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  1. dx4picco

    Fuel Cut Anti-Lag

    aren't you mixing antilag and launch control? antilag is made to spool the turbo when being off throttle, with letting air pass combined with a late combustion to make more exhaust gas energy spooling the turbo. there would be no point doing a fuel cut in this strategy
    3 points
  2. Leave overrun fuel cut off but setup a gp rpm limit as shown here, it should act pretty much the same as the overrun fuel cut shown but won't cut when CAN DI 1 is active.
    2 points
  3. So i finally figured it out, i can now destroy exhaust valves whenever i please. I have a stock 1uz in my SC400 with the IAC removed and just idling with the throttle stop screw around 950rpm, anything below that and it won't idle during cold starts. For the last week i've been trying to get some flames to come out the exhaust, which it used to do on the stock ECU. I'm running a monsoonx btw. After messing around with the fuel values i finally got consistent flames that i can control and they don't just happen all the time. Obviously fuel cut on Decel is OFF. My timing from 3500-6500rpm is -5 VE table from 3500-6500rpm is 75 which gives me a lambda of around 0.8-0.85. anything more rich than that and nothing happens. now here's the best part, it only does it when i give it 3% throttle on Decel. if i close the throttle entirely nothing happens at all, which is great i think so it's not constantly just a flame thrower out the back. now i wanna figure out how to get my ECUmaster CAN keyboard to turn Fuel Cut on Decel on and off, cz holy crap i'm just dumping gas out. i know this won't work for everyone, but if you're dumb like me here's some base values to start messing around with.
    2 points
  4. Hi, Is there a reason the Digital Gauges are "disabled" during log playback and are only functional during live PC Connection? Or is there a setting available to turn them on permanently? I noticed this testing the Haltech ESP software - any configured "Digital Gauges" are live both during PC Connection/Vehicle Running and Log Playback. As an example - it would make troubleshooting easier watching the Digital MAP Limit gauge *flash* as it does when vehicle is live, rather than trying to pick out "MAP Limit (psi)" vs "MAP Limit" from the parameter list and looking for a line "step" indication in a 60min log file. Currently a whole page of Digital Gauges can be added - but these are immediately redundant once you disconnect from the ECU. Thanks
    1 point
  5. Nup, it is still showing missing teeth on trigger 1. Batt voltage is still much lower than normal in the log (still drops to 5V at the start of cranking) but even after it recovers to about 10V after a couple of seconds there is no RPM signal so trigger is still not happy. Im not really sure what to suggest next. The electronic hardware that records the triggerscope is separate to the ECU micro which also shows the same thing. So we have two pieces of electronic hardware that are showing us there is a problem with the trigger signal so I think it is likely they are not telling us lies. I would normally suggest it was likely the CAS at this stage but since you have already swapped that it is hard to imagine you would have 2 duds. To take the starter motor load out of the equation, what happens if you pull the CAS out and spin it by hand or with a cordless drill or similar? Do we then get RPM?
    1 point
  6. Adamw

    Inconsistent IAT

    The normal error high setting is 4.95V and error low 0.05V for a temp sensor, suggest you use these to allow the widest operating range while retaining fault detection.
    1 point
  7. Adamw

    Cold Start AFR Help

    The rich problem is due to battery voltage. In the log below the pink traces are a good start and the coloured traces are the rich cold start. You can see where the cursor is the effective PW is about the same, but the Actual PW is very different, this is because the battery voltage is showing 10.89V Vs 13.96V so a longer deadtime is being added. I dont think this battery voltage is real due to how it is such a sharp step when it jumps back to normal. Looking through your tune you have pretty much used every table so Im suspicious you may possibly be running into some processing limitation. I would first try updating to the latest firmware. If that doesnt solve it I would then try temporarily turning those 6 ign trim tables that are doing nothing.
    1 point
  8. Adamw

