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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/27/2020 in Posts

  1. Hi, My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun. I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom. This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine.
    6 points
  2. Adamw

    PC Link New Layouts

    Hi All, The default layouts in the current G4+ PC Link are pretty dated, I recently done a couple of new ones that will be included as the defaults in the next PC Link update. But in the meantime here they are so you can use them now. FYI, if you use both G4+ and G4X ecus and you have highly customised layouts, you can copy the same layout into both PC Link versions by just changing the file extension. G4+ extension is .llg and G4X uses .llgx. Feel free to add to this post if you have any layouts you want to share. 1366 x 768.llf 1920 x1080.llf
    6 points
  3. Thats not a nice way how you say that. On every product you buy the updates stops someday and you have to invest in the new generation unit if you want get all the recent features. Besides I'm 100% sure you would have been in the same situation with the other ECU manufacturer. And if your fuel table is properly tuned, there is no need for long term fuel trims. I recommend to use Mixture Map.
    5 points
  4. Not super fancy, but I use a math block to filter my speed signal with the average function (av). Works really well.
    4 points
  5. orlando bello

    Engine protection

    Would like to have more gp protection rpm limits tables. Not only rpm limit but also warnings under conditions.warning pop up on dash .
    4 points
  6. mldc

    Water Pump PWM

    Hello, Did some testing, results are below. Pump: Any pump CWA50, CWA200 or CWA400 would work with these settings. We use CWA200. Wiring: 1 - wired 12V from the PMU16, 25A channel. 2 - wired Aux high state signal. 3 - wired to ecu signal gnd. 4 - simple chassis GND. ECU settings: 50% on cranking is for waking up the pump. After that, You can use higher values then 50%. If your idle is lower then 1000 RPM, adjust the PWM table axis and values to suit your application. Results: Our race car working temperature is 70
    4 points
  7. Gregconboy158

    Unhappy

    To jump in on this I've always felt the advice and guidance from the team (Adam) to be 2nd to none, I've always had the help and resolutions I've needed and would in turn recommend link to anyone.
    3 points
  8. The pressure compensation is non-linear and applied to the pump current before conversion to lambda (also non-linear) so it is a fairly complex relationship, generally done with look up tables. I suspect that RBR calulator linked above uses some simplified equation as it seems to give very optimistic results for the NTK sensor. They are typically about 4 x more sensitive to pressure than the LSU4.9 in my experience. For the LSU4.9 there are a few slight variations of the pressure compensation curve but this is the one that is generally used from what I have seen: So a couple
    3 points
  9. I get that Link are a relatively small company, with limited resources. I'm not expecting large features to be back-ported, but there are a number of longstanding known bugs and issues with the G4+ range (cruise active light, as one simple example that directly affects me), and we feel abandoned, because there's something new and shiny, and existing features on our product aren't working properly. I'm intrigued to see the new advances coming in the G4x range, and I might be tempted to upgrade in the future, but I'm currently wary about upgrading and having another issue that's
    3 points
  10. Hi all, I just wanted to congratulate the team at LINK on a truly stunning upgrade to their WEBSITE. The colours and the layout etc really catch the eye. Very pleasant to scan through the pages. The format is very well laid out. Also not just the WEBSITE, but the company and products in general. I have been with LINK as a user and dealer since the conception of ViPEC and it has been sure great to be part of and also a witness to the transformation and growth of an already great product and company to a world leader in the Electronic Fuel Injection Industry.
    3 points
  11. It would be nice to be able to bound the max and min duty for idle control (3 wire pwm in particular) to vary either by some amount above and below the base position, or by a coolant or possibly other axis variable. It sometimes has been a bit of a hassle to get the idle, return to idle, startup, etc. all to work as smooth as I would like (granted most of the cars I'm using these on are 30 +/- years old now), and it just seems like this would aid in dialing this in a little quicker.
    2 points
  12. Disagree, Link already has a whole bench of different wire in ECU's, like no other manufacturer. Price diff is not that biig between Furry and Thunder to add another one. 2x DBW and only 1x Lambda does not make sense in most applications. Thats my oppinion.
    2 points
  13. Is now available on the Link website here: https://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ Mostly bug fixes, but more complete release notes here: http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/Link Engine Management PC Link Updates October 2020.pdf
    2 points
  14. mapper

