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  1. Im not sure how relevant this is, but here is the ignition table from our V11 JDM STI test car. EJ207, quad VVT. Dead stock, 98octane RON pump gas. Most of the cells that it runs in are steady state tuned and it doesnt take much more timing than this, its a couple of degress away from knock when IAT creeps up. It runs 240kpa boost up to about 5500 then tapers away to 220kpa at the top end due to running out of injector. All of the parts that are meant to be inside the engine have managed to stay inside so far.
    3 points
  2. All of these are possible. I suggest you download and install PCLink (if you've not done so already), open it up, open an Evo base map, then also open the Help file, and start looking at the options and the help file. The Help file provided with these ECUs is the best sets of documentation I've ever seen - not only does it tell you how the software works, but also gives you help and advice on tuning, engine electrical systems and ECUs in general.
    2 points
  3. For a turbo engine like this with a plenum and single throttle your best option will be MGP on both the fuel table axis and lambda target table axis.
    2 points
  4. Just recently got it back up and running on a Monsoon-X! It was my first time building an entire harness and getting everything set-up with minimal help. It has been a great experience so far, and the car is already running better than on its previous standalone! Can’t say enough about the support offered here by both staff and other members. Hope to keep on learning!
    2 points
  5. The goal of using a timing light is to confirm what the software think is for example is 10°, is actually 10 physical degrees on your engine. You can put whatever value you want as base timing, the end goal is that it matches your engine spark timing. No skips possible without timing light
    2 points
  6. I drove my car today for the first time after changing over to my Link Monsoon-X. I was amazed at how, even in the rudimentary initial tune and tables, it already behaved significantly better than my previous standalone set-up (especially on part throttle driveability). I look forward to getting the system further dialed in, but so far it was worth every single penny. Also the Link support here is fantastic, thanks!
    2 points
  7. Adamw

    fuel level problem

    If it is always reading 5V then there is a wiring problem and it isnt going to work until you fix that.. You should see a variable voltage when it is working correctly. You can use cal table 7/8/9/10. The voltage is not usually linear with fuel level due to the shape of the fuel tank, so it is best to calibrate it by starting with an empty tank and adding known volume increments - say 20L at a time and note down voltage for each volume. Then use those numbers to make your cal table.
    2 points
  8. Vaughan

    Ecu security

    Not that I know of, the 350Z one works with our ECU but wouldn't be easy to setup in another vehicle, I personally use the DI feature in one of my vehicles but I have been tempted on more than one occasion to do something with an arduino, a serial to CAN converter and a NFC reader.
    2 points
  9. Adamw

    Percent increase shortcut

    In G4 most of the operators are shown on the pop up where you enter the value. So to add 15% you just type "+15%". To select more than one cell you shift>arrow. In G4+ selection of multiple cells is a bit easier, you can shift>arrow or click and drag or for the whole table click the top left corner. All the same operators work.
    1 point
  10. Adamw

    Normalised knock

    I had a quick look over your log. I agree it definately looks like there is some mild knock in the 5000-6000rpm region on at least a couple of cylinders. The easiest test is generally to pull 5deg out of the cells around that area and if the noise levels flatten out then it is a strong suggestion it is knock. The delta threshold is getting tripped more often than it should be and in some places it looks like it is not getting tripped when it needs to be so I think the deltas still need a bit of work. Add these channels to you log will help see what is going on. I
    1 point
  11. essb00

    g4+ resolution

    It is an issue with Windows scaling... Change it to 100%, it will look ok. Nothing can be done within PCLink to correct that.
    1 point
  12. Strange issue. Some of your settings for idle seem redundant, for example when you turn the AC request on the following things are happening: - Idle base position table switching from 3.7% to 5.1% - Engine Fan Offset adds + 1% - GP Idle Offset adds + 10% + 300RPM Idle Target - AC Idle Up Offset adds +8% + 100RPM Idle Target When AC request is turning on and off you have around 20% idle duty being added, which is crazy for ethrottle. I can see you have set a maxmium idle clamp of 4.7% so the Ethrottle dosent go to 20%, but this combination of settings seems li
    1 point
  13. Howard Coleman

    Math Block

    Thank you Vaughan for solving my puzzle.
    1 point
  14. The fuel trim is generally used along with the retard value to tune the level of boost you can reach while on the launch limiter. More retard and more fuel means more heat energy in the exhaust which means higher boost. The main thing you need to be careful of with hydraulic lifters - especially with stock valve springs is large and regular bangs in the exhaust. Each bang can lift the valve a little and the lifter fills to take up that extra lash. With each bang the lifter pumps up a little more - until eventually you get to the point that either the valve no longer seals closed enoug
    1 point
  15. Sorry I have been meaning to take another look at your log but havent had a chance the last few days. Maybe tomorrow or the weekend I will get some free time.
    1 point
  16. if that's what it was, then based on Vaughan's post it's not a fault, it's a user configurable output based on a set of conditions, that just so happens to be configured to turn on the output that the CEL is also connected to - doubling up the usage of that physical output to denote multiple things.
    1 point
  17. Adamw

