SteveX Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 Hi All, I've got my car in for mapping, the mapper says that the VVTI system is unresponsive, yet the engine builder says that the VVTI was operating before the new engine was fitted in my car. The mapper can see the solonoid and the cam position sensor but the VVTI is unresponsive? They aren't sure what to try, as the chap that built the engine said both the solonoid and oil channel is fine in the engine, and it was functioning prior to the link being used. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClintBHP Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 A simple test anyone can do is with the engine stopped run an Aux out test on the valve and you will hear it click, if it does click then there is probably a mechanical issue with the engine; If it does not click then you have an ECU/Wiring issue. A more in depth test is to press F12 with the engine running and look at the actual VVT Data, which should show actual angles if the settings are correct. SteveX 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveX Posted January 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 Thanks clint i’ll pass this info on and see what they say I’ve passed on the info. I don’t suppose anyone knows what the vvti system needa in order to function? I get that it needs good oil pressure and the cam position sensor (and a working vvt solonoid / ocv). Is there anything else the link vvti function would need in order for it to opperate? **edit** They said they couldn’t hear a click from the solonoid. It was registered on the ecu and they could see the sensor but it wouldn’t do anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClintBHP Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 20 minutes ago, SteveX said: They said they couldn’t hear a click from the solonoid. It was registered on the ecu and they could see the sensor but it wouldn’t do anything. Ok then they need to check they have it set to the correct AUX out, one side of the solenoid should have 14v and the other side should goto the Pin on the ECU that corresponds with the AUX output that is configured in the Link ECU. What ECU do you have ? All the outputs are short circuit protected and very rarely fail (I have never seen a failure) so I would think this is definitely a configuration issue rather than a hardware issue, however you can always move the VVT to one of the other AUX (needs to be AUX1 - AUX4) out to check if the driver has failed. BUT please get them to press F12 with the engine running and scroll to the right and select VVT and send you a picture of the screen so you can post it here. SteveX 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveX Posted January 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 Spot on thanks for that! I just simulated it on a 1zz motor I have here on my stand and by feeding 12v to the solonoid there is a definite audiable clack. I’ll ask cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveX Posted January 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 Hi, Here's the info from the tuner, I guess the best thing for now is to disable VVTI on the ECU, and tune as best without VVTI, then I can get the motor back and do some parts swapping from my old motor, if I can get the VVTI working then they said I can take it back and they can make so adjustments to take into account the VVTI (as the majority of the base setup will be done). They also said likely with the turbo and once tuned properly, I probably won't notice the difference between using or not using VVTI. The engine builder is adamant VVTI was working on the motor before putting into my car with the new ECU and kit though and all parts were good, so it's a stalemate sadly, and I can't burn money on them trying to rip it apart and diagnose as they are saying the ECU etc is all reading and doing what it should but VVTI just doesn't function, below is their response to me: I scoped the output from the ECU to the vvti solenoid at both the ECU and the solenoid. The trace on the scope follows the output from the ECU exactly. When we run the car and make changes to the vvti cam map, the target and actual cam angles are visible both in runtime data and also on the dedicated cam setup layout I have setup in the link software. The cam angle target follows the map precisely and the scope trace follows the solenoid duty output from the ECU, but there is no change in cam angle. The various inputs required are all showing correctly and I did double check (and correct) the cam offset angle as it was 6 degrees out. I have to admit you cannot hear the solenoid clicking as it only receives 12v once the engine is running in order to prevent incorrect valve timing on startup. So either the solenoid has failed, which I can check tomorrow with a 12v jumper or the engine isn’t allowing the cam to swing. Oh they just tested the solenoid with an external power source and it's dead, the OCV doesn't actuate when a power source is applied to it. I have a spare working one here I can ship. They can replace but it's going to cost, either that or they can map without VVTI, I bring it home change the parts myself for free, then they remote in and confirm whether it is working and if it is, I schedule going back for some adjustments. Difficult one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClintBHP Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 I haver found correctly mapped VVTI can make a lot of difference. Glad you got to the bottom of the issue. SteveX 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveX Posted January 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 Thanks Clint for your help and advice and taking the time to respond, I decided to ship the part to them to swap out, so fingers crossed that sorts it and then they can map with VVTI. Just have to keep everything crossed and wait patiently now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Baker Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 Just to update this... there is a break in the 12v supply to the solenoid. Although it gets 10.7v, it’s not able to supply much current. A new 12v feed has cured the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClintBHP Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 Awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nvy Posted August 8, 2018 Report Share Posted August 8, 2018 Hey, Im sorry to revive this thread but to OP, i will be building the same engine and i need some info: Can you please give me some info on your setup? Do you have the ECU as standalone or in parallel to OEM one? Is your dash working? Also AC and all the gauges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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