Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/24/2021 in all areas

  1. My primary role at Link is engineering and I prefer to keep distractions from my primary work to a minimum, so for this reason most of the help I give here on the forum is done in my own time outside of work hours. Im always happy to help fellow Link users and dealers with Link ECU's and also help with interfacing Link ECU's with 3rd party devices when I have the correct information or experience to offer. However, it is not really my job to completely configure a 3rd party PDM device for you, Im happy to help configure the Link ECU side (which is already done) and can help with sending the keypad buttons to the ecu once you have everything else in the PDM configured and working - that means all inputs and outputs fully assigned and all logic programed so that I can get a feel for what finally needs sending over CAN. Usually there is very little sent from the PDM to the ECU - maybe a buton or two. There are two other user's PDM32 config files attached earlier in this thread that you maybe able to look at for guidance to see how things are done, but if you need help setting up the core PDM functionality your first line of support should be from the Aim dealer that sold it to you, it is part of their contract to support you and they are meant to have the training and knowledge. I have absolutely zero realife experience with the Aim PDM's so for most questions you ask I need to spend time researching or testing it myself in their software, it is not efficient for me to support you like that. For clarity, just in case my wording above comes across rude, Im not upset or trying to discourage you, Im still willing to help you here on the forum however I can when you need it and I still want to see you get to the end of the project with a satisfactory result, just I cant be spending my nights on teamviewer doing the hard work for you...
    2 points
  2. Confused

    Help

    All Link products should include a USB cable in the box. Your first port of call should be the dealer you bought it from if this is missing - this may just be an oversight on their part. As for Owners Manual - once you've downloaded and installed the free PC Link G4X software to your laptop, you have access to one of the best manuals I have ever seen from any software application in my 25 years in the IT industry, right there within the application, that dynamically changes the current page based upon what you've got selected on screen. Link do provide a number of "start up" configuration files, which have the basics pre-configured for a selection of engines, but you haven't purchased an off-the-shelf tune for your engine. You have purchased a fully programable aftermarket ECU, which can be made to work with almost every single combination of engine, sensors and modifications. You will need to get it correctly configured and tuned - if you are not capable of doing this yourself, then you will need to take it to a professional tuner, and pay them for their time, expertise, and use of their very expensive tuning equipment (such as a rolling road and accurate air/fuelling ratio sensors).
    2 points
  3. Bit number zero is usually the least significant bit (right hand end of the byte, bit number 7 is the left hand end. From wikipedia:
    1 point
  4. Another option is this: https://www.micropdm.com/products/p/micropdm This connects to the Blink keypad and handles all the logic such as toggle/flash/count and the LED's etc. All the button "outputs" can be sent to the ECU via CAN as well as some of the pins on the relay can be controlled by the buttons too.
    1 point
  5. You can look into the ecu master can switch board. I wired that in with 6 switches and 2 rotaries It works great. All with can
    1 point
  6. Ok, trigger wise everything looks good. There are a few things that jump out in the tune as not ideal, but none that I would expect to make a big difference to the peak power achieved. More so stuff that will cause day to day variation of lambda. Some comments in no particular order: Fuel equation load source is set to MAP, but there is no MAP sensor fitted. It should be set to BAP in this case so changes in baro are taken care of. Injector Short Pulse Width adder has some pretty large values considering it has small injectors. At 0.75ms it is removing 0.24ms which is like 30% of the fuel. Doesnt seem right. This should be zeroed out unless someone has especially characterised these injectors. IAT fuel trim is still active, this would normally be turned off when using modelled mode as it is already compensated for by the charge temp approximation. Accel cold correction table is all zeros so accel enrichment wont work at all. This will likely cause lean patches and flatspots whenever you move the throttle. Charge temp approximation table has MGP on the load axis but since there is no MAP sensor this wont work. This should really use TP in this case. Injector timing looks very odd, not saying it is wrong, but usually 350-400 is more what I expect to see for an engine with injectors close to the intake valves. Ignition timing looks quite soft, especally at low loads. I cant say this with confidence since I havent tuned a beams 3S, but on the Gen 2 & 3 3S engines I would usually have 40-45deg in there at cruise and prob 35 up to half throttle or so. Even the WOT row looks a bit softer than I expect. I dont know your fuel or compression etc so dont take this as gospel but my feeling is there is a lot of mid range torque and drivability missing due to this. Possibly a little at WOT. Knock control set-up doesnt look correct at all, with a gain of 30, and low thresholds. Higher thresholds at 2000RPM than 4000 seems odd. So this could potentially be pulling timing out often - no sign in the short log but it is definately a long way off expected settings so I would probably disable it for now. Suspect the wiring is no good or the sensor is dead. Intake VVT looks to be working ok in the log but throttle wasnt opened ennough to confirm Exhaust VVt is working. Again I dont have any hands on experience with the beams, but the exhaust VVT targets look a bit odd with no retard until 50% throttle. With some engines the exhaust makes bugger all difference so this could be the case here, but it just seems a bit odd is all. Idle ignition control is not working because the MAP lockout is set to 50kpa but you dont have a MAP sensor. So setting this up correctly will make it nicer to drive. For ITB's I would also usually set the Ignition idle target much lower and open throttles more so it has enough air to idle by itself during cold start. Your flywheel supply voltage is very low in the log (should normally be close to batt voltage) - this is internal in the Xtreme so Im not sure what would cause that or if it is a problem, but I will ask one of the engineers tomorrow if it is anything to be worried about. Firmware is very old. No show stopper bugs that I remember, but there have been a lot of improvements and bug fixes since 6.16 so definately update before tuning further.
    1 point
  7. Sweet I'll give that a go and report back here to confirm I got it as part of a package and the dash was more of a bonus that I'll sell at some point. Mates going to test it in his car I've ordered a GaugeArt Can Gauge
    1 point
  8. A customers Stagea w/ LinkG4X fury has done exactly this a handful of times so far. Key switched to ON, no pump prime, and if you try to crank it over wont start. Switch to OFF, back to ON, no issue at all starting. Absolutely random.
    1 point
  9. Something new?
    1 point
  10. Further update to this topic. After a few very frustrating days trying to figure out what was going on I think I finally have this sorted. I have found out that the cheap sensor I purchased was rubbish, the armature that spins inside was not captured in the housing properly and was allowed to move in and out, this made the readings from the sensor very erratic. The magnets were also very weak, so I think that was why I got more erratic readings when using another hall sensor temporarily taped to the side. I have done some ' modifications' to the sensor, including drilling holes in the armature and fitting some new magnets, replacing the bushings with bearings, including thrust bearings and gutting the electronics and replacing them with a new barrel type hall sensor. Now the Vss sensor works fine, although there isnt much of the original sensor left. What I have learned from this is the sensor has to be exactly in the right place relative to the armature, or the speed reading gets very erratic. Literally a fraction of a mm can be the difference between success or failure. I used epoxy to lock the sensor in place when I managed to get a good reading. Hopefully road testing shows good results, however, rain and no roof is stopping that happening. Maybe this will be helpful for someone else.
    1 point
  11. Change the blue cells to something like this
    1 point
  12. Adamw

