Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/26/2020 in all areas

  1. It would be nice to be able to bound the max and min duty for idle control (3 wire pwm in particular) to vary either by some amount above and below the base position, or by a coolant or possibly other axis variable. It sometimes has been a bit of a hassle to get the idle, return to idle, startup, etc. all to work as smooth as I would like (granted most of the cars I'm using these on are 30 +/- years old now), and it just seems like this would aid in dialing this in a little quicker.
    2 points
  2. Disagree, Link already has a whole bench of different wire in ECU's, like no other manufacturer. Price diff is not that biig between Furry and Thunder to add another one. 2x DBW and only 1x Lambda does not make sense in most applications. Thats my oppinion.
    2 points
  3. Hi, My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun. I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom. This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine.
    2 points
  4. dx4picco

    Rich misfires?

    Maybe increase a bit the trigger 2 threshold. I will let Adam give the last word but it looks like the small hump on there may give you an error
    1 point
  5. koracing

    Rich misfires?

    Typically a misfire will show as a lean spike or overall leaner running average than reality. I've had cars run on dyno so rich they did misfire, and the AFR looked like it was spot on, lol. I removed 15% fuel and the afr read richer without misfiring. Rich misfire sounds like a limiter being applied usually. I would guess you're more likely having a trigger threshold error. What is the arming voltage (logged) versus actual trigger1/2 values at that rpm? Can you run a trigger test at the rpm where that was happening?
    1 point
  6. You cant listen to it, that is not how ECU knock control works. The knock sensor is connected to the ECU and is used by the knock control strategy to try to determine when the engine is knocking. To set the knock control function up and tune it so it can reliably detect knock needs a reasonably level of experience and generally is verified in conjunction with a standalone audio knock detection device. It sounds like you will need to get a tuner involved if you want knock control.
    1 point
  7. Calibrate function did its magic and VVT works as it should , cam angle follows the VVT table. Thanks to everyone that helped with suggestions and to the great LINK support team.
    1 point
  8. Loic

    MAP Level Triggering

    Hi all to add some more information on this topic i have fine tuned the trigger 1 sync tooth for the map sync function using the trigger scope and the logging at 1000Hz as @Adamw recommended because some times we found the engine was trying not starting at first time and we need 2 or 3 attempts to get it to start. the result is impressive the car now starts perfectely. you can see on the lifeview screenshot below the yellow mark was our previous setup and now our actual setup is the white mark on tooth 44 where the map is sitting at 55.2 kpa. so big thanks adam for the technique it
    1 point
  9. Bethanyc

    IC Spray extra tables

    thanks Vaughan and Kris for the ideas, i think now have a simpler way to make it work while keeping most all the IC spray functions. i checked the logs from the 2 events i have had with the ECU in and as the 2 events were 2 extremes, one at 25 deg day the other at 40 deg, there is a very constant increase in between AIT,Oil and ECT. So i can flatten the input with the mathblock somewhat by adding the 3 values together in the mathblock and using that output to increase the duty cycle. This way if one of the values from anything increase out of the ordinary i still get the benefit of increa
    1 point
  10. I suggest you use the pinout in the G4X version of PC Link as they are now a bit more complete. Pin 40 is controlled by the jumper on the bottom board. If it is in the Evo4-7 position it is basically open circuit (Evo 4-7 used this pin for the catalytic converter warning lamp). With the jumper shorted (EVO 8 position) then pin 40 is sensor ground. Click on the image below will give you a bigger version.
    1 point
  11. Normal G4X has a different accel mode.
    1 point
  12. update on today progress, koracing, following your pointers, traced and found there is no wire in #37 in my miata, so I tested #50 assigned Aux3 in tacho setting, then switch the wire to #37 slot and managed to get it work, with a setting on HIGH side. Vaughan diagram is applicable to this 95' 1.8L Miata, no B/W wire on #37. Thank you very much, koracing and Vaughn for sharing the useful diagrams and valuable pointers. I'll work on the CEL next and noted on the knock sensor pull up.
    1 point
  13. Yeah you have a i88 or G4+ based ecu so this has a configurable CAN bus and will allow you to display any ECU related stuff on the AEM dash. Unfortunately that AEM adapter cable isnt going to be direct fit, but it will still probably be a decent starting point. Your ECU doesnt have the 6 pin round CAN plug, your CAN is on the main ECU 34pin plug. You will have to cut the round plug off the AEM cable and crimp Amp superseal 1.0 pins on the two CAN wires. The CAN L or CAN - wire goes into pin 33 and CAN H or CAN + wire into pin 34.
    1 point
  14. Vaughan

