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M1tch

Basemap?

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Hi all,

Just plugged in my Link Xtreme to get it unlocked, just looking for a basemap, checked the various maps etc on PC link but there isn't anything for a Toyota 1zz, would be great if I could get the car fired up on a basemap so I can check everything is up and running.

Thanks in advance!

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You could start off by loading the Monsoon Base Map, reconfigure the trigger for 1ZZ, check static timing and then wire your sensors accordingly, adjust the master fuel until it starts.

Should be a good start.

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Still having issues trying to get the car to fire, have followed the guide in PC link but so far nothing, think I will just put the ECU on the shelf until I can figure out how to get the car to run on it.

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Some notes we have here suggest there may be various trigger patterns used on the 1ZZ so it may no always use the "1ZZ" trigger mode.

You can start by doing a log of you cranking it for a few seconds and attach that and a copy of your map here, that may give us some clues as to whats wrong.

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2 hours ago, Adamw said:

Some notes we have here suggest there may be various trigger patterns used on the 1ZZ so it may no always use the "1ZZ" trigger mode.

You can start by doing a log of you cranking it for a few seconds and attach that and a copy of your map here, that may give us some clues as to whats wrong.

Will do, I did swap to the other trigger type as well - will get it logged, also noticed that the fuel setup wasn't set to a return less system when I initially tried it - would this make a difference?

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The 1zz trigger mode will fire all plastic-intake 1zz's, they all use the same crank and cam pattern.  You may find that you get a premature revcut/misfire using the 1zz mode around 4000rpm (I've never had it work on any of the 1zz's I've done), I use the 2nz mode for the crank trigger and the 1zz VVTI setting.

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Slight update on this, have been sent over a basemap to try and get the car fired up - still no luck, have tried to adjust the master fuel trim both plus and minus 10% to see if its that, it does almost fire, eg it catches for 1 rev but at the moment my Link ECU is pretty much a very heavy paperweight. Have swapped back to my PFC/stock ECU for the time being - have checked all the settings vs the help sheet and everything matches up, have tried both trigger types so I am now at a loss.

Worth noting that I have had this ECU for 6 months so far and can't get it to work :( guessing it might be something to do with currently running the stock MAF and not a MAP sensor - will try and see if I can find if that's been setup etc.

Edit - looks like its been set to run a 3 bar MAP sensor, need to try and figure out the voltages for the stock MAF :(

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55 minutes ago, JMP said:

add a map sensor to the system

I think this might be the only solution, cannot find any MAF calibration figures for voltage vs g/s anywhere - although I do have an airflow curve from the PFC. Will save up for the MAP sensor - ECU and wiring so far have cost twice the cost of the car.

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I have now ordered an AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor and intake air temp sensor, need to now work out which part of the brand new PnP harness I need to cut up to fit the temp sensor - might leave the MAF in to get the temp from it and plug in the MAP.

So far not really too happy with the Link ECU, very few options for any cars running a MAF, unable to find any technical data to be able to build a calibration table for the stock MAF so having to upgrade everything to make it work.

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Really?  

Its kind of hard to be unhappy with a Link ecu.  They are one of the easiest ecu to use.

Once the MAF is replaced with a MAP sensor it shouldn't take much to get that thing fired up.  

IF it will run on the PFC it will run on the link.  

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48 minutes ago, Brad Burnett said:

Really?  

Its kind of hard to be unhappy with a Link ecu.  They are one of the easiest ecu to use.

Once the MAF is replaced with a MAP sensor it shouldn't take much to get that thing fired up.  

IF it will run on the PFC it will run on the link.  

Hoping that this is the case, the plug and play loom already has the MAP sensor harness, just need to work out the correct pins to wire in the air temp - issue I am coming up against is that there are very limited options for preconfigured sensors that aren't off the shelf aftermarket replacements.

Was hoping that a Boomslang PnP harness would get me going, PFC is just plug in and go as its got a basemap already on it, the Link hasn't really got anything out the box that matches my engine even after using the help sheet to get the right triggers etc, without a custom table for voltage vs g/s for the stock MAF I am stuck.

