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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/18/2015 in Posts

  1. Hi All, The developers of RealDash have been working with us to make their app compatible with Link ECU's. It is now compatible. For those that havent seen it you can learn more here: http://www.realdash.net/ In my short play it seems to work well and has lots of cool features. Lap timing, navigation, configurable alarms, live graphs, live streaming of data, music player, etc. The app and a selection of basic "skins" are totally free, then there are some more fuller featured paid for "premium skins" that do more stuff such as data logging and may look cooler these are still relatively cheap ranging about $3-$10. One example below. Right now it wont work on the Atom, Monsoon, Kurofune or Black Storm as the serial stream is not enabled in those ECU's but we hope to enable that setting in the next couple of months. Right now it will work in the Blue Storm, Xtreme, Fury, Thunder, all Plug-ins & Force. It will also work on old G4/Vipec V series ECU's. Connection to your tablet/smartphone is direct using your normal Link USB tuning cable, for phones/tablets that only have a micro USB port you will need a "Micro USB OTG adapter". Instructions for setup and connection attached to bottom of this post. Edit 18 Jan 2020; Have added a zip folder with an example configuration for CAN connection using the generic USB or Bluetooth CAN Adapters (see realdash website for supported adapters). This config also includes an example of how to send an onscreen button press to the ECU. RealDash.pdf Realdash CAN example.zip
    7 points
  2. Hey people, Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well. I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D ignition, 5D ignition and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode. With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table in varying amounts without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily. Like so: Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear. Then flicked the first switch, did it again. Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values: Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km: Then from here, collated the results from each run. So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too. It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising) Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat.
    7 points
  3. Iecku, I just thought I would mention a little bit of info that many people miss. These kits appear to use the Honeywell 1GT101 sensor, these sensors are much slower on the rising edge than the falling edge. The datasheet quotes a 15µs rise time Vs 1µs for fall time. So for at least trigger 1 (that controls the timing) it would be more correct to set the trigger edge to falling. Even though 15µs is only like 0.9 deg at 10000RPM, if you can get extra accuracy just by a simple setting change - then you might as well use it...
    7 points
  4. Hi, My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun. I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom. This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine. Results were unexpected: (Colour scale is cam angle, blue is 0 degrees advance) The engine pretty much hated having any cam advance at all over say 3000rpm. As opposed to my other engine where it likes lots of advance right to say 6500rpm then tapers off. I also noticed that the mass air flow rate just absolutely flatlines when you got to around 4000rpm. I didnt have a map sensor connected, but my suspicions were that it relates to the absolutely tiny throttle body, and the super long skinny runner on the intake manifold. There didnt look to be a particularly easy way to fit a bigger throttle body, as the whole manifold is plastic and there's not much scope for boring it out. So looking in the parts bin, I had some silvertop 4AGE throttles in the garage. I have a 3D printer that could bang together a usable prototype so after a few adjustments ended up with this. Then printed some trumpets to available clearance. Everything fit up surprisingly easily, the most expensive part of the swap (of parts I didnt already have) was just buying a radiator hose so I could move the filler cap a little further over. Results - were amazing! Instead of flatlining at 4000rpm, it just kept going up. I'd keep revving it a bit higher to help mitigate the crummy gearing from 1st to 2nd, but it starts getting valve bounce at around 7200rpm. Also, now since the pressure differential from intake side to exhaust side has lessened (less intake vacuum at WOT) the engine now likes having more cam advance to make use of some scavenging. Virtual dyno showing really good gains, and the difference in the fuel map backed this up too. I took this car to the drags last year for a laugh, and when standard it ran a 17.6 @ 77mph with a 2.5 sec 60foot. So I wanted to try beat this as best I could, so setup a basic launch control using just rpm limiter with vehicle speed as a load axis I figure I can tweak the 0kph limit up or down to set how much initial wheelspin it has, and then tweak the decay rate to calm down any excessive wheelspin as it gains speed. Some testing was looking promising but I also havent really been in the mood to deal with a blown up clutch so I didnt spend too much time on it. The printed manifold got some reinforcing just in case. Come to drag day. I think this launch control method would have worked well if I was doing a burnout to scuff the tyres. But since I was clutch concious I was just rolling through. So the tyres would get wet to a varying degree and also the rubber debris you pick up varies from run to run. So I found it was a bit inconsistent. None the less, managed to improve the PB significantly to 16.4 @ 83mph. With a slower 60ft at 2.6 seconds So possibly even quicker however I only completed a minimal amount of runs for sake of clutch preservation. (I've owned this car since 30,000km, it's now on 195,000km with original clutch) It's actually been heaps of fun, and it's a completely different car to drive with the better intake. I've got a gearbox ready to fit with better final drive ratio and gearing from the RS model, and a torsen LSD to fit in it. I'll also chuck the 1500cc motor in at some point, I'd imagine it would dip into the 15 second bracket pretty easy with that combo. And it's great because all of the parts are hilariously cheap. If I could wring 100hp per litre out of the 1500cc setup it would be pretty hilarious to drive, as it's only around 800kg. Still not the same power to weight ratio as my other car, however, would be a heap of fun to do some autocross/hillclimbs/small track stuff with.
    6 points
  5. Adamw