    Downshift Auto-blip

    For the blip in a road car application you are best to use a 2nd throttle target table so you can command a different amout of blip based on RPM or speed or both - so you get a less agressive blip (or non blip) when driving slow. The gear shift function only gives you the ability to vary blip with gear pos. Activate the 2nd E-throttle table using a GP output based on clutch and brake status or whatever else you want to lockout. Something like below.
    1 point
  13. Your wideband is pegged on full rich so the closed loop lambda is pulling 15% fuel out so it will likely be running quite lean. I would suggest turning off closed loop lambda while the sensor is not working. The other thing that looks a bit out of place is the ignition dwell is around 6ms at cruise so your coils or ignitors are possibly over heating after extended cruising. There are no cuts being commanded by the ecu so more likely a misfire. A working wideband may give you better info to help diagnose. There arent any obvious signs of wiring issues in the log.
    1 point
  14. If you put a 100-200ohm resistor between the signal wire and ground that should drop your max voltage down to around 4-4.5V.
    1 point
  15. Adamw

    Evo 8 3 plug

    Use the Evo IX map, (ecu should already have this loaded), you can turn off VVT, Aux 2 and DI 1 if you wish but you dont specifically need to, it will still run with those settngs there. Ign 7 may also control one of the fans so try it in test mode to confirm.
    1 point
  16. Adamw

    Bosch 980cc Deadtimes

    Go to injector set-up, set the deadtime table to 3D, then you can change the axis breakpoints to match your data.
    1 point
  17. Adamw

