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KD

Help needed fuel pump control

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Good morning.

i just install the link G4+ Fury and followed the wiring diagram for the fuel pump. As soon as the vehicle starts for a brief moment it shuts down, if I remove the aux 5 wire and connect the ground from the relay directly to earth while cranking the engine won’t start. If I connect the wire intermediately first at Aux5 while cranking and then move the wire to chassis ground it fires and idle smoothly. 

Need some help to rectify the problem 

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Thanks for the response Adam. 

Yes I did test the circuit and it’s work but when I tried cranking the ground seems to be fading away not providing a constant ground supply.

I created a 2nd map and it seemed to solve my problem.

I’m now having a problem with my rpm as it’s not synchronized with my tachometer which is the OEM unit, I logged the rpm to 8500 and when I test it during driving the gauge is reflecting 7800 at limit. 

Is there some form of calibration needed for it reflect correctly? 

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Good night guys!

I think I’m stuck in the middle of the bridge    . I took the car to a local dyno shop to get things started with a mild tune, along the way I notice immediately as VVL/Lift engages the power dive instantly at 6000rpm and took a few sec before it starts to climb.

At this point I am not sure what’s the culprit but I’m assuming it along the lines of the VVL an VVT settings. 

Here is a copy of the graph, the RED is a pull I made with the stock ecu and the BLUE is with the fury.

 

 

B1FEA838-84C8-4979-A184-EE5B5E9004F8.jpeg

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Nobody here is going to be able to diagnose much from a dyno chart.  Post a log and the tune file.  Also it would help to know what the engine is.

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As well as what AdamW says about VVT (cam phasing) being disabled, you dont even have VVL (high cam switchover) configured. There should be a digital input configured as CAM Switch or GP output and set to switch on at your VTEC/VVL RPM/tps/etc condition. Without this, your entire dyno run has been done on the low cam. This need to be hooked up to one side of your VVL solenoid, and the other side has to be fed 12v+ from the main relay or some other relay.

Why it looks like you have power drop off right on VVL switchng is because you seem to have only tuned things up to that point.

This is your fuel table, and the big peak is right around 5500RPM. Everything below this looks at least partially tuned for WOT. after this point, your fuelling drops nearly 30% immediately. You dont have a lambda sensor hooked up but i'd bet it goes super lean at about 6000RPM hence your drop in power.

image.png.b3e5fb7ee268569b70dbbc70595782b4.png

Have you given any thought to how you want to tune the high cam? you can do it the way VTEC Honda's have been done for years using 2x fuel, ignition, and VVT  maps tuned separately by setting the CCL switch point really high then really low while tuning each side of it, then set the cam switching RPM to the point the torque curves cross, and setting the switchover control fuel fuel+ignition+VVT table 2 to be the VVL signal. You can also do it with a single table if you have a pretty good idea where you want the switchover RPM to be, and then you just tune the various tables as if the VVL switching is just a part of the engine as the RPM increases.  The first option takes longer but means you have a pretty good idea of where optimum VVL engagement point is, and if you tweak this you dotn have to make many other changes (just tweaking the VVT table usually aroudn switchover RPM so the high and low CAM VVT angles almost match). If you tune it as a single table you have to have a pretty good idea where your switchover RPM should be to start with. 

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Good day.

Thanks guys for the feedback. I really appreciate it. 

Ok prior to tuning I was uncertain of the physical wire up of the Solenoids so I sent an email to you guys an I was told to wire both positive side of the Solenoids through a 12v ignition switch through a relay then wire the negative side through the aux output side which I did, I tried the switching with and without pulsing which doesn’t work while tuning, I test the circuit to see if it’s functioning by activating test on during engine idle and it immediately shuts the engine off which confirms the aux output is working. What I didn’t try was wiring up the Solenoids through the digital input to aux output side. 

Regarding the fuel currently I had a external wideband hooked up which registers 13.1afr at Lift engagement through to 12.6afr to redline, but something is off when Lift engages.

how should I proceed in wiring up the VVT and VVL Solenoids? 

I was thinking of for VVT I would wire the positive side through 12v+ ignition relay and Aux output for ground 

VVL positive side to Digital Input to Aux output for ground. 

Ok so where peak at 5500 rpm the engine was leaning out and detonating so I had to make some adjustment in that area. 

 

.

 

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Quick question.

Should I wire up 14v+ and ground side of wireloom-B?

As it is now that side in not connected, if I should how should approach wiring the ground side?

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11 hours ago, cj said:

you dont even have VVL (high cam switchover) configured.

I don't know this engine well, but isn't this what he has set up on Aux2 - just labelled wrong.

 

56 minutes ago, KD said:

o I sent an email to you guys an I was told to wire both positive side of the Solenoids through a 12v ignition switch through a relay then wire the negative side through the aux output side which I did,

That sounds fine to me.

 

57 minutes ago, KD said:

What I didn’t try was wiring up the Solenoids through the digital input to aux output side.

Don't know what this would achieve, it should work fine as it is.

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1 hour ago, Adamw said:

I don't know this engine well, but isn't this what he has set up on Aux2 - just labelled wrong.

Yes it is sorry. I didnt actually look at the settings, the label threw me. And its set at 5900rpm. This doesnt change my statement about the fuel table, and its probably making the fuelling issue worse actually. In general the high cam wants more fuel / a higher VE number, but with this cam switch in mind, you swap to high cam at about the same time your fuel table numbers drop off like crazy. This means it will be running extra lean... between 5900 and about 7-7.5k.

As a starting point, open up that fuel table in log view, see which cells the crosshairs go through when at WOT, take the last tuned value at 5500 ish, add 10 to it and set this as the 6000 value , then set this same value in all the WOT crosshair cells up to redline. It wont be a tuned number but it will be a hell of a lot closer than what you have now.

...and enable your VVT like Adam said too by changing "VVT cam test type" to "off" in VVT control.

1 hour ago, Adamw said:

Don't know what this would achieve, it should work fine as it is.

The factory toyota wiring on these feeds both the positive and negative side of the VVT & VVL solenoids from the ECU and this messes with peoples heads thinking they should copy it.

@KD It sounds like you have done it right by having relay fed 12v to one side, and the ECU controlling the ground side only for both of these solenoids.

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