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Disagree, Link already has a whole bench of different wire in ECU's, like no other manufacturer. Price diff is not that biig between Furry and Thunder to add another one. 2x DBW and only 1x Lambda does not make sense in most applications. Thats my oppinion.

For basic stuff, I use a free online one called scheme-it, from Digikey. You just need to set up a log-in. One of my drawings as an example below.

File compare doesnt show any differences. Can you do a short log of an attempted start with the new file.

Ok @Vaughan, my mistake then

The communication errors are not faults, they are just debug information to help us when customers have comms issues. They are only present in PC Link and wont cause a check engine light or any fault record in the ECU. The Lambda error 16 & 33 are usually power supply related. This can be caused when they are connected to a circuit with lots of inductive noise on it - such as the same circuit as ignition coils or idle valve, or it can also be caused when the circuit is not capable of the required current (they can pull up to 8A under high loads etc). Assuming the wires are alread

Will do as suggested and report back. Thank you.

From my memory of bench testing and reading the current draw on my bench power supply: Typical inductive relay triggers draw less than 0.1A MAC boost solenoid less than 0.1A Wideband: up to 2A ECU Logic and power: 0.3A or less FF Sensor less than 0.1A Alt sense - never tested but I would imagine extremely low.

G4X DI's are all capable of 10KHz, turbo speed can be connected directly.

A quick compare of the two shows the differences as trigger pattern and IC Spray setup, the trigger mode would be dependent on the cam trigger as the crank triggers are identical (different pattern of teeth).

I've had to tweak the trigger thresholds on several distributor 3SGTEs/Toyotas to get no misfire or errors at idle with the Link (which is more than I ever had to do with some other ecus). Typically I would run a trigger scope at cranking and every 1000 rpm that there are threshold break points and then set the trigger threshold value to approximatly 1/2-2/3 of the scope peak reading at each break point. This has worked well for me so far.

Hi Vaughan Yes pretty much. I usually set the tablets up with a few different displays and have the status windows on there so the customer can see when things are active. With them being touch screen they seem to think the window is an on/off switch even though they usually have a switch wired in for whatever function it may be. Thought I'd bring it up as it would be quite a nice thing to have. Rough example but you get idea.

I've set up a good amount of tablet displays for customers and 9 out of 10 of them always try clicking on the status window for a certain function e.g ALS etc. I've no idea how difficult this would be to implement but think it would be fantastic for the end user. I think this could be a great option to toggle certain functions like fuel/ignition table set,boost target,fan control over-ride even as well as the motorsport features,maybe even a launch rpm bump up/down function. Not sure if someone may have asked previously but read through a good amount of pages tonight back to aro

Update: The car went on the dyno and made a respectable 545kw at the wheels (1.5JZ GT3582R Gen II, E85), the relay issue didn’t effect the tune luckily. I looked closer at the Link wiring diagram and noticed the 12V supply for ‘control solenoids’ and ‘relay coils’ didn’t have a relay mentioned. My wiring had the ECU relay triggering another relay to supply 12V to both solenoids and relay coils. I bypassed this relay and it seems to have solved my problem. I’ll put a small fuse on the ign switch to make sure it’s not drawing too much current. I’m

Assuming you have trigger 1 edge is set to falling that scope would be good.

Yep, if the tank weren't already full of E85 (77%) then I would have started there. I'll just get it as far as I can and then let the actual tuners take it from there. Thanks! (Also, can't thank you enough for these Spearco IC pipes! )

I find it much simpler to tune petrol first, and once you tune whatever blend of ethanol and petrol you want, it is possible to extrapolate the 0% and 100% tables linearly in excel (assuming you use the same axis breakpoints on table 1 and 2).

Update to the latest firmware and do another log. Accel fuel function has been improved in newer firmware. Also, you should have 1.0 as the smallest number in your accel cold correction table. Zero above 70°C means you will get no accel enrichment when coolant is above 70°C.

You only connect one of the sync sensors to trigger 2, either one is fine but most use the G1 sensor.

As per the manual, the Mini ECU has ignitors built-in on ignition drives 1 & 2, so you can only use "dumb" coils (coils without built-in ignitors), and you will also have to use a 2 or 3 channel external ignitor for ign 3 & 4.