    Ignition cut trigger

    The ignition cut is for "Driven upshift". Your CAN aux 7 goes active and all upshift lockouts are met, so you have an upshift event.
    1 point
  18. Yes, you will need to use the same trick with G4+, or change to a two wire idle valve.
    1 point
  19. The trigger decoder is designed to use the LH intake cam for trig 2, but either intake will work. Just the default zero offset will be out if you use the RH.
    1 point
  20. If I'm not mistaken, yes that is the case All 4 cams position sensors go on DI's (for vvt) and trigger 2 goes onto left intake Cam pulley
    1 point
  21. Update to this topic: I remembered that I had another miniature hall sensor, so i taped it to the side of the vss sensor housing, wired it up and managed to get a reading. The erratic behavior continued. So I have come to the conclusion that it is most likely the angle drive or the internal gear output etc I have now set up a math block that has smoothed the output for the sensor. Hopefully it is stable enough. The averaging works well. For anyone else wanting to smooth their wheel speeds, this is how I did it: 1. Set up a di for all your different speed sources. 2. Set up a math channel for the wheel you want to average, with the di you selected for that wheel as the first parameter (a). Equation = av(a,0.1) 3. Set up a gp speed input(s) for the front or rear wheels (or both), with the math channel you created above as the input. (two inputs needed if smoothing both driven and driving wheel speeds.) 4. Select the gp speed source you created above as your driven or driving wheel speed source. You can get more of less averaging by increasing the value in the math equation. Just remember averaging causes a delay in value creation, so use the smallest value that gives adequate results.
    1 point
  22. Cemicks

    BMW S54 VVT Issue

    Just an update. Car is fully dyno tuned now. I found a top notch ViPec tuner here in the states also intimate with BMW S54. Two days of calibration and dyno tuning. Now have oil pressure, oil temp, fuel pressure all added to the ECU. I then provided 20 minutes of track logs and we adjusted active fuel map and overrun fuel cut to reduce some mid range richness and popping when I went full throttle to no throttle. I head to another track this week and will provide one more log to see if any more adjusting is warranted. Can’t thank this support forum (Adam) enough for helping me out this past winter figuring out VVT issues. I’m sure I’ll be back but for now. Time to drive b
    1 point
  23. Adamw

    Jess

    No one can really tell you what settings it had in there before or what it needs to run right, this is all stuff you adjust when you tune it. If it doesnt run you could try a "reload" which will put it all back to the default settings that it shipped with, but if it already runs you would be better to just get it tuned.
    1 point
  24. Adamw

    PC link

    Hold down the Shift Key while mouse clicking on the fuel table in the ECU settings menu (or keybopard "Shift +F") , it will open a new fuel table, you can then change one table to surface view mode by clicking "K" on the keyboard. Sorry this video is in english but may help: https://youtu.be/Eo9zBcIkacs
    1 point
  25. Adamw

    WGC34 Stagea NGTTX Install

    I would do IAT to AN Temp 3, you dont need fuel temp as the flex sensor already gives you fuel temp. Flex sensor need to be connected to a DI. Suggest DI5. Oil & Fuel press and oil temp is fine as you have them. Dont connect fuel temp. Boost valve needs to be connected to an Aux output. Use Aux 7 which was originally the narrowband heater or possibly Aux 5. Boost switch, DI6 is fine. Launch and flat shift is up to you. Launch you dont really need a switch depending on how you want it to work, you can often just switch it on based on speed. Flat shift will need a clutch switch, you can use one of the ones on the other exp connector or possibly DI2 start signal is not that important (only used for precrank prime but you can change it to just "key on"). Many dashes have an option in their software to enable an internal terminination resistor so check that befor adding one. In this case you want the device with the resistor at the far end of the bus so you would go ECU>Lambda>dash.
    1 point
  26. Electricity needs to flow in both directions through that main wire. Everytime an inductive device such as a solenoid or relay is switched off it sends a large voltage spike back into the ECU - these can be quite large ~100V or more. So when correctly wired these spikes are passed back to the battery through the ECU power supply wire. If you had a diode in this wire the voltage would have nowhere to go which makes the valves/solenoids/injectors very slow to colapse as well as high voltage potentially damaging electronics. It will likely be to do with the inductance and mechanical design. When you cut voltage to a relay it doesnt just intsantly switch off. You can look up inductance on wiki or similar for a more accurate description, but basically inductance makes a device resist any changes in current flow - so when you remove the voltage source an inductive device will try to keep the current flowing the same by generating its own voltage using the energy stored in its magnetic field. The relay will stay closed until there is not enough stored magnetic field left to hold the contacts closed. We did discuss that diagram from the aux output wiring page a while ago at Link internally and chaged it a little to reduce the chance of this happening but for some reason it looks like the updated one never actually made it into the help file. It may be my fault because I remember saying I was going to test it before comitting. I will follow that up.
    1 point
  27. koracing