    PC Link New Layouts

    Hi All, The default layouts in the current G4+ PC Link are pretty dated, I recently done a couple of new ones that will be included as the defaults in the next PC Link update. But in the meantime here they are so you can use them now. FYI, if you use both G4+ and G4X ecus and you have highly customised layouts, you can copy the same layout into both PC Link versions by just changing the file extension. G4+ extension is .llg and G4X uses .llgx. Feel free to add to this post if you have any layouts you want to share. 1366 x 768.llf 1920 x1080.llf
    6 points
  6. Hi, Currently with mixture map you set a threshold so that samples within say 25% of the centre of a cell vertically and horizontally. This pool of results are used to contribute towards an average value in the centre of the closest cell. However this means that you've got 25% variation of rpm and load, contributing to a static value in the centre - and you need to throw away 75% (?) of recorded values. I have another idea that can let you use all of the data instead, and improve the results. For simplicity's sake imagine a 4x4 grid, and our current load and rpm point is 25% of the way towards the lower RPM value and 25% of the way towards the lower Load value. If we interpolate these values, as per what the ECU does. Note: I have just titled the columns and rows with percentages to show what percentage of the each cell we are interpolating from. We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 40) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 22.5 = 32.95 is the table value that interpolation produces. Now lets say that you wanted to add 10% to this value. If we just adjust the closest cell by 10%, as per current Mixture Map strategy. Then our bottom left cell changes to 44 so our table now looks like this: If we do the interpolation again, but with the new value to represent running the car again after the update: We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 44) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 24.75 = 35.2 as the new overall value. Which is only makes 6.8% difference to the interpolated value, rather than the 10% we wanted. On the other hand... If PCLink De-interpolated the 10% that it wants to add. Instead of adding 10% to the one cell, we split the 10% addition across the 4 cells based on the same percentage that the value was interpolated from initially. So: Top left cell: (10 * 1.1 * .25 * .25) = 0.6875 Bottom left cell: (30 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 6.1875 Top Right Cell: (20 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 4.125 Bottom Right Cell: (40 * 1.1 * .75 * .75) = 24.75 = 35.75 is the table value that de-interpolation produces. We were trying to add 10% and this new value produced is 10.5%. So that's pretty good! (The 0.5% error comes from rounding to 3 decimal places in my example) So it's accurate to the provided data in every instance. Which is especially relevant when it's applied 1000s of times across all of the cells. You dont need to throw away any of your recorded data, it all contributes to the cell values. Mixture map is pretty good for roughing out a map initially but because of the inaccuracies of the "nearest cell" method I don't really use it that much anymore when trying to dial in a fuel map. You always overshoot or undershoot unless you set your cell tolerances impossibly tight and have millions of samples. And, since this is all only done in PCLINK rather than the ECU, there's not really any worry about the overheads of the extra maths involved. It's worth having it chug away for a few minutes longer if you can get an awesome result on first or second iteration of Mixture map logging. So - that's my Friday night suggestion. Thanks for reading if you got this far, haha.
    6 points
  7. Hi Grant, In case my user name didn't give it away, I'm Andre from HPA We went down the path of online training because it allows us to help more people all around the world, and we firmly believe that it offers significant advantages to in-person training. It's a cost effective option since you don't need to travel, and you also have the advantage of being able to re-watch our courses as many times as you like. This means you can brush up on concepts that you're not clear on, or revisit concepts that you've perhaps forgotten since initially taking the course. The key to our courses though is our support community which is where we bridge the gap between online and in-person training - We believe strongly in supporting our members and this is where our private online forum and our regular weekly webinars help back up the course material. The forum is the perfect place to get fast and reliable answers to your questions, while our weekly webinars are the fastest way to expand your tuning knowledge on a range of engines and platforms, as well as staying up to date with the latest technologies. I couldn't agree more with Ben's comment about the requirement at some point to transition into hands-on experience and that's exactly why we developed our 'remote practice dyno' where you can get real world hands-on experience tuning a real engine on a real engine dyno without leaving your house. The online practice dyno is currently operating a Link G4+ Fury ECU which may be helpful to you given you're on this forum. You can find out more about the online practice dyno here: We understand that buying online education can be tricky and we want our members to be able to purchase with confidence which is why we also offer a 60 day, 100% money back guarantee - If for any reason you feel our courses aren't right for you, we will refund the full purchase price. If you're interested in getting a taste of what HPA is all about then I'd suggest you start by signing up for our free six-part series of lessons. This will give you some insight into how we work and what we can offer: https://www.hpacademy.com/free-tuning-lessons In the perfect world I believe the best solution is to get as much training as possible - Both in person and online. I found that when I was operating my own performance workshop however, that unless the in-person training was local, the cost of training staff in this way was usually prohibitive. I'm happy to answer any questions you may have
    6 points
  8. Not super fancy, but I use a math block to filter my speed signal with the average function (av). Works really well.
    5 points
  9. Thats not a nice way how you say that. On every product you buy the updates stops someday and you have to invest in the new generation unit if you want get all the recent features. Besides I'm 100% sure you would have been in the same situation with the other ECU manufacturer. And if your fuel table is properly tuned, there is no need for long term fuel trims. I recommend to use Mixture Map.
    5 points
  10. Efiguy

