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tom-fd3

Link extreme and Dash 2 connection issue

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Hello chaps

I’m having some issues connecting my extreme ecu with my race technology dash 2 display.

I have the link canser lead so I can connect the ecu into my laptop and open the PC link software, change the CAN settings and  apply the settings to transmit to my Dash 2. 

I also have a Race technology CAN interface lead which is Pre programmed for the Link G4+ ecu’s.

So when I connect the Canser lead in and connect to the RT CAN interface lead it won’t connect to my ecu or dash 2. So I’m assuming that the serial connector on the canser  and the serial connector pins don’t mate up?  Or that I’m missing somthing else

Any help wuld be great so eat so I can read my ecu settings on my dash 2!!

Thanks

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HI Tom 

The CANSER lead was intended for serial coms. It would pay to check that you have CAN L and H wires connected right through from the dash to the correct pins at the ECU.

As the CANSER has the serial wires connected you will loos you PC coms while the dash is connected. 

If using CAN it is best to use the CANF connector and wire the CAN wires direct from the dash can lead.

 

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7 hours ago, Simon said:

HI Tom 

The CANSER lead was intended for serial coms. It would pay to check that you have CAN L and H wires connected right through from the dash to the correct pins at the ECU.

As the CANSER has the serial wires connected you will loos you PC coms while the dash is connected. 

If using CAN it is best to use the CANF connector and wire the CAN wires direct from the dash can lead.

 

Hi Simon 

As I have the Dash 2 and not the Dash 2 pro, I don’t have a pin out directly t the dash for CAN.

From my understanding the RT CAN interface lead help with this and converts the serial to CAN, 

https://www.race-technology.com/us/racing/products/ecu-interfaces/aftermarket-interfaces

Do you know the pin out of the CANSER lead?

in my mind I’m thinking to cut the serial connector off the end of the lead then connect it to the RT lead? The F connector may be handy buying as well I guess

Or go for the 

Tom

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21 hours ago, tom-fd3 said:

Canser lead in and connect to the RT CAN interface lead it won’t connect to my ecu or dash 2.

Correct, that won’t work as the CAN wires won’t be connected in the CANserial cable.  You will need to make your own using the CANF similar to the dash2pro instructions here:  

 

Buy a Female DB9 connector for the race tech end and pinout is here: https://www.race-technology.com/wiki/index.php/CANInterface/PinConnections

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Hey adam

Thanks for that buddy

 

Ive taken some pictures, as I’m wondering if I can cut the serial connector off the CANSER lead and then joint to the two wire High and Low serial connector, which then connects to the ecu labelled serial connector.

Ive taken some pictures so you can see the RT lead.

The only thing I need to know next is the pin out of the CANSER cable, so I know which wires to connect the red and white CAN wires to.

i under stand the theory of it, just gotta work out if I cut the £50 CANSER lead or not hahaha

 Cheers

Tom

45D9B342-9397-49A8-B8A1-676241197EB8.jpeg

8AA11FB9-6F36-4771-B39C-00F4A4B0AED4.jpeg

E2E8885C-1855-42C6-9E9C-DDB138A205F0.jpeg

E0F141E1-660C-43B0-AB0E-27CD16F4DA90.jpeg

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So if I follow this diagram will this work for the CANSER cable as I believe this is the CANDASH diagram.

 

if I cut the serial cable off and just connect up the CAN H and L from pin 3 and 4 to the CAN port interface serial connect plug I’m thinking this should work then?! 

F53C129B-E12A-41E3-AFE9-AB8FB43B20A8.png

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On 8/10/2018 at 10:51 PM, Adamw said:

I don’t think the CANSERIAL cable has the CAN pins connected so don’t cut that up.  As mentioned earlier you need to make your own using a CANF and DB9

 

So got the CANF connector delivered, connected that onto the 2 pair twisted wires for the CAN H and L and still not showing the readings on my race tech display. Didn’t need a db9 connector as the RT CAN interface lead has them on it. So think it may be an issue the RT side of things.

Seems I’m missing somthing, can’t get the ecu and display talking! 

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On 8/17/2018 at 3:35 AM, Adamw said:

Attach your ECU tune file and dash config, I will take a quick look if the basic setup looks ok.  Has the RT ECU CAN interface box been programmed by them?

yes mate its one of their pre-programmed ones for the G4+ ECU'S.

 

I have sent my Dash 2 config file off to RT to look at so will be good to know if that is correct or if there is any issues with how I have set it up.

 

I will update the post as soon as i hear back from them!

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On 8/18/2018 at 9:16 PM, Adamw said:

Attach your tune file so I can check at least the link end.

Here you go mate copy of the map/tune on the car.. see what you can find!

All i have done to it was update the CAN settings as per the link guidance

Cheers 

Toms map 2.8.18.pclr

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Ok, set up looks ok.  But one of the first things I noticed you are on very old firmware, 5.0, this was basically the first release of G4+.  You should update to the latest, there have been many improvements and fixes since.

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22 hours ago, Adamw said:

Ok, set up looks ok.  But one of the first things I noticed you are on very old firmware, 5.0, this was basically the first release of G4+.  You should update to the latest, there have been many improvements and fixes since.

Ah cool mate thanks for looking, I’ll update the firmware this evening and see it if helps at all! 

 

Whats the latest version for the ecu’s currently?

 

EDIT: Updated the firmware now. 

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Now working! All up and running!

Just need to connect up my wheel speed wire into the car loom from the RT dash 2

i have a FFE Hall sensor on my e-shaft for ignition cranking, I’ll just tap into the stock transmission speed sensor for wheel speed 

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You might be better to connect the speed sensor to the ecu rather than the dash.  From memory the Dash 2 only works with Hall effect speed sensors and I suspect the FD is reluctor.  The ECU will accept either type and send speed to the dash over CAN

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Perfect thanks Adam!

i saw RT we’ll signal converters for around £80 so if the ecu is smart enough to read either then running a wire to the ecu will save me a few quid!

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21 hours ago, Adamw said:

You might be better to connect the speed sensor to the ecu rather than the dash.  From memory the Dash 2 only works with Hall effect speed sensors and I suspect the FD is reluctor.  The ECU will accept either type and send speed to the dash over CAN

 

Will I need to wire in to for example:

Aux 1: gearbox > ecu (can I use AUX for the speed sensor input wire? )

CAN: Dash 2 via CAN RT Lead

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No, connect the speed sensor to any digital input 1-8.  Assign the DI as LR wheel speed and adjust the calibration number until speed reads correct in PC Link. In the speed sources menu, set both driven and non-driven wheel to LR.  You will not need to connect anything else to the dash, the wheel speed will just be sent over the existing CAN bus with all the other ECU data.

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On 8/25/2018 at 6:43 AM, Adamw said:

No, connect the speed sensor to any digital input 1-8.  Assign the DI as LR wheel speed and adjust the calibration number until speed reads correct in PC Link. In the speed sources menu, set both driven and non-driven wheel to LR.  You will not need to connect anything else to the dash, the wheel speed will just be sent over the existing CAN bus with all the other ECU data.

Thanks mate

have pinned it into DI5 as it says under the help section I can only use 1-6 for speed sensors. 

How do I actually set the DI up? Any help with some screen grabs would be handy thanks!

 

EDIT: Think I’ve done it, just used the help and changed it from DI1 which itbwas set at and put it to DI5 which I wired in. Kept the settings at 220, which it was set at, if it needs adjusting I’ll just change it.

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