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  1. Im not sure how relevant this is, but here is the ignition table from our V11 JDM STI test car. EJ207, quad VVT. Dead stock, 98octane RON pump gas. Most of the cells that it runs in are steady state tuned and it doesnt take much more timing than this, its a couple of degress away from knock when IAT creeps up. It runs 240kpa boost up to about 5500 then tapers away to 220kpa at the top end due to running out of injector. All of the parts that are meant to be inside the engine have managed to stay inside so far.
    3 points
  2. All of these are possible. I suggest you download and install PCLink (if you've not done so already), open it up, open an Evo base map, then also open the Help file, and start looking at the options and the help file. The Help file provided with these ECUs is the best sets of documentation I've ever seen - not only does it tell you how the software works, but also gives you help and advice on tuning, engine electrical systems and ECUs in general.
    2 points
  3. For a turbo engine like this with a plenum and single throttle your best option will be MGP on both the fuel table axis and lambda target table axis.
    2 points
  4. Just recently got it back up and running on a Monsoon-X! It was my first time building an entire harness and getting everything set-up with minimal help. It has been a great experience so far, and the car is already running better than on its previous standalone! Can’t say enough about the support offered here by both staff and other members. Hope to keep on learning!
    2 points
  5. The goal of using a timing light is to confirm what the software think is for example is 10°, is actually 10 physical degrees on your engine. You can put whatever value you want as base timing, the end goal is that it matches your engine spark timing. No skips possible without timing light
    2 points
  6. I drove my car today for the first time after changing over to my Link Monsoon-X. I was amazed at how, even in the rudimentary initial tune and tables, it already behaved significantly better than my previous standalone set-up (especially on part throttle driveability). I look forward to getting the system further dialed in, but so far it was worth every single penny. Also the Link support here is fantastic, thanks!
    2 points
  7. Adamw

    fuel level problem

    If it is always reading 5V then there is a wiring problem and it isnt going to work until you fix that.. You should see a variable voltage when it is working correctly. You can use cal table 7/8/9/10. The voltage is not usually linear with fuel level due to the shape of the fuel tank, so it is best to calibrate it by starting with an empty tank and adding known volume increments - say 20L at a time and note down voltage for each volume. Then use those numbers to make your cal table.
    2 points
  8. Vaughan

    Ecu security

    Not that I know of, the 350Z one works with our ECU but wouldn't be easy to setup in another vehicle, I personally use the DI feature in one of my vehicles but I have been tempted on more than one occasion to do something with an arduino, a serial to CAN converter and a NFC reader.
    2 points
  9. Adamw

    Link identification

    Since this one has wastgate control I suspect it wont have the supercharger clutch function.
    1 point
  10. essb00

    g4+ resolution

    It is an issue with Windows scaling... Change it to 100%, it will look ok. Nothing can be done within PCLink to correct that.
    1 point
  11. Strange issue. Some of your settings for idle seem redundant, for example when you turn the AC request on the following things are happening: - Idle base position table switching from 3.7% to 5.1% - Engine Fan Offset adds + 1% - GP Idle Offset adds + 10% + 300RPM Idle Target - AC Idle Up Offset adds +8% + 100RPM Idle Target When AC request is turning on and off you have around 20% idle duty being added, which is crazy for ethrottle. I can see you have set a maxmium idle clamp of 4.7% so the Ethrottle dosent go to 20%, but this combination of settings seems li
    1 point
  12. Howard Coleman

    Math Block

    Thank you Vaughan for solving my puzzle.
    1 point
  13. Base map is not very safe, too much timing, attached a safe timing map fro you
    1 point
  14. if that's what it was, then based on Vaughan's post it's not a fault, it's a user configurable output based on a set of conditions, that just so happens to be configured to turn on the output that the CEL is also connected to - doubling up the usage of that physical output to denote multiple things.
    1 point
  15. Adamw

    16v 4age with ITB

    One of our dealers "Panic Wire" knows many of the old school toyota's well and makes adapter harnesses for many of them - even if it's not on his website it is worth asking. I wouldnt recommend trying to make your own harness unless you are willing to invest a lot of time and money learning and possibly doing it twice. https://panicmade.com/wiring You can use the distributor or change to COP - IO dont know what the factory wiring is cabpable of if you decided to go the adapter harnes tyupe route. Air temp is nesecary, MAP sensor is nesecary if you want to use an idle control solenoid,
    1 point
  16. I would expect that the rad cap setup won't be able to flow enough volume to prevent noticeable spikes and I would expect there to be delays in its operation both of which would mean that sharp pressure spikes should be visible if you did have combustion gases entering the coolant system.
    1 point
  17. AN Volt 3 is not really useable, you would need to remove the MAP sensor and capacitor and connect a wire in its place. The aux output connects to ground when switched on. So yes, one side of lamp to ign switch, other side to aux. Adjust the master fuel until it runs ok, most likely it will be about half its current value. Fuel table will likely still need some major re-tuning as you are going to be operating well outside of the bigger injectors linear operating range.
    1 point
  18. You've got pretty low voltage on the cam sensor and a few trigger errors showing. Try adjusting the trigger arming thresholds as per the examples below. And I would suggest pulling a plug out to check for spark rather than relying on just the timing light flash, that is not always conclusive.
    1 point
  19. It's like im trying to extract teeth or something... Im trying to help you in the middle of my weekend, please attach your map so I can take a look and offer the next steps in diagnosing.
    1 point
  20. they you have a sensor problem, actual wiring problem, or the trigger teeth are broken or too far away
    1 point
  21. Adamw

