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  1. It would be nice to be able to bound the max and min duty for idle control (3 wire pwm in particular) to vary either by some amount above and below the base position, or by a coolant or possibly other axis variable. It sometimes has been a bit of a hassle to get the idle, return to idle, startup, etc. all to work as smooth as I would like (granted most of the cars I'm using these on are 30 +/- years old now), and it just seems like this would aid in dialing this in a little quicker.
    2 points
  2. Hi, My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun. I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom. This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine.
    2 points
  3. Hmmm, I'm pretty sure I did, but I'll try the procedure again later when I'm back to the garage and let you know how it goes
    1 point
  4. dx4picco

    Rich misfires?

    Maybe increase a bit the trigger 2 threshold. I will let Adam give the last word but it looks like the small hump on there may give you an error
    1 point
  5. koracing

    Rich misfires?

    Typically a misfire will show as a lean spike or overall leaner running average than reality. I've had cars run on dyno so rich they did misfire, and the AFR looked like it was spot on, lol. I removed 15% fuel and the afr read richer without misfiring. Rich misfire sounds like a limiter being applied usually. I would guess you're more likely having a trigger threshold error. What is the arming voltage (logged) versus actual trigger1/2 values at that rpm? Can you run a trigger test at the rpm where that was happening?
    1 point
  6. You cant listen to it, that is not how ECU knock control works. The knock sensor is connected to the ECU and is used by the knock control strategy to try to determine when the engine is knocking. To set the knock control function up and tune it so it can reliably detect knock needs a reasonably level of experience and generally is verified in conjunction with a standalone audio knock detection device. It sounds like you will need to get a tuner involved if you want knock control.
    1 point
  7. Calibrate function did its magic and VVT works as it should , cam angle follows the VVT table. Thanks to everyone that helped with suggestions and to the great LINK support team.
    1 point
  8. Loic

    MAP Level Triggering

    Hi all to add some more information on this topic i have fine tuned the trigger 1 sync tooth for the map sync function using the trigger scope and the logging at 1000Hz as @Adamw recommended because some times we found the engine was trying not starting at first time and we need 2 or 3 attempts to get it to start. the result is impressive the car now starts perfectely. you can see on the lifeview screenshot below the yellow mark was our previous setup and now our actual setup is the white mark on tooth 44 where the map is sitting at 55.2 kpa. so big thanks adam for the technique it
    1 point
  9. Bethanyc

    IC Spray extra tables

    thanks Vaughan and Kris for the ideas, i think now have a simpler way to make it work while keeping most all the IC spray functions. i checked the logs from the 2 events i have had with the ECU in and as the 2 events were 2 extremes, one at 25 deg day the other at 40 deg, there is a very constant increase in between AIT,Oil and ECT. So i can flatten the input with the mathblock somewhat by adding the 3 values together in the mathblock and using that output to increase the duty cycle. This way if one of the values from anything increase out of the ordinary i still get the benefit of increa
    1 point
  10. I suggest you use the pinout in the G4X version of PC Link as they are now a bit more complete. Pin 40 is controlled by the jumper on the bottom board. If it is in the Evo4-7 position it is basically open circuit (Evo 4-7 used this pin for the catalytic converter warning lamp). With the jumper shorted (EVO 8 position) then pin 40 is sensor ground. Click on the image below will give you a bigger version.
    1 point
  11. Normal G4X has a different accel mode.
    1 point
  12. update on today progress, koracing, following your pointers, traced and found there is no wire in #37 in my miata, so I tested #50 assigned Aux3 in tacho setting, then switch the wire to #37 slot and managed to get it work, with a setting on HIGH side. Vaughan diagram is applicable to this 95' 1.8L Miata, no B/W wire on #37. Thank you very much, koracing and Vaughn for sharing the useful diagrams and valuable pointers. I'll work on the CEL next and noted on the knock sensor pull up.
    1 point
  13. Yeah you have a i88 or G4+ based ecu so this has a configurable CAN bus and will allow you to display any ECU related stuff on the AEM dash. Unfortunately that AEM adapter cable isnt going to be direct fit, but it will still probably be a decent starting point. Your ECU doesnt have the 6 pin round CAN plug, your CAN is on the main ECU 34pin plug. You will have to cut the round plug off the AEM cable and crimp Amp superseal 1.0 pins on the two CAN wires. The CAN L or CAN - wire goes into pin 33 and CAN H or CAN + wire into pin 34.
    1 point
  14. Adamw

    Extreme and MGX dash.