    over sized injectors

    As I said it's a bit of a balancing act. You can also play with advance and retard at idle to change the fueling requirement to increase or decrease require PW. Also as rpm rises, the duty cycle for a given PW also increases which means less likelihood of overrunning a regulator and so potentially lower differential pressure versus idle and thus possibly requiring more PW. Changing idle speed from 800rpm to 1200 rpm is a 50% increase in injection events per given unit of time. Figuring out what the minimum stable pulse width an injector can run can help as well so one can enter it into the minimum pw field in the fuel setup and not allow the injector to go into a range where the injector would operate randomly (aka "go random"). All trade offs and there's a threshold of what does and does not work for a given injector and driver type.
    1 point
  28. I think what is probably happening is the sub relay is slower to open than the main relay, so you end up with the main ecu power disappearing, but if the sub relay is still closed the 12v will flow through the solenoids, into the aux, through the internal flywheel diode and exit the ECU 14V pin which is connected to the sub relay pin 86 and keeps it energised. The quickest fix I see would be moving the sub relay pin 86 to the ign switch.
    1 point
  29. Adamw

    Rb30 g4x knock system

    You can only run one with that ecu as there is only one knock pin.
    1 point
  30. Adamw

    Can lambda

    CAN wiring something like below. Sorry for the amature ms paint work. Obviously you will need to supply Ign switched +12V and ground to both as well.
    1 point
  31. Issue found to be a broken wire in the back of the Toucan display plug. Despite the screen saying it wasn't immobilised, the wire that would switch this was the one that had broken off the plug pin
    1 point
  32. 91 SW20 MR2 w/ 92k miles on chassis EFI System: -Link G4+ Thunder -1zz COP direct spark -5s 36-2 crank sensor and trigger -Gen 2 3s distributor used for cam sync -BM 2-wire knock sensor -GM 4bar MAP sensor -GM Flex Fuel sensor (modeled fuel mode, dual fuel mapping from E10-E80) Engine: -2.0L forged Gen 2 3sgte block maintaining factory compression -Gen 2 3sgte head with Engle valve springs and GSC S1 (268) cams, adjustable cam gears (E:7deg retard, I:0deg) -Modified ATS straight runner intake manifold -Custom intercooler system utilizing a CSF A2W core -Custom exhaust manifold and downpipe with recirculated Tial MVR 48mm EWG, XonaRotor XR7164 turbo with 0.82 v-banded hotside -3” Berk dual exhaust -ID1700xds injectors supplied with a Walbro 450lph pump -Custom air cooled oil cooler system with Setrab cooler and Mocal oil thermostat, relocated oil filter -IAG universal AOS with three -10 crank case breathers Transmission: -Stock E153 w/ factory LSD -Clutch Masters 725 series twin disk w/ steel flywheel -Drive Shaft Shop axles Car made 495whp/385wft-lbs on a Mustang Dyno on a 95degF day and 70% humidity and a heat soaked IC system (120F IC water temp) because the heat exchangers were being starved of airflow. Boost pressure was on 20psi tapering to 23psi at redline and fuel was E79. It had a lot more steam in it, but I stopped where I did because I didn’t want to exceed 350ftlbs-lbs around natural peak torque and 380ftlbs-lbs closer to redline because it is a 3sgte block prone to fatigue cracking on the cylinder walls. Plan is to run it like this until I build a 5s block with a partial block fill. This car is more wired than a new BMW and the Link ecu is the nervous center for it and handles everything I throw at it. All auxiliary systems that have to do with motor function are controlled by the ecu and I have more sensors on the car than are probably necessary. The IC system alone has 5 temps sensors, one water flow sensor and one level sensor in the reservoir just to give you an idea haha. But I love data and since the Link has access to all of it, I can change how each system functions just by a simple software change.
    1 point
  33. Lambda source, RPM, Lambda target, both axes parameters for the lambda target table and both axes parameters for the main fuel table.
    1 point
  34. In your ECU config I would turn off the generic dash stream and all the user streams as a start, just use the MXS stream. Do you have any live data showing on the dash if you do this?
    1 point
  35. If you only have the stock speed sensor then you should set both driven and non-driven speed sources to LF. Its normallly set to LR in our GTR base map since it more closely resembles a rear wheel speed - but that doesnt really matter. Launch activation should not be set to DI3 as it is going to constantly cycle between on & off.
    1 point
  36. Looking for a little insight. I am about to start road tuning my car after swapping to modeled fuel. My question is... Does the mixture map use the CLL correction as part of its calculation, or only the resultant corrected AFR. ie, if I go for a drive with CLL active, will the mixture map take this into account, or should mixture map logging only be done with CLL disabled? With a VE table that could be quite incorrect, are you better to do some basic tuning with CLL on, and manually go through the logs looking for the large CLL corrections first, then turn it off and use the mixture map when you are closer to the ball park. Any advice appreciated. Tim
    1 point
  37. koracing