    IC Spray extra tables

    You could use a GP PWM instead of the IC spray function if you were fine with a slightly simpler activation setup, you would have a minimum frequency of 0.6Hz (spray period of 1.67s) and you could probably get some on/off hysteresis with the activation conditions. You could also do a Math Block setup with a statement like (Oil Temp > X) | (ECT > Y) | (IAT > Z) which can be used to activate the IC spray (use the math block as the activation input). This wouldn't be increasing DC with temp but would be spraying or not spraying with temp. Alternatively if you have separate spra
    1 point
  15. I have a map (a base map I have set up) saved with the first math block used to convert Lambda to AFR (gasoline) by multiplying Lamda1 variable a by 14.7. Equation: a*14.7 This works fine on the ecu I have connected while setting this up. If I save the tune, however, and then load it on a new ecu this no longer functions. I can get it to start working again if I go into the math function, play with it like by editing the equation (without making a change) and saving, and then it starts functioning.
    1 point
  16. The DIP switches just swap the trigger 1 & trigger 2 pins with each other to suit the R34 CAS which is reversed compared to R32/33. Trigger 1 connected to pin 42 would be the normal R32/R33 wiring so the DIP switches would be set per the "Other models" config.
    1 point
  17. Ok @Vaughan, my mistake then
    1 point
  18. Most likely valve float and the delay is the lifter bleeding down. That's if it's not an ECU setting.
    1 point
  19. You can still run the stock coils, you will just need an external ignitor. 2Channel if it is the 4 tower wasted spark coil, or 4 channel for COP. Often however it is just easier and cheaper to convert to some other coil with built in ignitors.
    1 point
  20. Adamw

    Errors - MR2 PnP

    The communication errors are not faults, they are just debug information to help us when customers have comms issues. They are only present in PC Link and wont cause a check engine light or any fault record in the ECU. The Lambda error 16 & 33 are usually power supply related. This can be caused when they are connected to a circuit with lots of inductive noise on it - such as the same circuit as ignition coils or idle valve, or it can also be caused when the circuit is not capable of the required current (they can pull up to 8A under high loads etc). Assuming the wires are alread
    1 point
  21. Will do as suggested and report back. Thank you.
    1 point
  22. Wildt267

    Talk me into a link

    Thank you for the replies. That's more the type of information i was looking for. I appreciate it.
    1 point
  23. G4X DI's are all capable of 10KHz, turbo speed can be connected directly.
    1 point
  24. Vaughan