    Haltech ic7

    Correct, the displaylink stream is the same as the generic dash stream. Oil pressure is transmitted as well as fault codes, but I dont know if the IC7 allows you to set up warnings based on those.
    1 point
  9. This sounds like the parameter config file is corrupted. This is stored in two places. Lets try the easy fix first. With PC Link closed, Type this into the windows search bar and hit enter: %AppData% That should take you to the roaming folder. Find the PCLink folder in there and delete the two files that are in there - should be "DefaultParameterConfig & Options2". Open PC Link again and these files will be recreated. See if that solves your scaling/colour problem. If not I will give you a new master copy.
    1 point
  10. Hello, i have Subaru plug in G4X with Link CAN Lambda can you help me for setting correctly Lambda Closed loop. For correct setting of "Gain Control Table" and "Update Rate TAble" Thanks in advance for your help Ludovic
    1 point
  11. Adamw

    ECU Temp 302 F

    Ok, you have caught it properly in this log. As I suspected your 5V output is shorted out. You can see below (yellow trace) it is bouncing between 0 & 2.2V, this means no 5V sensors are reading correctly. It should normally be 4.98-5.02V if everything is good. Most commonly in my experience this short is failing sensor - usually a pressure sensor. To diagnose, put the 5V Out parameter on a large gauge similar to below on one of your screens, next time the fault occurs, set up the laptop somewhere you can see it from the engine bay and go around and unplug the 5V sensors one at a time. If the 5V gauge suddenly pops back up to a stable 5V when you unplug a sensor you have found the culprit.
    1 point
  12. It needs to be connected to one of the CAN ports. A CANJST cable and possibly the extension is the easiest option, or you can make your own if you have a crimp tool for JST and DTM connectors. Set-up instructions are in the help file page: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information > Link CAN-Lambda. https://dealers.linkecu.com/ADA_2 https://dealers.linkecu.com/ADA_7
    1 point
  13. You have a major trigger error that needs to be fixed first, the RPM drops to zero quite regular. So give us a trigger scope at idle as well. As for the fuel, why is the lambda at 0.76 when the target is 1.0?
    1 point
  14. mldc

    Fuel Cut Anti-Lag

    I think maybe on Launch Control is useful to have IgnCut+FuelCut strategy. Maybe it would help to raise a little bit of boost and then control the RPM range very precise without huge backfires. ALS is overrun boost control. Throttle closed, boost is maintained. I've recently tuned Rallycross Supercar, Cosworth YB with G4+ Thunder. There is a fresh air ALS valve (Turbosmart ALV), which directly pushes air from intercooler pipe to the exhaust manifold. I've tried without ignition cut and also removed some fuel. No response from ALS was shown. After that I've added ignition cut and also lots of additional fuel. Of throttle boost maintained static what I wanted, and EGT dropped to 700-800C during ALS Extra fuel cools down the overall ALS system. If You have really huge exhaust temperature then lower Your ignition retard. This parameter rises stress on exhaust valves.
    1 point
  15. I’m not at a pc right now, but assuming you have aux 5-8 free and the software allows you to set e-throttle relay output up as highside drive then it will be fine. No risk of back feed with HS.
    1 point
  16. Yes that would suggest there is an issue with your fuel pressure calibration or perhaps the regulator. VE numbers will not always increase with boost, once you are at WOT they will usually stay much the same regardless of boost, but generally you will have the largest VE numbers around peak torque 100-110% around say 5000RPM.
    1 point
  17. MAP with engine off and BAP will vary from day to day with the weather and tides etc. As long as it always matches BAP with key on, engine off it is normal.
    1 point
  18. Huh? Im not sure how to debunk a lacquered ecu that has been unlaid.
    1 point
  19. Hello, While setting up normalized knock control I started by checking a few steady state areas to see how the system behaved. I noticed that when holding the engine at 2k rpm at full load (~112kpa) the Knock Load Status changed to "Changing Load" and remained there until I removed load. During this time it applied my Load Delta Threshold Gain, even though the MAP Delta Level had not been met... I'm not sure that this is intended operation? Can someone confirm? These are my relevant settings: PC Datalog - 2021-09-9 5;39;10 pm_KnockSetupNormalized_LoadStatusinBoost.llgx
    1 point
  20. Awesome! Thank you for your help!
    1 point
  21. @Eric S I will send you a PM with a link for a fix to try.
    1 point
  22. Bethanyc

    ALS e-throttle map

    @Vaughan confirmed all good and fixed, bleeding air nicely i am still not happy with my throttle PID, too low P and a little laggy, to high and too much bounce.... i know i am being picky, i might send my spare new throttle across the ditch to see if Link team can get the optimal settings for these 60mm mitsubishi throttle bodies.
    1 point
  23. They do appear to have identical trigger patterns, working through finding the source of your problem atm.
    1 point
  24. Rozsko

