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  1. Disagree, Link already has a whole bench of different wire in ECU's, like no other manufacturer. Price diff is not that biig between Furry and Thunder to add another one. 2x DBW and only 1x Lambda does not make sense in most applications. Thats my oppinion.
    2 points
  2. For basic stuff, I use a free online one called scheme-it, from Digikey. You just need to set up a log-in. One of my drawings as an example below.
    2 points
  3. Hi, My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun. I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom. This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine.
    2 points
  4. Will need a copy of your tune and a log of it happening.
    1 point
  5. Adamw

    Errors - MR2 PnP

    The communication errors are not faults, they are just debug information to help us when customers have comms issues. They are only present in PC Link and wont cause a check engine light or any fault record in the ECU. The Lambda error 16 & 33 are usually power supply related. This can be caused when they are connected to a circuit with lots of inductive noise on it - such as the same circuit as ignition coils or idle valve, or it can also be caused when the circuit is not capable of the required current (they can pull up to 8A under high loads etc). Assuming the wires are alread
    1 point
  6. Will do as suggested and report back. Thank you.
    1 point
  7. Wildt267

    Talk me into a link

    Thank you for the replies. That's more the type of information i was looking for. I appreciate it.
    1 point
  8. From my memory of bench testing and reading the current draw on my bench power supply: Typical inductive relay triggers draw less than 0.1A MAC boost solenoid less than 0.1A Wideband: up to 2A ECU Logic and power: 0.3A or less FF Sensor less than 0.1A Alt sense - never tested but I would imagine extremely low.
    1 point
  9. Vaughan

    Evo G4X plugin

    A quick compare of the two shows the differences as trigger pattern and IC Spray setup, the trigger mode would be dependent on the cam trigger as the crank triggers are identical (different pattern of teeth).
    1 point
  10. I've had to tweak the trigger thresholds on several distributor 3SGTEs/Toyotas to get no misfire or errors at idle with the Link (which is more than I ever had to do with some other ecus). Typically I would run a trigger scope at cranking and every 1000 rpm that there are threshold break points and then set the trigger threshold value to approximatly 1/2-2/3 of the scope peak reading at each break point. This has worked well for me so far.
    1 point
  11. Hi Vaughan Yes pretty much. I usually set the tablets up with a few different displays and have the status windows on there so the customer can see when things are active. With them being touch screen they seem to think the window is an on/off switch even though they usually have a switch wired in for whatever function it may be. Thought I'd bring it up as it would be quite a nice thing to have. Rough example but you get idea.
    1 point
  12. I've set up a good amount of tablet displays for customers and 9 out of 10 of them always try clicking on the status window for a certain function e.g ALS etc. I've no idea how difficult this would be to implement but think it would be fantastic for the end user. I think this could be a great option to toggle certain functions like fuel/ignition table set,boost target,fan control over-ride even as well as the motorsport features,maybe even a launch rpm bump up/down function. Not sure if someone may have asked previously but read through a good amount of pages tonight back to aro
    1 point
  13. Try this, it looks like mostly it was the fan set and the Fan2 settings. Do another cold start log with this map, then you can use that to tune the base position table. Idle changes.pclr
    1 point
  14. Update: The car went on the dyno and made a respectable 545kw at the wheels (1.5JZ GT3582R Gen II, E85), the relay issue didn’t effect the tune luckily. I looked closer at the Link wiring diagram and noticed the 12V supply for ‘control solenoids’ and ‘relay coils’ didn’t have a relay mentioned. My wiring had the ECU relay triggering another relay to supply 12V to both solenoids and relay coils. I bypassed this relay and it seems to have solved my problem. I’ll put a small fuse on the ign switch to make sure it’s not drawing too much current. I’m
    1 point
  15. dx4picco

    trigger scope

    create a time plot with the available trigger data
    1 point
  16. Adamw

    trigger scope

    Assuming you have trigger 1 edge is set to falling that scope would be good.
    1 point
  17. Yep, if the tank weren't already full of E85 (77%) then I would have started there. I'll just get it as far as I can and then let the actual tuners take it from there. Thanks! (Also, can't thank you enough for these Spearco IC pipes! )
    1 point
  18. I find it much simpler to tune petrol first, and once you tune whatever blend of ethanol and petrol you want, it is possible to extrapolate the 0% and 100% tables linearly in excel (assuming you use the same axis breakpoints on table 1 and 2).
    1 point
  19. Yes as per Timmy's comment, swap your factory MAP sensor connector and use any in its place. Same with your boost solenoid - usually easiest just to wire the new one in place of the old one.
    1 point
  20. Sounds like it's crashed There is a reset procedure Will have a look from a message I had from link HI Neil, It would be worth trying a firmware reset. To do this hold the enter key/ button down (the one at the bottom of key pad) while powering up the unit. This will reset all settings so you might have to reset the ECU type and any alarms that you ahd set up.
    1 point
  21. sixcherries