    All data is sent on unique ID's, you tell each receiving device which ID the data is on. So for instance the dash will only be looking at data on the bus with an ID of 1000. The ECU will only be looking for data with whatever ID the EGT's are on.
    1 point
  15. Vaughan and Adam, Thanks for the advice and support
    1 point
  16. Vaughan

    IC Spray extra tables

    You could use a GP PWM instead of the IC spray function if you were fine with a slightly simpler activation setup, you would have a minimum frequency of 0.6Hz (spray period of 1.67s) and you could probably get some on/off hysteresis with the activation conditions. You could also do a Math Block setup with a statement like (Oil Temp > X) | (ECT > Y) | (IAT > Z) which can be used to activate the IC spray (use the math block as the activation input). This wouldn't be increasing DC with temp but would be spraying or not spraying with temp. Alternatively if you have separate spra
    1 point
  17. With switches in "Other models" position, Trigger 1 is pin 42 or 52, Trigger 2 is pin 41 or 51. With switches in "R34" position, Trigger 1 is pin 41 or 51 and Trigger 2 is pin 42 or 52. So basically just trig 1 and 2 connections are swapped.
    1 point
  18. koracing

    IC Spray extra tables

    You want to increase the duty cycle of your IC sprayer basd on oil, water, or air temp? No a 4D table is only for fuel or ignition. I think it should be possible using Math channels and PWM output tables if you have them available to set up individual duty cycle tables. At least that's what I think should work. Something like if the IC spray function is active - add the duty cycle there to any other duty cycle parameters or something. Something like this: Obviously there would be a lot of freedom in this setup to adjust axis values and break points as well as activation logic a
    1 point
  19. You can still run the stock coils, you will just need an external ignitor. 2Channel if it is the 4 tower wasted spark coil, or 4 channel for COP. Often however it is just easier and cheaper to convert to some other coil with built in ignitors.
    1 point
  20. No. There is no ignitor on the OE coil
    1 point
  21. Relatively confident we have a solution for this unfortunately it does require a hardware change, Units will need to come in to the nearest office for the work to be done.
    1 point
  22. In that case the recommended option would be to do it as per Richard Hills advice - keep it simple and only add complexity where it is needed. PWM is just going to add complexity and more tuning with no real benefit.
    1 point
  23. Hi there, i'm having trouble to get my engine start up. When i look into trigger scope, i think it is not as what it should be. Here is the screenshot of the trigger. My engine details and ecu type : Daithatsu K3-VET Trigger pattern 36-2 on crank 3 on camshaft Using Link G4+ Evo 3 Plug in. Trigger 1 is connected to crankshaft sensor, while trigger 2 is connected to cam sensor. Both are Variable Reluctance type sensor. Below is the diagram of my original ECU. I did my wiring as such that i connected N1+ (Crank Sensor) to pin 69 (Trig 1)
    1 point
  24. It's up to you to decide based on whatever it is you're trying to achieve, and what you want each ecu to do, or how active/functional you need the OEM ecu to remain. In general, 2 wire sensors/triggers cannot be shared 3 wire powered sensors can usually share a signal.
    1 point
  25. I am trying to connect a monsoon ecu to work as piggyback on an s2000 ap1. I am trying to retained all factory options like tacho, engine temps etc. I am having big issues connecting it. As soon as I connect parallel one senosr (like the trigger or temp) I get ground loops with my water temp and air temp reading jumping all over the place. I also get trigger errors. Any idea how to connect it and make it work?
    1 point
  26. Easiest....2 wire sensors should be dedicated to a single ecu. ie fit a new one for the Link. Most 3 wire powered sensors, their output can be shared ok. I know what Adam is doing by connecting to inputs with no pullup resistor, but there is still a chance this can skew readings to both units giving incorrect readings. And if the crank/cam triggers are VR, 2 wire...not sure how easy these will be to share between two devices ?
    1 point
  27. Typically you would have the sensor ground on both ECU's connected together so they are referencing the same ground. Then for all the sensors you would only connect the signal wire - not the ground (so just the signal wire from the crank sensor to Link ecu, etc) . Obviously temp sensors will need to be connected to Volt inputs, not temp inputs.
    1 point
  28. Scott

    Which ECU e46 330i

    integrale8v, thanks for posting your experience. Good to know the dash does have some functionality using the Mini CAN mode. Jespermaki, if you go for a piggy back type install using the Kurofune I would let the OEM ECU continue controlling the e-throttle, and then have the Kurofune control the injectors, ignition coils, boost, and VANOS. The Kurofune is able to do traction control so long as it has access to data for a driven and non-driven wheel speed. It does this by retarding to ignition timing and by either a fuel or ignition cut. E-throttle is not required. Installing an after market EC
    1 point
  29. If I was to use the kurofune then the stock ECU would still be controlling e-gas and vanos? (The m54 is as you probably know double vanos) Since I didnt see any support for those on the specs for the kurofune. When doing a piggyback you would wire the sensors to the Link and then from the outputs of the Link to the ECU? Does wiring The sensors to both ecu's work? For an exempel keeping the stock wiring and also running new wires from the sensors to the Link? My thought behind this being that i'd guess that there's more than 4 sensors needed in both the Link and stock ECU (camshaftsensors, cran
    1 point
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