cj Posted February 3, 2020 Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 Apparently those pipes are a common failure point. you can replace the whole pipe if you are dropping the fuel tank anyway. Its just 2x separate straight copper pipes with a few tabs along the way to bolt up. If its just the end thats cracked then you could braise it or re-cut it like you plan. You could probably get a replacement pipe for $100 or so but its the couple hours labour to swap it thats put people off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted February 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 Yea, I replaced the copper pipes that go over the gas tank from engine to heater core with rubber hoses as they had leaks when I had the gas tank out to replace the fuel pump with a larger one. I didn't catch this one until just last weekend. This one is up in the front trunk where the heater core has two copper lines that stick into the front trunk right above the battery. 1" after the hose connected there is a crack in the copper. I am hoping to either cut it back or solder onto it. The heater core is around 150 used but a pain to replace as it's behind the dash. I have some of the interior still apart as I am going to be re-wiring the gauge cluster to hook up to my 93+ gauge cluster in lieu of the 92 one that had a mechanical speedometer which was broken. The new one is identical looking but electronic speedometer, and naturally they changed the connectors and where half the wires go just for fun. I made my own diagram by following the board on the back so I am fairly confident I can get that working. Then I need to solder in a resister to get the tach right which there are posts of how to do online. The wiring was the biggest thing for me to tackle as it was all new to me, all of your support was amazing. Hopefully I won't have much more dumb questions as I think this is as much tuning as I will do. Once it goes through all the gears and I am confident it is mechanically sound I will schedule the tuner which has a 4-6 week backlog usually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted February 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2020 Just an update. My dad in an attempt to help took off the rubber hose using channel locks which crushed the copper pipe. So that solidified not being able to repair the heater core. Upon closer inspection it is completely plugged with stop leak anyway. I ordered a new heater core and i'll pull the dash to install that in the next 2 weeks. I didn't get a chance to run your new throttle settings as it would spray coolant in the front trunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj Posted February 10, 2020 Report Share Posted February 10, 2020 yeah they make those out of the softest metal known to man for some reason. I've squared off a few of them and had to gently squish them back into a round-ish shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDNMR2V6 Posted February 10, 2020 Report Share Posted February 10, 2020 I'm also guilty of squishing those as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted February 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2020 New heater core is on the way. If I get up there this weekend I will swap it in. and hopefully be able to test the throttle response and run it through the gears on the lift. I was able to get the seat belts and seats fully in finally. I had to weld up some brackets so the buckle was not tucked down below the seat cushion. Does the OBD port really need sensor ground for the two ground wires. Some online states chasis ground. Where is the best place to grab power, do I need to put it straight to battery or is there a good place to tie in that is powered all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted March 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2020 Well that heater core was an absolute nightmare. It got me thinking. I have been wanting to look into a tablet head unit to replace the radio but really wanted it to double as a digital dash. Does link support this? Anyone have any experience mounting one to look clean in a SW20 MR2? I found some online, One was running MS3 and looked awesome but no radio that I saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted March 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2020 For more clarification here is a video showing exactly what I would like to do. He isn't running Link but otherwise, same model MR2 and same goal. I want to display gauges and still have radio functionality if possible. The radio side he made a pretty good write up on I think I can follow. The ECU side I need to be sure it will work with the Link and then find a tablet that best fits the space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 Have a look at the realdash post at the top of the G4+ forum, it would probably do most of what you want. You could use a windows tablet or an android head unit which would take care of the tuner side pretty easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted March 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2020 Yea I think that meets what I need. There is still a lot I am unsure on. It appears some people have been able to convert the antennae to a USB input. A 4 way USB hub then brings it to the tablet? I am sure I am missing some details here. The realdash website really didn't help me much, and they do not have many posts on their forums. What I was hoping for is a list of things required. Does this need to go USB C -> the port on the ECU? Or is it OBDII to USB C. Or something else converting it. When I connect the Tablet to it does