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  1. Disagree, Link already has a whole bench of different wire in ECU's, like no other manufacturer. Price diff is not that biig between Furry and Thunder to add another one. 2x DBW and only 1x Lambda does not make sense in most applications. Thats my oppinion.
    2 points
  2. For basic stuff, I use a free online one called scheme-it, from Digikey. You just need to set up a log-in. One of my drawings as an example below.
    2 points
  3. Hi, My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun. I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom. This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine.
    2 points
  4. Bethanyc

    IC Spray extra tables

    thanks Vaughan and Kris for the ideas, i think now have a simpler way to make it work while keeping most all the IC spray functions. i checked the logs from the 2 events i have had with the ECU in and as the 2 events were 2 extremes, one at 25 deg day the other at 40 deg, there is a very constant increase in between AIT,Oil and ECT. So i can flatten the input with the mathblock somewhat by adding the 3 values together in the mathblock and using that output to increase the duty cycle. This way if one of the values from anything increase out of the ordinary i still get the benefit of increa
    1 point
  5. I suggest you use the pinout in the G4X version of PC Link as they are now a bit more complete. Pin 40 is controlled by the jumper on the bottom board. If it is in the Evo4-7 position it is basically open circuit (Evo 4-7 used this pin for the catalytic converter warning lamp). With the jumper shorted (EVO 8 position) then pin 40 is sensor ground. Click on the image below will give you a bigger version.
    1 point
  6. Normal G4X has a different accel mode.
    1 point
  7. Adamw

    Extreme and MGX dash.

    All data is sent on unique ID's, you tell each receiving device which ID the data is on. So for instance the dash will only be looking at data on the bus with an ID of 1000. The ECU will only be looking for data with whatever ID the EGT's are on.
    1 point
  8. Vaughan and Adam, Thanks for the advice and support
    1 point
  9. I have a map (a base map I have set up) saved with the first math block used to convert Lambda to AFR (gasoline) by multiplying Lamda1 variable a by 14.7. Equation: a*14.7 This works fine on the ecu I have connected while setting this up. If I save the tune, however, and then load it on a new ecu this no longer functions. I can get it to start working again if I go into the math function, play with it like by editing the equation (without making a change) and saving, and then it starts functioning.
    1 point
  10. koracing

    IC Spray extra tables

    You want to increase the duty cycle of your IC sprayer basd on oil, water, or air temp? No a 4D table is only for fuel or ignition. I think it should be possible using Math channels and PWM output tables if you have them available to set up individual duty cycle tables. At least that's what I think should work. Something like if the IC spray function is active - add the duty cycle there to any other duty cycle parameters or something. Something like this: Obviously there would be a lot of freedom in this setup to adjust axis values and break points as well as activation logic a
    1 point
  11. The DIP switches just swap the trigger 1 & trigger 2 pins with each other to suit the R34 CAS which is reversed compared to R32/33. Trigger 1 connected to pin 42 would be the normal R32/R33 wiring so the DIP switches would be set per the "Other models" config.
    1 point
  12. Ok @Vaughan, my mistake then
    1 point
  13. Most likely valve float and the delay is the lifter bleeding down. That's if it's not an ECU setting.
    1 point
  14. You can still run the stock coils, you will just need an external ignitor. 2Channel if it is the 4 tower wasted spark coil, or 4 channel for COP. Often however it is just easier and cheaper to convert to some other coil with built in ignitors.
    1 point
  15. No. There is no ignitor on the OE coil
    1 point
  16. Will need a copy of your tune and a log of it happening.
    1 point
  17. Wildt267

    Talk me into a link

    Thank you for the replies. That's more the type of information i was looking for. I appreciate it.
    1 point
  18. G4X DI's are all capable of 10KHz, turbo speed can be connected directly.
    1 point
  19. Vaughan