    Next firmware release

    Anyone keen on the new version, it is available for download since yesterday.
    1 point
  25. Maybe one of your rotary switch profiles could be "unlimited" - so once launch is out of the way you move the switch to the unlimited position.
    1 point
  26. It would be best to attach your tune and a log of the limit happening. I would say at a guess that oil pressure limit on GP limit 1 looks a bit optimistic for some engines, 300kpa @ 2500RPM... Not really sure what you are asking here, but it would be unusual to have a min eff PW of 1ms. 0.4-0.6ms would be more typical values. With a min PW of 1ms you will likely never be able to achieve your desired air fuel ratio at idle.
    1 point
  27. Adamw

    Subaru frogeye Wrx plugin

    The VVT will generally control quite well with our default settings. There are exceptions such as if it is running oil of different viscosity than the factory specification. However, you dont need a dyno to tune the VVT PID if it does need work, I usually have good success just sitting there at fast idle and doing step tests to cam position. There will be lots of features missing from the G4 compared to the newer ECU's but most of the main tuning functionality is similar. Lots less user tables, less options for limiters, auxes, more basic idle control etc. Probably no knock control depending what ecu it is.
    1 point
  28. Adamw

    CAN BUS Wiring

    Yep, the gauge has a terminator that can be enabled or not using a jumper on the back (enabled by default). The 20awg wire from the expansion harness will be fine.
    1 point
  29. Adamw

    1uzfe info please.

    Assuming it is a cable operated throttle I would suggest the StormX. It has 8 injector and 8 ign drives so can do sequential/direct spark, has enough IO to do everything you need and has most common motorsport functions enabled. If you wanted a little more functionality in reserve for future upgrades the XtremeX would give you the ability to add E-throttle later + more advanced software functions such as traction control and cruise control.
    1 point
  30. 0 to 20 kPa MAP = ignition timing to -20 to -15 BTDC.
    1 point
  31. Found and fixed, will be in the next release.
    1 point
  32. thanks Vaughan. understood.
    1 point
  33. 1 point
  34. Adamw

    Link CAN Lambda

    Yes that should be fine.
    1 point
  35. Adamw

    Fuel line pressure testing

    Go to Aux Outputs>fuel pump control and set whichever aux is assigned test to ON.
    1 point
  36. I think it is probably the 20 character limit that is causing it to fail. Although your formula only has 20 characters and the help file reads like it should work with "up to 20 characters", it seems like 19 works, 20 doesnt to me. Im not sure if that limit is just poorly worded or if there is an error in the firmware. Ill ask @Vaughan to confirm next week.
    1 point
  37. The ecu will have no trouble running the non-vanos engine, but as you have found the pinout is very different. The connectors are quite difficult to re-pin on those without damage if you havent done it before.
    1 point
  38. Adamw

    relay to drive the starter

    Yes, that should work.
    1 point
  39. Adamw

    Link G4X wrx6x AVCS help

    Yes orange and red could be connected together to the same source. The only 12V source at the ecu is B136-8 & B136-9.
    1 point
  40. Realdash updated the app and the analyzer works on android now!
    1 point
  41. This seems to be a long waited feature. Any actual plans to incorporate this into a new release? +1 from me along with some more log manipulation functions like "save as" only a section of the log. (marked in the log markers or only displayed on the screen) cut out/delete a section of a log and save it like that (to remove transient sections maybe, so mixture map could be used a little more targeted) easier retrospective log marker or log section creation. shortcut key B does not place a marker in the log if it is used during log playback. Maybe make the log marker window not a popup, rather an individual section like ECU Settings, Log manager, event log and parameters. This would help creating markers and sections much easier when pinned to the left of the screen as it would allow navigating through the log file and creating markers in two clicks pretty much. customizable number of entries (maybe with a sampling rate as well) to use in Mixture map to calculate the actual lambda as right now it is only the first 1000 data points that are used which is not too useful for long duration logs like cold start and warm up
    1 point
  42. tbase

