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Ghibli Setup

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Hi,

I've recently purchased a G4+ Xtreme which is intended for my 1997 Maserati Ghibli Cup.

Have you any setup information that could help with building the base map and parameters to work with the stock sensors and other hardware where possible

thanks

Nick

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Nick the best thing to do is use the sheet than come with the ECU and assign inputs and outputs to jobs , 

i am not sure what trigger the car uses but wire up trig 1 to crakshart & trig 2 to cam and use the triggerscooe to identify the mode.

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Hi,

yes I've got original wiring diagrams for car and all the specs for the sensors so will be doing as you suggestthis. My intention is to use two scrap ECUs that I have to make a link loom between the OE ECU connectors and the new link ECU. Main reason for this is that the car is quite rare and preserve its value I want to be able to revert the car back to stock as easily as possible if I sell. So no cutting into looms etc unless absolutely necessary. I'll also be using all of the original sensors and other hardware for the same reason. A setup file may help getting the thing working without too much programming of individual characteristics for sensors and actuators.

The standard trigger pattern on these cars is just 3 pulses per crank revolution with a single pulse coming form each inlet cam to give the timing synchronization signal. This is not sufficient so I'm going to be getting a second hand crank pulley and getting it machined to take a 36-1 or 60-2 trigger wheel fitted. The intention is to get the same OD and axial position with this trigger wheel as the OE triggers so the original reluctance sensor will work in its original bracket (which also gives a few degrees adjustment in the bracket to help get things spot on).

I'm hoping for some basic map help to get thing sup and running in terms of sensor, injector, coil setup plus basic timing and fuelling map to start from.

Steep learning curve but as they say "we do these things not because they're easy but because they are hard" :)

I notice you're in Brands Hatch, not too far from me. Do you have experience of these engines and tuning thereof, specifically the Ghibli?

cheers

Nick

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Firstly I am sure I have worked with this car many years ago if I remember this is the rough layout, excuse me for rambling if I am wrong.

You have 2 Marelli ECU's 1 on each bank (the ECU can only handle max 4 cylinder each) each reading from their own 60 degree offset crank sensors, if this is the case, a higher resolution sensor may be better but not essential, the link will be quite ok on 3 and 1 cam/sync pulse. 

You may be able to put a disk on the back of your crank pulley with some screws, which you could also remove and the holes would be invisible.

You use BLK3 Ignition Amps that have internal Dwell control, We use an adaptor loom for these that will take 3 inputs into a Link 3 Way Ignition Amplifier, so only 2 amps need to be fitted to the car.

The Air (Weber ATS04) and Water Temp (Weber ATS05) sensors are all standard Bosch NTC calibrations.

The TPS is PF09 standard 0-5v sensor

The Turbos have AMAL valves 20Hz operation

The Idle valve is from a Fiat, you need to make sure it is the type with a diode inside and if not fit one across it to stop flyback again we use 20Hz.

The fuel pump relay is triggered from ECU1

I am sure the injectors are Weber and High impedance but check this with a multimeter set to ohms.

 

I am right by the Circuit so your always welcome to pop in and see us for help :)

 


 

 

 

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Thanks for the help guys. much appreciated. I'll certainly contact that guy to see if he can offer some advice or even a base map of some sort.

I was under the impression that 1 tooth per TDC would not be sufficient for Link firmware but may have confused this with advice from one of your competitors while I was researching which ECU to go for. The job may have just got a bit simpler but I'm not worried about doing this if there may be some benefit in terms of timing accuracy, knock windowing or idle control. Maybe something to consider later once the basic set up is complete?

Your memory's pretty good for the car spec, think mine may be later as the specs are a bit different. having looked at some of the spare hardware I have and the specs are:-

  • TPS: Marelli PF10
  • Crank/Cam Sensors : Marelli SEN 8D
  • Ign amp: Marelli BKL 3BD (6 amps in total - 1 per coil)
  • Injectors : Marelli IW-031 (high Impedance) - I'm expecting to have to change thee to a high flow

The standard AMAL valve was replaced a while ago with an HLS stepper motor type controller which I'm guessing can't be controlled by the link so will be reverting to the standard valve. Does this give sufficiently good boost control or would it be advised to go for something more modern? Don't mind non-standard if there's a benefit as it's easily reverted to stock if necessary.

Idle valve is the green top type, Originally the car had the grey top valve which was thought to be the right spec but the engine always hunted at idle. much. When I eventually found a s/h green top valve this cured the idling issues. Do you know if the diode you're referring to is the difference between grey and green versions of this valve?

I'll certainly look you up next time I'm round Brands, thanks  

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Glad the old fluffy stuff between the ears is still working.

So the ignition amps will need changing as I mentioned above.

PF10 is fine

SEN8D is VR type, again no problem

I stock modern injectors should you want to upgrade in either 550 or 1000cc

I would change to a Link Boost valve again we stock these, they will provide perfect closed loop control.

I dont know on the idle valve but again you can check with diode test on a multimeter.

01474 850666 if you want to chat www.shopbhp.com

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6 hours ago, ClintBHP said:

The Idle valve is from a Fiat, you need to make sure it is the type with a diode inside and if not fit one across it to stop flyback again we use 20Hz.

I thought I would clarify this comment, All G4+ Link ECU auxiliary outputs have built-in flyback protection.  Only if you want to drive an idle valve using an ignition or injector output you will need an external diode.

 

6 hours ago, ClintBHP said:

You use BLK3 Ignition Amps that have internal Dwell control, We use an adaptor loom for these that will take 3 inputs into a Link 3 Way Ignition Amplifier, so only 2 amps need to be fitted to the car.

I agree that it would be nicer to convert to 3 channel ignitors, but Link will also control the stock ones perfectly fine if he wants to keep them.  For "smart" ignitors like this you just switch dwell mode to "duty cycle" in PC Link.

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16 hours ago, Adamw said:

  For "smart" ignitors like this you just switch dwell mode to "duty cycle" in PC Link.

Adam,

 

where is this situated in the Link G4+ software please

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1 hour ago, AbbeyMS said:

Adam,

 

where is this situated in the Link G4+ software please

Ignition Main, Dwell Mode, Mark, I tested it today works perfect.

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