    EFI University or HPA?

    Hi All, Ben here from EFI University. Honestly, you really can't go wrong with any of the choices out there. Ben and Andre at HPA do a really great job and we have nothing negative to say, in fact a lot of our customers tell us they've used both and learned things from both. We try really hard to focus on giving our clients a real world "experience" by letting them actually put their hands on the dyno and doing the work. It's obviously a different approach to the learning process than an online experience, and we realize that due to cost and time not everyone can take advantage of this platform so we do offer some online training as well. As we move forward we may offer more of the online stuff based on requests from customers, but it's unlikely we'll ever transition to online only as it just doesn't stack up in real value to the customer the way a true hands-on experience does. I always like to use flight training as an example...you can only play on Microsoft Flight simulator for so long and eventually you HAVE to get into the airplane. No matter what, the experience will be different in real life so while we absolutely agree there is value in online video based training, our focus will always remain on training in a real world environment. I hope that was a helpful introduction and explanation of our core philosophy and if anyone had any questions don't hesitate to call or drop an email! Thanks, Ben Strader, President, EFI University, inc
    5 points
  11. Hi all, I just wanted to let everyone know I am still alive and slowly getting better after major surgery. Hopefully another couple of weeks and I will be able to get back to one of my very favourite past times, helping out with tech support where ever I can. I honestly miss this aspect of my life and has been a huge part of my life for so many years. I miss all the fantastic crew at LINK and can't wait to get back to business as usual. Take care everyone. Talk soon, Regards Dave.
    5 points
  12. New update is available here: https://linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ Release notes: https://www.linkecu.com/pclink/Link Engine Management PC Link G4X Updates 21042021.pdf Important notes: This firmware changes the sync point in some triggermodes so base timing must be checked after doing this update. There is a new "Slow Comms" setting added, this may help those with communication problems that are due to some laptops with USB ports that are slow to respond. This a an ECU setting so the ecu needs the latest firmware instaled before you will have this setting available, you will find it in the main configuration menu (where you set number of cylinders and engine type etc). Any new issues related to this update can be reported here.
    4 points
  13. I know this is becoming a bit of a blogpost, but I've managed to get it to work flawlessly now. This is just for anyone that is interested in getting a few pops and bangs on a gearchange/downshift without having fuel cut off all of the time, and, with some overlapping 4D and fuel cut ignition tables. Disclaimer: I am not a tuner, simply a novice that is taking a bit of interest. Above are my settings for this. Cutting the long story even longer: The fuel cut is on, but it takes 2 seconds to initiate because of the "activation delay" parameter. Within these 2 seconds, we want the 4D Ign table to take over, but only for these 2 seconds, and then we want to return to "Normal over-run fuel cut timing" after these 2 seconds are over. This is activated by Virtual aux 1. Virtual aux 1 is "On" when: MAP > 40kPa & Timer 1 <= 2 Seconds & ECT > 70 Degrees C We have Timer 1 on virtual aux 2 that activates when TPS%<8 (Same as fuel-cut) We have Timer 1 set to 3 seconds (3 seconds is arbitrary, as long as it is >2 seconds, we are okay) The 2 seconds on the timer are important, as we don't want any overlap (Although I'm not sure if it would make any difference when there is no fuel being injected). Once the timer is above 2 seconds, the "Pops and bangs" in the 4D table switch off, and the overrun fuel cut takes over. It is also important to have the polarity for the timer as "Reset on Off/On edge", as we want the 4D to only activate when we take our foot off the throttle. The "Off/on edge" means that the timer resets when VA2 starts. Below is the time plot for this, which should explain it better than I can on how this works. (Please note, pops and bangs 4D is called "Chav mode"). Shout out to @koracingand @VaughanI've learned a hell of a lot from this, so I appreciate all of your support. Kind regards, Beefy
    4 points
  14. Adamw

