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FunJam

Hayabusa turbo

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The only option our ecu's have for connecting via bluetooth would be using a bluetooth OBD2 dongle.  Im not sure if there are some that are capable of pairing with two devices.  OBD2 can also be quite slow.

A better option maybe something like RaceCapture Track:  https://www.autosportlabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/RaceCapture_Track-MK2-product-brief.pdf

This is a device that connects to the ECU via CAN bus and then to your phone/tablet via wifi.  The connected phone or tablet is used as your dash.  At the same time if your phone/tablet has an internet connection (sim card), it also streams ECU and performance data out to a cloud-based website.  Your mechanic in the pits can then use his phone/tablet/laptop in the pits and view all of that data.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4VmeLCKnfYQ

 

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13 hours ago, FunJam said:

Have been reading owners manual and playing with software for a couple of days now. Most of the questions I have found answers now and keep reading. More I read, more questions come out.. :-)

Came in my mind, that if I would use Android/Tablet via Bluetooth, is it possible to use two tablets at same time? So one would be as dash and with one my mechanic could watch temperatures, pressures etc. in starting line. Off course connection for mechanics tab would be lost at some point of the track. More likely this would be just nice add/show off, but maybe it could be useful at some point.. Dash could also connected with wire if possible. 

I use USB over wifi for controlling my ECU remotely (I plan to install the Link ECU in the boot next to the engine so no long USB wires).  I bought one of these from amazon which work great and are cheap :-

https://www.gl-inet.com/products/gl-mt300n-v2/

 

The hardware then needs reflashing with the virtual USB software:-

https://www.virtualhere.com/hardware

Powered with a 12V micro USB adapter, this gives you USB over WiFi, which should be significantly longer range than bluetooth.  The Virtual firmware is available on a few different platforms so it may be possible to extend the range even further.

 

HTH,

  Richard.

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So, if I'm comparing Fury and Thunder, meaningful differences would be:

-Thermocouples -> I need 4 so probably need to get EGT to can anyway

-2 Lamdas -> I think need only one anyway

- Sensor for g-force -> comes possibly with the dash or with the RaceCapture-device if I decide to get one.   

 

Is there any reason why I should choose Thunder over Fury?  It has got more inputs and outputs, but Fury seems to have enough. 

Do I get more accurate info with Thunders own accelorometer? Do I get more precise ... something?

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On 11/10/2018 at 6:34 AM, FunJam said:

Is there any reason why I should choose Thunder over Fury?  It has got more inputs and outputs, but Fury seems to have enough. 

Do I get more accurate info with Thunders own accelorometer? Do I get more precise ... something?

Yeah, I suspect the Thunder is probably overkill for what you are doing.  It is also quite a large box to fit on a bike.  

 

On 11/10/2018 at 6:34 AM, FunJam said:

Sensor for g-force -> comes possibly with the dash or with the RaceCapture-device if I decide to get one

Or you can use a cheap analog accelerometer.  The nice thing about the internal accelerometer in the Thunder is it has adjustable filtering (to filter out "vibration noise"), whereas if you connected one to an analog input you wouldn't have that - but you can use a resistor-capacitor filter to damp it down a little if needed.  As you say though it is also possible your dash or logger may have that functionality.

The only other feature that may be relevant on the Thunder is there are 4 digital inputs that are much higher speed than the Fury.  The Fury DI's are limited to about 500Hz, the Thunder HS DI's about 6500Hz.  This would probably only be relevant if you had a wheel speed sensor with a high tooth count.

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And cheap analog accelorometer I can more easily assembly with some rubber bands etc. to  damp some vibration. 

I think hall sensors would be the right ones to measure wheel speed. Don't know yet how we are going to build that, but I think we make tooth count to fit with sensor. 

One idea came in my mind thinking this.. It might be possible to measure lock-up actions with hall sensor. If lock-up "claws" would work as tooths, you could see RPMs where first set is out. And when second is coming along, it will douple the "tooths" (in 2-stage lock-up). There speed is fast, but its only informative, so I don't know if it makes big difference or if its worth to choose thunder over fury with this cause. I really don't know if it is even possible to use hall sensor like this. Just crossed my mind.. :-)

 

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On 10/31/2018 at 10:11 PM, Greg W said:

Jani 

I have Adams first example setup on my Suzuki's, with ecu calculated gear 

Wastegate duty trim works good, but my ecu calculated gear is a problem if i change ratios and then have to recalibrate , about to switch to GPS voltage input for gear determination

If you do use the Link and need a base setup i am happy to share 

Greg, I was having a conversation about this  with my team and  heard that GPS voltage in Hayabusa is not stable. In earlier project they had AIM boost controller and had troubles with this and they finally ended up to use push button from shifter to calculate gear and clutch lever to remain it to gear 1.  

I did bought those 2200 cc injectors, there is bank 1 , bank 2 and one spare bank, all flowtested in the shop to match to each other as near as possible. 

Turbo is Holset with billet turbine and we have 8, 12 and 14 exhaust housings, we are going to start from 12. 

20190221_180455.jpg

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Jani  was that with a gen 1 or  gen 2 Busa , the gen 2 have a better GPS unit  that uses an internal brass contact like an ignition switch rather than the gen 1  spring loaded pins on the shift drum that gave a less reliable voltage 
and also were they using the original ecu ? which i think did not always work well with other devises reading the voltage , 

I only finished wiring in my GPS on the weekend with the pull up resistor AdamW mentioned on another thread  and the voltages seem stable so far  although i am about to add an analog dash wire to the GPS AN out and that may have an effect   

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It was Gen 2 with original ECU. 

It is good, that it is working for you. Just thought to mention if it had save some trouble to check it first. 

Can you point out/link  the topic, where this pull up resistor is mentioned? 

 

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Link didn't transfer quite as i expected, but click on the heading 

Use Adams diagram,  i will reply with my voltages later in the day, Adams are very close 

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  I have set the tolerance at 0.30v that may change when i get to the salt next week 

gear

1   1.82v

N   0.30v 

2    2.40

3    3.10

4    3.74

5    4.38

6    4.70 

 

AdamW if i use a tolerance greater than the span between gears does that  cause problems, ? say if i set it to .5v  and the 5-6 variance is .32v  ? 

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