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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/07/2021 in Posts

  1. Adamw

    1993 HONDA TODAY wiring

    Your wiring in the .xlsx file appear to be mostly correct, But I think there are potentially 2 small mistakes:As Pin A19 - I think this is just a signal from the igniton switch to tell the ecu that the engine is cranking. This should be connected to a digital input, not an aux output. Pin A7 & A8 (Aux 4) - I think this is actually to control the fuel pump relay, not the main relay. As for the crank and cam sensor not working, my only thought is from the wiring diagram it is not clear which pins are ground and which pins are signal. So it maybe worth trying to swap D5 wi
    1 point
  2. Yes that is pretty normal, it is due to the the fuel film evaporating from the port walls. Basically the opposite effect causes the lean patch when you open the throttle (if no accel enrichment was implemented). Some ECU's have a wall wetting model or a "decel enleanment" feature to improve it but we dont at this time. I like Shane T's demonstation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTXPF-6M1D0
    1 point
  3. DO1023

    2GR-FE Wiring

    Looks like we had the same idea here then. I did the same. Trig 2 to Bank 1, inlet. ( I determined bank 1 vs 2 based on cylinder numbers ). The remaining sensors are going to DI2-4
    1 point
  4. koracing

    Sluggish 3SGTE

    I assume you went with the Racer X rail and their bosch regulator option -- I always advise my customers against that regulator option and just stick with a proven adjustable regulator like the Aeromotive 13109. Yeah they cost more and you have to buy fittings and lines, etc. They *always* work. A lot of your adjustments and trims are a bit... different... than I'm used to seeing and I can only guess the fuel pressure being so high is a big part of it. Your dead times didn't match the information I have exactly from Injector dynamics website, but it wasn't far enough off to make that
    1 point
  5. Adamw

    Sluggish 3SGTE

    You need stable and predictable differential fuel pressure. If you know the regulator is under sized then you need to fix that, you are not going to be able to get a a good tune when the fuel pressure is so poorly controlled. Injector flow is correctly modelled using Bernoulli's equation. Flow change is roughly proportional to the sqaure root of the pressure change. Injector timing isnt really relevant at this stage, but just FYI, at idle and cruise with normal injectors close to the valves, the ideal EOI will usually be around 360-400BTDC. You want the fuel to
    1 point
  6. Also since you mentioned "50/60Hz AC", you need to check your part number is for the solenoid that is designed for 12DC. That spec shows 4 options, 200VAC, 100VAC, 24V DC, 12VDC. Only the 12V DC option will work, the part number should end with *-4.
    1 point
  7. Set up that output on a custome GP PWM output pin. then test different frequencies until you can audibly hear it clicking from 15% duty cycle up to 80% duty cycle or so and that's the frequency you should use. This is typically what I do to test the frequency response range of a given solenoid. Normally you get a wider more linear range at lower frequencies than at higher frequencies. Most solenoids will work pretty well at 20-30Hz, but test it like I stated to find the range that solenoid likes to operate in. Same test can be done for almost any 2 wire PWM solenoid for any other purpose
    1 point
  8. If its a MAC Solenoid you should set it at 31hz.
    1 point
  9. Ok, so it sounds like there are some signs of life in that video and it is not too far off running. It looks like you get most action when throttle is wide open? So it could be fouled plugs or too much fuel. I guess it could also be too little fuel and the extra dose of accel fuel when you open the throttle helps. So I agree, try some fresh plugs, and then try adjusting the master fuel up and down by a relatively big chunk to see if it runs longer with more or less fuel.
    1 point
  10. Adamw

