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Summer Ng

Custom Crank Tooth

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Hi everyone my engine is EJ-VE

3 Cylinder Turbo Changer 

At the first Setting I customise the crank Trigger tooth by 24 missing one at the cam side....

 Down Missing tooth.

than a lot bro told me that 24 Tooth is not support for VVTi system.

So I decide to upgrade More tooth (48 missing 2) at the cam side too. Rise missing tooth

the result same Cannot control Vvti and totally lost power at High RPM... Anyone pls gv a hand thank you

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You will need to use a trigger pattern(both crank and cam) that is supported by the ecu for vvti operation.  For the vvti to work, it will have to be a trigger pattern that is already decoded in the software. 

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Ya I know that style of Link recommend.... but is that 48 tooth missing two is suitable for Link ECU?

or 60 tooth’s missing 2 is more accrue? 

My cam got two sensor one for crank another for cam position.... both sensor at cam only 

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The most common and easiest to work with would be a 36-2 on the crank and 3 teeth on the cam at 90deg to each other. This would then match a Toyota configuration.

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I have been helping Summer with this via tech support & web-chat, so it probably doesnt need much more forum input at this time.  This engine also has a 4-1 wheel at the far end of the camshaft for VVT so I think we will be able to make it all work with the user defined VVT mode (still yet to test/confirm this).  The trigger settings in his map did not match the wheel he has pictured here so that was his main problem with it not running right.

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Mr Adam I Already follow yr step to do setting and rewiring, but i still facing the same problem.

now i trying to put back 24/1 trigger foe tracking the lost power problem....

Before my First start up is 24/1 missing Trigger... Engine Power is very good, BTW i miss up the Trigger Point Like Pic Below 

I only decide to exchange Trigger to 48/2 trigger. Some more i heard before that 24/1 cannot be attach VVti system i only will Do 48/2 tooth...

UPDATE..... (03.48PM Malaysia Time) 

After test run result show that...

Just Reinstalled 24/1 Trigger Teeth and the engine power & respond Back to Normal....

 

 

 

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The 24-1 will definitely be the better option as it is well proven/commonly used for a camshaft trigger.  48-2 should work in theory but it is not one I have seen before and I cant even test it without a lot of work as my simulator doesnt have that as a preset output.

 

1 hour ago, Summer Ng said:

Some more i heard before that 24/1 cannot be attach VVti system i only will Do 48/2 tooth...

VVT control is completely separate to the engine position trigger.  For some engines the same cam teeth are used for both the trigger sync and VVT but the ECU still treats engine position and camshaft position as two separate functions. 

Your 24-1 wheel is the engine position trigger, it does not need a separate sync since it is fitted to the camshaft it already gives a unique missing tooth every 720degs.  The 3 teeth on the back of the cam are for the VVT position.   Some VVT engines have only 1 tooth on the cam for cam position (BMW), some have up to about 14, but most commonly something like 3-6 teeth.  Our User defined VVT mode allows a max of 8 teeth.  I dont know where the 48-2 idea come from but it is completely wrong.

Contact me again when you have it running with the 24-1 and I will try to help you with the VVT.

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MR.ADAM I'm appreciate that u giving me a big hand here...

now i trying to modified my Trigger to Link recommend first... 

the second picture of my trigger spocket are wrong  and not recommend by Link....

I will came back to you shortly Mr Adam..... 

and that i got one more question ISC like subaru 3 wire tyre the PMW wire should be wire in DI 1 And Set For ISC SOL.Slave?

than VVti Solenoid wire to DI2 and AUX two is that Works?

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What have you done now?  That new wheel is wrong.

This one is correct:

6LcfQqu.png

31 minutes ago, Summer Ng said:

i got one more question ISC like subaru 3 wire

I believe 1 wire is ground, 1 wire is 12V, the other wire PWM should go to an aux output and the function should be set to ISC solenoid.

 

33 minutes ago, Summer Ng said:

than VVti Solenoid wire to DI2 and AUX two is that Works?

The VVT solenoid, one wire should go to +12V, the other wire should go to an Aux output.

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Yes Mr Adam but Specified Value 3-6V (AC) I hv try to use Optical Setting engine not stable.... Turn back to Hall Sensor type engine stable... How was ur suggestion Mr Adam 

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For a VR sensor to work well, the teeth on the wheel will have to be about the same width as the original teeth on the Diahatsu wheel.  I also suggest you make the missing tooth gap just like you have it below (full depth).  The "half depth" gap is only required on high tooth count wheels (60-2 etc).

Attach your map so I can check your settings.  

oqHeHIo.png

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Ok Mr Adam I will Follow your step.... pls c picture below is that match yr formula? 

Silver Trigger The black coloured will be cutting off.... 

Steel Color trigger is original 

image.jpg

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Ok, The reluctor log logs ok.  Trigger settings below would be my suggestion.

DI4gKCF.png

 

 

 

Now, for VVT, lets try this...

Set up your DI and VVT settings like below:

UJyaM2B.png

Start engine then open up runtimes screen (F12 key), with engine just idling, please check that the Inlet RH signal says OK and first 3 absolute VVT positions display numbers and are stable.  If they are then please note down these 3 cam angles and report back results.

iht8bmq.png

 

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11 hours ago, Summer Ng said:

But  why didn't show RH DATA

Sorry, I forgot you had a Monsoon, it only allows 1 inlet cam (LH) at present.  I'm not sure if LH inlet will work correctly when using the Subaru AVCS VVT mode but lets try.

Can you now set up the DI like below and under VVT settings turn off the cam angle test.   Do a short log of engine running.

9L9bnlB.png

 

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