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crazynick505

Mitsubishi RVR - Idle hunts & No aircon?

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Hey guys,

I got the evo 3 CAS installed and started up the car to adjust base timing. Looking all good (Y)

Not sure what I have done, but now when trying to start the car, it hunts around all over the place and eventually stalls.
I also found last night (While it was all working) The aircon doesn't kick on? i'm wondering if the Evo pinout is slightly different to the RVR in this regard. i'll be doing some more research on that end of things to try and find out why that isn't happening.

Unsure if I've captured everything I need, but log file attached.

idle drops.llg

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The oscillation starts when the fan turns on.  Reduce the fan step to about half its present setting and Id also say the idle is probably a bit on the lean side.  Use the "Test (on)" function on the AC output to diagnose what is going on with that.

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23 hours ago, Adamw said:

The oscillation starts when the fan turns on.  Reduce the fan step to about half its present setting and Id also say the idle is probably a bit on the lean side.  Use the "Test (on)" function on the AC output to diagnose what is going on with that.

Thanks Adam.

I adjusted the Fan step down which looks to have helped out but still seems to be a little sketchy.
I also found I had to switch the Aux 2 - AC Clutch polarity to High to get that going 

Now just figuring out the idle adjustments for this which are confusing me a bit. I have attached a log that shows my warm start where the idle dips for a couple of seconds and then the result of me turning the aircon on. I can't seem to stop it from dropping revs withe the AC step adjustments? Not exactly sure what needs to be done there. I also attached both logs for the Crank on & AC as well as the new Engine fan idle

stalling on AC.llg

dropping on engine fan.llg

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It just needs to be tuned properly.  Before messing with idle control much your fuel and ignition tables must be well tuned.  Leave idle ignition control off initially.

First change to open loop mode.  Follow the openloop setup procedure below.  Once you have that working reasonable, then change to closed loop and go through that setup procedure.

X7xgeQo.png

 

1aV4Cpc.png

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Thanks Adam.

I got into the open loop idle control after doing some more logs and adjusting my fuel table towards the targets :) That now seems to be working fairly well at keeping at my 850rpm target. The engine fan still drops it a tad but recovers a second or 2 after which seems better.

The aircon has me stumped though. I have Digital Input 1 & 5 which are both A/C requests. By changing DI1 to "on Level" high, I was able to get the AC request to become active when using my climate control, which lowered the revs (Ignoring the A/C step table) and started pumping cold air. If I ALSO change DI5 to the same "on Level: High" the Clutch physically seems to disengage, the aircon looses it's cool, but the ECUs Clutch and A/C status all comes on which increases my revs using the A/C step table. And then If i actually turn my climate control completely off, the ECU statuses all stay on? I have no idea what is going on there haha. I tried multiple different combinations of leaving only 1 of the 2 digital inputs on and playing around with the Pullup resistor settings also. It seems to either give me:
- Low revs (No step adjustment) + cool A/C that I can turn on/off 
- Step adjusted Revs but no cool air that I can turn on/off
- Cool air, A/C stepped revs that I can't turn off, even if i turn the car off and leave the ignition on. :wacko:

Any ideas here? This bit has me stumped

I just have the clutch control turned off for now

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Open the runtimes screen and watch the digital inputs when you switch the AC switch on and off.  See if it is DI1 or DI5 that is connected to your switch.  Turn off whichever one doesnt respond to the switch status

svEtiuH.png.

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Alrighty, so with the climate control off:
- DI5 Ac Request: ACTIVE
- DI1 Ac Request: OFF

If I turn the fans on, everything stays where it is
If i turn the AC on, DI1 becomes active, DI5 stays always on
This is with everything set to On level: Low and Pullup: Off

If I turn DI5 Off and leave the DI1 AC request to control the AC, When I turn the AC on, the clutch value stays OFF and does not use the AC Idle step table (Resulting in lower revs but working AC)

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Oh my bad, I turned that off while I was troubleshooting :P

Here is the Map and log with Clutch control back on.
When I turn the AC on, the switch activates and it says it's engaging the clutch, but I don't get cold air. all the switches also stay on when I turn the AC back off.

I'm wondering if that's what the second AC request input is for?

RVRmap.pclr

Log 2018-08-7 2;09;21 pm.llg

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Ahh of course, didn't even think of looking at that :lol:
I had a quick play with that set to low and managed to get the AC on, with the clutch and the Idle up also working but couldn't get it to turn off.
I'll be more specific when my Laptop doesn't run out of charge and I'm back home but I'm pretty sure I tried most of the combinations available with On Levels and Pullup Resistor while also turning Digital Input 1 Off with 5 On and vice versa.

It seems like DI5 is the input that actually turns the Clutch on with the AC button on the Climate Control unit.

The installation manual does list DI5 as being the A/C switch and DI1 as the A/C "Request". Could that be something to do with this? Both Inputs were set to A/C Request out of the box and I didn't see an option to change it to a "Switch" (Assumed this might just be the same thing anyway)

Capture.PNG

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I dont know for sure how DI1 & 5 work, we have a bit of conflicting info here in our drawings and it is not a problem that I have come across before.  I cant find a good evo 3 wiring diagram to see how this circuit works.  It appears DI1 is the proper AC request from the switch.  It appears that DI5 is only used in some models and is some type of safety pressure switch.  I suspect the reason yours is not turning off is there is a ground offset or a bad connection somewhere which prevents the voltage on DI1 going low enough to allow the DI to turn off.  It needs to go below about 1.2V.  

You could try a voltmeter between pin 71 (gnd) and pin 45 (DI1) and record the voltage present there when it wont turn off.  A car in good condition I would expect to see 12V there when on and 0V when off.

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The climate control unit does have a "ECO" mode from factory, I wonder if that might even be related also? I believe the eco mode cycles the clutch less frequently than the regular mode.

The grounding could be a thing, so I'll give that a go tomorrow as well and report back ^_^

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