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  1. Leave overrun fuel cut off but setup a gp rpm limit as shown here, it should act pretty much the same as the overrun fuel cut shown but won't cut when CAN DI 1 is active.
    2 points
  2. So i finally figured it out, i can now destroy exhaust valves whenever i please. I have a stock 1uz in my SC400 with the IAC removed and just idling with the throttle stop screw around 950rpm, anything below that and it won't idle during cold starts. For the last week i've been trying to get some flames to come out the exhaust, which it used to do on the stock ECU. I'm running a monsoonx btw. After messing around with the fuel values i finally got consistent flames that i can control and they don't just happen all the time. Obviously fuel cut on Decel is OFF. My timing from 3500-6500rpm is -5 VE table from 3500-6500rpm is 75 which gives me a lambda of around 0.8-0.85. anything more rich than that and nothing happens. now here's the best part, it only does it when i give it 3% throttle on Decel. if i close the throttle entirely nothing happens at all, which is great i think so it's not constantly just a flame thrower out the back. now i wanna figure out how to get my ECUmaster CAN keyboard to turn Fuel Cut on Decel on and off, cz holy crap i'm just dumping gas out. i know this won't work for everyone, but if you're dumb like me here's some base values to start messing around with.
    2 points
  3. Howard Coleman

    error 550

    thank you
    1 point
  4. Simon

    Polaris rmk 2011

    From memory the sleds had a plug that you can connect an external power supply to and this will then liven up the ECU and the rest of the sled. At the ECU connector if you put 12V to pin 17 of the 34 pin connector and ground on to pin 15 or 16 the ECU should power up.
    1 point
  5. Nup, it is still showing missing teeth on trigger 1. Batt voltage is still much lower than normal in the log (still drops to 5V at the start of cranking) but even after it recovers to about 10V after a couple of seconds there is no RPM signal so trigger is still not happy. Im not really sure what to suggest next. The electronic hardware that records the triggerscope is separate to the ECU micro which also shows the same thing. So we have two pieces of electronic hardware that are showing us there is a problem with the trigger signal so I think it is likely they are not telling us lies. I would normally suggest it was likely the CAS at this stage but since you have already swapped that it is hard to imagine you would have 2 duds. To take the starter motor load out of the equation, what happens if you pull the CAS out and spin it by hand or with a cordless drill or similar? Do we then get RPM?
    1 point
  6. Adamw

    Inconsistent IAT

    The normal error high setting is 4.95V and error low 0.05V for a temp sensor, suggest you use these to allow the widest operating range while retaining fault detection.
    1 point
  7. For RPM you need air, so you have a large air leak somewhere between the throttle and engine. Could be the throttle partially jammed open, a large hose off or a crank in the manifold etc. Injector duty cycle is high because MAP is high - because of the air leak.
    1 point
  8. Adamw

    Cold Start AFR Help

    The rich problem is due to battery voltage. In the log below the pink traces are a good start and the coloured traces are the rich cold start. You can see where the cursor is the effective PW is about the same, but the Actual PW is very different, this is because the battery voltage is showing 10.89V Vs 13.96V so a longer deadtime is being added. I dont think this battery voltage is real due to how it is such a sharp step when it jumps back to normal. Looking through your tune you have pretty much used every table so Im suspicious you may possibly be running into some processing limitation. I would first try updating to the latest firmware. If that doesnt solve it I would then try temporarily turning those 6 ign trim tables that are doing nothing.
    1 point
  9. Adamw

    Haltech ic7

    Correct, the displaylink stream is the same as the generic dash stream. Oil pressure is transmitted as well as fault codes, but I dont know if the IC7 allows you to set up warnings based on those.
    1 point
  10. Adamw

