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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/06/2018 in all areas

  1. Adamw

    PC Link New Layouts

    Hi All, The default layouts in the current G4+ PC Link are pretty dated, I recently done a couple of new ones that will be included as the defaults in the next PC Link update. But in the meantime here they are so you can use them now. FYI, if you use both G4+ and G4X ecus and you have highly customised layouts, you can copy the same layout into both PC Link versions by just changing the file extension. G4+ extension is .llg and G4X uses .llgx. Feel free to add to this post if you have any layouts you want to share. 1366 x 768.llf 1920 x1080.llf
    6 points
  2. Thats not a nice way how you say that. On every product you buy the updates stops someday and you have to invest in the new generation unit if you want get all the recent features. Besides I'm 100% sure you would have been in the same situation with the other ECU manufacturer. And if your fuel table is properly tuned, there is no need for long term fuel trims. I recommend to use Mixture Map.
    5 points
  3. Hi, My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun. I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom. This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine.
    4 points
  4. Not super fancy, but I use a math block to filter my speed signal with the average function (av). Works really well.
    4 points
  5. orlando bello

    Engine protection

    Would like to have more gp protection rpm limits tables. Not only rpm limit but also warnings under conditions.warning pop up on dash .
    4 points
  6. mldc

    Water Pump PWM

    Hello, Did some testing, results are below. Pump: Any pump CWA50, CWA200 or CWA400 would work with these settings. We use CWA200. Wiring: 1 - wired 12V from the PMU16, 25A channel. 2 - wired Aux high state signal. 3 - wired to ecu signal gnd. 4 - simple chassis GND. ECU settings: 50% on cranking is for waking up the pump. After that, You can use higher values then 50%. If your idle is lower then 1000 RPM, adjust the PWM table axis and values to suit your application. Results: Our race car working temperature is 70
    4 points
  7. Gregconboy158

    Unhappy

    To jump in on this I've always felt the advice and guidance from the team (Adam) to be 2nd to none, I've always had the help and resolutions I've needed and would in turn recommend link to anyone.
    3 points
  8. The pressure compensation is non-linear and applied to the pump current before conversion to lambda (also non-linear) so it is a fairly complex relationship, generally done with look up tables. I suspect that RBR calulator linked above uses some simplified equation as it seems to give very optimistic results for the NTK sensor. They are typically about 4 x more sensitive to pressure than the LSU4.9 in my experience. For the LSU4.9 there are a few slight variations of the pressure compensation curve but this is the one that is generally used from what I have seen: So a couple
    3 points
  9. I get that Link are a relatively small company, with limited resources. I'm not expecting large features to be back-ported, but there are a number of longstanding known bugs and issues with the G4+ range (cruise active light, as one simple example that directly affects me), and we feel abandoned, because there's something new and shiny, and existing features on our product aren't working properly. I'm intrigued to see the new advances coming in the G4x range, and I might be tempted to upgrade in the future, but I'm currently wary about upgrading and having another issue that's
    3 points
  10. Hi all, I just wanted to congratulate the team at LINK on a truly stunning upgrade to their WEBSITE. The colours and the layout etc really catch the eye. Very pleasant to scan through the pages. The format is very well laid out. Also not just the WEBSITE, but the company and products in general. I have been with LINK as a user and dealer since the conception of ViPEC and it has been sure great to be part of and also a witness to the transformation and growth of an already great product and company to a world leader in the Electronic Fuel Injection Industry.
    3 points
  11. Simon

    G4x Base map

    For those looking for a base map to have a play with. Software can be found at http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink 6.15.15.exe Monsoon FW 6.15.6.pclx
    3 points
  12. So this afternoon I sat at the simulator and started mucking about with a few ideas. I wanted to calculate my average speed based on some event, I used a digital input latching on. In the UK we have average speed camera zones, you get snapped at the start and end and they do a distance over time calculation. Often you'll get slowed down by a Karen in an X5 not paying attention, I've always been curious how much I could safely speed up again to catch back up to 50 mph average over the trip. You can do this in log analysis with the statistics view, but this is obviously operating at run
    3 points
  13. Ducie54

    G4x Base map

    As a feature request can we have the option on which Lambda sensor is used for CLL. As example I'm using 5 lambda sensors. One in the turbo dump pipe and 4 in the turbo manifold using a CAN module. The software uses a average for CLL but would be nice to use Lambda one so manifold pressure is not an influence. Currently to get around this from happening I've set the 4 CAN lambdas as CAN TC.
    3 points
  14. Simon

    G4x Base map

    Yep Multi fuel and traction control will be coming
    3 points
  15. I had time to play with this today. It looks like you can make it work as is. In the ECU's that dont have the serial data stream settings visible In PC link, it seems that the "requested short" data stream method is enabled by default. Realdash is compatible with that. In PC Link set the baud to 57600. In Realdash set the baud the same and set it to "use short datastream". Let me know if it works for you. I tested it on a couple of my test ecu's and it seemed to work.
    3 points
  16. I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is
    3 points
  17. this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
    3 points
  18. Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch
    3 points
  19. mapper