    Evo G4X plugin

    A quick compare of the two shows the differences as trigger pattern and IC Spray setup, the trigger mode would be dependent on the cam trigger as the crank triggers are identical (different pattern of teeth).
    1 point
  25. I've had to tweak the trigger thresholds on several distributor 3SGTEs/Toyotas to get no misfire or errors at idle with the Link (which is more than I ever had to do with some other ecus). Typically I would run a trigger scope at cranking and every 1000 rpm that there are threshold break points and then set the trigger threshold value to approximatly 1/2-2/3 of the scope peak reading at each break point. This has worked well for me so far.
    1 point
  26. I've set up a good amount of tablet displays for customers and 9 out of 10 of them always try clicking on the status window for a certain function e.g ALS etc. I've no idea how difficult this would be to implement but think it would be fantastic for the end user. I think this could be a great option to toggle certain functions like fuel/ignition table set,boost target,fan control over-ride even as well as the motorsport features,maybe even a launch rpm bump up/down function. Not sure if someone may have asked previously but read through a good amount of pages tonight back to aro
    1 point
  27. Try this, it looks like mostly it was the fan set and the Fan2 settings. Do another cold start log with this map, then you can use that to tune the base position table. Idle changes.pclr
    1 point
  28. Update: The car went on the dyno and made a respectable 545kw at the wheels (1.5JZ GT3582R Gen II, E85), the relay issue didn’t effect the tune luckily. I looked closer at the Link wiring diagram and noticed the 12V supply for ‘control solenoids’ and ‘relay coils’ didn’t have a relay mentioned. My wiring had the ECU relay triggering another relay to supply 12V to both solenoids and relay coils. I bypassed this relay and it seems to have solved my problem. I’ll put a small fuse on the ign switch to make sure it’s not drawing too much current. I’m
    1 point
  29. dx4picco

    trigger scope

    all good still learning too
    1 point
  30. Adamw

    trigger scope

    Assuming you have trigger 1 edge is set to falling that scope would be good.
    1 point
  31. Yep, if the tank weren't already full of E85 (77%) then I would have started there. I'll just get it as far as I can and then let the actual tuners take it from there. Thanks! (Also, can't thank you enough for these Spearco IC pipes! )
    1 point
  32. Update to the latest firmware and do another log. Accel fuel function has been improved in newer firmware. Also, you should have 1.0 as the smallest number in your accel cold correction table. Zero above 70°C means you will get no accel enrichment when coolant is above 70°C.
    1 point
  33. Yes as per Timmy's comment, swap your factory MAP sensor connector and use any in its place. Same with your boost solenoid - usually easiest just to wire the new one in place of the old one.
    1 point
  34. Adamw

    4efte

    You only connect one of the sync sensors to trigger 2, either one is fine but most use the G1 sensor.
    1 point
  35. In all of your start attempts is syncs very quickly so I dont think it is a trigger issue. One thing I notice in your log is your accel deadband is too low so at idle due to the noise on your TPS signal you have accel enrichment continuously being pumped in. This may mean the VE numbers in your fuel table are a bit skewed from this extra accel fuel. I would also make the first two columns of you fuel table much flatter - so you have the same VE all the way down. This is because when cranking you are operating in/near the 0Kpa cell so MAP it is not a good indicator of load in thos
    1 point
  36. Unsure if I have the derivative around the right way but on the whole it seems to sit there and oscillate at 1.5Hz (on top of the 250Hz PWM speed), maybe more fiddling will improve but should do the job for now.
    1 point
  37. I've had a bit of a play with the alternator control now and what I've found is that using something like "voltage<14.7" can result in the output just turning on and off lots which appears to regulate the voltage just fine because the output is updated fast enough but it seems a bit too easy. My current setup is an attempt at closed loop control in a table like the above but I was thinking I might try and make a PID loop using mathblocks to see how well that worked. My maths is currently: Math Block 1 (Voltage Error) = (14.7 - batt Voltage)*(Engine Speed > 0) The engine speed
    1 point
  38. Adamw

    G4x rb26 hks vcam setup

    Yes, use the 3 evenly spaced teeth vvt mode, everything else should be much the same
    1 point
  39. To verify deadtime, you can set injection mode to multipoint group and switch the injection rate back and forth between 1 cycle and 1/2 cycle, while at constant fast idle. Lambda should settle to about the same value on either rate setting. If lambda changes when injection rate changes then adjust the deatime up or down until lambda is the same with either rate. Give it a few seconds to stabilize each time you make a change.
    1 point
  40. Here is my data, from Golebys website, not sure if it's dead on but it is something.
    1 point
  41. Relatively confident we have a solution for this unfortunately it does require a hardware change, Units will need to come in to the nearest office for the work to be done.
    1 point
  42. Adamw

    Porsche 951 Crank sensor.