    Rich cold starts

    There are a combination of factors. It looks like Post start enrichment is quite a bit of it, when that disables around the 50sec mark your lambda is back to about 0.85. So you can reduce that and its hold decay time quite a bit by the looks which will help. IAT fuel trim should normally be off for modelled mode, although it is not having a big effect in this case. Otherwise I would guess the charge temp approximation is a bit too heavily biased to ECT in the idle area. I would not recomend adjusting that at this stage as it will effect the whole tune. If you want to pull a bit more
    1 point
  11. Start with these basic checks:
    1 point
  12. Have changed to 0.745 which matches most of the rest of the sample maps, corrected any other sample maps which were also different, will be in the next release
    1 point
  13. One thing I recommend doing with the LTT is to try and set the axis break points to match your fuel table break points as much as possible in the regions where you want to have the LTT active. I wish the LTT table was as large as the fuel tables, but it is not.
    1 point
  14. Adamw

    Subaru CAN support

    Still not much closer at this stage. I dont want to make a guess, but based on the time frame of the last couple of plug-ins we have released I think it is still at least 6 months away.
    1 point
  15. You could do it several ways, but below is the closest option to how you propose in a binary sense. Use 2 virtual auxes - you only need 2 as the 3rd combination would be assumed anytime the other 2 are not true. The other other would be to receive the data as a two bit value - say use something like CAN AN Volt channel, then the 3 switch positions could be represented as a value 1/2/3. You could put the CAN AN Volt directly onto the boost table axis.
    1 point
  16. Ryley Coker

    Idle

    I’ll try that in a bit when I go for my first 50 miles
    1 point
  17. The base map is for a NA engine. If your stock trigger is from an NB then you would need to use the NB trigger mode. If you run no cam trigger then you will have to use wasted spark ignition and multipoint group injection. If you remove two teeth for the cam then you can run direct spark and sequential injection.
    1 point
  18. Adamw

    Dwell time dropout

    Yeah scopes look ok.
    1 point
  19. These are the values the help manual recommends for an M52 VDO Throttle, note these are G4+ Values but I imagine they will work reasonably well in a G4X too.
    1 point
  20. Adamw

    Closed loop lambda gain

    In the area where it goes sligthy rich you have a lambda error of about 0.04lambda so I think you could probably increase the gain a fair bit in the 0.033 and 0.066 cells. You will probably need to lower the conrol rate in the 0/1000/2000 & 3000 cells at the same time as your rate especially at 2&3000 is probably way faster than the time it takes for the exhaust gas to reach the sensor and the sensor respond. Here is an example from our WRX test car (lambda just after turbo about 1M from exhaust valves). This is a G4X so I dont know how well the gains translate across b
    1 point
  21. Adamw

    LS1 no trigger

    With the sensors removed from the engine, but still plugged into the loom and with ignition on so they are all powered up, back probe the signal pin at the sensor connector and connect a voltmeter (use a paper clip poked through the wire seal). The signal wire should be 4V or higher with no metal in front of it and 0V when you hold something steel in front of it (like a screw driver or spanner). If you dont see that voltage change then there is some problem with the wiring/pinout/sensor. If you see a voltage change at the sensor when you do the above test, then the next step would be to
    1 point
  22. Hi Everyone , I'm very new to the world of engine management (being more used to contact breakers & condensers !) but am very enthusiastic ! . I've been lurking for a while but this is my first ever post. I'm building a Cosworth YB Turbo powered Ford Escort Mk1 and have bought a new Link Monsoon G4x to take care of the engine management. I'm also using a boost control solenoid and a Wideband lambda controller. I'm going to be making my own wiring harness using a Link Loom A as the basis. I figured the best place to start would be to fill in the I/O table and use a schematic for myse
    1 point
  23. Adamw

    SR16VE Locost Clubman

    The Monsoon doesnt have knock control. Neither is needed. Yes, not very useful, better to wire directly to a warning light on dash. If connected to ECU you could set up an oil pressure limiter but since most only switch on at about 4psi your bearings are already gone by then. Not sure what you are asking here, do you mean just there magnetic wheel speed sensor? No that should be set up already, just do the MAP calibration when first powered up. Ign 1 to pin 1. Yep, pin 19 if you want it. I wouldnt bother personally unless economy/emissions is important to
    1 point
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