    Normalised knock

    I've helped with development of the new knock normalised mode and done lots of Beta testing. The Knock Normalised Mode has the big benefit that it will adapt to increased noise level, when your engine wear over time and consequently produce more background noise. In tradional mode this will lead to false knock detection. In general speaking Knock Normalised mode will adapt to changing background noise levels and should need less adjustment from engine to engine, once you have a good basemap worked out. It also allows better adjustment how much ignition retard is applied, based on knock
    2 points
  15. wastegate

    Unhappy

    Personally I think Adam and the team does a wonderful job of helping people get their shittas running. In fact I've seen a number of times Adam (sorry to single you out) has gone above and beyond to help. You have to remember that these guys (non gender version) make and support the ECU. Getting the engine and systems working with the ECU comes down to who is putting in the numbers into the ECU. It's not on Link to get it running and tuned for you. Some people keep bring up this whole thing about them feel abandoned on G4+. It's EOL, new version now with better features and faster C
    2 points
  16. Knox

    G4X 2D launch control

    Thanks, I make driven wheel speed source to gp speed 1 (like driving wheels) and 3d mode with single axis like Vaughan wrote and works perfect now.
    2 points
  17. Relatively confident we have a solution for this unfortunately it does require a hardware change, Units will need to come in to the nearest office for the work to be done.
    2 points
  18. Thats a typo you have found there sorry, I will get that fixed up. Corrected note below. So yes you can use A8/Aux 8 & A11/Aux 7 for what ever you wish and you dont need to worry about A9/10.
    2 points
  19. 2 points
  20. Adamw

    Porsche 951 Crank sensor.

    The two with the 960 ohm resistance between them are your ground and signal. The ground connects to the white wire and the signal to the black. If you dont have any documentation to show which is +/- then sometimes it can be determined with a basic multimeter test - I will explain that in more detail below. The third pin is the shield for the sensor pigtail, connect this to the bare drain wire in the link loom. Multimeter test to determine VR sensor polarity: Set multimeter to DC mV. Connect the positive MM lead to one of the pins and the negative to the other. Hold a piece
    2 points
  21. @Gsab I've been visiting this forum every day for a couple of years now, and have been reading every new thread that's posted, and I agree - you can learn a LOT about how the ECU works just by doing so, and also HUGE respect to @Adamw for his professionalism and patience (even when he didn't work for Link for a while - I think he's back officially now?) - especially when, as you said, most people do not come back to say thanks! It reminds me a little of this: XKCD: Wisdom of the Ancients One thing I don't like about Haltech is that they discourage you from using the
    2 points
  22. Logic level would be a few milliamp only - enough to drive a transistor. In the plug-in ecus where Inj7/8 are used as aux outputs, a circuit like below is fitted to the bottom board.
    2 points
  23. Average knock level to help adjust gain between cylinder.
    2 points
  24. There are definitely plans in the future to investigate other comms options for the next generation of ecu's, but with G4X we have stuck with USB so that PC Link didnt need a complete re-write as well (Months, if not years of work for our small team). The comms chipset that is in the G4X is capable of native high speed USB 2.0 as well - not only the virtual com port system that is being used at present so in theory it has the potential to be very fast. I believe this is being worked on. Ethernet is nice and robust, resilient to noise and makes wireless easy, but it has some significant n
    2 points
  25. wastegate

    IS300 can issues

    Hi, I have a IS300 myself, although not running the xcessive/panicwire pnp kit, I repinned my loom to the right headers to suit. I don't have any issues.. It sounds like to me that the MPX isn't wired correctly on your loom and/or not going to where it suppose to go. Since you are using the IS300 2JZ loom, and using the panicwire patch loom, Check out pins E-5 (MPX1) and E-12 (MPX2) on the Link/Altezza header side loom, , make sure they are connected to the body loom and goto the body computer. On the IS300 loom side they "should" be connected to E4-21 (MPX1) E4-20 (MPX2). I'd unplug the
    2 points
  26. Adamw

