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loading a start file for my 1uz cressida


cuttz

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So the centre relay has both top and bottom activity with ignition. The end relay on the left has a battery on the bottom and ignition on the top.

Does it matter witch one I jump the ignition from? Or does it have to be the relay that has the battery going straight to it?

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any idea why the engine fans didn't come on or is it that it wasn't up to temp yet? as i cant find a basic setup for them apart from the aux 2 witch just give me the polarity witch is set on low 

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3 hours ago, cuttz said:

any idea why the engine fans didn't come on or is it that it wasn't up to temp yet? as i cant find a basic setup for them apart from the aux 2 witch just give me the polarity witch is set on low 

Your log screenshot only shows your water temp got to about 60°C so I wouldnt be expecting the fan to turn on at that..

You can do a quick test for the fan, first set aux 2 to "test(on)" mode, the fan should turn on when you do that.  If it doesnt you need to look at the wiring.  The fan settings can be found a little further down the aux settings menu:

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Awesome stuff thanks. 

Next question. The idle is really high as I have to add the master fuel up to 23 to get it to run.

Is there a way to control that a bit better or do I just leave all that for a tuner?

Oh also the knock control ATM I have that off do I turn that on? Or leave that for a tuner also

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So testing the engine fan 1 now I hear the relay click but fan doesn't run. So I'll get the sparky to check that also.

I also have a tach match installed on aux out 4 to change my v8 to a 6 signal for my tacho. That relay also clicks but doesn't give me my dash. 

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On 4/7/2018 at 8:25 PM, cuttz said:

Awesome stuff thanks. 

Next question. The idle is really high as I have to add the master fuel up to 23 to get it to run.

Is there a way to control that a bit better or do I just leave all that for a tuner?

Oh also the knock control ATM I have that off do I turn that on? Or leave that for a tuner also

Leave knock control off until it is fully tuned.  Your idle is high because your idle control hasnt been set up at all.  Try the settings below as a starting point.  Get the engine warm, if it is not idling at a reasonable RPM then highlight the whole base position table and bump the whole table up or down with your Q or A keys.  A bigger number in the table = lower RPM.

M36i3py.png

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On 4/8/2018 at 11:23 AM, cuttz said:

I also have a tach match installed on aux out 4 to change my v8 to a 6 signal for my tacho. That relay also clicks but doesn't give me my dash.

Just remove this and run aux4 straight to your tacho. You can set a multiplier in the tacho out settings so that the DI output will be what a mismatched tacho will expect multiplier of 0.75 should be right for a v8 on a 6cyl tacho. Dont expect your key on sweep to be perfect though and dont use that to "tune" your tacho multiplier they tend to be a couple hundred rpm off. get it idling and only adjust this if the logged rpm value doesnt match the tacho needle.

image.png.ac6ae754bd18db8c7bc37fdaf1894513.png

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So remove the tach match all together and wire aux 4 straight to the dash? Is this right?

And then the ECU can make my dash work. Just in the settings?

 

also like to give a big thanks to all for the help so far

with out the support i would be up shit creek without a paddle. 

very appreciative guys

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I might have missed it, but what car is the engine in?  Depending on what the tacho originally saw, you may need to add a tacho booster to drive it from the ECU output.  I had to do this with my old MX83

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No it doesnt look like that will work.  There are two common types of tachos.  Most modern tachos are what we call a "low level tacho", they are designed for electronic ignition or ECU control and work off a 0-12V signal.  Older tachos (mostly from when cars still had points) used what they call a "high level tacho", these were normally connected directly to the negative side of the coil so where designed to work with the 50-400V spike that would be present there.  Your cressida has a high level tacho.  The diagram that JMP attached above is designed to convert the 0-12V signal from the ECU into a higher voltage spike that will drive the tacho.  

You can DIY as above, or you can buy ready made devices like this one:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/TACHOMETER-SIGNAL-BOOSTER-SPARK-COIL-SIMULATOR-3-16V-Input-55V-Output-/142171581596  MSD and others sell them also.

Alternatively, most older cars with high level tachos you can remove a resistor from the back of the tacho to turn it into a low level tacho.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So fingers crossed my tach booster shows up tomorrow. It's the one you linked me so should work.

Just trying to find a oil pressure switch reducer for my new oil relocation from pro flow. 

As I a small oil leak I needed to fix so decided to redo the whole oil filter setup with the correct pro flow fitting and housing so shouldnt have anymore leaks. 

Then I can work out the idle and tach and fans then should be good to go

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