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Adamc

link g4+ extreme with aem cd-5 can dash ,idle,aem temp sensor

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Hello,

I've been working on getting my recent purchase of an aem cd-5 to work with my link g4+ extreme. Currently, I am using the aem supplied plug and play harness for the g4+ which is plugged into my ecu and dash respectively. The dash turns on with the ignition and the screen dims when the headlights are activated so all is great there. My trouble comes when trying to configure the aem dash to display the data Im hopping to see, and in the units id like to see it in. Using the plug and play setup, I am getting information displayed on the dash, but it appears to be only in metric units. I live in Washington state USA and would love to have it in Fahrenheit psi etc. 

Secondly, I currently have boost control setup with an aem 12 position  trim pot and ethanol content.  Is it possible to send what psi is being targeted to the dash?

Thirdly,  the oil temp sensor is an aem temp sensor (data sheet attached) the way my tuner has it setup now, it is far from accurate. I do not understand how to enter the data into the software to get it to read correctly. 

lastly, My idle has been oscillating quite a bit and frequently stalls and dies when the ac is activated. Is there anything glaringly obvious wrong with the current settings?

ehicle is 240sx with ka24de-t, id1700 injectors (with pulse dampener on fuel rail), factory ka idle air control valve.

thank you all in advance!!! 

 

240sx linkg4 pcl file.pclr

240sx digital dash linkg4ecu.aemcd7

30-2012 Water Temp Sensor Kit.pdf

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the builtin resistor on the AN temp inputs is 1k, so you can either re-calculate the voltages on the AEM spreadsheet using this, or you can input the Ohms ratings directly into the calibration. I'm not sure what the calibration for the ford sensor is (what you currently have configured) but the only 1 I could find on google wasnt close at all. The below screenshots show how to calibrate this manually.

image.png.00e1cb140f9eab3d2d1706a0db751e28.png

image.png.399324741349882a7ba211df51d9e3cd.png

image.png.4278d2cc41cb0a9976a8c9dee4dab9c8.png

 

As far as KPH>MPH of degC to degF, you can configure a mulitplier to do this in the scalars tab of the CD5 app, the "MPH" after the number is just text you can change too. It has some predefined values you can copy - eg KPH to MPH. copy this number into the scalar that is configured for wheelSpeedX in the outputs tab. (multiplied by 10 or 0.1 or whatever the scalar value already is to make it sensible.)

Boost target is certainly a parameter the Link ECU can send over CAN but I dont think its its the default CAN template so you'll have to define it yourself on a second channel as a user stream. You'll have to configure the CD5 to receive it too by adding a new can receive message with the same ID and byte position you tell the link to use for the second stream. You'll also need to set up a scalar and output in the CD5 config, and modify the display to include this value.

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Here's a quick video showing how to change the units in the AEM dash:  https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPnEumPShw5Kmx3jaM

I run out of time tonight to explain how to send the boost target so Ill try to remember to explain that later.  Bump this thread if I forget after a couple of days (Friday night here now).

For your idle problem I dont see much wrong but you do have unusually large DC numbers everywhere which suggests the valve is not responding as we normally expect.  For instance your map has an AC step of 20%, whereas 5% is enough for most nissans.  Are you sure the valve is even working?  Does idle drop if you un-plug it?  We dont get KA's down here so Im assuming the valve is similar to an SR or RB.

 

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So I just had some time in the shop and setup the cal table as shown and I’m quite pleased to announce, the oil temp sensor is now working perfectly.

Also following that video I was able to get the dash to read all the units I’m used to! 

Another great success!! 

Lastly, I cannot go off anything but memory for the iacv for the short term future. While it was on the dyno a week ago, it spun a rod bearring. The motor should be back in the car within the next week or two after the new crankshaft and rod are fitted.

that being said, I did try unplugging the iacv before that dyno session and I distinctly remember that it made no impact on engine performance whatsoever. Idle did not dip, or alter in any noticeable fashion despite the iacv being plugged in or not. 

I was unsure if this was due to a bad iacv, or a bad calibration for the iacv. 

 

Thank you all once again for your prompt and accurate help! 

For reference, the iacv I am using appears to be quite similar to an sr20 iacv.

the ka valve is the one with the idle step up (ac kick up) valve pointed straight up, and the sr20 valve the ac stepup is inline with the iacv.

 

1AC09B21-C3DE-431C-9EF0-4D8CF06E1F23.jpeg

E35561E2-30A4-4EE7-B2C2-06ED0787E9F4.jpeg

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