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2 hours ago, Brad Burnett said:

Who cares.  Ditch the maf.

https://www.viscontituning.com/products/wrx-sti-speed-density-kit

you want the one for the GD(2002-2007)

Its a plug and play iat adaptor harness for subarus.  same Maf 

 

Thanks for the idea of that speed density adapter, I know that the 05 STI MAF is a direct swap in for our engines but would need a different MAF voltage curve (adjusted within the PFC), my PnP harness luckily already has a newer style AEM metal MAP sensor connector so that should plug in - might be able to simply wire in the IAT into the MAF wiring.

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5 hours ago, M1tch said:

might be able to simply wire in the IAT into the MAF wiring.

If you look again at the link Brad provided that is exactly what one of the kits does.  "Kit A" is the MAFless kit, so it is just basically an adapter to connect a IAT sensor to the MAF plug.  Seems a little expensive for what it is but you can make something similar yourself if you are capable.  Or just leave the MAF in place for IAT.

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11 hours ago, Adamw said:

If you look again at the link Brad provided that is exactly what one of the kits does.  "Kit A" is the MAFless kit, so it is just basically an adapter to connect a IAT sensor to the MAF plug.  Seems a little expensive for what it is but you can make something similar yourself if you are capable.  Or just leave the MAF in place for IAT.

Ah I see, that makes sense, currently trying to sort out the plug and play Boomslang harness I have, seem to have things wired into injectors 5 and 6 on plug B for a 4 cylinder engine - guessing plug and play doesn't mean its going to be easy :( 

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9 hours ago, M1tch said:

have, seem to have things wired into injectors 5 and 6 on plug B for a 4 cylinder engine -

That is probably fine/normal, any unused injector and ignition drives can be used as auxiliary outputs.  You just need to go to Auxiliary outputs -fuel, then assign the correct function.

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On 5/26/2018 at 9:00 PM, Adamw said:

That is probably fine/normal, any unused injector and ignition drives can be used as auxiliary outputs.  You just need to go to Auxiliary outputs -fuel, then assign the correct function.

Thanks for that, I have contacted Boomslang who have sent me over a pinout for the loom, looks like they are using the unused ignition drivers to run the fan relays, just working on configuring the other pins etc which I think I have sorted, the issue I am now facing is trying to work out Cal tables for things like the water temp sensor which aren't listed in the dropdown of sensors - trying to track down the voltage/resistances vs temperature tables to configure those. I am also trying to trace through the MAF wiring on the stock loom, doesn't look like its being sent to the Link so will need to convert to a MAP sensor and IAT as separate inputs. Will then look to wire up the wideband O2 sensor into the CAN pins (its an AEM X gauge so has CAN outputs from the gauge) - getting there with the install.

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On 5/31/2018 at 7:49 AM, Adamw said:

Attach a copy of your pinout and a copy of your map, we'll take a look.  Toyota temp sensors usually match the "Std Bosch NTC" calibration.

Hi there,

 

Sorry for the delay - missed the message! please find the files attached, one being my attempt to try and pin it to the Boomslang harness, the other being the pinout from the harness - unsure if I am able to use the MAF at all as I can't seem to find a pinout on the Boomslang for it - I have also included the OEM pins from the MR2 ECU for reference. Worth noting that the coolant temp is pinned to ANvolt3 it would seem - I can't seem to find an option to use a standard Bosch sensor in the drop down?

Link G4+ Xtreme 2000-2005 Toyota MR2 Spyder (1).pdf

1zz basemap - repinned to Boomslang.pclr

33430701_10160469964775343_2044166401513488384_n.jpg

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Ok, tweaked version attached.  You had most of it pretty good.  I added the cal for the temp sensors, changed a few settings like VVT frequency and VVT target table was a bit messed up.

There seems to be some 1ZZ's with 36-2 crank and some with 36-4 on the crank.  The 2NZ mode you have set in your map is for the 36-2 version.  If you get erratic RPM when cranking do a triggerscope and we will confirm what yours has.

1zzbasemap Boomslang.pclr

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On 6/29/2018 at 9:24 AM, Adamw said:

Ok, tweaked version attached.  You had most of it pretty good.  I added the cal for the temp sensors, changed a few settings like VVT frequency and VVT target table was a bit messed up.

There seems to be some 1ZZ's with 36-2 crank and some with 36-4 on the crank.  The 2NZ mode you have set in your map is for the 36-2 version.  If you get erratic RPM when cranking do a triggerscope and we will confirm what yours has.

