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3.0rs

EZ30D JDM swap into Subaru 2.5rs

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Hello all,

This is my first time using any sort of standalone ECU so I will likely have a few more questions but right now the thing that is stumping me is the trigger 1 and trigger 2 for the crank and cam position sensors.  It talks about the number of teeth on the crank and cam which I have no idea how to determine nevermind the flat spots or missing teeth.  If someone could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.  All of the information included in PC Link seems to be related to the EZ30R with the AVCS not the EZ30D which I am unsure whether or not putting in these parameters may cause issues for my engine.

 

Thank you in advance,

 

Owen

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The trigger signals themselves are the same between the EZ30D and EZ30R so you should be able to use the EZ30 trigger mode for trigger1 & 2, and then set the VVT type to Off. 

Only thing that might be an issue is the older 30D's only had a single cam sensor, whereas the newer ones have one per bank. The bank's both use the same 3 tooth cam wheel but the offset vs the crank is different for left and right. I'm not sure if the older model used the same offset as the left or right cam - the left is supposed to be trigger 2 on the EZ30R's. I suspect the ECU will sort this out for itself but you'll want to check the timing before you fire it up (which you should do anyway, just make sure you actually do it on this engine.

FYI the crank is the 36-2-2-2 and the cam is 3 tooth even spaced but cant manually put in complex numbers like the crank has. 

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Hello,

I spoke with link support and they said all of the triggers were preset under the EZ30/36 AVCS option and I set VVT to off.  All is well there. Now the issue I am having is that when I went to check timing I have no spark.  Any idea why this might be?

Thanks

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Open the runtimes screen (F12) and view the triggers/limits tab during cranking.  Take note of those highlighted below.  Confirm trig 1 & 2 signal turn green and say yes.  Confirm RPM shows something realistic like 150-250RPM.  Confirm no engine protection runtimes are active.

JO09R6n.png

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Hello Adam,

I have gone into my runtime values but I am not getting any reading on my engine rpm nor do my triggers 1 & 2 say yes.  While cranking PCLink says the ecu is online but when I stop cranking it goes straight to offline dispute having the ignition left in the on position.

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10 hours ago, 3.0rs said:

I have gone into my runtime values but I am not getting any reading on my engine rpm nor do my triggers 1 & 2 say yes.

That suggests you most likely have a wiring problem.  Attach your map I'll take a quick look at arming threshold etc but that would generally suggest there is no signal reaching the ecu.

 

  

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12 hours ago, 3.0rs said:

While cranking PCLink says the ecu is online but when I stop cranking it goes straight to offline dispute having the ignition left in the on position.

Can you talk us through this step by step please? 

When you turn the key to off or accessory can you connect to the ECU via USB? 

When you turn the key to ON (before starting it) can you connect to the ECU via USB?

This sounds like something is wired wrong or you have a really flat battery. Can you post a log of you trying to start it?

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Hello again,

I believe that my ECU losing power is due to me sending a 12v signal to the main relay from my radio which likely shuts off while cranking.  I should have this wired directly to the ignition 12v.  Now I am not sure if this would also have an impact on my Engine RPM and triggers not giving me any information but I would assume it would.

Keep in mind that I have never done this before so there may be wiring and or MAP issues in PCLink.

 

Thank you for the help 

EZ30.pclr

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Hello all,

I switched the signal wire going to my main relay so my ECU stays connected while cranking and I am getting 150-200RPM while cranking.  Trigger 1 and trigger 2 are functioning but the car will not start.  Is this just a matter of adjusting fuel?

EDIT:

I am getting a trigger 1 error but only 1 count.

 

Thanks

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Give us a log of it cranking and also a copy of the tune file.   Have you checked base timing?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Looking at your tune file that you attached a couple of posts up, your fuel table is not suitable for modeled mode.  I suggest you import the fuel table I have attached below.  To do this, right click on your existing fuel table, then go to Import/export>import from file.

 

VE Fuel table.lte

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Your MAP calibration is off. Notice how in your log it says BAP = 97.9kpa? your MAP should read the same value (+/- maybe 1kpa). Yours is 10 off, so all the fuel/spark/etc calculations are going to be wrong. Your config shows a bosch 1.15 bar MAP sensor, is this what you have installed or is it the factory sensor? Try running a MAP sensor calibration (ECU Controls menu at the top) but I dont think it will allow this much difference.

