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Dhornby88

G4+ GTX 323 BPT novice questions set up

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Hi

Purchased my first link product, G4+ plug n play for my Ford Laser running a GTX/GTR 323 engine and factory harness.

Had a few queries im unsure about

-fuel pump trigger relay, I have a walbro 460 so have ran fatter wiring and relay, factory set up i had a wire ran from ignition triggering the relay and turning on the pump. But i was hoping the link would do this for me, do i use an AUX 7,8 to trigger the relay to turn on pump from the expansion loom i purchased?

-dizzy swapping style to coil on plug, i have purchased some coils that have inbuilt igniters, 4 wires are running from the coil on plug wiring i received,  guessing 2 are trigger for the waste spark other 2 wires one is ground and 1 direct ignition power? see images below of the coil side of the plug i have

-tachometer converting to coil on plug my tach wont work? i do know where the negative of the coil is on my factory harness i think thats what sends the signal to the dash, how would i get a tacho read when converting to coil on plug

-should i purchase 2 expansion harness's? as i noticed in the manual expansion connector one offers temp sender output that id need for my link air temp sender? but expansion 2 that has what i need for wideband control (aem uego i have) and the coil on plug setup plus fuel pump.

 

Hope it makes sense some feedback and pointers would be appreciated with the install, ill possibly attempt to get the car running on the standard dizzy for starters then add coil on plug at later date?

 

Regards Daniel

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42 minutes ago, Dhornby88 said:

-fuel pump trigger relay, I have a walbro 460 so have ran fatter wiring and relay, factory set up i had a wire ran from ignition triggering the relay and turning on the pump. But i was hoping the link would do this for me, do i use an AUX 7,8 to trigger the relay to turn on pump from the expansion loom i purchased?

Yep, ign 7 or 8 on the expansion would be good options.  Other options would be Aux 5 on the main header that was originally for FP solenoid or Aux 6 that controls the turbo light or Aux 3 that done FP speed control on some models.

 

45 minutes ago, Dhornby88 said:

-dizzy swapping style to coil on plug, i have purchased some coils that have inbuilt igniters, 4 wires are running from the coil on plug wiring i received,  guessing 2 are trigger for the waste spark other 2 wires one is ground and 1 direct ignition power? see images below of the coil side of the plug i have

I would guess that 2 since there are only 4 wires but which is which is anyones guess.  You will either have to beep it out yourself or find some documentation from however makes it.

 

46 minutes ago, Dhornby88 said:

-tachometer converting to coil on plug my tach wont work? i do know where the negative of the coil is on my factory harness i think thats what sends the signal to the dash, how would i get a tacho read when converting to coil on plug

This will be a "high level" tacho, designed to be driven by the high voltage spike that comes off the coil, so a 12V aux output from the ECU will not drive it.  The easiest option is a "tacho booster" like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/142171581596  This would be connected to one of the other spare aux outputs.

 

51 minutes ago, Dhornby88 said:

-should i purchase 2 expansion harness's? as i noticed in the manual expansion connector one offers temp sender output that id need for my link air temp sender? but expansion 2 that has what i need for wideband control (aem uego i have) and the coil on plug setup plus fuel pump.

The temp sensor can be connected to the old airflow meter plug.  The lambda can connect to the same expansion as the fuel pump.  Coils dont go to the expansion loom they will need to be wired direct to ign 1 & 2 on the main header.

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22 hours ago, Adamw said:

Thanks Adam, im trying to be as thorough as possible with my queries. i will possibily employ at auto sparky to assist, can Team viewer be used to check that i have the settings correct etc is that support you offer?

 

Yep, ign 7 or 8 on the expansion would be good options.  Other options would be Aux 5 on the main header that was originally for FP solenoid or Aux 6 that controls the turbo light or Aux 3 that done FP speed control on some models.

If the AUX 7 wire is ran to the wire that triggers the pump thats ok, id leave the rest of wiring i already made? i can provide images of this

I would guess that 2 since there are only 4 wires but which is which is anyones guess.  You will either have to beep it out yourself or find some documentation from however makes it.

See below diagram of factory gtx ecu pin out hoping to work with the neatest method that other people have done swapping from distributor to coil.

This will be a "high level" tacho, designed to be driven by the high voltage spike that comes off the coil, so a 12V aux output from the ECU will not drive it.  The easiest option is a "tacho booster" like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/142171581596  This would be connected to one of the other spare aux outputs.

Thanks ill source this off ebay

The temp sensor can be connected to the old airflow meter plug.  The lambda can connect to the same expansion as the fuel pump.  Coils dont go to the expansion loom they will need to be wired direct to ign 1 & 2 on the main header.

Should i be unpinning the main head plug for the AFM then running a wire from that point to the air temp sensor? will the ecu need settings changed? or would be simpler to use expansion loom? for the air temp sensor.

Regarding coil triggers for 1&4, 2&3 would i be best unpinning from the head main plug, see image below 1G,1H pins be used as the triggers? where would i be best getting power and earth for coils? expansion loom or direct ignition and earth?

 

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I purchased the Link boost controller and i thought id have to use PIN 1H, but that would be my second trigger for the coils? would you suggest i splice into the wires? or should it unpin from the main harness?

can i then use the expansion harness for the boost controller?

 

regards

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19 minutes ago, Dhornby88 said:

If the AUX 7 wire is ran to the wire that triggers the pump thats ok, id leave the rest of wiring i already made? i can provide images of this

As long as you mean trigger the pump relay, and not the pump directly.  the Aux output will supply a ground to turn on the relay, your wiring needs to provide the ignition switched +12v to the other side of the relay coil.