    Gear Shift Cut Period

    @adamw Pls take a look if anything I can tweak to make gearshift better? - Just wondering about the Cut time period, I put 100ms is it ok? - The more higher gear the more fast shift period time, is it normal like this? Any thing I can make lower gear faster?
    1 point
  43. Yes the throttle will take care of idle well, you can get rid of the stepper. Note you will need the external E-throttle module or the ecu will need to be modified for E-throttle.
    1 point
  44. FunJam

    Electric wastegate control

    Hello! Has anyone found a way to control Turbosmart electronic wastegate via Fuel Tech power driver? This time in Vipec i88, but also future in 4G+ . I would need control in 3D map RPM versus gear like it would be in normal solenoid controlled system, but electric wastegate works more like a electric throttle. So some kind of closed loop control would be needed? Jani
    1 point
  45. can't remember if the i88 supports dual E-Throttle but you might be able to use the 2nd E-Throttle controller to control the wastegate and instead of APS on the axis you could put the wastegate Duty cycle, this would theoretically take the output of the boost control function and translate it directly into wastegate position. I know that we do plan to do something for electronically controlled wastegates in G4X.
    1 point
  46. I had found this thread, and there didn't seem to be a conclusion. Hence the months later bump... I've been trying to set up alternator control on my NB2 miata with G4X fury. These are the results of a brief test, still a lot of fiddling to do, but the strategy seems to be on the right track. Definitely better than the bang-bang setup I had before. I'll update this later once I figure out better gains The PWM frequency is 250Hz constant, not sure if that is appropriate. Given that the math blocks run at 1kHz, averaging the error across some integer multiple of 4ms seems to be a good idea (still need to play with how many averages works best). I used a 'dt' function, instead of the simple 'current - previous' derivative calc proposed above I used some different axis breakpoints in the GP PWM table, to normalize the gains in math block 4 - they wouldn't fit otherwise. I think I can also move the "+4" term in math block 4 into the GP PWM table, to claim some more character space back.
    1 point
  47. SimonSTI

    Normalised knock

    Is there some documentation on that new feature with some guideline on how to set it up? I've read the updated help file and look at all the table, but still not 100% clear to me how to set it up properly. Do you have to setup the knock threshold table when using this mode?
    1 point
  48. Hi, I have the MINILINK G4+ in my 2005 Mini Cooper S. It has the standard A/C module rather than the optional climate control system. I'm having an issue with the AC Clutch Compressor disconnecting early. The values for the High Pressure lockout is at the default 3000 kpa, but the AC Clutch deactivates consistently at ~1500 kpa. If I set the AC Clutch Control to Basic rather than Full, then the AC compressor behavior is consistent, but my concern is that it may end up over pressurizing the compressor if I keep it on Basic. I've attempted to lower the High Pressure lockout to 1900 kpa but the system still consistently deactivates at ~1500 kpa.
    1 point
  49. Hey guys, recently converted my car to e85 and took it to get tuned. The tuner said the MAP sensor i bought (OMNI 4Bar, part: map-sti15-4br) would only calibrate as a 3 bar. Now i told the company i bought it off about the issue and they sent me a new one claiming it was from a different batch so very unlikely to also be faulty. I also replaced the plug to the map sensor because the ground seemed to be missing a couple strands and then tried to calibrate the map sensor with the settings provided by omni (.6V = 30kpa / 4.75v = 400kpa). The calibration was completed and it was reading 14.6psi MAP, however when i start my car and it is idling the MAP reads 7psi vacuum and my boost gauge reads about 14psi vacuum which seems to me like the calibration must be out? I then tested the output voltage from both new and old sensors, keep in mind they are the exact same sensor and one was giving me 1.376V and the other 1.4V. Is it normal for MAP sensors to be this different even though they are the exact same part? I will try to contact OMNI to see if they know what the deal is, however i was hoping someone here could offer me some guidance in the meantime. Cheers.
    1 point
  50. Not to take anything away from you post, I love to see these ideas coming through - but Im just mentioning this in case you werent already aware of the "quick trim" function that has been around since the G4, it will do this same basic calculation and apply the result to the fuel table for you (you still need to manually type in the measured value though). If you have a log open and the fuel map on the same page, click on the cell in the fuel map that you want to adjust, then hit the M key, it will grab the target lambda from the lambda target table, you enter the measured lambda from the log and it will apply the correction to that cell for you.
    1 point
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