    Locked aux tab

    To assign the Aux 1 to boost control in G4x - you will first need to enable boost control (open or closed loop) and then assign the output in that menu. In the G4x you don't assign outputs at the pin itself. For example:
    1 point
  38. Yes, if you pull that E12-92 box off the side of your distributor there will be two wires that connect from that to the reluctor pick-up inside the distributor. Google pics show a red and green wire, I cant find any info on polarity but conventional logic would suggest red is the +ve and green is the -ve. Connect the red direct to trigger 1 on the ECU and the green to sensor ground. Connect the ECU ign 1 output to the IB pin on the J121. Other 2 pins as per pic below.
    1 point
  39. It looks to me like that module is not designed for ECU control at all. The B & C pins are the coil connections, the I & W connections are for an idle switch and thermo switch, probably adds a fixed amount of advance under certain conditions. You could probably get rid of that module, connect the intenal pickup direct to the ecu and fit any old signle channel ignitor to drive the coil from the ecu. Something like a J121 or 0227100124.
    1 point
  40. go to >Chassis and Body>Speed sources, and make sure driven wheel speed source is set to LF wheel speed if that is the one that works.
    1 point
  41. Assign your switch to a spare digital input on PCLink. Then setup the following to be similar. Fill table two wastegate duty and boost target map as desired. Every time you press the switch you will switch to your secondary boost tables for higher boost and hold it for 10 seconds.
    1 point
  42. Dougy

    Tach reading 600rpms high

    Sorted. Swapped tacho with FP on aux output and put FP on ign output, works with no pullup.
    1 point
  43. Adamw

    Oil Pressure Sensor issue

    There are two further thoughts I will leave. I know of at least one car locally that has caught fire due to the end blowing out of one of those sensors, luckily it was saved with minimal damage due to it happening on the dyno with plenty of extinguishers around, but it may not have been be so lucky if it happened on the road. So perhaps you arent considering the cost of a failed sensor - it may just leave you stranded due to it failing and giving say a false oil pressure limit. Sometimes when they fail they short the 5V rail so all sensors no longer work. Or it could be as serious as loosing the car or engine. The second factor is the tolerance of vibration. I only really have experience with relatively harsh race engines so road car engines may be more forgiving, but most of the cheap sensors dont last very long if fitted direct to the engine - and I mean even the cheaper name brand ones such as honeywell px3. Theses all need to be mounted remotely which if you add the cost of decent hose and fittings each end you are probably near the cost of a good sensor that will tolerate direct fitting. The only sensors I have have had little failures from when direct mounted: Honeywell PX2. Link/Variohm/Eurosensor Bosch 0261230340 <this is my goto at the moment, decent price, temp sensor built in and have never had one fail. Unfortunately the connectors arent that nice.
    1 point
  44. Not to take anything away from you post, I love to see these ideas coming through - but Im just mentioning this in case you werent already aware of the "quick trim" function that has been around since the G4, it will do this same basic calculation and apply the result to the fuel table for you (you still need to manually type in the measured value though). If you have a log open and the fuel map on the same page, click on the cell in the fuel map that you want to adjust, then hit the M key, it will grab the target lambda from the lambda target table, you enter the measured lambda from the log and it will apply the correction to that cell for you.
    1 point
  45. Adamw

