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Adamw

Introducing RealDash - A Dashboard App for Android & Windows

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1 hour ago, Monsterbishi said:

If you plug a usb mouse/keyboard into the OTG adapter you're using to connect the S9 to the ECU you can use the mouse/keyboard to configure the gauges, etc easily without even touching the screen :-) 

Hadnt even thought of that!  Thanks!

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On 6/25/2018 at 9:49 AM, Adamw said:

Right now it wont work on the Atom, Monsoon, Kurofune or Black Storm as the serial stream is not enabled in those ECU's but we hope to enable that setting in the next couple of months.

Hi, 

Any update on serial stream availability for current storm ecu? 

 

Thanks. 

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On 5/3/2019 at 6:38 AM, Richard Hill said:

Hi, 

Any update on serial stream availability for current storm ecu? 

 

Thanks. 

I had time to play with this today.  It looks like you can make it work as is.  In the ECU's that dont have the serial data stream settings visible In PC link, it seems that the "requested short" data stream method is enabled by default.  Realdash is compatible with that. 

In PC Link set the baud to 57600.  In Realdash set the baud the same and set it to "use short datastream".  

Let me know if it works for you.  I tested it on a couple of my test ecu's and it seemed to work.

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i had this app working with my old vipec plug in, but the app as now updated and wont connect to the tablet as says vipec ecu not supported. any way to get around this?

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2 hours ago, Moggys13 said:

i had this app working with my old vipec plug in, but the app as now updated and wont connect to the tablet as says vipec ecu not supported. any way to get around this?

There is no difference between the Vipec & Link data streams so that is not your problem.  Some other users have had difficulty with the later versions not connecting on some specific phones/tablets.  Try installing an older version from here:  https://apkpure.com/realdash/com.napko.RealDash/versions

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16 hours ago, Tofan said:

Hi Adamw, May I know this app working on Link Monsoon? Thank you. 

It should do.  Follow my instructions from a coupe of posts up  (10 May).

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On 7/7/2018 at 6:41 PM, Adamw said:

Oh, that one will be a problem unfortunately, I dont see a way to make that work.  I think we will have to update our serial stream if this becomes a common problem.  

Is there anyway this can work? Or do I have to connect lambda over AN volt in order to view it on realdash? 

 

I have lambda on CAN, tried all data source on realdash, nothing works

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On 7/22/2018 at 6:28 PM, Adamw said:

Yeah, sorry, as per my post on the previous page this was something I overlooked when testing initially.  The existing serial stream doesnt output the "Lambda 1/2" parameters.  I will have asked engineering to add this but it wont be for a while unfortunately.

Hello,

I use Fury.
Do you still need time to resolve this event?
Is there any other way to view the internal lambda in RealDash?

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Would anyone be able to give me a hand? Have been using my windows tablet as a display for a while now but have decided to use my phone instead for the convenience factor. In the RealDash app trying to set the Baud rate 625k isnt a option anywhere. ECU is password protected as well so im not too sure if there is a way to change it. What would be the go around this?

Link G4+ R53 ECU

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On 6/22/2019 at 6:40 AM, Hiroshi said:

Hello,

I use Fury.
Do you still need time to resolve this event?
Is there any other way to view the internal lambda in RealDash?

Im using g4+ pnp.  Hoping that the can AFR lamda 1/2 will work soon.  The main reason to use tablet is the AFR since the LINK can lamda has no gauge to integrate with reading like a AEM X serial.  And actually that really make me pick AEM rather then Link Can Lamda even I did purchased one fm Link.  

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On 5/10/2019 at 3:40 PM, Adamw said:

I had time to play with this today.  It looks like you can make it work as is.  In the ECU's that dont have the serial data stream settings visible In PC link, it seems that the "requested short" data stream method is enabled by default.  Realdash is compatible with that. 

In PC Link set the baud to 57600.  In Realdash set the baud the same and set it to "use short datastream".  

Let me know if it works for you.  I tested it on a couple of my test ecu's and it seemed to work.

Tried this on my Link Monsoon today, sadly did not work.  It just keeps coming up "Connecting ... Link ElectroSystems USB..." 
Is their another setting that you can suggest to try?

 

Aside from that, any news on the Monsoon being officially supported yet?  Original post says that it'd hopefully happen within a few months, but still nothing as far as I know.  Looking forward to your response.

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On 2/25/2019 at 7:38 PM, ayjayef said:

(reposting my previous question with more clarity)

In RealDash under ECU specific there is: 

Link ECU: DI 1 Status (from DI1 to DI 12)

...but further down the list the speed inputs are:

Link ECU: DI 3 speed

Link ECU: DI 4 speed

Link ECU: DI 5 speed

Link ECU: DI 6 speed

...with no DI1 or DI2 speed listed.

Anyone else see D1 and DI2 speed inputs?

 

I am annoyed by this problem too. Except for my Xtreme ECU, it is missing DI speeds 1 through 4. Any plans on adding this? I'm not sure if it's a Realdash issue or serial stream issue. 

Also the ECU specific gear detection does not seem to be displaying correctly, despite it displaying perfect if connected in PCLink

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you should contact the realdash developer to get it addressed, you can find the datastream layout in the link help file under "Technical Terms and Reference > Communications" where it states DI1 through DI6 speed streams are transmitted in KPH.  Gear position is also sent in the stream so it's up to the developer to get it sorted, not Link Support

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So, if I'm reading the chart correctly, only DI 1-6 are available? But they are available in two separate speed units.

Seems like there is no way to see if a DI is on/off (switch input). That's disappointing because there are a few DI states that I would like to display on my dash (T/C switch, water/meth level switch, log switch, clutch switch).

Also some other ones that would be useful are EGO correction, Lambda target, Boost target, fuel consumption (something that could be used for MPG on dash).

 

image.thumb.png.e29a5a824f68105af7030c5b4ff2d827.png

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I'm having issues connecting to a cheap lenovo Tablet TB-7104F,  when I'm plugged into the Link the tablet doesn't register anything is plugged into it.  Where you would normally choose whether you want to charge the device or transfer files, nothing happens.  In the Real Dash app, I go to add the connection, choose link ecu, choose serial port, then nothing more happens.  I have made the adjustments to the ECU using PC link for the data streaming that are required. 

Anyone able to point me in the right direction?

Thanks

Phil

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Hi guys can’t connect to the tablet. Everything is setup as instructed but when I select serial port it just stays searching for the ecu. Car is a 2003 evo with a G4+

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There's two things that usually cause issues, once you've enabled the datastream in the ECU you absolutely need to power cycle the ECU, ie disconnect/reconnect your battery then retry.

If that doesn't work, it's probably a issue with the tablet itself not supporting serial comms - assuming you have a windows laptop, go into the windows store and download realdash onto it and test the connection using that - then you can switch to the tablet and that will tell you if the tablet is compatible or not.

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Im trying to connect up my android tablet to my link ecu using realdash. I have the USB cable running from my link which my tuner uses and and tablet with the real dash app. I have an adapter to micro USB to connect the two but could someone explain in basic terms what I need to do next? I’m guessing it can run without wifi? Thanks

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1 hour ago, Nzevo said:

Im trying to connect up my android tablet to my link ecu using realdash. I have the USB cable running from my link which my tuner uses and and tablet with the real dash app. I have an adapter to micro USB to connect the two but could someone explain in basic terms what I need to do next? I’m guessing it can run without wifi? Thanks

There are instructions attached to the first post.

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