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Introducing RealDash - A Dashboard App for Android & Windows


Adamw

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Hi I’m encountering a weird issue where the speed and the gear is out of wack. It shows 400km when I’m doing like 10..

 

followed the instructions in the first post to the T. Currently plugged in directly via usb via the pclink tuning cable to an android headunit.

Continuous 15hz

38400baud 

Long stream data

i did the gear ratios to match. And wheel size too

Any ideas?

 

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On 10/29/2018 at 6:05 AM, Booston said:

RealDash crashes as soon as USB port 3 is used ?

fix?

win10 on Linx8 tablet 

This isnt a Realdash forum, Link dont make it... 

Maybe contact them directly to see what support avenues they offer.

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On 12/2/2018 at 3:14 PM, Morrisman1 said:

Does anyone know a way of having a fuel level sensor input to the ECU displayed on the Dash? perferably calibrated value. Its easy to get the data into the ECU but I don't know if there is a way of getting RealDash to display it. 

Here you go:  https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPn3zpsxhdV-DI1p5D

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Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments.

My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display).

Welcome to exchange

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c

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On 12/28/2018 at 12:42 AM, xbores said:

Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments.

My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display).

Welcome to exchange

 

Doing something similar in my GF8 WRX with an STM32 aswell. If youre okay with it, would be very keen to have a look through the code you've used. Do you have a github? 

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29 minutes ago, Zeroyon said:

I assume this would work on an android car stereo ?  

That would be model specific.  Im no expert but I suspect most of the bigger brand name ones like Pioneer etc will be pretty locked down and wont allow 3rd party apps to be installed, they possibly will also have restrictions on what the USB port will talk to.  My thoughts would be find a couple of models you like then do a bit of google research, you will find a forum or something about them.  Probably some of the cheap generic no name ones would have a more open OS.

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Hi, I'm having trouble getting Realdash to work with my G4+ Plugin, wondering if anyone has any ideas why?

Setup is:

Link G4+ Plugin (300ZX model) with USB cable and micro USB OTG adaptor plugged into Samsung Galaxy Tab3 Lite (8gb) running Android. 

Have installed Realdash on tablet with no issues that I can see, and have followed the instructions for ECU software config settings in the PDF file at start of this thread (config set with laptop using PCLink).  I have Stored the changes (CTRL+S), and power cycled ECU.

Have set Data stream mode to Longstream Data & Baud Rate to 38400 in Realdash, but when I exit it just continually flashes up "Connecting....USB-Serial" but never connects...

Thanks in advance for any advice.

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20 hours ago, DLC said:

Hi, I'm having trouble getting Realdash to work with my G4+ Plugin, wondering if anyone has any ideas why?

Setup is:

Link G4+ Plugin (300ZX model) with USB cable and micro USB OTG adaptor plugged into Samsung Galaxy Tab3 Lite (8gb) running Android. 

Have installed Realdash on tablet with no issues that I can see, and have followed the instructions for ECU software config settings in the PDF file at start of this thread (config set with laptop using PCLink).  I have Stored the changes (CTRL+S), and power cycled ECU.

Have set Data stream mode to Longstream Data & Baud Rate to 38400 in Realdash, but when I exit it just continually flashes up "Connecting....USB-Serial" but never connects...

Thanks in advance for any advice.

When you are in the realdash connections set up area and you click on linkecu, serial port, on the next screen does the "link ecu USB" (name might be a bit different) show up in the list of available devices?  Then if you unplug the usb cable while you are in that screen does that disappear off the list?

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On 1/26/2019 at 12:13 PM, Adamw said:

When you are in the realdash connections set up area and you click on linkecu, serial port, on the next screen does the "link ecu USB" (name might be a bit different) show up in the list of available devices?  Then if you unplug the usb cable while you are in that screen does that disappear off the list?

No, can't see anything like an Available Devices list? I select "Link ECU" in Connections and then go right and select "Serial Port" as type, then the next screen is for Baud Rate, then settings with short & long datatream options, but that is all.  Nothing seems to change when usb cable is unplugged... (Or am I looking in completely the wrong menus/settings?

