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New update is available here: https://linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ Release notes: https://www.linkecu.com/pclink/Link Engine Management PC Link G4X Updates 21042021.pdf Important notes: This firmware changes the sync point in some triggermodes so base timing must be checked after doing this update. There is a new "Slow Comms" setting added, this may help those with communication problems that are due to some laptops with USB ports that are slow to respond. This a an ECU setting so the ecu needs the latest firmware instaled before you will have this s

I know this is becoming a bit of a blogpost, but I've managed to get it to work flawlessly now. This is just for anyone that is interested in getting a few pops and bangs on a gearchange/downshift without having fuel cut off all of the time, and, with some overlapping 4D and fuel cut ignition tables. Disclaimer: I am not a tuner, simply a novice that is taking a bit of interest. Above are my settings for this. Cutting the long story even longer: The fuel cut is on, but it takes 2 seconds to initiate because of the "activation delay" parameter. Within these 2 seconds, we want

Thanks, I woke to several similar reports this morning, it seems to be all related to the same user so they have been flagged as a spammer and all posts/messages should now have been removed.

The 5V supply is rated for 400mA at its specified accuracy. So typically enough for 30-50 sensors.

Hi, a New Member just sent me a message, but it's SPAM, SCAM or Porn with a link to open. Can you please review this New Member ( alinkaa ) Thank You, Tim Hampton

In G4 most of the operators are shown on the pop up where you enter the value. So to add 15% you just type "+15%". To select more than one cell you shift>arrow. In G4+ selection of multiple cells is a bit easier, you can shift>arrow or click and drag or for the whole table click the top left corner. All the same operators work.

All of these are possible. I suggest you download and install PCLink (if you've not done so already), open it up, open an Evo base map, then also open the Help file, and start looking at the options and the help file. The Help file provided with these ECUs is the best sets of documentation I've ever seen - not only does it tell you how the software works, but also gives you help and advice on tuning, engine electrical systems and ECUs in general.

For a turbo engine like this with a plenum and single throttle your best option will be MGP on both the fuel table axis and lambda target table axis.

Looks like we had the same idea here then. I did the same. Trig 2 to Bank 1, inlet. ( I determined bank 1 vs 2 based on cylinder numbers ). The remaining sensors are going to DI2-4

You need stable and predictable differential fuel pressure. If you know the regulator is under sized then you need to fix that, you are not going to be able to get a a good tune when the fuel pressure is so poorly controlled. Injector flow is correctly modelled using Bernoulli's equation. Flow change is roughly proportional to the sqaure root of the pressure change. Injector timing isnt really relevant at this stage, but just FYI, at idle and cruise with normal injectors close to the valves, the ideal EOI will usually be around 360-400BTDC. You want the fuel to

Set up that output on a custome GP PWM output pin. then test different frequencies until you can audibly hear it clicking from 15% duty cycle up to 80% duty cycle or so and that's the frequency you should use. This is typically what I do to test the frequency response range of a given solenoid. Normally you get a wider more linear range at lower frequencies than at higher frequencies. Most solenoids will work pretty well at 20-30Hz, but test it like I stated to find the range that solenoid likes to operate in. Same test can be done for almost any 2 wire PWM solenoid for any other purpose

If its a MAC Solenoid you should set it at 31hz.

Ok, so it sounds like there are some signs of life in that video and it is not too far off running. It looks like you get most action when throttle is wide open? So it could be fouled plugs or too much fuel. I guess it could also be too little fuel and the extra dose of accel fuel when you open the throttle helps. So I agree, try some fresh plugs, and then try adjusting the master fuel up and down by a relatively big chunk to see if it runs longer with more or less fuel.

Start with these basic checks:

Still not much closer at this stage. I dont want to make a guess, but based on the time frame of the last couple of plug-ins we have released I think it is still at least 6 months away.

I’ll try that in a bit when I go for my first 50 miles

Yeah scopes look ok.

Im not too sure what you mean by "but the ECU won start". So the Blue LED lights up but do you mean the laptop wont connect to the ECU now? Or just the engine wont start?