    SPAM on LINK Forum

    Thanks, I woke to several similar reports this morning, it seems to be all related to the same user so they have been flagged as a spammer and all posts/messages should now have been removed.
    4 points
  15. MagicMike

    'Save All' logs

    Would this be at all possible? Instead of having to save each individually?
    4 points
  16. 901 whp / 920 nm Vi-PEC V88 PT 6870 E85 Cheap, small eBay intercooler limit the power output. Should have seen 4-digit number with a proper cooler.
    4 points
  17. orlando bello

    Engine protection

    Would like to have more gp protection rpm limits tables. Not only rpm limit but also warnings under conditions.warning pop up on dash .
    4 points
  18. mldc

    Water Pump PWM

    Hello, Did some testing, results are below. Pump: Any pump CWA50, CWA200 or CWA400 would work with these settings. We use CWA200. Wiring: 1 - wired 12V from the PMU16, 25A channel. 2 - wired Aux high state signal. 3 - wired to ecu signal gnd. 4 - simple chassis GND. ECU settings: 50% on cranking is for waking up the pump. After that, You can use higher values then 50%. If your idle is lower then 1000 RPM, adjust the PWM table axis and values to suit your application. Results: Our race car working temperature is 70 C. In my case You can see that pump is working very slowly till 50 C. It's because I need to warm the coolant up as fast as I can. If You change Aux PWM table values, You could get more linear interpolation. Last chart shows how output current is ramping up as coolant temp warming up. p.s: I have wired coolant pressure sensor. On full power pump is making 0.7 bar of water pressure in the system. These settings are good starting point. Thank You.
    4 points
  19. The continental Ethanol Content Sensors will read significant lower when low flow goes through the sensor. This means during a WOT run the ethanol content will read significantly lower at high load and rpm than at idle, because the flow in the return line is low. I attached a Log to show the problem. With more boost, I see values 20% lower at WOT than at idle. This is a well-known problem and other ECU manufacturers have an Ethanol Clamp function for a good while. The Ethanol content does with activated clamp function only update when the Injector Duty Cycle is below a certain level. Once the INJ Duty Cycle is higher than the threshold the ECU takes the last value read below the threshold and update Ethanol content only when InjDC goes below the threshold. So a quite simple function, but with a big need! Please implement it asap. Thank you.
    4 points
  20. Yes, that was one of the first Efi engines I done about 20 years ago when I was a teenager. Motec M48. Couldn’t get many SR20 parts in those days so had to make throttle bodies, camshafts, dry sump system etc from scratch. Datsun 510 rally car.
    4 points
  21. Guys relax a bit. I've mapped and I'm supporting several 600-800hp 2.0 to 2.3l time attack engines/cars with a Link ECU and multimap strategy. Such an engine runs usually for 5000 race track kilometers until a rebuilt is needed. That's a similar distance to a 24h race. I like to answer your question.: All LINK ECU use the same PC-Software and the same Firmware. The main difference between all LINK G4+ ECU's is only the hardware. your tuner should tune the main Fuel and ign Maps from the lowest to the highest boost levels. There are 3 main Boost Maps in the LINK ECU. You can additionally span one of the axis of the Boost Wastegate or Target table to a driver Rotary Switch. So it's possible to have up to 33 different boost maps, which all can be switched on the fly. On top of that, you can activate 4D fuel and ignition tables on one or several of the boost maps. This allows trimming Ignition and Fuel on some maps if you or your tuner like to do that. The Link Ecu is really flexible. Usually, the only limit what you can do is the creativity of the tuner. As an example, we installed 3 rotary switches in a Time Attack/ Hillclimb car. One 12-Position Rotary Switch is used to choose between 12 different torque maps (mainly altered by boost strategy). The Launch RPM can be chosen over another 12-Position Switch, depending on whether and Track conditions. And lastly, we have a 3-Position Rotary Switch to choose one of 3 Drive by wire Throttle Maps. For engine Safety, we set up Limits for too low and to high Coolant temp, Oil temp, Oil press and Fuel press. We are also using full time closed loop lambda and sending a lot of Data over a custom CAN. As you see, the LINK is a very capable system. But as every ECU, it needs a capable tuner to use it properly.
    4 points
  22. That and a few other handy features are already on my list of "Things that would make PCLink much nicer to use as a tablet dash". Thanks!
    4 points
  23. mapper