    CLL settings

    Sorry for the slow reply. Yes, it looks like a bug. I will pass it on to engineering.
    2 points
  27. Have found and fixed the bug, new version should be up on the website soon
    2 points
  28. I think some people need to be speaking to the dealers that sold them the G4+ ecus knowing fine well they were going to be superceded. I was all set to get a G4+ in Feb it was Paul @ TCB who actually told me to wait for the G4X
    2 points
  29. Thank you guys! It is nice to see new features coming.
    2 points
  30. I think it is interesting technology when you look at prospects of closed loop peak cyl pressure angle control, but I think that is still a long way off the aftermarket world. As for ion current knock control, it is not very useful in anything but OEM applications, there are just too many combustion irregularities to allow it to be implemented in a DIY scenario. On the moderm BMW's with it for instance even a small change to the fuel mixture completely upsets it.
    2 points
  31. The ground wires on the Link looms are 18awg, 120°C rated, so will handle about 15A each. Obviously my 60A example was stating the worst case example so that you or anyone else that reads this post in future has good information to base their decisions on. It would be very rare in real life to ever have a scenario where every output is running at 100% DC all at the same time but with power wiring it is important to consider what you have connected, the maximum DC/loads, the wire lengths, the insulation temperature rating and the amount of voltage drop that you consider is acceptable. I have
    2 points
  32. Dave, this is an older MXS, not the 1.2 we sell. It doesnt look like they have updated the CAN stream in it. Even if I create a new MXS config from scratch in the latest RS3 the ECU stream version is still v00.00.01. In the MXS 1.2 the can version is V02.00.05
    2 points
  33. Here you go. Freshly out of my car. The calibration process is very easy the new way. Hats off for that. Not sure how the 4 offsets/teeth came for you.
    2 points
  34. Adamw

    Cranking time

    For the subaru example the Link ECU may take up to 720deg to sync, the factory ECU may have done something more sophisticated with the extra missing teeth which would allow it to sync in wasted spark mode within 180deg. For the honda with no missing teeth the link should sync within the same amount of time as the factory ecu as there are no special tricks they can do with that basic trigger pattern. So for the honda, most likely a tune issue, for the subaru it will possibly never be as good as the factory startup.
    2 points
  35. Ducie54

    Cranking time

    Add pre prime fuel or increase it. Try lowering your injector timing table values, and make sure fuel rail volume does not drain back to the tank as it will take longer to build fuel pressure.
    2 points
  36. Davidv

    dashboard arduino

    Forget about the CanID you really need to think about Frame ID instead. Your frame ID takes up one of the bytes in the message. So in this example below, it is Frame number 13 . When this can frame is received by your teensy, you need to look a that first byte to tell you which frame it is. If the number is 13, then you know that your values in the frame are Inj timing, Ign Angle, and Inlet / LH target. So you can update those values.
    2 points
  37. Thank you very much The Link G4X ecu I put on a 2004 subaru forester 2.0 XT with single AVCS and I convert to DBW ,I will come back with all the details of the work I am doing to help anyone who needs it
    2 points
  38. All flex fuel sensors do that. The signal is a PWM, the Ethanol % is the frequency and the temp is DC or pulse width. You just set the DI to "ethanol sensor" and both Ethanol % and temp will be available in the ECU.
    2 points
  39. I have a couple of customers with the 1.8 VVT engine, they run great on the LinkG4+ wiring ecu. And they upgrade from the MS ECU actually, one of them because of a faulty regulator on the alternator. Without warning the alternator start to make spikes of voltage, and burn the MS ecu... We wire in the Link (without knowing about the problem), after just a few seconds of the first start, the engine shutdown. Looking at the log, we saw voltage of over 18V, the ecu cut the fuel and save everything, the ecu never burn like the MS. I have work with MS ecu, and have customers with them on, I really d
    2 points
  40. A little update. This issue has come back where the car will be idle'ing perfectly fine and all of the sudden the car just shuts off. I've noticed a few things as I was watching the computer while the issues occurred. In my most recent occurrence the car would hit ECT of 180, go rich and die out. I initially thought it was something to do with my post start but didnt make complete sense as the car was out of Post Start. Then checked Warm-Up Enrichment. This was my next logical progression as the car might be looking for a little fuel adjustment? so I copied my values from th
    2 points
  41. I don't have any experience with that particular motor but you should just need to connect your trigger 1 to the crank sensor (I assume the 1.8vvt motor has a crank trigger unlike the earlier 1.6 with cam sensors only) and trigger 2 to your cam sensor. Connect an aux (one of aux1-10, aux ign5-8 or aux inj5-8) and a switched power wire to the vvt solenoid. That should be all you need to do specifically for the vvt wiring. You might have to add wires to the loom for inj3&4 to run sequential fuel as they are connected to the ECU header but the earlier vehicles don't use them and so might
    2 points
  42. Adamw