    Warm Start Struggles

    So in the above table I took the original cranking enrichment values as the 'base' value I guess you'd call it, and then added for high IAT temps... Didn't work very good. Looks like it's only using the 40% figure across all ECT temps. So I'm looking at my first 3D crank enrichment trial as a success - because now I know what not to do This is my new 3D crank enrichment table which is definitely an improvement compared to without the 3d table. I can start it without 10% throttle during crank, at high IAT temps - from heat soak. I also changed Startup Step values from 15 across the board
    1 point
  22. In all of your start attempts is syncs very quickly so I dont think it is a trigger issue. One thing I notice in your log is your accel deadband is too low so at idle due to the noise on your TPS signal you have accel enrichment continuously being pumped in. This may mean the VE numbers in your fuel table are a bit skewed from this extra accel fuel. I would also make the first two columns of you fuel table much flatter - so you have the same VE all the way down. This is because when cranking you are operating in/near the 0Kpa cell so MAP it is not a good indicator of load in thos
    1 point
  23. Unsure if I have the derivative around the right way but on the whole it seems to sit there and oscillate at 1.5Hz (on top of the 250Hz PWM speed), maybe more fiddling will improve but should do the job for now.
    1 point
  24. I've had a bit of a play with the alternator control now and what I've found is that using something like "voltage<14.7" can result in the output just turning on and off lots which appears to regulate the voltage just fine because the output is updated fast enough but it seems a bit too easy. My current setup is an attempt at closed loop control in a table like the above but I was thinking I might try and make a PID loop using mathblocks to see how well that worked. My maths is currently: Math Block 1 (Voltage Error) = (14.7 - batt Voltage)*(Engine Speed > 0) The engine speed
    1 point
  25. Adamw

    G4x rb26 hks vcam setup

    Yes, use the 3 evenly spaced teeth vvt mode, everything else should be much the same
    1 point
  26. Looks like you want more than just a Min/Max DC as you still want to be able to use 0%DC in the table, might be better for us to implement a dedicated PWM Fan controller.
    1 point
  27. koracing

    Gp pwm output clamps

    This is what I was thinking this whole thread also...
    1 point
  28. mapper

    Gp pwm output clamps

    Other suggestion: Set all 0 cells to 25 Set Output activation to: ECT> 70 deg AND IAT >60deg OR Virtual AUX X = ON Virtual AUX X ECT >80 deg and IAT >50 deg OR ECT > 90 deg This should do the job just fine. I can not think of a situation where you have IAT> 60deg and ECT< 70deg. Btw don't see how the fan has any effect on IAT....
    1 point
  29. Tim Ward

    Gp pwm output clamps

    Update time. Had a chance to test the fan code this afternoon. Although very complicated (still trying to get my head around how it works) it seems to work perfectly. Fan comes on at a min duty of 25 and off around the same! You are a genius. Would still like to see a easier way to do this (maybe I should put min/max gp dc clamps in the wishlist? along with a 'kick' feature to temporarily bump the dc up) But in the mean time, this workaround.... seems to work. Thanks for everybody's help, you guys are awesome. Merry Christmas.
    1 point
  30. Thank you for your assistance, Confused you are a legend my friend, It was as you suggested again Merry Christmas
    1 point
  31. Tim Ward

    Gp pwm output clamps

    Again, thanks for looking into this. I will give Vaughans suggestion a try. Ps. the engine speed condition was just set to >= 0, so i could monitor what the fan was doing on cool down ( car not running) so i could see when it switched off. Yeah, it didnt seem to work all that well, values below 25 were still being output as it transitioned from 89 - 90 deg. This wasnt for very long 3-5 seconds, but i suspect if the value in the 90 deg cell was lower, this transition phase would grow. It was a very choppy looking transition too, like a coarse stairstep. I tried to upload a picture
    1 point
  32. Adamw

    Gp pwm output clamps

    Here is a table setup that will give you the same result as above but with no interpolation:
    1 point
  33. Yes, it is disabled when the engine is not running. It will start heating about 20 sec after start up.
    1 point
  34. once again they are not ECU fault codes, they don't exist in the ECU, they only exist in PCLink as a way of indicating why the ECU disconnected.
    1 point
  35. See if you can follow this video: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPxBuFmXxJ1X-3hfQT?e=nF6nnL
    1 point
  36. Had a quick look at your tune and your boost target is always set to 0 which means that you are entering stage 3 as soon as boost control starts and because your Base DC Mode is set to Stage 2 and your PID values are 0s it will just keep using the wastegate DC value it had in stage 2 (which it passed through immediately).
    1 point
  37. Adamw

    Dash pot settings

    It seems this is quite variable in my experience, possibly depending on size of throttle and plenum volume etc. I will attach a few example settings from cars I have tuned but you will notice they are hugely different. The LS4 needs 7% dashpot throttle, whereas my evo needs no dash pot at all... To tune it set up a time plot with RPM and idle target one the same plot like pic below. The idea is you want the RPM to drop down to target as fast as possible without significant undershoot. Here is our LS4 race car with our default base map dash pot settings, notice the big dip under
    1 point
  38. Adamw