    16v 4age with ITB

    One of our dealers "Panic Wire" knows many of the old school toyota's well and makes adapter harnesses for many of them - even if it's not on his website it is worth asking. I wouldnt recommend trying to make your own harness unless you are willing to invest a lot of time and money learning and possibly doing it twice. https://panicmade.com/wiring You can use the distributor or change to COP - IO dont know what the factory wiring is cabpable of if you decided to go the adapter harnes tyupe route. Air temp is nesecary, MAP sensor is nesecary if you want to use an idle control solenoid,
    1 point
  18. I would expect that the rad cap setup won't be able to flow enough volume to prevent noticeable spikes and I would expect there to be delays in its operation both of which would mean that sharp pressure spikes should be visible if you did have combustion gases entering the coolant system.
    1 point
  19. You've got pretty low voltage on the cam sensor and a few trigger errors showing. Try adjusting the trigger arming thresholds as per the examples below. And I would suggest pulling a plug out to check for spark rather than relying on just the timing light flash, that is not always conclusive.
    1 point
  20. It's like im trying to extract teeth or something... Im trying to help you in the middle of my weekend, please attach your map so I can take a look and offer the next steps in diagnosing.
    1 point
  21. A cold cranking check is use full to know if you are in the right ball park. But a warm check at different rpm should be done to check for timing drift
    1 point
  22. Can you try this map, I have changed many of your settings to more typical values. Can you log some idle time with AC on/off and some throttle blips etc, I will make some further adjustments once I see the log. 1617581754051_LA400Kkurosiba16ttt idle test.pclx
    1 point
  23. I misunderstood the units. Thank you very much for your guidance.
    1 point
  24. The resolution of the channels are hardcoded, you cannot change it. Why do you need a resolution of 0.1kpa when even a good qualtiy pressure sensor such as a honeywell PX2 has a total error band of +/-2% full scale. So if your 1000kpa oil pressure sensor only has an accuracy of +/-20kpa it seems pointless to display with a resolution of 0.1kpa?
    1 point
  25. you can use an ohm meter to test the injectors, if they are high impedance and you still have the stock resistor ballast in place its not going to control the injectors properly.
    1 point
  26. As heads up, I've also tested with wall wetting off, and car stats now like a charm like my other experiences with G4+, so that definetly came from that
    1 point
  27. From memory the block error 2 is something to do with the trigger circuit. The arming threshold shouldn’t change by itself. So I would suggest you contact tech@linkecu.com to get a service form and return the ecu for inspection. It will likely be a repair or replacement under warranty.
    1 point
  28. In g4x you can increase your target idle rpm if you are running close loop idle control. to go with that you should increase the value a bit in AC offset. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sXRUYuNwvMurabYIoaiBlnml4zIYfrdf/view?usp=sharing if you are experiencing a rpm dip right when you turn on the AC you should increase the clutch delay. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A4pxclzBfgtxftpzlxn4TQ4g40xaM2E6/view?usp=sharing maybe post you calibration file and a log that we take a look.
    1 point
  29. can you attach a log.
    1 point
  30. Mizan

    DI on Evo PNP G4X

    Got it on the website.. https://www.roadraceengineering.com/evo/tech/EVO-ecuwiring.htm ive done several conversion for oem evo ecu in which some customers who wanted the flatshift to be activated and i usually do it on the pin 43. would be great that to update the manual to help others.. but this is based on our jdm/audm model in asia.. hope this helps..
    1 point
  31. Adamw

    Error when setting can

    That error usually means you have a parameter that can only be transmitted in your receive stream. When you go to >Parameter>add, make sure you have the receive filter selected like below:
    1 point
  32. cruz177

    fuel level problem

    Thanks I have found a reading fault with a ground, since the oem installation of the car uses an analog ground that is not reading correctly link for the fuel tank I will be fixing it and I will test, I will share the fuel level adjustment table if it works. Thanks
    1 point
  33. Adamw

    Rotary fuel burn calcs.