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Regarding Lambda control error correction table. I spend alot of time to tune these. The base map is adjusted the wrong way around. Because the error correction tables is a % corretion of actual error, you want big corrections like 15% on small errors (0.03 lambda error) and small correction (like 5%) at the biggest error on the table. This is because a fuel film built up first in the ports when big correction are applied. This means it needs several burn cycles to get the whole change applied and measured. This means lambda control applies big changes two or three times for big corrections which leads to Lambda oscillation. On small changes fuel film built up is much less. Lambda change is done and measured much faster and within same burn cycle. This means the Lambda correction can be set much higher, because the change in AFR is measured instant. I have attached a tuned example.
    4 points
  24. Tim D

    ''Laggy'' software

    At last, my graphics issues are fixed, despite having latest geforce drivers, it was the windows setting for text scaling, it needs to be 100%, not 125%.
    4 points
  25. paulr33

    DIY vipec display

    sorry for delay, had to sort out a few things and fix some bugs, but all working well with my new sensors need to finish the documenation (ive done about 1/3 so far)
    4 points
  26. Hi guys, so I've just put up a new release of PCLink and the firmware. Thanks for your patience with this one You can grab it from here: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way: If you have any questions or issues please post them in this thread.
    4 points
  27. This is a bug. Currently if you use ANV12 or higher for fuel pressure it does not work. We have an update coming shortly that will fix this issue and some others. Scott.
    4 points
  28. Hi everyone, I just want to let everyone know for TECH SUPPORT you can use the following email addresses. Link tech support team email address is available during business hours Monday to Friday and some after hours support from Scott. tech@linkecu.com I also offer tech support, I DO NOT WORK for LINK however offer my assistance 7 days a week including some strange hours when I am awake. I can be emailed at protuning@bigpond.com Please feel free to use these resources as we are here to help. Thanks for using LINK. Regards Dave.
    4 points
  29. Okay so there are a few stages to setting it up. 1. Wiring Run one wire to the knock1 or knock2 wire on the link loom, and one to sensor earth, polarity unimportant. must must must must use shielded wire. The knock sensor outputs a very low voltage signal that's prone to interference. 2. Initial settings Since you are using the 'wideband' knock sensor and an engine with an ~86mm bore has a knock frequency in the ~6khz range select your Freq Channel as 4-10khz Wide Band. Set Ignition Retard limit to 0 degrees. Set the RPM high and low lockouts however you like. (500rpm likely not ideal for the low setting) 3. Cylinder balancing Your knock sensor is mounted closer to one cylinder than the others. It picks up vibrations, so the vibrations from that one cylinder will give a stronger signal than the others. So what you need to do, is hold the motor at say 4000rpm (no load) and check the signal strength of each cylinder. You can check the signal strength by pressing F12 to get to the runtime values screen and looking at these numbers, knock level cyl 1/2/34 See how in that example above, the numbers are 235 / 160 / 255 /145. You need to get these numbers as balanced / equal as possible. You can adjust the values up or down by tweaking the numbers up and down in Knock control > Cyl setup > Cyl 1/2/34 knk level gain Best to start with a value of 1 for the cylinder that's closest to the knock sensor, and increase the other values to suit. If one of the values reaches '2' (maximum) you can reduce some of the other numbers to less than 1. 4. Non knock noise levels Since the knock sensor picks up vibrations, there are of course vibrations happening even when there's no knock. As RPM increases, the amount of 'natural' background noise increases too. The ECU can tell that knock is happening, because there's an unexpected large spike in the 'noise' from the motor around the time of the iginition event. Soooo, you need to find out what the background noise level is for your engine. According to the manual, a 2 row table with full throttle and 0 throttle is sufficient but this is up to you and how long you want to spend on it haha. So head to Knock control > Knock target, right click on the table and select Axis setup to define your table similar to this (if you want) Then you need to run a datalog through the rpm range at full throttle to see what the values are for this table. (and coast back down off throttle for the zero TP target, although I'm guessing not much knock happens at 0% throttle) Open the datalog and bring up a screen to show engine rpm and the knock level global. Knock level global has a maximum value of '1000'. If you find that you are hitting 1000, you need to reduce the Gain Channel number on the main knock sensing setup page to something a bit lower and try again. Remember that the '1000' has to be the maximum even including allowance for knock which is much stronger signal than the background noise so you need to allow headroom for that too. Once you've established these background noise levels for the motor in your table, increase all of the numbers in the table by 20% to give it a bit of a margin against picking up normal engine noise as knock. At this point, because you've set the maximum ignition retard to 0 degrees in your first step, the ECU isnt taking any action against knock. Now that you've got everything setup though (unless I've missed a step here, haha) you can turn the knock sensing on by setting an ignition retard limit here, to say 3 degrees or 5 degrees or whatever you want: Then as per reccomendations from the manual, it's best to test that knock sensing is working under a scenario that minimises risk of damage to your engine. So you could drive along at low load / low rpm and induce knock by creeping the timing forward until it knocks and you can see from the runtime values table (F12) that it's working. From here, it should all be working awesomely. (No responsibility taken for blown up motor though! This is just what has worked for me) Hopefully it all makes sense though Where are you based / what is the car used for? Keen to hear how you get on.
    4 points
  30. Adamw