a simple USB splitter work so I can bring the radio signal in? Or does a tablet with a separate power port needed? I believe most Tablets run on 5V so I assume I am pulling off of 12V dropping it to 5V. I saw there were some 3rd party apps to help with tablet power. meaning it will power off when not charging and auto power on, leaving a few second window disabled so going from ACC to start doesn't cut it off. Any other nuances to be aware of. I will still have my dash so I don't care so much about RPM/SPeed, but I very much care about AFR, Boost, Oil Pressure, Fuel pressure, and some other inputs likely. The post you made has a lot of good info but it's difficult to dig through and get a clear image. I am sure my basic wiring skills aren't helping, I spent quite a while digging on the internet and didn't find any one place with good info but a lot of partial things. I started pasting them together. I'll be up at the car tomorrow taking a look at it and measuring for tablet sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 14, 2020 Report Share Posted March 14, 2020 So you dont want to use an android head unit that already has a tuner built in? The problem with many tablets is they only have a single USB port so they cant charge and have something connected to it at the same time. Even with a hub you usually cant do both, Im not sure if this has changed with USB-C tablets. As for radio on a tablet you will need a USB FM tuner/receiver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted March 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2020 I didn't realize a tuner built in was an option. I have a 7 x 3.75 window in the stock bezel for a display. I can slightly shave this to a larger amount but would like to keep it stock size ish. I planned to exposy or solid mount it to the bezel just like in that video I posted. I would like the radio to work, the speakers to work, the gauges to work. And if possible tuning. So you say there are options designed for this? Where should I search and can I narrow it down by size and inputs? I'll do some research tomorrow night or Monday but if you have something in mind that could jump start me that would be great. As another update I drove the car for the first time. The transmission worked, I did not remember the latest tune which the throttle response was improved with your help so I will add that next time. There were no issues on the drive, I did not have a long enough cord to have my laptop with me so I kept the rpm low and out of boost. Very exciting to drive it after 2.5 years of work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted March 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 Hope you all are safe. Any thoughts on my last post? As another update I swapped in my Tein Coilovers but didn't have time to drive it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 I was able to drive the car and took a log. It's too big to attach so here is a GDrive link. The second link is the Map the first is the log. Let me know anything you see. The fuel map is not very smooth, the car felt fine. I was surprised boost didn't build more as I could hear the turbo pretty good. The sun was way too bright to read anything on the surface tablet I was trying to use to tune in the car so I took the log in hopes to fine tune it later. I believe a air pocket in the coolant was causing the temps to rise so we cut the drive short and bled the system again but didn't take it back out. The fans weren't turning on so I disconnected the temp switch on the radiator and they came on so I think that sensor is bad and have ordered a new one. Any direction you can give on the log and on my earlier post on the tablet would be great. I am scheduling the tuner once I confirm the coolant system is working properly. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Fhn3bkbKADmy-0ATJtMBXeEILS_W5if8 https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jo72X3IbS4BgZZDKhbM35I-j-hPB3qm7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 In general it looks like everything is working ok. It doesnt look like the alternator is working. Your ignition table is very retarded in the off boost areas and there is not much VVT action so it is going to feel fairly lethargic like that. As for the boost I would almost be suspicious there is a big boost leak as MAP never goes above 100Kpa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 I'll check the alt, I thought it was working before and I haven't put a charger on the battery in the last handful of times idling. The boost leak makes sense, but it is able to go pretty deep vacuum. I'll look around next time I am up to try and see what I can find. Once I confirm the Alt/Boost Leaks. and Get the lower boost canister spring in I think that is enough front work to have the tuner take it and actually do some good tuning. Anything on the earlier post questions about the tablet you said came tuner ready? I haven't found anything like that available. I have been looking for tablets around 3.75 x 7 that have two charge ports to work with. I think there are only a few options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDNMR2V6 Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 There are a couple different alternators out there for this engine that are wired a little differently. This video might help: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 Thanks. I'll have to check for a part number. The motor came form a 2016 Toyota Avalon which accordingly to Toyota parts online Toyota Part No.: 27060-0P141. The way it is wired is based off the diagram I paid for which has proven to be wrong about 10 different times now. But is as follows and is listed as a 4 wire in my notes from him. Keep in mind these labels are from the guy who did my diagram. Pin 1 - White - Alternator Sense Input - to EA 3 - Pin 17 Pin 2 - Red - Power Main - to EFI main (this is to the two post connector in the stock MR2 fuse box in the engine bay just as it was before. Pin 3 - Empty - Alternator load monitor. Pin 4 - Alternator warning light - Yellow/Orange - To EA 3 - Pin 4 From the video I take away that the 4 wire is not ideal for the swap and I should look to put a 3 wire in. So perhaps my alternator is working but it just won't charge more than the 12.5 we are seeing in the log ? Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted April 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2020 Confirmed it is the alternator charging low because of not having the 4th wire input. I have ordered a 3 wire alternator to swap out. I saw a drop of coolant so I think that is the overheating. I didn't have any time to work on it and didn't see any egregious spot for a boost leak but i'll keep looking. Adam, Any more information on the android tuner installed tablet you mentioned? I'd like to consider that option, It needs to fit in my window area 7" x 3.75" and needs to have two input spots so I can try to make everything work. Do I need to run the OBD II port near it to hook into, or would it run off the serial port to the ECU? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted May 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2020 I ordered one of the 3 wire alternators, what showed up had the name plate filed off so I couldn't verify which it was. I took a chance and put it on anyways and it still seems to be charging too low. Maybe the wire is too small from the Alt to the fuse box? Here is the log where I was able to give it a little throttle and test it. I swapped in a 5 psi spring waste gate. The log and Map are below. Still waiting on any additional info on the Tablet hookup. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1aF20yqVct_TDBwg3sndhe51aJFdmx51e https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Jnx2LrePBZumpl9jbOl0uhfr3O3pKC__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 5, 2020 Report Share Posted May 5, 2020 On 4/21/2020 at 3:36 AM, mjb214 said: Any more information on the android tuner installed tablet you mentioned? I'd like to consider that option, It needs to fit in my window area 7" x 3.75" and needs to have two input spots so I can try to make everything work. Do I need to run the OBD II port near it to hook into, or would it run off the serial port to the ECU? I said "Android head unit", not tablet. But a tablet is basically the same - just a head unit is designed to be powered by a car and turns on/off with ignition and has the FM tuner built in, a tablet has none of that. You connect the ECU to the Android USB port with the tuning cable. Read the Realdash thread at the top of the forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted July 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2021 It's been a while. So here is the updates. The car made it to the Dyno. I am struggling getting water flow from the intercooler pump, still sorting that out but was able to tune it in around 4-5 psi @ 340 WHP with no other issues. I sold my house and moved and decided to make a custom intake manifold that uses the A@W intercooler and bolts directly to the lower intake manifold and the TB bolts to the intercooler. All came out great but took months to make. I finally got it all back together and took the car out today and was having some abrupt throttle cuts under full throttle. Felt like spark cutting out, I had the log running but most of the log is driving around the neighboorhood making sure everything was ok. In the log 11:00 timestamp. I was looking through here but wasn't sure how to tell if the spark cuts or injectors or TB causes it. Anythoughts? I can take some more logs and make them shorter so it's not so long if that helps. Thanks! Top link is the Map bottom link is the log. https://drive.google.com/file/d/14sWWImVF0n_Lmx62hUsGj6HX0EaKoO3l/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DBaCiZmLzDq9QrlpeNIug-7JXUcf1g0-/view?usp=sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted July 26, 2021 Report Share Posted July 26, 2021 You are hitting the MAP limit (boost cut). The MAP limit has a default control range of 10Kpa, so if you come within 10kpa of the set limit, the start cut will activate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted July 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2021 Ah, thanks. That is awesome you can show fuel/ignition cut I'll go replicate that myself to learn. I'll have to see when the bypass valve is opening, maybe I have too much preload on it so it isn't letting the exhaust around. Off topic. I have two battery drains I am chasing and one is ~.35 amps and stops when I pull the ECU plug out (connector A). The other is car related. Is that too much for the ECU to be pulling when the key is not in the ignition? I also installed a android head unit and downloaded realdash. I put in a blue tooth OBD II dongle and got it to sync but haven't gotten any gauges to work yet. I'll go back through your earlier posts to try and sort that out. Just an update. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dx4picco Posted July 26, 2021 Report Share Posted July 26, 2021 I would say a +12v live fed to an aux output keeping the ecu alive? Is the led on the ecu still blue when you turn your key off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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