    Polaris rmk 2011

    Im not sure sorry, I have a lack of experience with this type of vehicle. We dont even get snow where I live and Link stopped making those ECU's long before I started working here so I dont know much about them. I believe all sales and tech support of the snowmobile ECU's was done by a company in Canada as they had most of the knowledge. Simon has worked here longer than me so hopefully he knows more. I assume there must be some way to power it up without the engine running - otherwise you would never be able to change a map or update firmware.
    1 point
  11. This may help too:
    1 point
  12. IAT should go to Temp 4 on the left hand expansion plug. Lambda goes to the grey circled one.
    1 point
  13. This sounds like the parameter config file is corrupted. This is stored in two places. Lets try the easy fix first. With PC Link closed, Type this into the windows search bar and hit enter: %AppData% That should take you to the roaming folder. Find the PCLink folder in there and delete the two files that are in there - should be "DefaultParameterConfig & Options2". Open PC Link again and these files will be recreated. See if that solves your scaling/colour problem. If not I will give you a new master copy.
    1 point
  14. You will need two resistors if you need to divide the voltage to be measured. The analog inputs only have a 1Mohm pulldown.
    1 point
  15. I've love this change to be back-ported to the G4+ too, please!
    1 point
  16. Hi, My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun. I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom. This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine. Results were unexpected: (Colour scale is cam angle, blue is 0 degrees advance) The engine pretty much hated having any cam advance at all over say 3000rpm. As opposed to my other engine where it likes lots of advance right to say 6500rpm then tapers off. I also noticed that the mass air flow rate just absolutely flatlines when you got to around 4000rpm. I didnt have a map sensor connected, but my suspicions were that it relates to the absolutely tiny throttle body, and the super long skinny runner on the intake manifold. There didnt look to be a particularly easy way to fit a bigger throttle body, as the whole manifold is plastic and there's not much scope for boring it out. So looking in the parts bin, I had some silvertop 4AGE throttles in the garage. I have a 3D printer that could bang together a usable prototype so after a few adjustments ended up with this. Then printed some trumpets to available clearance. Everything fit up surprisingly easily, the most expensive part of the swap (of parts I didnt already have) was just buying a radiator hose so I could move the filler cap a little further over. Results - were amazing! Instead of flatlining at 4000rpm, it just kept going up. I'd keep revving it a bit higher to help mitigate the crummy gearing from 1st to 2nd, but it starts getting valve bounce at around 7200rpm. Also, now since the pressure differential from intake side to exhaust side has lessened (less intake vacuum at WOT) the engine now likes having more cam advance to make use of some scavenging. Virtual dyno showing really good gains, and the difference in the fuel map backed this up too. I took this car to the drags last year for a laugh, and when standard it ran a 17.6 @ 77mph with a 2.5 sec 60foot. So I wanted to try beat this as best I could, so setup a basic launch control using just rpm limiter with vehicle speed as a load axis I figure I can tweak the 0kph limit up or down to set how much initial wheelspin it has, and then tweak the decay rate to calm down any excessive wheelspin as it gains speed. Some testing was looking promising but I also havent really been in the mood to deal with a blown up clutch so I didnt spend too much time on it. The printed manifold got some reinforcing just in case. Come to drag day. I think this launch control method would have worked well if I was doing a burnout to scuff the tyres. But since I was clutch concious I was just rolling through. So the tyres would get wet to a varying degree and also the rubber debris you pick up varies from run to run. So I found it was a bit inconsistent. None the less, managed to improve the PB significantly to 16.4 @ 83mph. With a slower 60ft at 2.6 seconds So possibly even quicker however I only completed a minimal amount of runs for sake of clutch preservation. (I've owned this car since 30,000km, it's now on 195,000km with original clutch) It's actually been heaps of fun, and it's a completely different car to drive with the better intake. I've got a gearbox ready to fit with better final drive ratio and gearing from the RS model, and a torsen LSD to fit in it. I'll also chuck the 1500cc motor in at some point, I'd imagine it would dip into the 15 second bracket pretty easy with that combo. And it's great because all of the parts are hilariously cheap. If I could wring 100hp per litre out of the 1500cc setup it would be pretty hilarious to drive, as it's only around 800kg. Still not the same power to weight ratio as my other car, however, would be a heap of fun to do some autocross/hillclimbs/small track stuff with.
    1 point
  17. Not to take anything away from you post, I love to see these ideas coming through - but Im just mentioning this in case you werent already aware of the "quick trim" function that has been around since the G4, it will do this same basic calculation and apply the result to the fuel table for you (you still need to manually type in the measured value though). If you have a log open and the fuel map on the same page, click on the cell in the fuel map that you want to adjust, then hit the M key, it will grab the target lambda from the lambda target table, you enter the measured lambda from the log and it will apply the correction to that cell for you.
    1 point
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