Ok, that seems odd. You might have to use 6.18 for now until our engineers are back from holiday. I suggest you email tech@linkecu.com so they can get a ticket in the system and escalate it to engineering if they cant help.

Unsure if I have the derivative around the right way but on the whole it seems to sit there and oscillate at 1.5Hz (on top of the 250Hz PWM speed), maybe more fiddling will improve but should do the job for now.

I've had a bit of a play with the alternator control now and what I've found is that using something like "voltage<14.7" can result in the output just turning on and off lots which appears to regulate the voltage just fine because the output is updated fast enough but it seems a bit too easy. My current setup is an attempt at closed loop control in a table like the above but I was thinking I might try and make a PID loop using mathblocks to see how well that worked. My maths is currently: Math Block 1 (Voltage Error) = (14.7 - batt Voltage)*(Engine Speed > 0) The engine speed

Yes, use the 3 evenly spaced teeth vvt mode, everything else should be much the same

Pre Crank prime is a time based squirt that happens at power up. All the other enrichments are percentage adder based on the numbers in the main fuel table. You can log them all to see how much of each is working and how they transition from one phase to the next. There is a page in the help file that shows the order they work. I can't give a link today as working from a phone, but if you click on one of the cold start settings and press F1 you will find it.

Ethanol sensor is not even enabled in the tune you attached, so I can only really guess. But I would say most likely your active edge setting is wrong. Try swapping to the opposite edge.

Other suggestion: Set all 0 cells to 25 Set Output activation to: ECT> 70 deg AND IAT >60deg OR Virtual AUX X = ON Virtual AUX X ECT >80 deg and IAT >50 deg OR ECT > 90 deg This should do the job just fine. I can not think of a situation where you have IAT> 60deg and ECT< 70deg. Btw don't see how the fan has any effect on IAT....

Excellent, glad to hear it's all working The daily visits to this forum and reading every thread is finally starting to pay off!

Update time. Had a chance to test the fan code this afternoon. Although very complicated (still trying to get my head around how it works) it seems to work perfectly. Fan comes on at a min duty of 25 and off around the same! You are a genius. Would still like to see a easier way to do this (maybe I should put min/max gp dc clamps in the wishlist? along with a 'kick' feature to temporarily bump the dc up) But in the mean time, this workaround.... seems to work. Thanks for everybody's help, you guys are awesome. Merry Christmas.

Thank you for your assistance, Confused you are a legend my friend, It was as you suggested again Merry Christmas

Again, thanks for looking into this. I will give Vaughans suggestion a try. Ps. the engine speed condition was just set to >= 0, so i could monitor what the fan was doing on cool down ( car not running) so i could see when it switched off. Yeah, it didnt seem to work all that well, values below 25 were still being output as it transitioned from 89 - 90 deg. This wasnt for very long 3-5 seconds, but i suspect if the value in the 90 deg cell was lower, this transition phase would grow. It was a very choppy looking transition too, like a coarse stairstep. I tried to upload a picture

Here is a table setup that will give you the same result as above but with no interpolation:

I've been using a program called TinyCAD for my schematics. It's a freeware program, runs on Windows, and is pretty easy to figure out and use. It also includes a pretty decent library of electrical/electronic components (resistors, diodes, etc.), and you can create your own components to add to the library. More info & download can be found here: https://www.tinycad.net

Yes, it is disabled when the engine is not running. It will start heating about 20 sec after start up.

There is a preconfigured CAN mode for it in the software/firmware. Set up info is in the help file under Device Specific CAN Information. The preconfigured mode presently only uses the E888 inputs (not outputs) - so, 8 x EGT's, 6 x CAN Analog inputs, 4 x Frequency inputs. We didnt have CAN PWM outputs in the firmware back when that stream was set up so they were omitted. A quick look at the documentation it looks like you could make the outputs work with a custom stream no worries.

once again they are not ECU fault codes, they don't exist in the ECU, they only exist in PCLink as a way of indicating why the ECU disconnected.

See if you can follow this video: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPxBuFmXxJ1X-3hfQT?e=nF6nnL

I did try that in all the mess of today and that didn't help. I just retried now and it worked. happy days!