    Subaru EZ30 Wiring

    That is correct.
    1 point
  22. Can you try this map, I have changed many of your settings to more typical values. Can you log some idle time with AC on/off and some throttle blips etc, I will make some further adjustments once I see the log. 1617581754051_LA400Kkurosiba16ttt idle test.pclx
    1 point
  23. Adamw

    Can lambda input

    Your JST plug is the same as the one I showed in the photo. Only the white and green wires are relevant. Leave your extension cable plugged in to the NZEFI cable and test from DTM plug at the lambda end of it to the JST plug at the ecu end.
    1 point
  24. I misunderstood the units. Thank you very much for your guidance.
    1 point
  25. As heads up, I've also tested with wall wetting off, and car stats now like a charm like my other experiences with G4+, so that definetly came from that
    1 point
  26. Your idle overshoots because of too high PID values. Try the following (in the screenshot). *You also need to change the Idle Speed Control Max Clamp (you may need this a little bit higher) & Min Clamp (you may need this lower) accordingly. The idle base position values should be adjusted when AC off.
    1 point
  27. can you attach a log.
    1 point
  28. If the ecu connects to all other laptops besides the tablet then I dont think there is any point sending the ecu back. Maybe start by looking at the differences between your tablet that works and the one that doesnt. Look in device manager and compare the the USB chipset/hub/root hub etc. The fact that windows doesnt recognise it suggests there is something not right on the USB side. Have you swapped the OTG cable between tablets etc? Tried a usb hub?
    1 point
  29. Mizan

    DI on Evo PNP G4X

    Got it on the website.. https://www.roadraceengineering.com/evo/tech/EVO-ecuwiring.htm ive done several conversion for oem evo ecu in which some customers who wanted the flatshift to be activated and i usually do it on the pin 43. would be great that to update the manual to help others.. but this is based on our jdm/audm model in asia.. hope this helps..
    1 point
  30. Just to add to this thread. Been having hot start issues with wall wetting enabled on RB26 and 2JZ, usually between 2-5%. Was scratching my head as to why it was causing issues, but remembered this thead and disabled wall wetting and starts every time. Still not as fast as G4+, seems like it takes one engine cycle longer. Can the documentation for wall wetting and asynch injection be improved whilst you are looking at this. Maybe give some worked examples, hard to understand the balance between Async, wall wetting and accel enrichment.
    1 point
  31. Adamw

    LS1 no trigger

    With the sensors removed from the engine, but still plugged into the loom and with ignition on so they are all powered up, back probe the signal pin at the sensor connector and connect a voltmeter (use a paper clip poked through the wire seal). The signal wire should be 4V or higher with no metal in front of it and 0V when you hold something steel in front of it (like a screw driver or spanner). If you dont see that voltage change then there is some problem with the wiring/pinout/sensor. If you see a voltage change at the sensor when you do the above test, then the next step would be to
    1 point
  32. cruz177

    fuel level problem

    Thanks I have found a reading fault with a ground, since the oem installation of the car uses an analog ground that is not reading correctly link for the fuel tank I will be fixing it and I will test, I will share the fuel level adjustment table if it works. Thanks
    1 point
  33. Adamw

