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Usav8or

BMW E30 M20 Trigger setup

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There is no signal showing on trig 2.  What sensor did you get - the VR one or the hall one?  

Edit; actually just noticed the v/div is set to 20V, that is going to make it hard to see.  These normally get set to something appropriate when you hit the capture button but it doesnt look right in this case.  If you change the v/div to say 1V after capture does it then show anything?

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3 minutes ago, Adamw said:

There is no signal showing on trig 2.  What sensor did you get - the VR one or the hall one?

I think it was early in the day and before we got the timing sorted out. We were getting a better signal on it later. Is this the correct polarity?  Both are reluctor-type sensors. 

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37 minutes ago, Adamw said:

Edit; actually just noticed the v/div is set to 20V, that is going to make it hard to see.  These normally get set to something appropriate when you hit the capture button but it doesnt look right in this case.  If you change the v/div to say 1V after capture does it then show anything?

It does, I just don't have a picture of it. The guy who did the woring harmess and is more familliar with all of this showed me a picture/screenshot of it. 

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1 hour ago, Usav8or said:

Is this the correct polarity?  Both are reluctor-type sensors. 

Crank is but obviously cant tell you if the cam is or not.

 

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You must be trying to run full sequential set up on this m20? Just lurking , I have the same setup as you but also turbo . 

I went with MSPNP and I'm now doing research for a different ECU. 

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Ok, the coils work fine and the engine will run, but the base fuel table (fuel table 1) is off. I have independant throttle bodies so the load axis is set to TP (main) and it might run at a very low idle and eventually dies. If I change the load axis to MGP the engine starts and immediately revs up to the 3000 rpm rev limit protection threshold I setup. What part am I missing, I thought the program gathered all the engine parameters and gave you numbers you could start with???

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5 hours ago, Usav8or said:

What part am I missing, I thought the program gathered all the engine parameters and gave you numbers you could start with???

Your fuel table will still need correct numbers in it.  Attach your tune and I can possibly have a guess at a reasonable starting point.

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It's running! It's running rich, but it's running. Next is a session with the professional tuner via the internet, then in person at the dyno. I've attached a couple of pictures from the trigger scope for you review.

Thank you,

Jeff

Trigger pic 2a.jpg

Trigger pic 2.jpg

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Yep looks ok.  The cam tooth is pretty close to the missing tooth area on the crank which is not ideal so since it looks like you have some adjustment in that cam trigger set-up I would suggest rotating that tooth clockwise on the cam wheel if you can.

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Thanks, I was thinking it was a little close too. When running it up o temperature we discovered the new cam seal was leaking on my new engine so we'll be sure make that adjustment during reassembly. We're scheduled with the tuner at the dyno in a couple weeks so I'll post an update then.

Thanks for all your help. I'm impressed with the product and support.

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On 3/21/2019 at 7:24 AM, Usav8or said:

Thanks, I was thinking it was a little close too. When running it up o temperature we discovered the new cam seal was leaking on my new engine so we'll be sure make that adjustment during reassembly. We're scheduled with the tuner at the dyno in a couple weeks so I'll post an update then.

Thanks for all your help. I'm impressed with the product and support.

These are not the best shots, but hopefully they'll do. The plan is to do a remote tune and then get to the dyno the next time the tuner is in town. If you have any other suggestions based on this info please let me know. 

 

Thanks again,

 

Jeff

trigger 4-2.jpg

trigger 4-3.jpg

 

Edited by Usav8or

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Trigger looks good now.  In the log your MAP is very erratic, bouncing between about 57 & 80 at constant RPM.  That suggests something is wrong there. 

4T3VETF.png

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Could that be caused by the ITB setup that has still to be dialed in/balanced? The MAP sensor is the Link brand 2.5 bar model. Since there wasn't a Link 2.5 Bar listed in the PCLink software I selected the non-branded 2.5 BAR option. Should I use a differect option?

 

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Yep most likely.  So how is the MAP connected - does it go to some manifold with a vacuum hose to each throttle or is it just connected to a single cylinder?

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1 minute ago, Adamw said:

Yep most likely.  So how is the MAP connected - does it go to some manifold with a vacuum hose to each throttle or is it just connected to a single cylinder?

Good question, I believe its connected to a vacuum manifold block, but I'm not sure. 

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If it connects to each cylinder then that usually works well - it will just be the balance/sync making it look ugly. 

If it is only connected to a single cylinder then it is never going to work well - if this is the case change the fuel load source to BAP so that the erratic MAP doesnt effect the fueling.

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On 4/1/2019 at 10:05 PM, Adamw said:

If it connects to each cylinder then that usually works well - it will just be the balance/sync making it look ugly. 

If it is only connected to a single cylinder then it is never going to work well - if this is the case change the fuel load source to BAP so that the erratic MAP doesnt effect the fueling.

I may be mistaken. Looking at RHD Engineering's instructions it looks like the vacuum line runs from the #3 cylinder throttle body then T's off to the MAP sensor and the vacuum block. I'll check with my mechanic tomorrow to confirm that's how he set it up.

 

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Ok, the MAP has been replaced with the BAP and put a one-way check valve on the MAP sensor hose. The ITB's have been balanced and the idle adjusted so it runs pretty well given that we haven't done a tune on it yet. The new problem we've encountered since these adjustments is it's harder to start and has a tendency to hydrolock after shutting it down. Any idea why?  I'd attach a log file, but it's too big apparently.

Thanks,

Jeff

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4 hours ago, Usav8or said:

and put a one-way check valve on the MAP sensor hose.

Huh?  What is the idea here?  

 

4 hours ago, Usav8or said:

I'd attach a log file, but it's too big apparently.

Storage costs money so we only give every user a small allowance.  Use a file share website or online drive to share it.  Most PC's have onedrive built-in now so I find that convieient, but anything like dropbox, google drive, icloud etc will allow you to share files.

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