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maddog_945

60-2 crank and 36-1 cas

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No it sounds like you are mixed up, typically you would have multiple teeth on the crank (with some missing if you like) and a single tooth on the cam.

You could do say 60-2 on crank and 1 on the cam.  Or 36-1 on crank + 1 on cam.  Or 12 on crank, 1 on cam.   For the crank, some good rules of thumb are the number of teeth should divide evenly into 360, and the number of cylinders should divide evenly into the number of teeth.

 

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You have two options:

  1. You can modify the cam sensor so it has just one tooth/slot - then it will work with the 60-2 crank.
  2. You can forget about the 60-2 and just use the 36-2 on the cam - this will give you all you need for full sequential but means your main engine position signal has some error due to the cam drive system backlash.

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Hi,  can you show me a setup with 60-2 on crank and 1tooth on the cam? 

 

As said.. i have a an OEM 60-2 Triggerpattern on my flywheel.  Also i have an Adapter to an Eclipse DSM CAS which connects on my old Auxshaft(like camshaft) where volvo had in its 240s the ignition rotor. In that CAS is a 36-1 Dizzywheel like so..

https://yoshifab.com/store/billet-redblock-dsm-cas-adapter.html

 

casdiskdsm.500.jpg

 

I must admit thet the Cam Sensor seems to havwe 24-0 teeth ;)  whoopsie.. but it also has only one tooth as you can see...   

 

i dont get why Link needs 60-2 and then only one wooth as CAS..  isnt it much better with a higher resolution?

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2 hours ago, maddog_945 said:

i dont get why Link needs 60-2 and then only one wooth as CAS..  isnt it much better with a higher resolution?

The 60-2 crankshaft wheel is used for the engine speed and angle information, all critical timed events are calculated from this.  The single tooth on the cam is only used for "sync" basically it tells the ECU whether the next TDC event on the crankshaft is # 1 cylinder or #4 so the position,/resolution/accuracy/location of this is not important.

In your case you would use the 60-2 on the crank as the main trigger (trigger 1), and on the CAS you would only wire the one inner sensor that reads the single inner slot to trigger 2.  The 24 slots around the outside will not be used at all.

I suspect the CAS kit you are looking at is designed for engines that dont have the 60-2 flywheel, so they use the 24 slots for trigger 1 and the single slot for trigger 2.

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Darn..  i can sell the DSM CAS then, cause there is another option if i only need one tooth..

 

20160103_205555_zps2540rmhj.jpg575_zpsadea42ab.jpg

 

577_zps7a77566c.jpg

 

 

thx for your information..   as Cam Sync Sensor and your explaination everythings makes sense! Thank you !

 

Could you recommend a Sensor to me?

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15 hours ago, maddog_945 said:

Could you recommend a Sensor to me?

The sensor shown in your photo looks like a littlefuse 55505, or Honeywell 1GT101DC and ZF GS1012 are almost identical.  Any of these are easy to get and work well for cam sync. 

The threaded ones are often easy to mount also, so have a look at something like a ZF GS1005 too.

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So..  i think im really going to buy this...

 

Can you school me in knockcontrol and bewstcontrol?

 

My engine got one knockdetector between cyl 1-2..  is the the need for weld a bung on the block for another knocksensor?

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20 minutes ago, maddog_945 said:

My engine got one knockdetector between cyl 1-2..  is the the need for weld a bung on the block for another knocksensor?

What engine?  How many cylinders?

 

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22 hours ago, maddog_945 said:

My engine got one knockdetector between cyl 1-2.. 

Since it is only a 4 cylinder I would be happy with that, in my experience you should be able to get an acceptable signal.  All cylinders have individual gain settings so you can adjust the "volume" of each cylinder to allow for distance from the sensor.

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36 minutes ago, maddog_945 said:

Ok, cool and how is the config for CoP layout and fullseq directfire? 

Please explain your question better, what do you want to know?  How to wire them or how to set up software?

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Ah ok,

 

it is more like the experience with that setup..  the wiring i can see in the wiring diagram, which is good..  i hope? :D

 

Whats coils work best with link storm and so...

 

 

also i have a question if anyone or you could suggest me a wiring pro tipp like which connectors crimping pliers..   i really like these aerospace threaded firewallthrough connectors..  Can i wire the harness like so, that i can pull the engine with just one bajonettconnector?

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15 minutes ago, maddog_945 said:

Whats coils work best with link storm and so...

I would suggest coils with built-in ignitors as it makes wiring easier and stand-alone ignitors can add significant cost.  If you want COP, then the VAG coils you suggest would be ok, other common ones that give decent spark are Toyota 1NZ/1ZZ and Honda K20.

 

18 minutes ago, maddog_945 said:

also i have a question if anyone or you could suggest me a wiring pro tipp like which connectors crimping pliers..   i really like these aerospace threaded firewallthrough connectors..  Can i wire the harness like so, that i can pull the engine with just one bajonettconnector?

Bulkhead connectors come in a huge variety of types, from cheap plastic "CPC" bodies to very expensive autosport type.  I highly suggest you avoid solder cup type and stick with crimp options.  The normal convention for safety is to have sockets on the firewall side and pins on the engine loom side.  For a 4 Cylinder Storm install you will probably need about 36Pins for a basic 4cyl engine/car without VVT or stepper motor.  Size 16 or 20 contacts would be appropriate.

Deutsch HDP20 series are quite a decent option, relatively cheap plastic bodies but they use the same high-quality solid contacts as the higher end mil-spec stuff.  You will the relevent crimp tool.  Be aware two bodies, 70 terminals, and a crimp tool might add 200-500USD to your project depending on what options you go for.

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How does a Zeitronix ZT2 interact with the storm?  do i need a second wideband for the storm or can i connect the zt2 wideband out to the in of the storm without experiencing any lag?  I know that the zeitronix narrowband emulation got some lag to it and my ECU throws errors now if i use it..

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Yes you can connect a wideband via an analog input.  There will always be some lag with Lambda sensors especially at low RPM when the exhaust gas is moving slow, no matter what brand or type you use.  I dont expect your Zeitronixs device will be any slower than most of the other common controllers.

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Hi,

 

no i dont speak about the lag of the sensor itself..  thought the wideband must be wired directly to the ECU to function correctly...  And when the signal for the wideband comes from the zeitronix box to the ECU i thought it would be laggyier that wire it in directly

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Only our Fury or Thunder ECU's have builtin wideband controllers so a sensor can be wired directly.  Any other ECU's will need an external controller either wired to an analog input or a CAN input.  Neither way I would expect any significant "electronic lag".

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