Had a quick look at your tune and your boost target is always set to 0 which means that you are entering stage 3 as soon as boost control starts and because your Base DC Mode is set to Stage 2 and your PID values are 0s it will just keep using the wastegate DC value it had in stage 2 (which it passed through immediately).

It seems this is quite variable in my experience, possibly depending on size of throttle and plenum volume etc. I will attach a few example settings from cars I have tuned but you will notice they are hugely different. The LS4 needs 7% dashpot throttle, whereas my evo needs no dash pot at all... To tune it set up a time plot with RPM and idle target one the same plot like pic below. The idea is you want the RPM to drop down to target as fast as possible without significant undershoot. Here is our LS4 race car with our default base map dash pot settings, notice the big dip under

I would no necessarly agree that pwm frequency has no inlfuence. Especially at such high frequency i'ts likely the current is not a nice square wave any more. If you zoom in with a oscilloscope the tace is looking more like a sinus curve (eges rounded). Means total energy in the coil of DBW Motor( area under the curve) is less., especially at low Duty Cycles. This behavior can be seen already with 50hz+ on a Hella PWM Relay.

It is possible to run the ecu and engine without the ecu having any control of the pump. You do lose the option to prime and control when the pump is on obviously. At the most basic level, the ecu will do things if it sees trigger signal inputs that the engine is turning and that matches up with the trigger input settings in the ecu. It does not necessarily require more than that to operate injectors and ignition components.

Most of the time the ECU will control a relay that feeds the fuel pump. You will get +12V going to the relay and then the relay to a aux output that will provide a ground a the right time. You can also control your pump with a pwm signal depending on the model

Here is my data, from Golebys website, not sure if it's dead on but it is something.

The two with the 960 ohm resistance between them are your ground and signal. The ground connects to the white wire and the signal to the black. If you dont have any documentation to show which is +/- then sometimes it can be determined with a basic multimeter test - I will explain that in more detail below. The third pin is the shield for the sensor pigtail, connect this to the bare drain wire in the link loom. Multimeter test to determine VR sensor polarity: Set multimeter to DC mV. Connect the positive MM lead to one of the pins and the negative to the other. Hold a piece

G4 would be done like so:

Adamw, Thanks for your answer, good advice. You are very correct about the worn flywheel teeth, a old problem i am fighting with for 30+ years. I have my own Porsche 944 / 60-2 Flywheel kits, a Pulley mount 60 - 2 Trigger Wheel and a 60-2 Flywheel, same as the Porsche 968 / 60-2 Flywheel but for use with the larger dia. Porsche 944 Turbo Clutch. Reason for asking is that i was looking to use the stock Flywheel for a cheapo Customer who don´t want to buy my one of my Trigger Kits.

what ecu do you have, a G4 or G4+?

Adam you are a wizard Harry. I don’t think I’ve ever had a novel of a reply in any forum. Im going to just get the Ross crank trigger today with the 36-2 disc and for factory look I’m just going to cut the oem cas disc back to make a single tooth reference. All your post was missing was my trigger setup instructions for pc link and I’m laughing hahaha Love it man Thankyou. Makes more sense now.

With the 12 tooth option, the position of the cam tooth is quite critical as there is nothing on the crank to identify where TDC is. Im not sure how clear this description will be but Im struggling to come up with a good explanation today: With the 12 tooth set up, the only way the ECU knows which tooth on the crank represents TDC is by using the cam tooth as a index to tell it which tooth on the crank to start counting degrees from. This generally works well provided you make sure that the cam tooth is set up to occur reasonably centered between two crank teeth. The potential problem

How's everyone doing? Here is a vehicle that i have tuned (FworXtuning) of a customer. Made 345awhp and 56kgm torque at 1.7 bar boost . My first dyno tune how does the dyno graph look to you? Feel free to advice me Engine : EJ20K stroker 2.2L Eagle rods Mahle ceramic coated pistons Ihi VF43 stock turbo Stock cylinder head no porting Spec C top mount intercooler Tial 38mm external Fuel: D1 spec fuel regulator AEM fuel pump 355lph 105 RON fuel