    Evo G4X plugin

    A quick compare of the two shows the differences as trigger pattern and IC Spray setup, the trigger mode would be dependent on the cam trigger as the crank triggers are identical (different pattern of teeth).
    1 point
  20. I've had to tweak the trigger thresholds on several distributor 3SGTEs/Toyotas to get no misfire or errors at idle with the Link (which is more than I ever had to do with some other ecus). Typically I would run a trigger scope at cranking and every 1000 rpm that there are threshold break points and then set the trigger threshold value to approximatly 1/2-2/3 of the scope peak reading at each break point. This has worked well for me so far.
    1 point
  21. Hi Vaughan Yes pretty much. I usually set the tablets up with a few different displays and have the status windows on there so the customer can see when things are active. With them being touch screen they seem to think the window is an on/off switch even though they usually have a switch wired in for whatever function it may be. Thought I'd bring it up as it would be quite a nice thing to have. Rough example but you get idea.
    1 point
  22. Try this, it looks like mostly it was the fan set and the Fan2 settings. Do another cold start log with this map, then you can use that to tune the base position table. Idle changes.pclr
    1 point
  23. dx4picco

    trigger scope

    create a time plot with the available trigger data
    1 point
  24. Adamw

    trigger scope

    Assuming you have trigger 1 edge is set to falling that scope would be good.
    1 point
  25. CAN wiring is meant to be twisted with a 120ohm resistor at both ends of the bus. The ECU has one built in for the ECU end so you only need to add one at the far end. However - as I said earlier I doubt this is your problem, it can slow down comms and become more of an issue with a more loaded bus with lots of data on it but a single lambda is not sending much data. Are you definitely sure that sensor is still getting hot with just ign on, engine not running?
    1 point
  26. I find it much simpler to tune petrol first, and once you tune whatever blend of ethanol and petrol you want, it is possible to extrapolate the 0% and 100% tables linearly in excel (assuming you use the same axis breakpoints on table 1 and 2).
    1 point
  27. Sounds like it's crashed There is a reset procedure Will have a look from a message I had from link HI Neil, It would be worth trying a firmware reset. To do this hold the enter key/ button down (the one at the bottom of key pad) while powering up the unit. This will reset all settings so you might have to reset the ECU type and any alarms that you ahd set up.
    1 point
  28. As per the manual, the Mini ECU has ignitors built-in on ignition drives 1 & 2, so you can only use "dumb" coils (coils without built-in ignitors), and you will also have to use a 2 or 3 channel external ignitor for ign 3 & 4.
    1 point
  29. Ok, that seems odd. You might have to use 6.18 for now until our engineers are back from holiday. I suggest you email tech@linkecu.com so they can get a ticket in the system and escalate it to engineering if they cant help.
    1 point
  30. I've had a bit of a play with the alternator control now and what I've found is that using something like "voltage<14.7" can result in the output just turning on and off lots which appears to regulate the voltage just fine because the output is updated fast enough but it seems a bit too easy. My current setup is an attempt at closed loop control in a table like the above but I was thinking I might try and make a PID loop using mathblocks to see how well that worked. My maths is currently: Math Block 1 (Voltage Error) = (14.7 - batt Voltage)*(Engine Speed > 0) The engine speed
    1 point
  31. Adamw

    Unhappy

    Pre Crank prime is a time based squirt that happens at power up. All the other enrichments are percentage adder based on the numbers in the main fuel table. You can log them all to see how much of each is working and how they transition from one phase to the next. There is a page in the help file that shows the order they work. I can't give a link today as working from a phone, but if you click on one of the cold start settings and press F1 you will find it.
    1 point
  32. Adamw

    Random questions

    Ethanol sensor is not even enabled in the tune you attached, so I can only really guess. But I would say most likely your active edge setting is wrong. Try swapping to the opposite edge.
    1 point
  33. Looks like you want more than just a Min/Max DC as you still want to be able to use 0%DC in the table, might be better for us to implement a dedicated PWM Fan controller.
    1 point
  34. koracing

    Gp pwm output clamps

    This is what I was thinking this whole thread also...
    1 point
  35. Thank you for your assistance, Confused you are a legend my friend, It was as you suggested again Merry Christmas
    1 point
  36. Adamw

    Gp pwm output clamps

    Here is a table setup that will give you the same result as above but with no interpolation:
    1 point
  37. Yes, it is disabled when the engine is not running. It will start heating about 20 sec after start up.
    1 point
  38. koracing

    Fuel pump question

    It is possible to run the ecu and engine without the ecu having any control of the pump. You do lose the option to prime and control when the pump is on obviously. At the most basic level, the ecu will do things if it sees trigger signal inputs that the engine is turning and that matches up with the trigger input settings in the ecu. It does not necessarily require more than that to operate injectors and ignition components.
    1 point
  39. dx4picco