Base timing that AdamW refers to isnt mechanical cam>crank sync, it means checking that what the ECU thinks is TDC matches the mechanical TDC. You need a timing light to do this, and on an ez30 you'll need to paint some timing marks onto the front of the engine and the crank pulley as there arent any (good) ones you can use. There are probably 2 indents on the surface of the crank pulley, and when the second mark is straight up is tdc. You need to confirm this by removing the spark plug from #1 and putting a stick/screwdriver/etc in there to verify then paint some marks you will be able to see with a timing light on both the pulley and the block. You'll then need to run the calibtration process at 0deg, or use something to measure 15 deg or so and put a second mark on the pulley here so you can run calibration again with the engine running as it might not idle at 0deg timing.

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Hi CJ,

Thanks for pointing out the MAP sensor.  I know that I have changed that to the Subaru EZ30 AVCS sensor before but it must not have saved.  That would explain the MAP being so far out.  

As far as the timing goes, I have one timing mark marked on the pulley and the timing cover reads from 10-30 degrees I believe.  I will have to check the crank pulley for that second mark you are talking about.  How would I know how far behind the second mark would be?

I appreciate the feedback.

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So I have my TDC and ~15BTDC marked on my crank pulley.  When I attach the timing light I don't get any light which would seem to me like there is no spark.  Is there a trick for checking timing with a Coil on Plug?

I have attached a log of the engine cranking with the proper MAP sensor.

no spark.llg

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There are 2 things to check here, first one is there is a "spark test" built into the ECU. run this against each coil 1 at a time and listen for the correct coil to click. This tells you that your wiring and cylinder numbering are correct.

The next thing is that you cant accurately put a timing light around the low voltage COP feed wires. Even if it will pick up the signal (which it probably wont), it doesnt take into account the time it takes the coil to respond to a firing command. You need to get an old spark lead, pull the #1 coil pack out of the engine, then run that spark lead from the coil pack to the spark plug in #1. Put your timing light around this HT lead.

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Thanks CJ,

I had a HT lead running between the coil pack and the spark plug but I wasn’t sure if the connection was poor or if there was no spark to begin with.  I will run the ignition test on each coil to make sure I’m getting spark on each cylinder.

 

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Hello,

I have figured out a bunch of stuff thanks to Link Support.  I now have spark, fuel and air but the car won't run.  I have set timing but the car will not run.  I was told it might be a good idea to change the plugs however this would involve pulling the engine which I am not too thrilled about.  Just wondering if there is anything else that I might be able to try before going that route.

 

Thanks

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Hello again,

 

I gave in and changed the plugs however I didn't see any changes, only louder pops.  They seem to be delayed, popping after I stop cranking.  Is it possible my timing is out 360 degrees or would that cause everything to run backwards (Exhaust out intake)?  I have a trigger scope and cranking log if someone wouldn't mind having a look.

 

Not running.llg

Trigger Scope Log(NO PLUGS) 2018-09-7 9;20;18 pm.llg

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Yep your timing could well be 360 out. That would mean you are firing at ~TDC on the exhaust stroke. A few backfire events when you stop cranking hints to this as well.

Try adding or subtracting 360 from your trigger1 calibtraion number and try again.

Have you also confirmed that inj1 and ign1 fire the same cylinder when in test mode, and that the inj# numbers match the correct cylinders when in test mode?

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So I tried adjusting the timing 360 degrees but when I put the timing light back on it was way off TDC.  I tried adjust the offset value in the trigger calibrate view but whatever value I put in my mark on the crank pulley was in the same spot.  Why am I unable to change this.  Is this an issue with PCLink.  All the injectors and ignitors are wired correctly.

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I appreciate everyone who’s helped me with this project and I’m sure I will have more questions in the future but for the time being the car is running.  I have a few more things to button up before I’ll be able to drive it but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. 

 

Thanks again

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Hello again,

I am just wondering if anyone has had issues getting a CAN gauge to display data?  I have configured it according to the manufacturer and I am able to customize the layouts however it does not display any live data.

 

Thanks

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