selimusta Posted January 22, 2019 Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 Hello everyone I have my ek civic turbo and I bought CIVICLINK (98) - # HC96 +.plugIn ecu... There is an interesting problem for about 6 months.I'm going on the road , when I want to speed up (5500-6000 rpm), ecu is disconnected and crash. Ign off-on is running after the engine again.I am getting the error messages as in the picture below. I saw the same problem here another title it was written about there are aux inputs. I removed all the equipment in the external aux input. I suspect the PC is connected i'll try this without pc connection in the evening. I did the latest version update the problem did not improve. I need your help with this problem. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 23, 2019 Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 I havent seen this before so I have asked engineering if they have any thoughts, I probably wont have any info from them until tomorrow.. What does it have for an ignition system? Have you only had this happen when the laptop is connected? How regularly does it happen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selimusta Posted January 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 58 minutes ago, Adamw said: I havent seen this before so I have asked engineering if they have any thoughts, I probably wont have any info from them until tomorrow.. What does it have for an ignition system? Have you only had this happen when the laptop is connected? How regularly does it happen? Hi Adamw I am using carpc. This morning I closed the pc and tried it again, it was again. Doing even when not connected to any pc. I use the honda (k20) coil in the ignition system.I didn't get over 6000 rpm for about 30km this morning , it stops the engine every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selimusta Posted January 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 Recently I connected 4-5 analog and aux equipments.I suspected them, but I canceled the connection from all of them , but I did not make a change from pclink.Could it be software source? I have a question. If I want to get a log, will it be saved when the ECU closes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 24, 2019 Report Share Posted January 24, 2019 Talking to engineering this morning they say they have only seen this happen with extreme electrical noise. Since the ignition system is not stock, this is the first thing I would be looking at. How are your coils grounded? Preferably direct to the cylinder head. Where do the coils get power from? I would also try a condenser on the coil power supply. I notice the main engine ground strap is connected to one of the cam cover bolts (which is insulated with a rubber gasket), you should probably move this so its bolted direct to the cylinder head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selimusta Posted January 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2019 I have grounded the coils directly through the thermostat.The coils are powered by the ign output on the distributor socket. Actually I always suspected the power there.I'm going to check the power there. We have discussed a lot with friends about the main motor grounding strap, but the factory has done it like this. Also, the bolt to which the earthing is connected goes to the engine block.I added a pic.The service manual says it should be where it should be. I'il make a general check and let you know.Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregconboy158 Posted January 24, 2019 Report Share Posted January 24, 2019 A main problem is you've used ground for coils from the thermostat housing. Change this to one of the dizzy bolts or end cap bolt next to the dizzy. What are you using for crank and cam sensors too? I see no dizzy on there and also no cam sensor bracket/wiring As Adam has said too, you've got the ground in the wrong place. It should be on the threaded part next to where it is. You're doing nothing where it is right now because of the rubber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Hill Posted January 24, 2019 Report Share Posted January 24, 2019 A simple, tried and trusted solution for earths is :- main engine strap goes from chassis to engine block (normally one of the engine mount points) Coil on plug earth goes from head to a splice to each coil on plug ground ( I usually use an inlet manifold bolt as this does create a very low resistance path to the spark plug earth strap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj Posted January 25, 2019 Report Share Posted January 25, 2019 9 hours ago, Gregconboy158 said: You're doing nothing where it is right now because of the rubber. Its not quite as bad as that, there is still a 6 or 8mm thick bolt/stud underneath that nut which has its other end in the head, so there is a reasonable path to ground through this. It would still be preferable to ground it to the block directly as you don't know how much contact that stud has with the block or what its made of. What I've done in situations like this is make a second new cable with rings on both ends, and sandwich one end under that factory ground location, and the other end to a better location on the block - any of the block side engine mount bolts is usually good. If you wanted to be scientific about it, put your multimeter on volts (or use a scope if you have one), connect one end to the engine block and the other end to that that nut on the top of the cam cover, and see if you register any voltage differential when the engine is running. Repeat the same test between the battery negative terminal and the block, and a third time between the block and the ground pin on each of your coils (you'll need to back probe the connector as it must be running as normal). This will definitively tell you if you have coil grounding issues. If you run the same test from the engine block to the ground pins on the ECU you can also verify that the ECU is seeing good ground / not overloading the ground wires too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 25, 2019 Report Share Posted January 25, 2019 Can you just move the ground strap to one of these two bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selimusta Posted January 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2019 15 hours ago, Gregconboy158 said: A main problem is you've used ground for coils from the thermostat housing. Change this to one of the dizzy bolts or end cap bolt next to the dizzy. What are you using for crank and cam sensors too? I see no dizzy on there and also no cam sensor bracket/wiring As Adam has said too, you've got the ground in the wrong place. It should be on the threaded part next to where it is. You're doing nothing where it is right now because of the rubber. I was using the hondata cpr before I started using link ecu. And in his installation, he said that the coil should be grounded from the thermostat housing.Maybe the wrong place but i had to comply.I'm gonna try to ground it from where you said it. I replaced the crankshaft sensor with b18c1 oem. This mounted on a crankshaft pulley. I use holley (554-125) with fly magnet on cam sensor. you're wrong about grounding there because that bolt is directly in contact with the engine block.I added a picture there. Thanks. 8 hours ago, Richard Hill said: A simple, tried and trusted solution for earths is :- main engine strap goes from chassis to engine block (normally one of the engine mount points) Coil on plug earth goes from head to a splice to each coil on plug ground ( I usually use an inlet manifold bolt as this does create a very low resistance path to the spark plug earth strap. I'm gonna try to ground it from where you said it.Thanks. 5 hours ago, cj said: Its not quite as bad as that, there is still a 6 or 8mm thick bolt/stud underneath that nut which has its other end in the head, so there is a reasonable path to ground through this. It would still be preferable to ground it to the block directly as you don't know how much contact that stud has with the block or what its made of. What I've done in situations like this is make a second new cable with rings on both ends, and sandwich one end under that factory ground location, and the other end to a better location on the block - any of the block side engine mount bolts is usually good. If you wanted to be scientific about it, put your multimeter on volts (or use a scope if you have one), connect one end to the engine block and the other end to that that nut on the top of the cam cover, and see if you register any voltage differential when the engine is running. Repeat the same test between the battery negative terminal and the block, and a third time between the block and the ground pin on each of your coils (you'll need to back probe the connector as it must be running as normal). This will definitively tell you if you have coil grounding issues. If you run the same test from the engine block to the ground pins on the ECU you can also verify that the ECU is seeing good ground / not overloading the ground wires too. I'm gonna try this. Especially with a voltmeter. thank you for your description. 2 hours ago, Adamw said: Can you just move the ground strap to one of these two bolts? Of course.I will do this.I will try. Im sorry I could write because of the time difference. I'll let you know I'll try them all. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selimusta Posted March 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 I finally solved the problem.My vehicle has no problem with grounding.Everything and all these problems are due to the fact that the spark plugs are not resistor.I've installed the resistor spark plug everything has improved. Thank you to everyone for help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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