    Fuel pump question

    Most of the time the ECU will control a relay that feeds the fuel pump. You will get +12V going to the relay and then the relay to a aux output that will provide a ground a the right time. You can also control your pump with a pwm signal depending on the model
    1 point
  40. Here is my data, from Golebys website, not sure if it's dead on but it is something.
    1 point
  41. Relatively confident we have a solution for this unfortunately it does require a hardware change, Units will need to come in to the nearest office for the work to be done.
    1 point
  42. Adamw

    Porsche 951 Crank sensor.

    The two with the 960 ohm resistance between them are your ground and signal. The ground connects to the white wire and the signal to the black. If you dont have any documentation to show which is +/- then sometimes it can be determined with a basic multimeter test - I will explain that in more detail below. The third pin is the shield for the sensor pigtail, connect this to the bare drain wire in the link loom. Multimeter test to determine VR sensor polarity: Set multimeter to DC mV. Connect the positive MM lead to one of the pins and the negative to the other. Hold a piece
    1 point
  43. what ecu do you have, a G4 or G4+?
    1 point
  44. Adam you are a wizard Harry. I don’t think I’ve ever had a novel of a reply in any forum. Im going to just get the Ross crank trigger today with the 36-2 disc and for factory look I’m just going to cut the oem cas disc back to make a single tooth reference. All your post was missing was my trigger setup instructions for pc link and I’m laughing hahaha Love it man Thankyou. Makes more sense now.
    1 point
  45. With the 12 tooth option, the position of the cam tooth is quite critical as there is nothing on the crank to identify where TDC is. Im not sure how clear this description will be but Im struggling to come up with a good explanation today: With the 12 tooth set up, the only way the ECU knows which tooth on the crank represents TDC is by using the cam tooth as a index to tell it which tooth on the crank to start counting degrees from. This generally works well provided you make sure that the cam tooth is set up to occur reasonably centered between two crank teeth. The potential problem
    1 point
  46. Adamw

    R8 Coil wiring

    Pin 4 is on the left, pin 1 on the right. Pin 4 is the main power ground so needs to be decent sized wire. Pin 2 is signal ground so can be smaller. Ground both to cyl head. Pin 3 is the ign signal from ECU. Pin 1 is +12V, again needs to be decent wire. Dont give these too much dwell, they pull about 16A at 2.5ms, I usually stick around 1.8ms which is about 8A.
    1 point
  47. Hi there, i'm having trouble to get my engine start up. When i look into trigger scope, i think it is not as what it should be. Here is the screenshot of the trigger. My engine details and ecu type : Daithatsu K3-VET Trigger pattern 36-2 on crank 3 on camshaft Using Link G4+ Evo 3 Plug in. Trigger 1 is connected to crankshaft sensor, while trigger 2 is connected to cam sensor. Both are Variable Reluctance type sensor. Below is the diagram of my original ECU. I did my wiring as such that i connected N1+ (Crank Sensor) to pin 69 (Trig 1)
    1 point
  48. It's up to you to decide based on whatever it is you're trying to achieve, and what you want each ecu to do, or how active/functional you need the OEM ecu to remain. In general, 2 wire sensors/triggers cannot be shared 3 wire powered sensors can usually share a signal.
    1 point
  49. Fotis

    Subaru V4 STi

    How's everyone doing? Here is a vehicle that i have tuned (FworXtuning) of a customer. Made 345awhp and 56kgm torque at 1.7 bar boost . My first dyno tune how does the dyno graph look to you? Feel free to advice me Engine : EJ20K stroker 2.2L Eagle rods Mahle ceramic coated pistons Ihi VF43 stock turbo Stock cylinder head no porting Spec C top mount intercooler Tial 38mm external Fuel: D1 spec fuel regulator AEM fuel pump 355lph 105 RON fuel
    1 point
  50. Typically you would have the sensor ground on both ECU's connected together so they are referencing the same ground. Then for all the sensors you would only connect the signal wire - not the ground (so just the signal wire from the crank sensor to Link ecu, etc) . Obviously temp sensors will need to be connected to Volt inputs, not temp inputs.
    1 point
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