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dan7773

E-Throttle aux9/10 fault

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Hi all, I really could do with done help on this I can’t figure it out. I’m running a link thunder on a 2jzgte with aftermarket electronic throttle body. I originally had a sensor problem and for some reason the auto blip was turned on so it would hold the revs when changing gear, got all that sorted thought everything was fine, cycled the ignition a few times, all ok. Went to drive it yesterday and it’s throwing a aux9/10 power fault code 71/73. I’ve replaced the relay several times, sometimes the car will run & idle fine then turn it off, I go to start up again and after 2 seconds it gives my these 2 codes and goes into limp mode. If I bypass the relay it works fine but I don’t want to run it like that just down to saftey, it just seems to be losing power to the aux9/10. image.thumb.jpg.a405fb86bd0aa905a9b37918b340a435.jpgIve double checked my wiring several times and can’t see where I’m going wrong. I’ve included a sketch of my wiring set up, I apologise for my lack of drawing skills in advance.

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Most likely the error 71&71 are "symptoms" rather than the cause of the problem.  If there is any problem with the throttle system for long enough that the ECU thinks it could be a safety issue then it will shut off the E-throttle relay and you will get those errors as a result.

Start by watching or logging the 3 related error accumulators, you can view them on the runtimes screen as shown below or log them.  These will start counting up whenever there is a small error, if the error corrects itself they will count back down to zero.  If any of these accumulators reach 100 then the safety strategy will be engaged (e-throttle powered down, RPM limited to 1800).  It is acceptable to see these accumulators count up to say 5 or 10 under heavy throttle movement but if you are seeing any of them counting up higher than that then I would say it is this causing your issue and we need to look closer at what is causing that.

25iqec8.png

 

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I think you have attached the wrong log, that log shows no pedal or throttle movement or errors at all.  Can you also attach your tune file with your log when you have one.

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This is the problem, it’s not coming back as an error as such, when I try to calibrate the aps, it throws a aux 9/10 fault straight away, I’ve had the pedal tracking error that’s all sorted now. On the log it shows the ignition being on then as soon As I turn the key it runs for a few seconds then the aux 9/10 fault kicks in, I haven’t even touched the throttle pedal. I also had a hardware block  2/3 error when I repluged the ecu in after I checked the wiring. What I can’t understand is sometimes it will start and run fine then when I cyclye the ignition once then I get this fault. I will post my map up first thing in morning also would it make any difference if the firmware isnt the latest version just that I clicked the firmware button by mistake and it said that there’s a update available.

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10 minutes ago, dan7773 said:

On the log it shows the ignition being on then as soon As I turn the key it runs for a few seconds then the aux 9/10 fault kicks in, I haven’t even touched the throttle pedal.

There is none of that showing in the log though, there is no "turning of the key", there is no engine running, there is no aux 9/10 fault.  Its just 16 seconds of everything sitting static.

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Can I get you to do another log, but set the logging activation to manual and leave it logging continuously until it faults.  This log looks like it must have had some sort of automatic start/stop logging conditions set up and it has only just reconnected a couple of seconds before the e-throttle error happened, Im not sure I trust the first few seconds of a log after reconnection as there is a lot of data moving across the USB.  

If we can believe this log, it actually shows the Aux 9/10 voltage dropping to 2V, before the relay was turned off so that suggests a wiring problem but im not 100% confident that has been captured correctly due to the reconnection.

2eclm5d.png

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Ok, will do. Just out of the workshop for a bit, so as soon as I get back will try and get another log. Thanks

I don’t mean to sound daft, but how do I go about setting the log up so I can get rid of this start/stop activation problem.

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See if this ones any better, Its set to manual on the log setup, I cleared the fault codes and engine started and ran fine then I turned ignition off 1 click left it for a few seconds and re-started the engine and fault appears straight away. if its a wiring fault wouldn't it happen straight away, its seem to happen once I cycle the ignition. 

Log 2018-12-21 10;45;26 am.llg

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I thought maybe I was suffering from a power drain being that the DBW relays at the end of the row of relays, so I took a fused 12v direct from battery and a switched 12v direct from ign, and still getting this fault, changed pins on relays still nothing, works fine when bypassed tho, went down to see another engine tuner friend and on way had hardware block failure 2/3 come up permantly, then he plugged his laptop in and in disappeared. So at the moment I’m well and truly stuck, and don’t really know where to go from here. As that wiring setup should of worked as I can’t get the feeds from anywhere better than that. Anybody got any idea’s, I’m all out.

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Just though I’ll add this in case anyone else has the same problems, tried changing to a spare aux port still no luck, so decided to wire relay to switch high side and at the moment all seems to be ok. Will have a proper drive over the weekend to see if any more problems arise.

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you have a wiring problem, not a config problem

as Adam pointed out above, but its more clearly visible in the latest log, your input voltage received by the 9/10 supply line drops off about 1.5 seconds *before* your ethrottle relay output is cut by the ECU.

Key point in the below screenshot

red: engine starts cranking, supply voltage drops from 12.8 ish to 10.8 ish (normal) this line also follow battery voltage exactly (also normal)

blue: engine fires up, cant see it here but RPM jumps from 300 ish cranking rpm to 1500. ethrottle supply voltage also dies at this point. "tp not on target" error counter starts to go up because the throttle is no longer controlled by the ECU.

black: "tp not on target" error reaches cutoff threshold and the ethrottle relay output is cut off.

image.png.252637ceb8e3ae4777da7c893f48549e.png

How easy is it to backprobe these relays? i'd be interested to know if when things fail, while the engine is still running, if pin 86 and 30 on the ethrottle relay are still showing battery voltage. Following your diagram, For one reason or another the ECU isn't receiving voltage on the aux9/10 input pin, even though it has the aux7 "eth relay" output grounded. You say you've already swapped the relay so thats unlikely to be the problem.if you are still seeing battery voltage "into" both pins on the relay, then your problem is either the wire/connectors between the eth relay pin 87 and the ECU aux9/10 pin, or the wire from aux7 to pin85 on the eth relay (remember that if the relay isnt seeing the Ground from the ECU then it will cut out). 

To test the aux7->pin85 wire, with the engine still running and pin85 backprobed with a multimeter, change the aux7 output to GP out test and then toggle it on/off see if the signal makes it to the relay. your meter should jump between open circuit or 6v ish, to Ground when you swap the output status. You can also change it to high side drive and check you receive 12v at that pin (this will not damage the relay). 

 

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I ended up taking it to a friend who installs these all the time, we ended up using +12v direct from battery and switched 12v direct from ign, and still aux 7 was dropping out. We even used a different aux output (4) but had the same issue. Found out aux4 is low side driver aswell. Ecu was just having none of it, tried turning power hold off car wouldn’t even run, but as soon( after a fair few long hours) we changed to high side setup, all worked fine. We don’t understand why this happened at the moment, but if we pernantly wired relay to a earth on pin 85 it would work as it should do, just could not get ecu to run with the setup listed in pc link. But at the moment all is ok with high side setup.

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