    Dry sump cold start .

    Do it as part of your normal Oil pressure safety, but set the startup lockout to 0 so it is also working during startup (with road cars usually you dont want it to limit during starting). Suggest fuel cut so you dont flood it. Example below wouldnt allow the engine to start until 30kpa oil pressure was seen (0 RPM limit).
    3 points
  31. mapper

    Normalised knock

    I've helped with development of the new knock normalised mode and done lots of Beta testing. The Knock Normalised Mode has the big benefit that it will adapt to increased noise level, when your engine wear over time and consequently produce more background noise. In tradional mode this will lead to false knock detection. In general speaking Knock Normalised mode will adapt to changing background noise levels and should need less adjustment from engine to engine, once you have a good basemap worked out. It also allows better adjustment how much ignition retard is applied, based on knock level detected. It is meant to use all the tables, which are shown in PC LINK in this mode. I would start with a small Knock Target Table. Break points every 1000rpm and on y-axis every 50kpa (boosted engine) should be sufficient. A filled table of 2.0 should be a good to starting point. During transient engine operation the knock levels are going higher. In the tradional mode lockouts for delta rpm and tps where set. In Knock Normalised Mode it is meant to use all the Knock Transient Tables to keep knock control active all the time. The Knock Normalised Levels will increase even more, during transient operation, than in traditional mode. The idea with all the transient threshold tables is to increase temporarly the knock treshold, instead of just deactivating knock control. As a starting point fill the Knock Normalised MAP and RPM Delta Level tables with factor 1.5. The Knock Normalised Delta RPM and RPM threshold defines when the knock multiplicator above is applied. Setting is very dependand how stable your knock engine speed ROC and knock Map Delta channels are. If there are too noisy you can apply more filter to get this channel(s) smoothed. I recommend the following order for setup and tuning. 1. setup function as suggested above 2. adjust knock noise filter (same process as in tradional mode) 3. calibrate knock target table in steady state conditions 4. calibrate all knock transient tables, so knock target is little above knock levels in all knock free transient condions. Notes: - you can calibrate knock input filter also in tradional knock mode. This setting will be the same in both modes. - it is normal behavior that knock normalised levels go higher during transient than in steady state operation - as always when you calibrate knock detection system use knock ears! - Important knock level detected must be logged with internal logger with at least 200hz (better more) to show peak values correct in PC Link
    3 points
  32. Gregconboy158

    Unhappy

    To jump in on this I've always felt the advice and guidance from the team (Adam) to be 2nd to none, I've always had the help and resolutions I've needed and would in turn recommend link to anyone.
    3 points
  33. The pressure compensation is non-linear and applied to the pump current before conversion to lambda (also non-linear) so it is a fairly complex relationship, generally done with look up tables. I suspect that RBR calulator linked above uses some simplified equation as it seems to give very optimistic results for the NTK sensor. They are typically about 4 x more sensitive to pressure than the LSU4.9 in my experience. For the LSU4.9 there are a few slight variations of the pressure compensation curve but this is the one that is generally used from what I have seen: So a couple of examples (not properly calculated, just eyeballed from graphs): Observed lambda measured with un-compensated meter = 0.80. If exhaust pressure was 150kpa absolute when measurement was taken then the actual lambda would have been about 0.81 If exhaust pressure was 250kpa absolute then actual lambda would be about 0.83
    3 points
  34. I get that Link are a relatively small company, with limited resources. I'm not expecting large features to be back-ported, but there are a number of longstanding known bugs and issues with the G4+ range (cruise active light, as one simple example that directly affects me), and we feel abandoned, because there's something new and shiny, and existing features on our product aren't working properly. I'm intrigued to see the new advances coming in the G4x range, and I might be tempted to upgrade in the future, but I'm currently wary about upgrading and having another issue that's left unresolved, as I've found has happened to me with the G4+.
    3 points
  35. Hi all, I just wanted to congratulate the team at LINK on a truly stunning upgrade to their WEBSITE. The colours and the layout etc really catch the eye. Very pleasant to scan through the pages. The format is very well laid out. Also not just the WEBSITE, but the company and products in general. I have been with LINK as a user and dealer since the conception of ViPEC and it has been sure great to be part of and also a witness to the transformation and growth of an already great product and company to a world leader in the Electronic Fuel Injection Industry. I have also really enjoyed working with the LINK team over all of these years and hope to continue doing so. So congratulations LINK and very well done. Keep going on this fantastic journey. Regards Dave Kriedeman PRO TUNING.
    3 points
  36. Simon

