Jump to content
cuttz

loading a start file for my 1uz cressida

Recommended Posts

IMG_20180406_180512.jpg

So the centre relay has both top and bottom activity with ignition. The end relay on the left has a battery on the bottom and ignition on the top.

Does it matter witch one I jump the ignition from? Or does it have to be the relay that has the battery going straight to it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok seem the fuel pump is working now. Big thanks for finding that issue.

Still won't start tho

It's alive

355 deg on the timing and it's alive

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can I email someone the log file I recorded.

Also my engine fans didn't come on? 

It needs me to ad fuel to around 23 to get it to start but then it's reving really high

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

any idea why the engine fans didn't come on or is it that it wasn't up to temp yet? as i cant find a basic setup for them apart from the aux 2 witch just give me the polarity witch is set on low 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, cuttz said:

any idea why the engine fans didn't come on or is it that it wasn't up to temp yet? as i cant find a basic setup for them apart from the aux 2 witch just give me the polarity witch is set on low 

Your log screenshot only shows your water temp got to about 60°C so I wouldnt be expecting the fan to turn on at that..

You can do a quick test for the fan, first set aux 2 to "test(on)" mode, the fan should turn on when you do that.  If it doesnt you need to look at the wiring.  The fan settings can be found a little further down the aux settings menu:

GvP722Q.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome stuff thanks. 

Next question. The idle is really high as I have to add the master fuel up to 23 to get it to run.

Is there a way to control that a bit better or do I just leave all that for a tuner?

Oh also the knock control ATM I have that off do I turn that on? Or leave that for a tuner also

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So testing the engine fan 1 now I hear the relay click but fan doesn't run. So I'll get the sparky to check that also.

I also have a tach match installed on aux out 4 to change my v8 to a 6 signal for my tacho. That relay also clicks but doesn't give me my dash. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/7/2018 at 8:25 PM, cuttz said:

Awesome stuff thanks. 

Next question. The idle is really high as I have to add the master fuel up to 23 to get it to run.

Is there a way to control that a bit better or do I just leave all that for a tuner?

Oh also the knock control ATM I have that off do I turn that on? Or leave that for a tuner also

Leave knock control off until it is fully tuned.  Your idle is high because your idle control hasnt been set up at all.  Try the settings below as a starting point.  Get the engine warm, if it is not idling at a reasonable RPM then highlight the whole base position table and bump the whole table up or down with your Q or A keys.  A bigger number in the table = lower RPM.

M36i3py.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/8/2018 at 11:23 AM, cuttz said:

I also have a tach match installed on aux out 4 to change my v8 to a 6 signal for my tacho. That relay also clicks but doesn't give me my dash.

Just remove this and run aux4 straight to your tacho. You can set a multiplier in the tacho out settings so that the DI output will be what a mismatched tacho will expect multiplier of 0.75 should be right for a v8 on a 6cyl tacho. Dont expect your key on sweep to be perfect though and dont use that to "tune" your tacho multiplier they tend to be a couple hundred rpm off. get it idling and only adjust this if the logged rpm value doesnt match the tacho needle.

image.png.ac6ae754bd18db8c7bc37fdaf1894513.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So remove the tach match all together and wire aux 4 straight to the dash? Is this right?

And then the ECU can make my dash work. Just in the settings?

 

also like to give a big thanks to all for the help so far

with out the support i would be up shit creek without a paddle. 

very appreciative guys

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I might have missed it, but what car is the engine in?  Depending on what the tacho originally saw, you may need to add a tacho booster to drive it from the ECU output.  I had to do this with my old MX83

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No it doesnt look like that will work.  There are two common types of tachos.  Most modern tachos are what we call a "low level tacho", they are designed for electronic ignition or ECU control and work off a 0-12V signal.  Older tachos (mostly from when cars still had points) used what they call a "high level tacho", these were normally connected directly to the negative side of the coil so where designed to work with the 50-400V spike that would be present there.  Your cressida has a high level tacho.  The diagram that JMP attached above is designed to convert the 0-12V signal from the ECU into a higher voltage spike that will drive the tacho.  

You can DIY as above, or you can buy ready made devices like this one:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/TACHOMETER-SIGNAL-BOOSTER-SPARK-COIL-SIMULATOR-3-16V-Input-55V-Output-/142171581596  MSD and others sell them also.

Alternatively, most older cars with high level tachos you can remove a resistor from the back of the tacho to turn it into a low level tacho.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok so I'll buy the one posted above. Pitry it's in the states can't find them in au eBay. Probably take 3 weeks to get to Victoria

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So fingers crossed my tach booster shows up tomorrow. It's the one you linked me so should work.

Just trying to find a oil pressure switch reducer for my new oil relocation from pro flow. 

As I a small oil leak I needed to fix so decided to redo the whole oil filter setup with the correct pro flow fitting and housing so shouldnt have anymore leaks. 

Then I can work out the idle and tach and fans then should be good to go

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...