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Zerep

Need Help ST185 (3sgte) PnP

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A couple of thoughts:

  1. ID2000's are high impedance but the car had low imp std, did you remove the injector ballast resistor?
  2. Your map has a 5D ignition table turned on with 50deg retard in it and then 65 deg advance in the main ignition table?  What is that about?  As soon as the engine starts to make vacuum it will move out of those highly advanced cells and stall...  I suggest you turn the 4D and 5D tables off and put some normal numbers in your main table.
  3. There are trigger errors counting up.  I see you have set 36-2 on crank - are you sure the cam only has a single tooth?  Can you do a Triggerscope so we can check what the problem is here.
  4. Have you done an ignition(coil) test and synced the base timing?
  5. Just for future reference - your log doesnt have many channels recorded, next time hit the "Add all" button at the bottom of the logging setup screen so we get more complete data.

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1. Yes i removed the injector ballast resistor.

2. I switched the 4D and 5D tables off changed the main ignition table values to the ST185 ignition values.

3. Yes the cam has a single tooth and i attached trigger scope log below.

4.All four coils spark and i also re-checked the base timing with a timing light.

 

Trigger Scope Log 2018-04-8.llg

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can we get an updated pclr after the changes Adam suggested, and log of it starting and failing, then starting and staying on as you give it gas - with the additional logging paramters?

Its probably not the cause of this particualr problem, but your IAT is reading -23 deg C but your ECT is 14C. Id guess at least one of these sensors is running the wrong calibration. Are these both the factory toyota sensors?

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Its a bit hard to tell without a copy of your current tune file but if you think there is too much fuel the first step would be to reduce the master fuel setting.

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Lower the master fuel like you said and it turn on with fuel pump connected.Thank you Adamw,Simon and CJ for helping me out.I post if i have any other problem

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I think youve got a wiring problem with your lambda sensor or a massive exhaust leak near the sensor, or if youve got a programmable sensor like an LC1 then you've got it programmed wrong

calculating back to work out what your received voltage will be to give those readings, the 0.78 ish lambda number is 0.7 ish volt, then it jumps straight to 1.33 ish lambda which is about 4.7-4.8 volt. My money is on there being a voltage offset of about 0.2 volt because of wiring, and the lambda sensor output jumping from what should be 0.5v (min) straight to 4.5v (max). 

Your injector pulse width doesnt change between when its reporting 0.78lambda and when it reports 1.32 lambda so its not registering actual fuelling changes.

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The stock knock sensor is connected if you want to give it a try.  I dont know the ST185 well but most of the Toyota's from that era used a single wire resonant frequency sensor that is not particularly useful on a modified engine.

 

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