 

21 minutes ago, Dhornby88 said:

Should i be unpinning the main head plug for the AFM then running a wire from that point to the air temp sensor? will the ecu need settings changed? or would be simpler to use expansion loom? for the air temp sensor.

Thats up to you.  The most common option would be to snip off the old air flow meter plug and run two wires from there to the temp sensor.  You will just need to assign IAT to whatever input you decide to use in the software.

 

24 minutes ago, Dhornby88 said:

Regarding coil triggers for 1&4, 2&3 would i be best unpinning from the head main plug, see image below 1G,1H pins be used as the triggers? where would i be best getting power and earth for coils? expansion loom or direct ignition and earth?

Yes 1G & 1H are where the ignition coil signals come from.  The 12V for the coils should come from a relay that switches on with ignition, the existing wire that supplied 12V to the original coil will probably be adequate.  The ground would be best to connect directly to the cylinder head somewhere.

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27 minutes ago, Adamw said:

As long as you mean trigger the pump relay, and not the pump directly.  the Aux output will supply a ground to turn on the relay, your wiring needs to provide the ignition switched +12v to the other side of the relay coil.

 

Thats up to you.  The most common option would be to snip off the old air flow meter plug and run two wires from there to the temp sensor.  You will just need to assign IAT to whatever input you decide to use in the software.

 

Yes 1G & 1H are where the ignition coil signals come from.  The 12V for the coils should come from a relay that switches on with ignition, the existing wire that supplied 12V to the original coil will probably be adequate.  The ground would be best to connect directly to the cylinder head somewhere.

Thanks for that input, and the link boost controller, what would you suggest I do with that?

the stock solenoid is controlled by the second trigger I would use for the coils.

or can I use expansion harness for the boost controller?

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The boost control can be done via any free Aux channel, You might have one free on the main header or on the XS loom 

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Hi 

I tried to run an injector test and only cylinder 1&2 are clicking, 3&4 nothing. It’s on setting sequential, they are high impedance injectors, but I did leave the factory GTX injector resistor pack unplugged.

Injector setting was on sequential, did test that they are clicking with direct power to injector off the battery.

 

another question regarding using AFM wiring at the plug, do I just take the 1 signal wire at AFM unpin and run that to the Airtemp sensor? And earth the other side? Or do I run the other wire back to the expansion harness? See images below.

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Hi Adam, Simon

Seeming to have an issue where i can only get 2 injectors firing when i perform the test, ive swapped the injector loom, swapped plugs and checked if they are blocked and still cant get it to work.

I thought it was due to the factory GTX harness runs a resistor pack. I tried with it plugged in and unplugged no change. I have high impedance injectors.

Ive gone into injector mode tried with sequential and multi group too. Could you assist? I dont know what easiest using team viewer or facetime or skype?

Can be difficult to be thorough writing a message online

I added images to my thread you were messaging me on if that helps?

thanks

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What you are seeing sounds normal.  The GTX's and GTR's were batch fire, the injectors are wired in pairs.  When you do a test on Injector drive 1 you should get both injector 1 & 3 clicking.  When you do a test on injector drive 2 then injectors 2 & 4 should click.  Injector drives 3 & 4 arent connected to anything in the stock loom.

Edit - added later:  Injection mode should be set to multipoint group and you should bypass that resistor.

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2 minutes ago, Adamw said:

What you are seeing sounds normal.  The GTX's and GTR's were batch fire, the injectors are wired in pairs.  When you do a test on Injector drive 1 you should get both injector 1 & 3 clicking.  When you do a test on injector drive 2 then injectors 2 & 4 should click.  Injector drives 3 & 4 arent connected to anything in the stock loom.

Edit - added later:  Injection mode should be set to multipoint group and you should bypass that resistor.

Thanks Adam,

Bypass the resistor leave it un plugged? or cut the plug off and twist the wires together and solder?

 

Thanks Daniel

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Actually, Im not convinced what you have there is actually an injector ballast.  Do the injectors still click with that unplugged?  Our wiring diagram doesnt show one. 

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1 minute ago, Adamw said:

Actually, Im not convinced what you have there is actually an injector ballast.  Do the injectors still click with that unplugged?  Our wiring diagram doesnt show one. 

Hmm thats possibly for knock sensor, as the knock control unit it right next too it, and yes the injectors still click when its unplugged.

 

good point.

 

regards

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Ok, leave it alone then, it is not an injector resistor.  Im just trying to find a pinout for your airflow meter plug to confirm air temp sensor wires.

 

19 hours ago, Dhornby88 said:

another question regarding using AFM wiring at the plug, do I just take the 1 signal wire at AFM unpin and run that to the Airtemp sensor? And earth the other side? Or do I run the other wire back to the expansion harness? See images below.

4BE2F6E2-1338-453F-AEB0-3BF9E46DEC71.jpeg

 

 

1

The black with light green stripe is sensor ground, connect this to one of the IAT pins.  The red with black stripe is the temp input, connect this to the other IAT pin.

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Hi Team

I have a AEM UEGO gauge part 30-5130, since the ecu install its reading on gauge but cant get it to work through the ecu,

 

I have currently selected LAMBDA 1 on ANALOG 9, see images below where i wired it too, i also used the expansion harness to supply the other 5V.

 

Have i possibly wired it up to wrong parts of the expansion loom?

 

Thanks

 

 

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Check the error voltages on AN volt 9 sometimes these will be incorrect and cause fault conditions.

Low 0.00 and high 5.0 for testing will do the trick.

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