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airjer

2GR-FE Turbocharged MR2 Build

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I'm extremely close to finishing my build and trying to get this thing running.  This is the setup.

  • Brand new Toyota Shortblock closed decked and re-machined
  • 2007 Avalon 2GR heads
  • Custom Wiseco pistons
  • Custom BC Racing Rods
  • ACL Race Bearings
  • Shimmed Oil pump 
  • Custom Manley Sodium filled Stainless Steel 1mm oversized valves
  • Custom Manley Valve Springs to match new valves
  • Ferrea Titanium Retainers
  • Custom T-11 Tool Steel Lash caps 
  • Stock Cams for now
  • Moroso Oil Pan
  • Radium Fuel Rails
  • ID2000cc injectors
  • Holley EFI Hi-Ram intake manifold top 300-219 bolted to the 300-217 Holley HI-Ram Manifold top and all this bolted to the factory lower plenum
  • 102MM GM LS Drive by wire Throttle Body
  •  Toyota DBW pedal
  • 1.5" Stainless steel steam pipe ells primaries to 2" V Bands with a 2" Ypipe into a T4 Flange
  • (2) Tial MV-R Wastegates
  • Borg Warner S366 SXE Turbocharger 
  • Custom Water to Air Intercooler 
  • Jabsco Cyclone Centrifugal pump
  • Methanol Injection/Water Injection using Shurflo pump
  • Planning on running E85/Flex Fuel
  • Link G4+ Fury
  • Link 6.5 Bar Map Sensor

 

This MR2 has Air Conditioning, Cruise Control, ABS and Power Steering.   I'd like to keep all this functioning.  In addition I'm curious if there is a way to use ABS and the Throttlebody.

 

What I know I dont have so far and need/want to purchase

  • Ethanol content sensor
  • Intake Air Temp Sensor
  • Fuel Pressure Sensor
  • Oil Pressure Sensor
  • Manifold Air Temperature Sensor
  • (2) LSU 4.9 Sensors 
  • Boost Control Solenoid
  • Link MXS Strada dash
  • Oil Temperature Sensor

I'm pretty sure I can use my factory Coolant temp sensor.   My Throttle body doesn't seem to have a idle air bypass like a Toyota throttle body would have, also I don't have a AC Idle up valve.   

 

So I'm trying to figure out what all I need, and make sure I'll have enough input/outputs for everything.   If anyone has suggestions of which sensors to use, and links to the best deals that would be awesome.  Any tips for setup?   Any links to High quality loom materials, motorsport quality stuff.   

If there is anything you guys see that I may be missing out on, please drop me a suggestion.   

 

Thanks in advance for any help.  

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2 hours ago, airjer said:

My Throttle body doesn't seem to have a idle air bypass like a Toyota throttle body would have, also I don't have a AC Idle up valve.

Thats normal for a DBW TB. all idle control is done by the ECU opening up the main throttle blade by a small percentage. The tables to do this are the same in the link ECU's for a IAC valve and a DBW TPS % offset, just the numbers are % TPS angle rather than PWM % or stepper motor value like they would be on an IAC

For the oil and fuel pressure sensors, the honeywell PX3's are good. I get mine from mouser or digikey. Ideally the models with viton seals internally as these are a little more resistant to petrol that normal silicon seals. 10 bar max for oil is good, and fuel will work just fine with the same sensor, but you could opt for a lower max value and get a bit more resolution on fuel pressure as you will probably only run fuel up to 3-4 bar. Either will work fine.

I'd put in an oil temp sensor before a mainfold temp sensor. All the engine calibrations expect to use IAT only for air temp, and the oil temp can be useful for a safety cut or warning light.

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I was thinking of using a air temp sensor before and after the intercooler.  To see the efficiency of the W2A intercooler and my chiller.   I have a r134a Slushee machine evaporator inside my intercooler tank that keeps the intercooler water chilled to 40 degrees. 

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Do you have any pics of your setup? Curious to see how you have setup the slushee evaporator. 

 

In my water tank I added another tank inside to fill with dry ice. I also have IAT sensors both side of the water core to measure temp drop across the core. 

 

The more water flow you have the better I found.

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5 hours ago, airjer said:

I was thinking of using a air temp sensor before and after the intercooler.  To see the efficiency of the W2A intercooler and my chiller.   I have a r134a Slushee machine evaporator inside my intercooler tank that keeps the intercooler water chilled to 40 degrees. 

The recommended location of the IAT sensor is after the turbo + intercooler, just before the throttle plate. This way the ECU has the best idea about the actual temp of the air entering the engine. If you install additional sensors you can view them in log files etc but they will be for your interest only and wont participate in the actual fuelling calculations.

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I would consider adding an idle valve if it were me.  Although you can control idle with DBW as CJ suggests, with a 102mm throttle on a 3.5L engine it is not going to be great idle control.

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20 hours ago, Ducie54 said:

Do you have any pics of your setup? Curious to see how you have setup the slushee evaporator. 

 

In my water tank I added another tank inside to fill with dry ice. I also have IAT sensors both side of the water core to measure temp drop across the core. 

 

The more water flow you have the better I found.

I don't have any pictures of the slushee evaporator but it's very similar to this https://fiinterchillers.com/products/

The Jabsco Cyclone Centrifugal pump flows 30gpm and I have a heat exchanger at the front of the car, and the resevoir and everything is in the trunk. 

16 hours ago, cj said:

The recommended location of the IAT sensor is after the turbo + intercooler, just before the throttle plate. This way the ECU has the best idea about the actual temp of the air entering the engine. If you install additional sensors you can view them in log files etc but they will be for your interest only and wont participate in the actual fuelling calculations.

I had actually planned to put the IAT for fueling calculations behind the throttlebody in the intake manifold.  is there anything wrong with putting it there?

9 hours ago, Adamw said:

I would consider adding an idle valve if it were me.  Although you can control idle with DBW as CJ suggests, with a 102mm throttle on a 3.5L engine it is not going to be great idle control.

It's actually a 4.0 Liter Engine,  I am using a modified 1GR crankshaft. But still I thought it might be needed to smooth out the idle.

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3 hours ago, airjer said:

I don't have any pictures of the slushee evaporator but it's very similar to this https://fiinterchillers.com/products/

The Jabsco Cyclone Centrifugal pump flows 30gpm and I have a heat exchanger at the front of the car, and the resevoir and everything is in the trunk. 

I had actually planned to put the IAT for fueling calculations behind the throttlebody in the intake manifold.  is there anything wrong with putting it there?

It's actually a 4.0 Liter Engine,  I am using a modified 1GR crankshaft. But still I thought it might be needed to smooth out the idle.

At full throttle no, but at part throttle you can get some reverberations,  EGR effects depending on VVT timing and cam overlap, and the IAT can read higher than it should because of this. It can also get damaged by fuel mixture floating around in the throttle body.

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35 minutes ago, cj said:

At full throttle no, but at part throttle you can get some reverberations,  EGR effects depending on VVT timing and cam overlap, and the IAT can read higher than it should because of this. It can also get damaged by fuel mixture floating around in the throttle body.

That make sense.  I will put it in the throttle body if there is enough room, or Ill weld an extension onto the throttlebody so I dont have to place it in the intercooler piping.

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