    The two with the 960 ohm resistance between them are your ground and signal. The ground connects to the white wire and the signal to the black. If you dont have any documentation to show which is +/- then sometimes it can be determined with a basic multimeter test - I will explain that in more detail below. The third pin is the shield for the sensor pigtail, connect this to the bare drain wire in the link loom. Multimeter test to determine VR sensor polarity: Set multimeter to DC mV. Connect the positive MM lead to one of the pins and the negative to the other. Hold a piece
    1 point
  43. G4 would be done like so:
    1 point
  44. In that case the recommended option would be to do it as per Richard Hills advice - keep it simple and only add complexity where it is needed. PWM is just going to add complexity and more tuning with no real benefit.
    1 point
  45. Adamw

    R8 Coil wiring

    Pin 4 is on the left, pin 1 on the right. Pin 4 is the main power ground so needs to be decent sized wire. Pin 2 is signal ground so can be smaller. Ground both to cyl head. Pin 3 is the ign signal from ECU. Pin 1 is +12V, again needs to be decent wire. Dont give these too much dwell, they pull about 16A at 2.5ms, I usually stick around 1.8ms which is about 8A.
    1 point
  46. Fotis

    Subaru V4 STi

    How's everyone doing? Here is a vehicle that i have tuned (FworXtuning) of a customer. Made 345awhp and 56kgm torque at 1.7 bar boost . My first dyno tune how does the dyno graph look to you? Feel free to advice me Engine : EJ20K stroker 2.2L Eagle rods Mahle ceramic coated pistons Ihi VF43 stock turbo Stock cylinder head no porting Spec C top mount intercooler Tial 38mm external Fuel: D1 spec fuel regulator AEM fuel pump 355lph 105 RON fuel
    1 point
  47. boostDR

    Warm Start Struggles

    I had a similar issue. Couldn’t sort it out. Running a truck battery jumped helped which made me think the dead time vs voltage was off. But I feel that may be related to better spark to ignite the mixture The thing that fixed it completely was removing my Xspurt 1000cc injectors which had the dispersion disc machined off like other high flow injectors (ID,etc) and replacing with Bosch 3/4 long nose 980cc injectors. These have a proper dispersion cap (7 hole maybe) rather than the garden hose single outlet. All my problems went away. Black smoke disappeared, starting problems wer
    1 point
  48. I am trying to connect a monsoon ecu to work as piggyback on an s2000 ap1. I am trying to retained all factory options like tacho, engine temps etc. I am having big issues connecting it. As soon as I connect parallel one senosr (like the trigger or temp) I get ground loops with my water temp and air temp reading jumping all over the place. I also get trigger errors. Any idea how to connect it and make it work?
    1 point
  49. Easiest....2 wire sensors should be dedicated to a single ecu. ie fit a new one for the Link. Most 3 wire powered sensors, their output can be shared ok. I know what Adam is doing by connecting to inputs with no pullup resistor, but there is still a chance this can skew readings to both units giving incorrect readings. And if the crank/cam triggers are VR, 2 wire...not sure how easy these will be to share between two devices ?
    1 point
  50. Scott

    Which ECU e46 330i

    integrale8v, thanks for posting your experience. Good to know the dash does have some functionality using the Mini CAN mode. Jespermaki, if you go for a piggy back type install using the Kurofune I would let the OEM ECU continue controlling the e-throttle, and then have the Kurofune control the injectors, ignition coils, boost, and VANOS. The Kurofune is able to do traction control so long as it has access to data for a driven and non-driven wheel speed. It does this by retarding to ignition timing and by either a fuel or ignition cut. E-throttle is not required. Installing an after market EC
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...