    AVCS

    No, I used to think the same - it would be easier to use MAP for the VVT load axis as then it has more relationship to your VE table and it would then be easier to account for the change in VE due to cam position. But, as I have been doing more VVT recently I have learnt that theory is not true and it is better to use TP for the VVT load axis. The reason is that cam timing significantly affects the MAP, so if you have MAP as an axis on your VVT table, then in some situations you get the cam becoming unstable bouncing backwards and forwards because it is both affecting MAP and controlled
    2 points
  43. Ducie54

    Target afr protection

    A basic setup but you get the idea.
    2 points
  44. Also, if you press the H key on your keyboard, that will enable colours on the table - these sharp transitions should stick out like a sore thumb, as you'll not get a nice smooth gradient, but a sharp transition from green to red in this case.
    2 points
  45. The GM sensor uses the same calibration as the link sensor so you dont need to change anything. If you are still getting a t2 @ 5V error that means the ecu is not seeing any sensor connected (open circuit). It could be a bad connection or dead sensor. You can confirm the sensor is good with a multimeter, it should measure around 3000-3500ohms at typical room temperature.
    2 points
  46. You are correct, spark duration and arc duration are the same thing. In your case this setting may only just start to come into play a high rpm. The spark duration setting usually only comes in to play when you have a distributor with single coil and more than 4 cylinders. It is used to shorten the dwell at high RPM when there is not enough time to both charge the coil and spark for the full duration. As an example think of a V8 with a distributor running at 6000RPM. At 6000RPM one engine cycle (two crank revs) takes 20ms. All 8 cylinders have to fire in that time. Lets s
    2 points
  47. Here's a quick video to give you an example. Gear shift knock.mp4
    2 points
  48. You can connect both 5v and 12v sensors (and VR sensors etc that have varying voltage output) all to the same sensor ground. The reason to chose 1 type of ground over another is not input voltage, but more: 1) how stable does the signal need to be for the engine to run well (crank trigger = really important, any of the temp sensors = not a big issue if the signal bounces around a few percent). And as part of this, will a ground offset cause an incorrect reading that still looks legit. (eg voltage offset on any analog sensor) 2) How much load is expected to go through the ground
    2 points
  49. I had time to play with this today. It looks like you can make it work as is. In the ECU's that dont have the serial data stream settings visible In PC link, it seems that the "requested short" data stream method is enabled by default. Realdash is compatible with that. In PC Link set the baud to 57600. In Realdash set the baud the same and set it to "use short datastream". Let me know if it works for you. I tested it on a couple of my test ecu's and it seemed to work.
    2 points
  50. Hi, to put things into an easier perspective, if you use MGP as your axis you will have true Barometric compensation, if you just use MAP the baro comp will not be applied and you may have mixture issues at altitude. Regards Dave.
    2 points
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