1zzbasemap Boomslang.pclr

Thank you so much, will give it a try! I figured I was almost there - I can easily swap over the crank sensor type to see if it works better, am I correct to say that I need to get a MAP sensor plugged in before I can run the car though or did you find the setting for the MAF signal?

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You need to use a map sensor for it to work.  Your engine will have a 36-2 sensor which will work perfectly. It's a massive pain to change the trigger wheel on the crank if you wanted to change to a 36-4(timing cover off, timing chain off etc). 

It's unusual that boomslang configured the loom to use AN Volt inputs rather than the dedicated  analogue temperature inputs, hopefully they have wired in the pullup required when using the regular AN Volt inputs for temperature sensors.  Adam's file is still setup for a 3bar Link MAP sensor connected to AN Volt 2, I've updated it with the configuration for your AEM 3.5bar sensor.

Your next steps are
- wire the map sensor to the AN Volt 2 and connect it to the plenum post-throttle body.  I use the port on the plenum which used to go to the charcoal cannister VSV.

- load the provided file and perform a TPS and MAP sensor calibration. 

- do a base timing check with a timing light to ensure the ignition offset is correct (your map is set to 140, I find most 1zz's are around 145)

- Get the engine running by adjusting the "Master Fuel" number under fuel main if it doesn't fire straight up

- Ensure the AFR is in an acceptable range with your wideband (you have a wideband connected to the fury right?)

- Use the Cam Angle Test in the VVT Setup menu to confirm the Trigger 2 VVT Offset is set correctly (your map is set to 47.7, the last one I did ended up at 51)

- Configure the Trigger 1 and Trigger 2 Arming Threshold tables using data from the Trigger Scope

 

With all that done it will be ready to start tuning and you will have very few further issues.

On the 1zz's I've done, I use the "Toyota 1ZZ" Cam Control Mode combined with the "Toyota 2NZ VVTi" trigger mode.  I've never used the "Toyota 2NZ-FE" Cam Control Mode your map was configured with.

1zzbasemapBoomslang (3).pclr

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18 hours ago, JMP said:

You need to use a map sensor for it to work.  Your engine will have a 36-2 sensor which will work perfectly. It's a massive pain to change the trigger wheel on the crank if you wanted to change to a 36-4(timing cover off, timing chain off etc). 

It's unusual that boomslang configured the loom to use AN Volt inputs rather than the dedicated  analogue temperature inputs, hopefully they have wired in the pullup required when using the regular AN Volt inputs for temperature sensors.  Adam's file is still setup for a 3bar Link MAP sensor connected to AN Volt 2, I've updated it with the configuration for your AEM 3.5bar sensor.

Your next steps are
- wire the map sensor to the AN Volt 2 and connect it to the plenum post-throttle body.  I use the port on the plenum which used to go to the charcoal cannister VSV.

- load the provided file and perform a TPS and MAP sensor calibration. 

- do a base timing check with a timing light to ensure the ignition offset is correct (your map is set to 140, I find most 1zz's are around 145)

- Get the engine running by adjusting the "Master Fuel" number under fuel main if it doesn't fire straight up

- Ensure the AFR is in an acceptable range with your wideband (you have a wideband connected to the fury right?)

- Use the Cam Angle Test in the VVT Setup menu to confirm the Trigger 2 VVT Offset is set correctly (your map is set to 47.7, the last one I did ended up at 51)

- Configure the Trigger 1 and Trigger 2 Arming Threshold tables using data from the Trigger Scope

 

With all that done it will be ready to start tuning and you will have very few further issues.

On the 1zz's I've done, I use the "Toyota 1ZZ" Cam Control Mode combined with the "Toyota 2NZ VVTi" trigger mode.  I've never used the "Toyota 2NZ-FE" Cam Control Mode your map was configured with.

1zzbasemapBoomslang (3).pclr

Thanks for this, I will go through your suggestions, the harness has a 3 pin MAP sensor plug attached to it so will be getting one asap, I am currently running on a PowerFC which is quite old tech compared to the Link, will connect everything up this week and pin in my Bosch 4.9 wideband sensor (via the AEM X Gauge) to the CAN pins on the connector as well.

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