    toyota yaris coils

    About 7A each absolute max, more like 4A under normal conditions.
    1 point
  46. Engine up and running and used auto tune to fill a few low throttle position cells. Seemed OK. Put car on Dyno an as soon as it sees any load with auto tune on it goes full lean. AFR sensor is wired in to ecu and I see the same lean condition on the Innovate gauge as the laptop in the Link screen shot. Attached is the tune file. What the hell did I do wrong. Thanks miataultralow.pclr
    1 point
  47. I've been registered here for a while, but as a reflection of my progress on my project , I haven't actually done anything on the site. I have a '97 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT, which has done daily driver / auto-cross / track day duty for me since I bought it in 2000. The late '90s 2.5GTs were non-turbo, with the DOHC 2.5L EJ25D rated at 165/162 hp/tq. Over the years, I did a variety of modifications to the original EJ25D - ported heads, reground cams, header, etc - that resulted in a significant bump in power, to something around what a stock 2.0L WRX puts down. Yes, I realize many would think that was a poor ROI compared to just doing a turbo swap, but I've never had any desire to go the turbo route (note the license plate in the above pic). However, more power is more better, so at some point I started thinking about swapping in the EZ30 6-cylinder from the Outback. Initially I was planning to use the 2nd generation EZ30, commonly called the EZ30R, which was offered starting in '05 in the US. Rated @ ~245bhp, DBW throttle body, variable intake cam timing and lift, blah blah blah. I picked up a very lightly used EZ30R years ago and was intending to swap that in the car. Since the 30R uses a CAN-bus type ECU with an Immobilizer, it's very challenging to use the factory ECU (I've only ever seen discussion of 1 person successfully accomplishing that), so I picked up a Vipec V88 to run the engine. 4 years ago, I was still running an EJ25D, planning to do the 6-cylinder swap "some day". Then I managed to hydro-lock the EJ25D , and suddenly it seemed like it was time to do the H6 swap. Unfortunately, I had run into some issues getting the 30R cylinder heads worked on by a shop, so the first H6 I had purchased wasn't ready to go. I came across a great deal on a used 1st generation EZ30, commonly called the EZ30D, so I bought that and rebuilt it. The 30D doesn't have the fancy variable cams, is drive by cable, and is only rated 212hp. So, I proceeded with the swap, and mechanically pretty much got things done as of 2-1/2 years ago: I had spoken with a Vipec dealer / tuner here in the US about installing & tuning the ECU for me - he was only a few hours away, so it would've been quite convenient. Unfortunately, by the time I finished all of the mechanical stuff, and then had to pack all of my stuff and relocate due to a change in duty station, he was no longer in the Vipec business. Well... damn. Thus began the long, stagnant period, during which I ignored the thing and hoped that the wiring harnesses would magically merge on their own. That has still not happened , so I might actually have to do it myself! I've gone through the Subaru engine harness wiring diagram and created a nice Excel spreadsheet of everything. I had sourced a complete main dash harness from an '01 Outback; I've culled that down to just the connectors that plug into the engine harness, each with long pigtails for merging purposes. Now I just need to figure out matching up the EZ30D pinouts to the V88 pinouts, some of which is pretty obvious, but other stuff I need to do some homework. And then I need to actually merge the harnesses, something I've never undertaken before. At my current pace, I'm reasonably certain I will have the project completed at some point this century, maybe even this decade.
    1 point
  48. Adamw

    Mixture Map

    With quick tune the amount of time in each cell and the center tolerance is configurable, so you could effectively make it instant to do what you are asking for. However, I dont think this is a good idea and will just quickly make a mess of your map. The idea of the mixture map feature is you post process the log file using filters to remove transients, gear changes and most other conditions where Lambda measurement is not accurate or representative - so you are only adjusting your fuel table using "good" data. You cant really do that "live" as you dont know what data to filter/ignore until after the event has happened.
    1 point
  49. Bumping an ancient thread here... Not sure if Ben is still active on the forum or not. Here in the US, we didn't get the EZ30 until 2001, and had that version from 2001 to 2004. Since our Subaru model years are typically a year behind the Japanese and Aus/NZ markets, it sounds like it's probably your '00-03 "phase 2" EZ30. (No AVCS or AVLS, cast aluminum intake manifold with variable plenun / IRIS valve, single exhaust port on each head - is that what your phase 2 motor has?) In the not-too-distant future I plan to install an '01 EZ30 into my '97 Legacy using a Vipec V88. It would be great to be able to pick the brain of someone who has already done something similar.
    1 point
  50. SOLVED! Air con clutch polarity need to be HIGH. That explains why a/c clutch and fans had engaged half second after that a/c button was pressed.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...