    G4x Base map

    Yep Multi fuel and traction control will be coming
    3 points
  37. Hey everyone, I know you've been hanging out for this one. PCLink Version 5.6.6 3564 (DLL rev 3544) 15/08/2018 New Features Right Mouse Click on a time plot to add a marker or section. File Directory tab in Options window lets the user specify a folder to always load from/save to Hinged axis titles in Surface View. Locked Surface view (similar to old surface view behaviour) Chinese language added coming soon Spanish language added also coming soon Changes Some lists have had their default layout changed (alphabetical still works) Minor improvements to the Logging Setup window. Minor improvements to parameter selection. Improved b marker drawing on the time plot. Changed how parameter colours are named (see Parameter Menu and Setting up a Dial Gauges Runtime Values for details). Improved consistency of keyboard shortcut keys across PCLink. Searching CAN Parameters now takes into account transmit/receive filter. Fixes Fixed few bugs with saving log files and holding F8 key. Fixed bug in Aux Output where Diff Fuel Pressure was not triggering correctly. Fixed bug with compare file and cell colours not changing. Fixed bug where PCLink would crash if the computer (laptop) was put to sleep. Fixed Cal tables 1-3 from wrapping around when output table start is set to a -ve number. FP Speed Table now resizes correctly when double clicked. DI14 now displays wheel speed label properly. Imperial units in table axis setup improved. Surface Graph fixed for Nvidia graphics chipsets. G4+ Firmware Version 5.6.6.3557 – 15/08/2018 New Features Added trigger modes for LS2 with moved cam sensor, Rover K series with CAM sync, Nissan VQ35HR and Mitsubishi Colt 4g15. Added Astra CAN mode. Added Single-Point Every TDC Injection Mode to activate all injectors on every TDC for throttle body injection kits. Added CAN stream for Link AIM MXS Strada Dash. Changes Added 3D tables option to Closed Loop Lambda FTrim Limit. Added options to GPOutputs. Added Cruise Control power toggle switch mode. Fixes Remove unused settings from Kurofune and Monsoon. CLL dual channel mode now controls the second bank. AFR average is now averaged correctly. Add 3D Secondary Injection Deadtime table. Fuel Pump FP table now interpolates correctly. Knock Control High RPM lockout has been increased. Gear Status can now be written from CAN input. Fuel pump mode “80Hz 33/66/100 %DC” now reports duty cycle correctly. Cylinders 9-12 now trigger injectors when configured as Semi-Sequential Injection. Solenoid Idle Speed Control now shows status correctly. Stepper Idle Speed Control now stops at the Minimum Clamp. As always, make sure you save your basemap, do the firmware update, load your basemap, then do a compare to check changes. https://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ Post any issues you have here, rather than starting new threads, or my favourite, at the bottom of a completely unrelated thread.
    3 points
  38. I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
    3 points
  39. this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
    3 points
  40. Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
    3 points
  41. Here you go: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPn3zpsxhdV-DI1p5D
    3 points
  42. mapper

    Wire schematic

    Hi To speed up wiring and diagnostic I would like to have a function that outputs a list, a schematic, and a picture of the connectors with all labels of all configured (assigned) in- and outputs. On top of that many smart things could be implemented like an auto updated complete wiring schematic in an easy understandable format(e.g MS Visio style). These things can speed up install time and wiring a lot, which sets barrier lower to switch to a standalone ECU. possible examples attached.
    3 points
  43. Hi Adam, Just to close this off i spent a lot of time trying everything to catch the stall - as i said the gain and anti stall did zip from max to min values. It really needed a dashpot style fall to idle - which when ethrottle is setup the hold table is removed. I managed to create a vitual dashpot using a virtual auxillary triggering a timer and that timer controlling a slowed return to idle using the 3D idle table. Works very well and might be something others could use if they have a similar problem. My engine has a very light flywheel and two charger bypasses and 550cc under runner injectors, big cam, remote ethrottle body, head flowed to hell and back etc etc etc all on a 1565cc engine so the combination is probably hard to tune but this made it very well behaved. Have attached the tune in case anyone else has a similar problem. Thanks again Adam and please pass on thanks to the engineers, support etc as the g4+ really is excellent. BR Renault R8 with v-dashpot.pclr
    3 points
  44. Good morning everybody, Last night we released a new PCLink and Firmware, I updated this thread but it didn't stick (weird eh?) Thanks for your patience with the 5.6.2 to 5.6.5 update-requiring-ECU unlock bug. Thanks Davidv for his work around. I'll leave these notes attached because they're still quite relevant to this release: As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way:
    3 points
  45. orlando bello

