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Nissan Silvia S15 Boost control

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Hey guys,

im fairly new to the turbo game and I just bought a G4+ Plugin (Being shipped as I type) and I had a couple of questions I was hoping someone could answer for me.

Id like to use the Electronic boost controller function of the G4+, Just not entirely sure what I need to buy on top of the ECU, would a new boost solenoid be essential? In cabin adjustment would be great!

Would I also benefit from a wide-band 02 Sensor? or is there a more reliable sensor setup I could integrate with the G4+?

Cheers again for the help,

Dane

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Any boost valve will work, some better than others, the Link valve is a great high quality high volume valve if you need to buy a new one.

In cabin adjustment can be enabled either by a switch or via a rotary switch, takes a little bit of setting up but pretty easy once you get your head around it.

You will defiantly benefit from a Wideband, it will enable autotune function, closed loop lambda and lean trip for safety. Dont mess about with 3rd party widebands just grab a CAN Lambda as it integrates perfectly and the ECU gets to see the controller status directly.

 

Hope this helps :)

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12 minutes ago, ClintBHP said:

Any boost valve will work, some better than others, the Link valve is a great high quality high volume valve if you need to buy a new one.

In cabin adjustment can be enabled either by a switch or via a rotary switch, takes a little bit of setting up but pretty easy once you get your head around it.

You will defiantly benefit from a Wideband, it will enable autotune function, closed loop lambda and lean trip for safety. Dont mess about with 3rd party widebands just grab a CAN Lambda as it integrates perfectly and the ECU gets to see the controller status directly.

 

Hope this helps :)

Very helpful, cheers!

I was planning on buying just a sensor (AEM or something), the CAN Lamba is a good 500 dollars, probably more considering I live in Canada now.

Will the AEM wideband sensor work fine the with g4+?

Cheers

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I am using AEM wideband gauges in both of my Skylines (1x standard and 1x failsafe), they have been reliable over the years but....

With the 0-5v feed into the ECU giving the ECU a wideband reading, there is always a discrepancy.
My gauge might be showing 14.7 afr but the ECU is reading 14.2, so I adjust the offset to get it perfect, then when the gauge is showing 11.0 afr, the ecu might be reading 11.5.
So I adjust the offset again and the best I have managed is have it mostly correct at the rich and stoich range, but incorrect in the lean area i.e 15.5 reads 16.0 or 15.0.
To make it worse the discrepancy is slightly different from one day to the next.

I have tried everything including the earthing via the ECU sensor ground etc, this is not a Link ECU issue as I had the same issue with Apexi and ECUmaster.

For that reason alone, I would have and will in the future be opting for a CAN wideband to get rid of this inaccuracy, I want to know that when I tweak the mapping based on the info from my log, that when it says the AFR was at 11.5, it actually was at 11.5 and not in fact 11.2 or 11.8.

Hope this helps,

Edward.

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11 minutes ago, Mobilelpg said:

I am using AEM wideband gauges in both of my Skylines (1x standard and 1x failsafe), they have been reliable over the years but....

With the 0-5v feed into the ECU giving the ECU a wideband reading, there is always a discrepancy.
My gauge might be showing 14.7 afr but the ECU is reading 14.2, so I adjust the offset to get it perfect, then when the gauge is showing 11.0 afr, the ecu might be reading 11.5.
So I adjust the offset again and the best I have managed is have it mostly correct at the rich and stoich range, but incorrect in the lean area i.e 15.5 reads 16.0 or 15.0.
To make it worse the discrepancy is slightly different from one day to the next.

I have tried everything including the earthing via the ECU sensor ground etc, this is not a Link ECU issue as I had the same issue with Apexi and ECUmaster.

For that reason alone, I would have and will in the future be opting for a CAN wideband to get rid of this inaccuracy, I want to know that when I tweak the mapping based on the info from my log, that when it says the AFR was at 11.5, it actually was at 11.5 and not in fact 11.2 or 11.8.

Hope this helps,

Edward.

What this guy said is 100% accurate.

I have used tons of the AEM widebands.  While they work and get the job done, they are not optimal.  I can understand the reason to get them at their price point.  But when the life of your engine is expensive, i would rather opt for a more quality sensor setup.  

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Very helpful, Thanks guys, I think you've almost won me over.

For me however, I wont need to be tuning on the spot (Hopefully). I plan to take the car in and get it tuned and then not touch it, mainly because I dont know what im doing. 

Would I even profit from a wideband at this point? Provided the tune is good?

Cheers

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I'm reviving a super old thread!

I've decided to buy the Link CAM LAMBDA.

My question now is, I'd like to get a gauge working for it, How does one set this up / where / what gauge can I purchase? 

Would I run the gauge to the G4+ Specifically? 

Cheers!

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Probably the best way to do this is with a CAN bus gauge.  CAN bus gauges can display multiple parameters from the ECU as well as some have really good configurable alarm/warning systems etc.  Unfortunately they are a little expensive if all you want to do is display lambda but that is probably the nicest way to do it.  You could also use the realdash app on an android phone/tablet or an ODB2 app or OBD2 gauge.

Here's some of the CAN gauges I know of:

https://perfecttuning.net/en/gauge/68-universal-gauge-linkg4.html

http://www.btigauges.com/link--vipec.html

https://gaugeart.com/product/gaugeart-can-gauge/

I think we could make this work too:  https://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/gauges/digital-gauges/x-series/aemnet

OBD2 gauges like this should work also: https://shop.bankspower.com/series-2-idash-1-8-super-gauge.html

 

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13 minutes ago, Adamw said:

Probably the best way to do this is with a CAN bus gauge.  CAN bus gauges can display multiple parameters from the ECU as well as some have really good configurable alarm/warning systems etc.  Unfortunately they are a little expensive if all you want to do is display lambda but that is probably the nicest way to do it.  You could also use the realdash app on an android phone/tablet or an ODB2 app or OBD2 gauge.

Here's some of the CAN gauges I know of:

https://perfecttuning.net/en/gauge/68-universal-gauge-linkg4.html

http://www.btigauges.com/link--vipec.html

https://gaugeart.com/product/gaugeart-can-gauge/

I think we could make this work too:  https://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/gauges/digital-gauges/x-series/aemnet

OBD2 gauges like this should work also: https://shop.bankspower.com/series-2-idash-1-8-super-gauge.html

 

Cheers for the suggestions, They sure are expensive!

So I think I've decided to run a Tablet with PC Link installed to display most of my important figures (Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, AFM, Water Temp).

That way I dont have to buy a bunch of gauges, I'll just upgrade my stock Boost gauge because its ugly.

Anyone had any luck installing a tablet? How would one connect it up to the G4+?

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