    Can lambda input

    ID needs to be set to extended.
    1 point
  34. Vaughan

    Can lambda input

    set the ID position to none
    1 point
  35. Time will tell, but Im not convinced that would have been your problem. There are 2 TP sensors connected to the same butterfly shaft, so yes - if there was dirt of something stopping the blade from closing then they would read higher than normal when closed - but since they are both connected to the same shaft they would both read higher by the same amount. The fault code you had was due to the sensors reading differently from each other. One was showing 3% more than the other. When the sensors read different the ecu has no way of knowing which one is correct.
    1 point
  36. Here's the video of the FFS testing to go with that log.
    1 point
  37. Haha, no actually this is just manually shifting with a clutch. It’s a 1999 Subaru 2.5 RS with a 2007 STi engine swap and a short ratio Subaru 6 Speed gear box. I can shift it decently quick and with the right shift cut settings is very quick and smooth. I’ll upload a video tomorrow if you want to see it. The upper clutch switch is the trigger and it’s open looped timed control for the cut and resume of power. A proper sequential box would be even faster. I’m planning to eventually fit one to my 2011 STi time attack car. It’s on a Motec M1 ECU currently but I’ll likely do some Link ECU testing
    1 point
  38. The 2500rpm with pops and bangs is the throttle system going into safety mode, if it thinks there is a safety issue it shuts off power to the E-throttle (the spring will slightly open it to about 7% throttle) and a rev limit of 1800rpm is activated. Can you attach the tune and a short log of some pedal presses before cranking, then capture a crank/start up as well. It would be nice to capture the fault happening in a log if you can but otherwise just a log of a start up may be enough to see if it is getting close to the error triggers.
    1 point
  39. Found my issue!! The cobb pulleys "timing mark" is at least 30° off. My eyeball comparison was clearly off, glad we got it sorted out though. If I have any further issues I'll update with a trigger scope. Thank you Adam!!
    1 point
  40. No I wouldnt assume that, in fact based on my experience I would say something like 500:1 far more likely to be something other than the ecu. But Im sure they will still be happy to test the ecu. There may be a charge depending on how many hours they spend on it. Email tech@linkecu.com on Monday to arrange a service.
    1 point
  41. Your triggerscope is fine at 3000RPM, but in your other post about VVT anything below 1000RPM your cam signal shows an extra tooth. Obviously when cranking on the starter motor the RPM is less than 1000, so the extra tooth is present, this may cause the ecu to sync at the incorrect point. You need to find the cause of the extra tooth and fix it.
    1 point
  42. In terms of wiring it is simple, just splice or daisy chain CAN H & L to the 2nd device. In terms of set up there is a small procedure to go through: You do not set up any extra channels in the CAN setup screen - you should only have 1 channel in there set to "Link CAN Lambda" and it should be assigned ID 950 as normal. The ecu will read data from up to 8 individual CAN lambdas all on the one channel. Once wiring is completed, unplug the lambda controller that you want to be "Lambda 1" so that only the 2nd lambda controller is connected. Then go to the CAN devices tab an
    1 point
  43. My view is if this is only a VVT trigger and I presume the VVT doesnt start to work at a high rpm, just looked at your attached CAL (1800rpm) , I wouldn't worry about this issue , maybe the gap to the sensor is a little wide once the speed is raised the sensor can give the correct trigger signal.
    1 point
  44. Im having trouble spotting the cause of the different AFR. For similar conditions the commanded injector PW's tally up to to what my rough theoretical calculation would suggest is needed to achieve the same AFR for the difference in fuel stoich. There's a few other differences that throw a spaanner in the works however so dont make the comparison easy. ethanol temp, charge temp, etc. Does the problem get worse at say 0% eth? My only other thought is the ZT3 wideband doesnt have an analog ground, that can often cause the AFR to read different when for instance a fan or similar t
    1 point
  45. Lambda doesnt necessarily need to be 1.0 for idle, give it whatever it is happy at. 0.9 or 0.95 is often fine. But I was more getting at is the whole fuel and ignition tables should be tuned before you mess around much with idle - as how the engine enters and exits idle control will be dependent on the tune outside of the idle area. For example it no use having 10deg in your idle ignition table if the main ign table has 30deg in it just outside of idle. By all means turn on open loop idle control and get some basic numbers in there but dont waste time getting it right until the
    1 point
  46. V1.3 bottom board should be fine. Need to see your map. Ensure aux 4 is set to tacho and ensure no other aux, fuel or ign outputs are set to tacho.
    1 point
  47. Or even being able to customize FN / shortcut keys?
    1 point
  48. Then tell us the version number of your ecu as I have shown above and attach a copy of your map and we will take a look.
    1 point
  49. Depends who's putting it all together and tuning it. Using the ecu could save some money as it removes the need for an external controller, but there really are a few ways you could do it, each with various pros and cons. Standalone setups are perhaps easier for a novice, but either way it will need tuned anyway so someone competent needs involved to get it all working properly.
    1 point
  50. Hi Mike, I've been planning to run a nitrous setup like this: Aux in - 1600psi Bottle pressure sensor aux in- arming switch Aux out - relay to bottle heater aux out - relay to nitrous solenoid(s) aux out - relay to purge solenoid and then run it as a dry shot, activated by a virtual aux that ensures bottle pressure is high enough, arming switch is armed, and it's above a minimum RPM. Also have a virtual aux that runs the bottle heater if you've armed the system, until the bottle pressure reaches a goal target. When nitrous activates I was planning on having the ECU switch over to a 2nd fuel
    1 point
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