    Link G4+ Tablet view

    windows 10 tablet . B4 and after .thanks for the awesome Link software.
    3 points
  46. After doing a bit of research recently into running a tablet as the primary dash for my car here's some thoughts... Hardware: For the older Windows tablets using Micro usb you should be wary of any claims of being able to charge and have a device connected, a lot of descriptions of the adapter cables are wrong as it totally depends on the tablet, so make sure you do your research first, if in doubt it likely doesn't support both at same time. However I believe the new tablets which support USB C may be better in this regard, again do your research first. Performance of PcLink on lower speced windows tablets (1.3ghz quad cpu, 1gig ram etc) is actually very good, PcLink will be very slow as the software initially connects to the ecu, and the display wont respond for a good 10 seconds, but once it syncs up it works perfectly. Here's my 8 Inch acer tablet with Windows 10 and PcLink with different layouts Because I could not charge and display data at same time I just ran it on battery, it lasted for a good 5-6 hours which was impressive. To me there's no point in having a tablet that can't charge and display so I replaced the above with a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 (2 usb ports, 10 inch) with Windows 10 and PcLink This charges and runs at the same time which is perfect. Setup: Setting up PcLink for the tablets is a bit of a pain as PcLink doesn't support touch very well. The easiest way is to have another pc with PcLink running and do the setup on that then transfer the layout files across. Your best to set the resolution of the display on your laptop to match the tablet as otherwise positioning of elements is very hit and miss (especially with high res displays) the ThinkPad I brought has a pen which made resizing and moving elements actually doable on the tablet. Note there is an issue with PcLink and some tablets (My acer one doesn't have this issue) where they throw a "Access violation at address 00000000 in module 'PCLink.exe'. Read pf address 0000000." same as this thread http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6144-access-violation-at-address-00000000-in-module-pclinkexe-read-pf-address-0000000/ It appears to be to do with the 3d chart display and it's very frustrating as PcLink is unrunnable as it triggers the error when ever you open PcLink and when it occurs it stops PcLink from working correctly. You can work around this by running PcLink on a normal pc, getting rid of the default layout with a simpler one then copying the entire folder "C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+" directly to your tablet (this means the software wont try and load the default link layouts which cause the crash). Once you have done this then you can just import layout files as normal (just make sure you use non 3d gauges). Hopefully they fix this at some point (even if it's just disabling 3d charts rather then crashing). As an aside PcLink is inconsistent with how it handles limits on displays, i.e analogue vs digital are configured in different sections of the app, Once you realise this then configuring it's not to hard, however I still haven't found a way yet to get rid of the decimal point on the km/h. PcLink has options for automatically going full screen, and auto connecting which are easily turned on through the menu. Then in windows I have set it as a start up app so it opens automatically, and have changed the user account to go straight to desktop rather the sign in screen (this is a bit more work involving regedit, guides can be found online for both). Realworld Performance: You can see me using my 8 inch tablet in a race here (fully on battery). It performed flawlessly, however as you can see in the video glare is an issue with these tablets (visibility was ok from the drivers seat but could be better), so if using as your main dash then a hood/cover is something you want to look into fitting.
    3 points
  47. Simon

    knock detection device

    Finally after far to long we have some recordings off the G4+ KnockBlock These recordings are off our well abused 1UZFE VVT test engine. Engine background noise.m4a Mild Knock with bad tune.m4a Severe Knock with bad tune.m4a
    3 points
  48. Hi warmup, this is certainly a good idea, and is currently on our request list.
    3 points
  49. Scott

    g4 tablet dash

    You can configure the look of PCLink however you like, but doing it on a tablet could be tricky. One solution would be to design your layout on a laptop/PC, save the layout file (Layout > Save Layout File As..) and then email it to the tablet and then open it in PCLink on the tablet. When it comes to actual design of the layout, you can add new pages by clicking Layout > New Page. You can add a gauge wherever you want one by right clicking in some available space and then selecting the gauge type you want.
    3 points
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