These are the values the help manual recommends for an M52 VDO Throttle, note these are G4+ Values but I imagine they will work reasonably well in a G4X too.

The module can drive any throttle.

You're logging the CAN Freq values aren't you, you need to be logging the LF, LR, RF and RR Wheel Speed values.

@Adamw I have tested the E07Z trigger mode and confirmed that it all works OK. RPM is stable and no trigger error has occurred. The trigger calibrate value is as below : -Trigger Offset : 27.0 deg -Ignition Delay : 80 microsec I really appreciate your support.

If you set the CAN2 mode to anything but off, then it is "On".

Thank you! That was helpful.

I answered this earlier on your facebook post so I will past the same answer here: You will need to add ignitors into the wiring or change the coils to something with built in ignitors. The Ford ecu had ignitors inside the case, the Link ecu doesn’t.

I would recommend the Bosch Motorsport injectors from this page ending in number 116: https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data Sheet_67797771_Injection_Valve_EV_14.pdf They are high impedance and have significantly better resolution for tuning than the old school evo injectors. I'm running the VAG coils too which you can see in my pic above. I suggest increasing fuel pressure as well as the factory 3.0bar is a little low for a performance motor. As a race only motor I'm running 65psi fuel pressure and it worked well with those injectors.

Oh, I see. But can't really go wrong with RCM, they're the quality stuff. And yes, I'm still running those injectors. I had some minor difficulties with passing the emissions testing but that might have been due to a bad O2 sensor. I'm planning for a full engine rebuild & hopefully maxing out these injectors with E85. And most likely exploding another transmission

I've got the pinout below for the cam sensor, you will probably find the crank is the same. "Out" connects to the ecu trigger 1/2 pin. "Gnd" connects to the ground wire. "S" connects to the shield.

Just take a quick look at the quick start guides for each where it shows the pinout of the A and B loom connectors. Most of the differences will be on the b-loom connector but there is an extra CAN 1 connection on the side of the case as well on the Xtreme: StormX: http://www.linkecu.com/documentation/StormXQuickstartGuideG4X.pdf XtremeX: http://linkecu.com/documentation/XtremeXQuickstartGuide.pdf Some of the differences: Additional analog input channels, DBW or E-Throttle capabiilty, additional temp sensor input, additional outputs, dual can bus vs. single, etc.

You have no PID, your min/max clamp settings look wrong, your E-Throttle target table is mostly full of 0s, and your log has almost no data in it. In future, please always provide a PC Log with every parameter added - what you think is relevant is often not actually relevant, and it's parameters you didn't log which can tell the rest of the story. I suggest you have a good read of the Help file, and fill in this missing data, and you may find that it begins to function a bit better.

Normal scheduled fuel injection is synchronous - that is it only gets injected once at a fixed point in the engine cycle (usually finishing around 400deg BTDC, so a long time before combustion). So if you only have synchronous injection (like most ecus) and you suddenly stand on the throttle after the injection event has already finished, then the next combustion event will be lean because you only originally added enough fuel for the amount of air that was flowing at the time of injection. With Asynchrous injection the ecu is always watching the fuel calculation even after the injecti

Vaughn you are a saint. Thanks much!

Also, not shown in those pics, but you fill the back with RTV afterwards so the resistor is supported.

In theory looping it back to CAN 2 would work, but it is not something I would do. Crimp a resistor into the plug for your wideband like below would be how I normally do it. Resistor wattage doesnt really matter but 1/6, 1/4 or 1/2W would be the common easy to get options, above that they are starting to get quite big.

Thanks, I will ask engineering to have a look tomorrow. Can you try a different GP PWM, in my testing I had the same problem on GP PWM4, but GP POWM 3 & 5 accepted the value fine.

