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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/27/2020 in Posts

  1. Gregconboy158

    Unhappy

    To jump in on this I've always felt the advice and guidance from the team (Adam) to be 2nd to none, I've always had the help and resolutions I've needed and would in turn recommend link to anyone.
    2 points
  2. wastegate

    Unhappy

    Personally I think Adam and the team does a wonderful job of helping people get their shittas running. In fact I've seen a number of times Adam (sorry to single you out) has gone above and beyond to help. You have to remember that these guys (non gender version) make and support the ECU. Getting the engine and systems working with the ECU comes down to who is putting in the numbers into the ECU. It's not on Link to get it running and tuned for you. Some people keep bring up this whole thing about them feel abandoned on G4+. It's EOL, new version now with better features and faster C
    2 points
  3. I have had my Link Extreme running in this 1969 Mustang for over a year now. I finally was able to get on a Dyno and do some real tuning. This thing made an effortless 800whp and 677ft lbs on only 17 psi of boost and a very conservative 19° of timing.
    1 point
  4. Reading through the notes of the recent changes to temp input capabilities it does look like the intent was to allow the temp inputs to be used in this way, but I think pressures may have been overlooked. I will get this on the list to have another look at. In the mean time the work around would be to do it via a GP input and math block like below. I know, a bit of a ball ache...
    1 point
  5. Of course -- everything in moderation. I was lucky enough one time to have the state run emissions testing station near me allow me to make changes on the spot to the tune until it passed (they weren't busy that day).
    1 point
  6. Here you go. MXS Strada - Eryin HKS CT230R FURY + EGT.zconfig
    1 point
  7. This went up late last week: PC Link Downloads | Link Engine Management Release Notes: https://www.linkecu.com/pclink/Link Engine Management PC Link G4X Updates 26112020.pdf Known issue with the drivers, see here: https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/13145-ftd2xxdll-is-missing/
    1 point
  8. I finally got to the bottom of the issue. The meter movement was the cause of the needle rising when power would be applied to the tach controller. I think in the process of me replacing the signal resistor I bumped meter movement out of calibration. I made a complete video on how to fix it and how to adjust the tachometer range: https://youtu.be/y2TRMWldaQA
    1 point
  9. File below will do it without much work. Assign all the IO to match your wiring, and maybe some adjustment of the master fuel will be about all it needs. 1JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr
    1 point
  10. Ok mate to easy I’ll have a browse tonight and see what I can sort out when I’m able to get to my computer and car.. thanks for the input mate appreciate it
    1 point
  11. Adamw

    Unhappy

    Sorry had some surgery this morning so my head is still a bit hazy from the sedation, but have you checked the base timing now with the engine running? Have you tried adjusting the master fuel up and down while running to see if it runs any cleaner when you move in one direction? You have 0deg in your ignition table so not many engines will be happy at that, try 10 or 15 at idle, ramping to 30 by about 3000 as a starting point.
    1 point
  12. Adamw

    Unhappy

    You dont have barely any fuel going in still. You master fuel is still only set to 2. Most likely it will need to be somewhere around 10-20. Also your fuel table just has a flat 7 in it. Typical fuel table numbers would be more like 30-100. Import the fuel table I have attached below. will be a closer starting point. And, as I have said earlier in your other post you need to increase the dwell, the MSD's dont work reliably with 1.0ms at low speeds. 2.0 would be the bare minimum I would use. The trigger errors are most likely due to the ecu having trouble detecting the missing t
    1 point
  13. This is why I suggested you connect it via CAN in the first place. But anyhow, it seems you also have the calibration set up wrong since the ECU is reading backwards compared to the signal. Lower voltage should mean lower AFR but yours is going the opposite way. Please attach your tune and I will take a look.
    1 point
  14. Koracing was talking about the hold power keep alive time. This is how long the ECU stays powered up for after you turn ignition off to allow the idle motor to reset to its home position. 5 or 10 seconds will do for a WRX.
    1 point
  15. Adamw

    Unhappy

    Can you attach your most recent tune. And a log of it cranking again.
    1 point
  16. Adamw

    Unhappy

    An engine needs fuel, spark and compression to run. You said when it wont run the timing light still flashes, so that mostly eliminates spark as the problem. We can assume it has compression and is mechanically sound as you say it runs sometimes so we can cross that one off the list for now. So, the most obvious factor left is fuel. We can see in the log the ecu is commanding the injectors to fire, but this doesnt always mean there is fuel getting in to the combustion chamber. The commanded PW is very short in your log which is why I asked you to increase the master, not sure if you done
    1 point
  17. Here is the logic I used, seem to work. 25s on cold start, 5s on hot restart.
    1 point
  18. I would also make sure to use a RPM level so that your wideband doesn't just light up 20 seconds after key on if you were sitting there without the engine running.
    1 point
  19. Adamw

    Evo IX vs Link G4+

    Try the file below. I have made some changes to the idle speed control settings as well as idle ignition. Idle base position table may now not be perfect for cold start/fast idle since there was no cold running in the logs, but you can adjust that yourself later. The E-throttle oscillation means the PID is not correct. I have lowered Proportional and Integral a little, see if this helps. The launch control is not disarming because you need a "non-driven" wheel speed assigned. I have now assigned that in the speed sources menu so that should work now. You can use the f
    1 point
  20. I would lean towards the Xtreme in your case. Yes, it can run any engine from 1-12cylinders. The S13 plug-in ecu only has 6 injector drives available on the board and no e-throttle outputs available on the board so that will limit you if for instance you choose to go to a LSx or whatever. It would still be able to run a V8, but injectors would not be fired sequential.
    1 point
  21. What size are your injectors? The Pre crank prime is in milliseconds, so the values there will vary depending on injector size.
    1 point
  22. add crank enrichment. a fair bit. you want it to fire first to know it is the crank enrich at play, if it takes ages to fire it is normally crank enrich. E85 ends up with large numbers for cold crank enrichment, so don't be scared of big numbers in the lower temps.
    1 point
  23. Can anyone confirm that mapper's method is still relevant? Nothing changed in subsequent versions that would disrupt?
    1 point
  24. This will make checking and setting up the knock settings without needing to plug an external knock sensor and/or extra equipment. Knock audio function is already there. Of course this requires some bandwidth (not really much see below) but USB 3.0 or disabling logging channels to the rescue. For 32khz mono 16bit = 32000 * 16 * 1 = 512 kbps or 64 KB/s which is not much If the electronics required don't exist on current ECU's (i don't know about G4X, i only have G4+) you may consider implementing it in the future. Kind regards
    1 point
  25. I have a G4+ Fury installed in my race car with sequential gearbox. The ecu is awesome and all work very good. I need only a few clarification about the Sequential Shift Parameters/setting . As i mentioned before, i use the ecu to do the Shift cut for my Sequential Gearbox in Closed loop mode with Loadcell Knob and Gearposition sensor with Ignition cut % set at 90% and a Ignition Reatard at -15° for reintroducing torque strategy at 20 mS. In the Last weekend i tested them on track and when i do the Upshift strategy i have a big bang in the exhaust . it's normal because i cut the igni
    1 point
  26. Its not an easy one to answer and not usually something I wouldnt suggest, it can become quite a challange to make everything work happily. If you only do fuel and ignition it wont be so bad but there will still be a couple of issues to overcome such as a CE light since CLL wont be doing what the OEM ecu expects. sometimes there are reflashing options to disable some of these faults. The more control you take, the more difficult it becomes. You really want the Link controlling E-throttle since idle control etc wont work well when the factory ecu doesnt have control of ignition. But th
    0 points
  27. Craig chung

    E36 m50

    0 points
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