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Link g1 plus how to boost control ecu pin?


Chris Simms

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Hi all, im totally stuck and cant find this info anywhere on line.

I have an old LINK G1 plus on my GT4 and want to wire in a 2 or 3 port solinoid to run boost control from the ECU boost table feature.

Can anyone PLEASE tell me which pin it is on the ECU (eg aux 1)???

Then im guessing i just ground the other wire on the solinoid?

If anyone could give me a rough guide please as what i need to wire one up id be REALLY appreciative. 

Also does anyone have a G1 pinout diagram to be sure? My ecu runs off my laptop not the hand controller if that helps.

Goin nuts trying to find this info. Couldnt see anything about which pins in either of the manuals.

 

Many thanks

 

Chris

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Thinking about it i also would like to control my charge cooler pump to power up AFTER the engine has started. Just using a simple switch at the min. Can you advise me an easy way to go about this? Sorry for the dumb questions. Fried an ecu a while back so wanna get it right.

Could i use the spray? or Drive A/B? What would be the best way to configure it?

 

Thanks again

 

Chris

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Simon

Last DUMB question i promise... just wanna be a thousand % sure ive understood this right as im the Homer Simpson of electronics...

So the yellow/blue wire from AUX2 on the ECU harness wires directly to one pin of the the switch hooked up to the clutch..........The other pin on the switch just grounds straight to the body?

Reason i cant seem to get my head round this is if AUX2 is kicking out 12v and i ground it wouldnt that just short out/spark/fry the ECU???

Feel like a complete fool asking this. Ive already fried a HKS ecu years ago trying to fit a better coil. Went badly way too quickly lol.

Have set the launch settings to -25 degrees at 3k. Sound reasonable to test?

 

Thanks yet again

 

Chris

 

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Yes you have it correct - short Aux 2 to ground to activate launch control.  

It is a bit hard to explain but aux 2 is not connected directly to 12V, it is connected to 12V with a relatively weak resistor.  This is known as a pull-up resistor. A pic below to show the basic principle.  When the switch is open the 12V travels through the resistor into the microcontroller pin - so the microcontroller sees +12V.  When you close the switch/button there is a direct path to ground so the 12V travels through the resistor, through the switch and straight to ground, so the micro sees 0V.

The reason nothing "blows up" when shorted to ground is the resistor is quite high resistance so not much current is flowing, probably only ~2mA.

 

2z4imue.png

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Hi Adam,

THANKYOU ;  )

That explains it VERY well.

LINK/your teams customer support, even for older outdated (still v v good now) ecus is second to none. After ALL the help you guys have given me im never gonna buy anything else apart from LINK when i upgrade because the support is just FANTASTIC. You guys are the Bee's Knees. Gonna go have some fun now i understand fully whats goin on.

Thanks again

Chris

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Adam/Simon,

Am still having some probs trying to set up my outputs and boost controller.

Am using DRIVE B to switch on my chargecooler pump. No matter what i save the starting RPM it keeps reverting back to 5000?

Same with the water spray. Am using this for my meth injection pump, it reverts back to 50% at 70FF no matter what i save it as.

Last prob im having is setting up the MAC 3 port controller. Have attached one wire from the mac solanoid to the W gate pin on the back of the ecu... and the other solanoid wire to the bodywork common grounding point. Should this other wire go to a 12v ignition instead of grounding it? Im using an external WG btw.

Im ok with mechanical stuff but have really bin in over my depth trying to figure out setting up the ecu lately. Any help you guys could give me again would be GREATLY appreciated.

Gonna test AUX 2 output today for the launch control, to see if that works.

Many thanks

Chris

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16 hours ago, Chris Simms said:

Am using DRIVE B to switch on my chargecooler pump. No matter what i save the starting RPM it keeps reverting back to 5000?

Same with the water spray. Am using this for my meth injection pump, it reverts back to 50% at 70FF no matter what i save it as.

We might need Simons advice on that - he is on holiday until next week.  I assume you are doing a store after making these changes?

 

16 hours ago, Chris Simms said:

Last prob im having is setting up the MAC 3 port controller. Have attached one wire from the mac solanoid to the W gate pin on the back of the ecu... and the other solanoid wire to the bodywork common grounding point. Should this other wire go to a 12v ignition instead of grounding it? Im using an external WG btw.

Yes, the ECU supplies the ground, so the other side of the valve needs to be wired to an ignition switched +12V source.

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Tried to get drive A/B to turn on/off again today. Even when say drive A is "off - on" its still coming on at tickover??? Switch off the ecu and the rpm setpoints just default back also still.

New problem today.... Running on 3 cyclinders..... Inj/cyclinder one is getting no fuel. Injector plugs deads (tested with a bulb) so thinking a break in the loom somewhere. The looms ancient. Gonna run a wire straight from the pin on the ecuto the injector. Does the other injector wire just ground straight to earth??

Many thanks helping me with all theses issues.

Chris

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On 4/24/2019 at 5:25 PM, Chris Simms said:

Am using DRIVE B to switch on my chargecooler pump. No matter what i save the starting RPM it keeps reverting back to 5000?

Same with the water spray. Am using this for my meth injection pump, it reverts back to 50% at 70FF no matter what i save it as.

I remembered to ask Simon about this today.  His only thoughts were possibly some early firmwares had this feature missing.  Can you pull the cover off and give us a photo of the sticker on the micro (hopefully there is one).  

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