    Nos control

    I think its much better to have all universal function like virtual aux, timers, 4D, 5D, fual fuel table etc. than a dedicated NOS function. This way you can build your own NOS function excatly how you want it. You just habe to be a bit creative with the universal functions.
    3 points
  20. mapper

    Normalised knock

    I've helped with development of the new knock normalised mode and done lots of Beta testing. The Knock Normalised Mode has the big benefit that it will adapt to increased noise level, when your engine wear over time and consequently produce more background noise. In tradional mode this will lead to false knock detection. In general speaking Knock Normalised mode will adapt to changing background noise levels and should need less adjustment from engine to engine, once you have a good basemap worked out. It also allows better adjustment how much ignition retard is applied, based on knock
    2 points
  21. Thats a typo you have found there sorry, I will get that fixed up. Corrected note below. So yes you can use A8/Aux 8 & A11/Aux 7 for what ever you wish and you dont need to worry about A9/10.
    2 points
  22. Adamw

    Porsche 951 Crank sensor.

    The two with the 960 ohm resistance between them are your ground and signal. The ground connects to the white wire and the signal to the black. If you dont have any documentation to show which is +/- then sometimes it can be determined with a basic multimeter test - I will explain that in more detail below. The third pin is the shield for the sensor pigtail, connect this to the bare drain wire in the link loom. Multimeter test to determine VR sensor polarity: Set multimeter to DC mV. Connect the positive MM lead to one of the pins and the negative to the other. Hold a piece
    2 points
  23. Average knock level to help adjust gain between cylinder.
    2 points
  24. wastegate

    IS300 can issues

    Hi, I have a IS300 myself, although not running the xcessive/panicwire pnp kit, I repinned my loom to the right headers to suit. I don't have any issues.. It sounds like to me that the MPX isn't wired correctly on your loom and/or not going to where it suppose to go. Since you are using the IS300 2JZ loom, and using the panicwire patch loom, Check out pins E-5 (MPX1) and E-12 (MPX2) on the Link/Altezza header side loom, , make sure they are connected to the body loom and goto the body computer. On the IS300 loom side they "should" be connected to E4-21 (MPX1) E4-20 (MPX2). I'd unplug the
    2 points
  25. Adamw

    CLL settings

    Sorry for the slow reply. Yes, it looks like a bug. I will pass it on to engineering.
    2 points
  26. I think it is interesting technology when you look at prospects of closed loop peak cyl pressure angle control, but I think that is still a long way off the aftermarket world. As for ion current knock control, it is not very useful in anything but OEM applications, there are just too many combustion irregularities to allow it to be implemented in a DIY scenario. On the moderm BMW's with it for instance even a small change to the fuel mixture completely upsets it.
    2 points
  27. Something I've done recently is add a knock warning to my CE Light, I used a math block to calculate knock level - threshold and put it through a gp output to get an off delay (hold time) and fed it into the CE Light Aux. So far I've only used it for playing around with setting up my thresholds (so I can see how often it happens and for a clearer picture of when it happens) but I imagine it will be very useful once I've finished setting u the knock too. It has also been very useful for reviewing Knock stuff in PCLink logs as often the knock stuff happens too fast to be caught by PCLink bu
    2 points
  28. Here you go. Freshly out of my car. The calibration process is very easy the new way. Hats off for that. Not sure how the 4 offsets/teeth came for you.
    2 points
  29. Ducie54

    Cranking time

    Add pre prime fuel or increase it. Try lowering your injector timing table values, and make sure fuel rail volume does not drain back to the tank as it will take longer to build fuel pressure.
    2 points
  30. All flex fuel sensors do that. The signal is a PWM, the Ethanol % is the frequency and the temp is DC or pulse width. You just set the DI to "ethanol sensor" and both Ethanol % and temp will be available in the ECU.
    2 points
  31. I wanted to share my success using a bluetooth adapter since I have not seen any other posts about using one on this forum. So far I have only tested it with an Android tablet and RealDash. It has been working perfectly. Connection is fast and very reliable. There is no noticeable lag on the dash interface. There are a few advantages of using Bluetooth over USB for a tablet dash. 1) The usb port on the tablet is freed up to be used for charging (this can also be used to automatically turn the tablet on/off with key power) 2) The usb port on the ECU can be dedicated to th
    2 points
  32. Example of how this could be done on a G4X using Aux 1 as the tacho output, anv 1 as the oil pressure and DI1 as the switch Tacho as gauge.pclx
    2 points
  33. I have a couple of customers with the 1.8 VVT engine, they run great on the LinkG4+ wiring ecu. And they upgrade from the MS ECU actually, one of them because of a faulty regulator on the alternator. Without warning the alternator start to make spikes of voltage, and burn the MS ecu... We wire in the Link (without knowing about the problem), after just a few seconds of the first start, the engine shutdown. Looking at the log, we saw voltage of over 18V, the ecu cut the fuel and save everything, the ecu never burn like the MS. I have work with MS ecu, and have customers with them on, I really d
    2 points
  34. Adamw

