bank. Running 2 link can lambdas will get expensive, so looking at alternative kits now. 

Thanks

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I have ordered the 1.15 bar link map sensor so will get that fitted this week. Does the 1uz vvti basemap already have calibration for the map sensor? 

Also Adam, do you think 2 AEM X series wideband sensors is ideal for V8 application in terms of tuning each bank, or will just one wideband on one bank be sufficiant? 

Thanks

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The 1.15Bar sensor calibration is in the list.

TKvNGDG.png

 

3 hours ago, BulletFactory said:

do you think 2 AEM X series wideband sensors is ideal for V8 application in terms of tuning each bank, or will just one wideband on one bank be sufficiant? 

The intake manifold on the UZ looks reasonably well designed from a symmetry point of view so I wouldnt expect significant bank to bank variation.  You could probably get away with just one probe.

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I have installed and calibrated my 1.15 link map sensor and it runs much better now, just waiting for my Innovate widebands to get here. 

there are two things im hoping you can help me with..

Idle control, i have changed it to E throttle closed loop idle control as i am using e throttle, but my idle is very high and sits at 1800 rpm no matter what the temperature, do you have any basic figures i can use to tune this so it doesn't idle so high.

Also, VVT position, whilst running if i look at runtime values both VVT positions are just displayed as "OFF". Would this be due to my wiring or is this something that requires setting up? My oil control solenoids register as "ON"

I have attached my basemap and a log whilst running

Thanks

 

high idle log.llg

3UZ COMPLETE MAP.pclr

For reference with my VVT position sensors:

VVT1+         to        DI4

VVT1-          to        Shield Ground

VVT2 +       to        DI3

VVT2-         to        Shield Ground

Is this correct?

Thankyou

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Looking at the log it looks like the idle control was locked out due to wanting a speed input.

However the MAP suggest this has been turned off. Check this is actually the case when live with the ECU.

However the throttle is sitting at 1.1% open and the RPM is still high this would indicate either the throttle is not calibrated correctly and is actually open more than it thinks, or there is an air leak elsewhere.

The VVT is operating and reporting the correct positions. Are you looking at the status in the runtimes window? (F12)

 

 

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Thanks for the reply Simon

Yes i'm monitoring everything through F12 runtime values window. I notice that on idle control it's requesting speed also, and the parameter below that "idle target?" if i remember always states -500 ish rpm and is highlighted red, but i will confirm and check this tomorrow when i'm back with the car.

 

I figured it may be down to e throttle calibration as ive had alot of issues with getting it set up so ive been hesistant since to play around with it. 

I know the vvt oil control states "on" for both solenoids, but i didn't know if the ecu was actually reading vvt position from the two intake cam sensors as the vvt position just states "off" in the runtime values. i was hoping to be able to see live vvt positions just to make sure the ecu can read cam position and confirm my wiring is correct, but if you can see that it is then i'm happy with that. 

I shall have a play with the e throttle tomorrow and see if i can figure it out

Thanks

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All sorted Simon, thankyou! Re-calibrated my APS and TPS and it idles perfectly now. My original TPS main was reading 5% on idle, now it's 1.2% which makes sense as it would have been holding the throttle open with the original calibration

 

Another question for you. I want to use my oem fuel level sender to display fuel % on my link tablet dash. If i use an temp 3 with 1k pullup resistor enabled, would this be sufficient to display fuel level if worked out a cal table for it? I believe my oem sender scale is 4ohms to 120ohms

 

Regards

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4 hours ago, BulletFactory said:

Another question for you. I want to use my oem fuel level sender to display fuel % on my link tablet dash. If i use an temp 3 with 1k pullup resistor enabled, would this be sufficient to display fuel level if worked out a cal table for it? I believe my oem sender scale is 4ohms to 120ohms

You will need a pullup more like 200ohm will also need some heavy filtering to prevent the reading bouncing up and down with fuel slosh.   I will post a circuit you can try later.

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On 12/20/2017 at 3:08 PM, Adamw said:

I will post a circuit you can try later.

Try below.  If your level sensor resistance is 4-120Ohm, then this will give you an output something like 0.2V -2.7V.  The filter will dampen a "step change" over about 1minute.

MmYGca7.png

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  • 3 years later...

Hi,

I copied this circuit as I have a similar range fuel level sender. 

However my range seems to be a lot smaller, about 1.4V - 2.7V. 

Also I seem to be getting 0 damping from the  cap circuit. 

The level sender is 2 wires with the other being connected to ground. 

The negative of the capacitor is also connected to ground. 

Does anyone have any suggestions? 

The sender unit measured 4-140 ohm's 

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  • 2 years later...

@Adamw isn't it possible to filter fuel level on the software?

I guess the road cars do it and are not using filter right after engine start to immediately adapt after refueling.

I want this to make easier my refuel on track side as I'll be alone with no team to calculate how much fuel to put and finish with a minimum of fuel. 

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30 minutes ago, Adamw said:

You need the pull-up to make a voltage divider circuit which converts the sensor's variable resistance into a variable voltage.  

Ah I forgot that only AN Temp inputs have internal pull-ups.

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  • 2 months later...

Up to this... Sorry for hijacking this thread...

I was able to make the fue level work (adjusted with the components I have available as in the below pic) --- I got the high level (as of the moment the tank is full) but I have to wait for the actual reading of the empty level to adjust my linear calibration. The full sweep of the floater seems to read 0.675V to 4.900V.
*Vehicle also on 4-120 Ohm unit.
*10SQ050 Schottky diode for isolation added - as the stock gauge 12V fuel level sensor is still connected in parallel.

Edit: Too much fluctuation on fuel sloshing in tank. I changed the 10K to 100K Ohms. 

image.png.09da99dcede2e7904222bdbffcdca875.png

@Adamw Ummm... I have the fuel level assigned to 'MAF Meter' to make it show in OBD2 (just changed the label on the app, but I cannot change the unit showing). I'm wondering if there's any better option - while there's no dedicated analog input for 'Fuel Level'. B)

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