    With G4+ if you are using traditional mode, combining the two inj DC's as you propose is the best way to do it. There will always be a fudge factor to apply to your calc due to deadtimes and other non-linearatites but once dialed in it works pretty well. We used that method in Andy Duffin's RX7 when he was running in the endurance series. If you are using modeled mode you can use the parameter "instantaneous fuel consumption" which will be a little more accurate. In G4X we have added "Virtual fuel tank" functionality which covers this much better.
    1 point
  34. Argh I see! I will definitely get the firmware sorted. and the accel enrichment ! awesome.. I thought it was only for the full throttle mash times...hence the increased deadband. I'll reduce this back down. As for the Map sensor routing, Yea I did end up plumbing it straight to the manifold, found an old vac port near the center most point. Although I did have to think about all the other stock stuff in the stock map line.. A bit of googling and I came to conclusion I didn't need it for my application. Map straight to Manifold.. Thanks for the help! very impressed with the suppor
    1 point
  35. Have changed the shortcuts to Ctrl + '.' and Ctrl + ',' will be in the next release.
    1 point
  36. Your setup looks correct to me. You might have to ask AEM for help with the dash settings as the ecu appears to be outputting the data as expected. Here is your map loaded in an ecu here with a CAN sniffer attached. You can see the coolant press of 208 (kpa) is in byte 0/1, it is on ID 1101, and is being transmitted every 0.05sec (20Hz). Sniffer is set to display ID's and data in decimal in this screenshot.
    1 point
  37. Adamw

    LS1 no trigger

    Cam signal looks ok in that scope, but no sign of anything at all from the crank. It might pay to try it with 12V.
    1 point
  38. The 2500rpm with pops and bangs is the throttle system going into safety mode, if it thinks there is a safety issue it shuts off power to the E-throttle (the spring will slightly open it to about 7% throttle) and a rev limit of 1800rpm is activated. Can you attach the tune and a short log of some pedal presses before cranking, then capture a crank/start up as well. It would be nice to capture the fault happening in a log if you can but otherwise just a log of a start up may be enough to see if it is getting close to the error triggers.
    1 point
  39. Found my issue!! The cobb pulleys "timing mark" is at least 30° off. My eyeball comparison was clearly off, glad we got it sorted out though. If I have any further issues I'll update with a trigger scope. Thank you Adam!!
    1 point
  40. No I wouldnt assume that, in fact based on my experience I would say something like 500:1 far more likely to be something other than the ecu. But Im sure they will still be happy to test the ecu. There may be a charge depending on how many hours they spend on it. Email tech@linkecu.com on Monday to arrange a service.
    1 point
  41. Your triggerscope is fine at 3000RPM, but in your other post about VVT anything below 1000RPM your cam signal shows an extra tooth. Obviously when cranking on the starter motor the RPM is less than 1000, so the extra tooth is present, this may cause the ecu to sync at the incorrect point. You need to find the cause of the extra tooth and fix it.
    1 point
  42. Unfortunately not possible in the Link software. It is on the feature request list. You have to export to CSV and crop in excel or similar.
    1 point
  43. My view is if this is only a VVT trigger and I presume the VVT doesnt start to work at a high rpm, just looked at your attached CAL (1800rpm) , I wouldn't worry about this issue , maybe the gap to the sensor is a little wide once the speed is raised the sensor can give the correct trigger signal.
    1 point
  44. V1.3 bottom board should be fine. Need to see your map. Ensure aux 4 is set to tacho and ensure no other aux, fuel or ign outputs are set to tacho.
    1 point
  45. Then tell us the version number of your ecu as I have shown above and attach a copy of your map and we will take a look.
    1 point
  46. Not to take anything away from you post, I love to see these ideas coming through - but Im just mentioning this in case you werent already aware of the "quick trim" function that has been around since the G4, it will do this same basic calculation and apply the result to the fuel table for you (you still need to manually type in the measured value though). If you have a log open and the fuel map on the same page, click on the cell in the fuel map that you want to adjust, then hit the M key, it will grab the target lambda from the lambda target table, you enter the measured lambda from the log
    1 point
  47. Here you go: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPn3zpsxhdV-DI1p5D
    1 point
  48. Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    Depends who's putting it all together and tuning it. Using the ecu could save some money as it removes the need for an external controller, but there really are a few ways you could do it, each with various pros and cons. Standalone setups are perhaps easier for a novice, but either way it will need tuned anyway so someone competent needs involved to get it all working properly.
    1 point
  49. Hi Mike, I've been planning to run a nitrous setup like this: Aux in - 1600psi Bottle pressure sensor aux in- arming switch Aux out - relay to bottle heater aux out - relay to nitrous solenoid(s) aux out - relay to purge solenoid and then run it as a dry shot, activated by a virtual aux that ensures bottle pressure is high enough, arming switch is armed, and it's above a minimum RPM. Also have a virtual aux that runs the bottle heater if you've armed the system, until the bottle pressure reaches a goal target. When nitrous activates I was planning on having the ECU switch over to a 2nd fuel
    1 point
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