    AVCS

    No, I used to think the same - it would be easier to use MAP for the VVT load axis as then it has more relationship to your VE table and it would then be easier to account for the change in VE due to cam position. But, as I have been doing more VVT recently I have learnt that theory is not true and it is better to use TP for the VVT load axis. The reason is that cam timing significantly affects the MAP, so if you have MAP as an axis on your VVT table, then in some situations you get the cam becoming unstable bouncing backwards and forwards because it is both affecting MAP and controlled
    2 points
  35. Ducie54

    Target afr protection

    A basic setup but you get the idea.
    2 points
  36. Also, if you press the H key on your keyboard, that will enable colours on the table - these sharp transitions should stick out like a sore thumb, as you'll not get a nice smooth gradient, but a sharp transition from green to red in this case.
    2 points
  37. The GM sensor uses the same calibration as the link sensor so you dont need to change anything. If you are still getting a t2 @ 5V error that means the ecu is not seeing any sensor connected (open circuit). It could be a bad connection or dead sensor. You can confirm the sensor is good with a multimeter, it should measure around 3000-3500ohms at typical room temperature.
    2 points
  38. You are correct, spark duration and arc duration are the same thing. In your case this setting may only just start to come into play a high rpm. The spark duration setting usually only comes in to play when you have a distributor with single coil and more than 4 cylinders. It is used to shorten the dwell at high RPM when there is not enough time to both charge the coil and spark for the full duration. As an example think of a V8 with a distributor running at 6000RPM. At 6000RPM one engine cycle (two crank revs) takes 20ms. All 8 cylinders have to fire in that time. Lets s
    2 points
  39. You can connect both 5v and 12v sensors (and VR sensors etc that have varying voltage output) all to the same sensor ground. The reason to chose 1 type of ground over another is not input voltage, but more: 1) how stable does the signal need to be for the engine to run well (crank trigger = really important, any of the temp sensors = not a big issue if the signal bounces around a few percent). And as part of this, will a ground offset cause an incorrect reading that still looks legit. (eg voltage offset on any analog sensor) 2) How much load is expected to go through the ground
    2 points
  40. Ducie54

    G4x Base map

    Is it possible to have a Math block drop down box with the maths all ready worked out?
    2 points
  41. I think with engine temps of 10°C and 94% ethanol you are going to struggle with cold start and there will be little you can do from a tune perspective to help. The vapour pressure of straight ethanol is very low so there will barely be any vapor in the port at that temp no matter how much fuel you dump in, it will just remain as liquid. Somewhere below around 10°C there is not enough vapor produced to support combustion. This is the reason why pump E85 gets reduced to E60-E70 in winter so there is a little more of the volitile solvents available to create some vapor in the port. In reg
    2 points
  42. Yep sounds like you got it. Here's a quick demo: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPqylX67m5Oo57-JVv?e=t3SK3f
    2 points
  43. Adamw

    ECU Unlock fails

    Someone has done a typo by the looks, The last two characters should be b7, not 67.
    2 points
  44. On my setup I use a 3d table to PWM an engine water pump. After a lot of testing I found using the temp output from the radiator and ECT the best way to control the pump. Takes into account out side temp and vechile speed. Would recommend you try that way to control the thermostat. Ive also connected a 2nd Digital output to the same soild state relay as an override. So if I'm at a set TPS or boost range the pump goes to 100%. After a bit of testing during different conditions I can keep the ECT within 2deg in all situations.
    2 points
  45. I drew this circuit for someone the other day. I havent tested it myself with a turbospeed sensor so no guarantees but I have used a similar circuit to divide a wheel speed frequency down. Over here you can buy the 4024 binary counter for about $1.50 from Jaycar so I assume they should be easy to find anywhere.
    2 points
  46. I moved away from using generic dash as it employs a compound CAN message, which can be a bit of a mouthful for both the ECU sending and the device receiving. I prefer to use messages which are split over several CAN IDs such as transmit generic dash 2. The only problem with Generic Dash 2 is there's appears to be a bug in the non driven wheel speed (1 byte assigned, but shows as 0-1000kph, guess the text was copied from generic dash). Not a problem though if you aren't planning on going more than 158 MPH...
    2 points
  47. Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
    2 points
  48. I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
    2 points
  49. Adamw

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Yes, in the next 5.6.6 firmware the CLL trim has 2 fully configurable 3D tables, so you can have different limits for adding fuel than for subtracting fuel and have those limits mapped against MAP, RPM, or almost any other parameter you like. I dont think the release is far away.
    2 points
  50. Here you go: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPn3zpsxhdV-DI1p5D
    2 points
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