You can find BMW Electrical Troubleshooting manuals for both an M50tu car and a 96-98 MS41 car, which will have detailed pinouts for the DME connector (X6000) The M52/S52 connector is slightly different than the M50. The "Hook" on the connector housing (opposite the latch) needs to be modified to clip together. I only know this because I used an M50 connector on a bench flasher for the MS41 ECU. It seems like the large and small hooks are flipped top & bottom to intentionally prevent insertion of the wrong ECU. This connector is now somewhat loose, but you may be able to clearance

Turns out in my case the jerking was caused by too much advance, like 0x33 suggested. I reduced significantly the timing/torque and the jerking is finally gone. Now my car is really starting to drive well, I just have to fix the long cranking / stall after startup issue and it's all dialed in Thank you all for you help!

Strange issue. Some of your settings for idle seem redundant, for example when you turn the AC request on the following things are happening: - Idle base position table switching from 3.7% to 5.1% - Engine Fan Offset adds + 1% - GP Idle Offset adds + 10% + 300RPM Idle Target - AC Idle Up Offset adds +8% + 100RPM Idle Target When AC request is turning on and off you have around 20% idle duty being added, which is crazy for ethrottle. I can see you have set a maxmium idle clamp of 4.7% so the Ethrottle dosent go to 20%, but this combination of settings seems li

Thank you Vaughan for solving my puzzle.

You will have to experiment to see what gives you the required result with minimal bangs, every engine is different .

I'm all good on that front mate, my mapper is golden.

You should certainly make yourself familiar with how PCLink works, the forums here can provide you a lot of support and assistance, and will save you having to go back to a tuner every time you want to make a minor change! I would also make sure that you tell the tuner up front that you want full access to the ECU's configuration/tune when they have completed their work and you do not want it locked - if they are unwilling to to do so, then respectfully tell them to cancel your appointment, and that you'll go elsewhere!

Thanks for the info!

Sorry I have been meaning to take another look at your log but havent had a chance the last few days. Maybe tomorrow or the weekend I will get some free time.

if that's what it was, then based on Vaughan's post it's not a fault, it's a user configurable output based on a set of conditions, that just so happens to be configured to turn on the output that the CEL is also connected to - doubling up the usage of that physical output to denote multiple things.

In the area where it goes sligthy rich you have a lambda error of about 0.04lambda so I think you could probably increase the gain a fair bit in the 0.033 and 0.066 cells. You will probably need to lower the conrol rate in the 0/1000/2000 & 3000 cells at the same time as your rate especially at 2&3000 is probably way faster than the time it takes for the exhaust gas to reach the sensor and the sensor respond. Here is an example from our WRX test car (lambda just after turbo about 1M from exhaust valves). This is a G4X so I dont know how well the gains translate across b

Just recently got it back up and running on a Monsoon-X! It was my first time building an entire harness and getting everything set-up with minimal help. It has been a great experience so far, and the car is already running better than on its previous standalone! Can’t say enough about the support offered here by both staff and other members. Hope to keep on learning!

For tables use the recommendation from TechDave. Watch out for differences in settings between + and X. There are few settings that cannot be copied over directly due to changes. Once you start copying them it doesn’t take much time. Good luck with copy paste!

Hi Everyone , I'm very new to the world of engine management (being more used to contact breakers & condensers !) but am very enthusiastic ! . I've been lurking for a while but this is my first ever post. I'm building a Cosworth YB Turbo powered Ford Escort Mk1 and have bought a new Link Monsoon G4x to take care of the engine management. I'm also using a boost control solenoid and a Wideband lambda controller. I'm going to be making my own wiring harness using a Link Loom A as the basis. I figured the best place to start would be to fill in the I/O table and use a schematic for myse

The Monsoon doesnt have knock control. Neither is needed. Yes, not very useful, better to wire directly to a warning light on dash. If connected to ECU you could set up an oil pressure limiter but since most only switch on at about 4psi your bearings are already gone by then. Not sure what you are asking here, do you mean just there magnetic wheel speed sensor? No that should be set up already, just do the MAP calibration when first powered up. Ign 1 to pin 1. Yep, pin 19 if you want it. I wouldnt bother personally unless economy/emissions is important to