 

EDIT: Realdash has just updated automatically and the connections menu has changed to what you describe - still not working though.... just brings up a message about trying to connect and goes no further...

 

 

 

 

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21 hours ago, DLC said:

EDIT: Realdash has just updated automatically and the connections menu has changed to what you describe - still not working though.... just brings up a message about trying to connect and goes no further...

So the link ecu shows on the serial port page when plugged in and disappears when unplugged?  Do you have any other devices plugged into the CAN1 port on the ECU? 

Can you attach a copy of your tune file. 

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Hi all,

i haven't been on the forum for ages now.

Wanted to start trying to get back into it and adding what ever bits and pieces i can add to help or confuse (ha ha ha).

I was quite happy to see this post and find out about this app.

I have been helping a very smart electronics engineer who lives overseas with a couple of electronic sports dashes that he has made along with many many other devices he builds.

I have VER.1.00 of the dash at present for testing.

I am currently working with interfacing via CAN BUS / OBD2  between his dash and my LINK G4+ THUNDER TEST ECU.

I have this setup to my AUTOSIM 1 Engine Simulator, my laptop and a variety of colour touch screen displays , from 0.96" to 7", as well as Tablets and smart phones.

I do this to keep my mind active and as a hobby.

Just to throw more complexities  into this bundle i am also at the same time interfacing Raspberry Pi and Arduino as separate devices, to achieve the same end result.

From reading some of these posts i get the feeling some of the people posting maybe overlooking the easiest solution of all which i did many many years ago and that was to simply use a Windows based tablet , run PC LINK on the device and create as many dash layouts as you wish, data log etc and have the ability to tune if experienced.

Using a USB WIFI dongle also allowing for remote tuning or at least tracking live data from the pits if at drift events etc.

Most of you will already know this anyway.

But the flip side of the coin using your phone or tablet and simply downloading a free app, gives you a cheaper and in some circumstances a quicker overall option.

I am also running a WINDOWS 10 Latte Panda SBC with 10" coloured touch screen and PC LINK.

So as i progress with my projects i will keep you all updated.

I will also look into use and test this app now i know it exists.

I have also considered adding an Arduino ESP WROOM 32 or equivalent for extra inputs etc and BLUE TOOTH /WIFI ability, which includes WIRELESS CAN BUS comms.

I also have Arduino TEENSY's and all sorts of bits and pieces laying around.

But for now i am keeping things simple and having physical connections and once everything is proved in the field, i may be silly and dive in the deep end.

Bye for now 

Regards

Dave.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/25/2018 at 6:49 PM, Adamw said:

Right now it wont work on the Atom, Monsoon, Kurofune or Black Storm as the serial stream is not enabled in those ECU's but we hope to enable that setting in the next couple of months.

 

Is there any update on this ?  I'm purchasing a Monsoon ECU today and it'd be awesome if I could use this app. 

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On 10/16/2018 at 5:15 PM, Ngian said:

Hi I’m encountering a weird issue where the speed and the gear is out of wack. It shows 400km when I’m doing like 10..

Using VVS1?  I got the same weirdness.

Anyone managed to find DI1 or DI2?

I have digital 1+2 configured in the ECU for rear and front wheel speed but RealDash only shows DI3,4,5,6 speed options (which aren't in use).

VSS1 and VSS2 are in there but as Ngian found, they produce odd data.  Maybe we need to fudge the data in the RealDash garage?

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I've just been playing around with this, when I connect a Windows PC the display is lagging by a decent 3 seconds, tried bumping up the baud rate at both ends and in the com port settings but it didn't make any difference.

Has anyone run into this issue? Tried two different Win 10 tablets, one Acer, one Generic - When I connect using a Android device there's no significant lag.

When I use the Link software there's no lag on the Windows PC(s) too.

Is a MX5Link G4+ Plugin running a injected Ford 302w, although that shouldn't make any difference.

To contribute to the thread, we found that not all android devices are created equal, we found that two of the tablets we have, a Toshiba AT7-A and a Samsung Tab3 Lite, didn't work, the OS appeared to not recognise the USB serial port.

My phone, a Samsung Galaxy Note 2 worked just fine.

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