    EZ30D (1st gen) base map

    I will probably be able to knock something up. Im not hugely familiar with the H6 variations though. Does this one have the AVCS and the lift solenoid on the intake only? Cable throttle?
    1 point
  39. I would no necessarly agree that pwm frequency has no inlfuence. Especially at such high frequency i'ts likely the current is not a nice square wave any more. If you zoom in with a oscilloscope the tace is looking more like a sinus curve (eges rounded). Means total energy in the coil of DBW Motor( area under the curve) is less., especially at low Duty Cycles. This behavior can be seen already with 50hz+ on a Hella PWM Relay.
    1 point
  40. Adamw

    4age 16v base map

    The early G4X Atoms and monsoons only had a basic trigger scope that captures the signal after its been through the vr conditioning, so in this case the scope shows the expected pattern. @nick99 do you still have a problem? Your note above that says “everything is working now” I assume means you have rpm now?
    1 point
  41. This was a customer car with a 12 position switch (AEM I think) I remote dyno tuned. We set the swtich to allow it to blend between his minimum (pump gas) boost level and different levels on ethanol depending on switch position. I know this isn't exactly what you were asking to do, but it shows another approach to still get proper ethanol content based boost with multiple switch positions. The reason the switch position are on the x-axis of these boost tables was there wasn't 12 rows available on those tables
    1 point
  42. koracing

    Fuel pump question

    It is possible to run the ecu and engine without the ecu having any control of the pump. You do lose the option to prime and control when the pump is on obviously. At the most basic level, the ecu will do things if it sees trigger signal inputs that the engine is turning and that matches up with the trigger input settings in the ecu. It does not necessarily require more than that to operate injectors and ignition components.
    1 point
  43. dx4picco

    Fuel pump question

    Most of the time the ECU will control a relay that feeds the fuel pump. You will get +12V going to the relay and then the relay to a aux output that will provide a ground a the right time. You can also control your pump with a pwm signal depending on the model
    1 point
  44. To verify deadtime, you can set injection mode to multipoint group and switch the injection rate back and forth between 1 cycle and 1/2 cycle, while at constant fast idle. Lambda should settle to about the same value on either rate setting. If lambda changes when injection rate changes then adjust the deatime up or down until lambda is the same with either rate. Give it a few seconds to stabilize each time you make a change.
    1 point
  45. Mustang

    Porsche 944 Trigger Mode

    Adamw, Thanks for your answer, good advice. You are very correct about the worn flywheel teeth, a old problem i am fighting with for 30+ years. I have my own Porsche 944 / 60-2 Flywheel kits, a Pulley mount 60 - 2 Trigger Wheel and a 60-2 Flywheel, same as the Porsche 968 / 60-2 Flywheel but for use with the larger dia. Porsche 944 Turbo Clutch. Reason for asking is that i was looking to use the stock Flywheel for a cheapo Customer who don´t want to buy my one of my Trigger Kits.
    1 point
  46. what ecu do you have, a G4 or G4+?
    1 point
  47. Adam you are a wizard Harry. I don’t think I’ve ever had a novel of a reply in any forum. Im going to just get the Ross crank trigger today with the 36-2 disc and for factory look I’m just going to cut the oem cas disc back to make a single tooth reference. All your post was missing was my trigger setup instructions for pc link and I’m laughing hahaha Love it man Thankyou. Makes more sense now.
    1 point
  48. Adamw

    R8 Coil wiring

    Pin 4 is on the left, pin 1 on the right. Pin 4 is the main power ground so needs to be decent sized wire. Pin 2 is signal ground so can be smaller. Ground both to cyl head. Pin 3 is the ign signal from ECU. Pin 1 is +12V, again needs to be decent wire. Dont give these too much dwell, they pull about 16A at 2.5ms, I usually stick around 1.8ms which is about 8A.
    1 point
  49. Fotis

    Subaru V4 STi

    How's everyone doing? Here is a vehicle that i have tuned (FworXtuning) of a customer. Made 345awhp and 56kgm torque at 1.7 bar boost . My first dyno tune how does the dyno graph look to you? Feel free to advice me Engine : EJ20K stroker 2.2L Eagle rods Mahle ceramic coated pistons Ihi VF43 stock turbo Stock cylinder head no porting Spec C top mount intercooler Tial 38mm external Fuel: D1 spec fuel regulator AEM fuel pump 355lph 105 RON fuel
    1 point
  50. boostDR

    Warm Start Struggles

    I had a similar issue. Couldn’t sort it out. Running a truck battery jumped helped which made me think the dead time vs voltage was off. But I feel that may be related to better spark to ignite the mixture The thing that fixed it completely was removing my Xspurt 1000cc injectors which had the dispersion disc machined off like other high flow injectors (ID,etc) and replacing with Bosch 3/4 long nose 980cc injectors. These have a proper dispersion cap (7 hole maybe) rather than the garden hose single outlet. All my problems went away. Black smoke disappeared, starting problems wer
    1 point
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