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  1. Hi, My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun. I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom. This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine. Results were unexpected: (Colour scale is cam angle, blue is 0 degrees advance) The engine pretty much hated having any cam advance at all over say 3000rpm. As opposed to my other engine where it likes lots of advance right to say 6500rpm then tapers off. I also noticed that the mass air flow rate just absolutely flatlines when you got to around 4000rpm. I didnt have a map sensor connected, but my suspicions were that it relates to the absolutely tiny throttle body, and the super long skinny runner on the intake manifold. There didnt look to be a particularly easy way to fit a bigger throttle body, as the whole manifold is plastic and there's not much scope for boring it out. So looking in the parts bin, I had some silvertop 4AGE throttles in the garage. I have a 3D printer that could bang together a usable prototype so after a few adjustments ended up with this. Then printed some trumpets to available clearance. Everything fit up surprisingly easily, the most expensive part of the swap (of parts I didnt already have) was just buying a radiator hose so I could move the filler cap a little further over. Results - were amazing! Instead of flatlining at 4000rpm, it just kept going up. I'd keep revving it a bit higher to help mitigate the crummy gearing from 1st to 2nd, but it starts getting valve bounce at around 7200rpm. Also, now since the pressure differential from intake side to exhaust side has lessened (less intake vacuum at WOT) the engine now likes having more cam advance to make use of some scavenging. Virtual dyno showing really good gains, and the difference in the fuel map backed this up too. I took this car to the drags last year for a laugh, and when standard it ran a 17.6 @ 77mph with a 2.5 sec 60foot. So I wanted to try beat this as best I could, so setup a basic launch control using just rpm limiter with vehicle speed as a load axis I figure I can tweak the 0kph limit up or down to set how much initial wheelspin it has, and then tweak the decay rate to calm down any excessive wheelspin as it gains speed. Some testing was looking promising but I also havent really been in the mood to deal with a blown up clutch so I didnt spend too much time on it. The printed manifold got some reinforcing just in case. Come to drag day. I think this launch control method would have worked well if I was doing a burnout to scuff the tyres. But since I was clutch concious I was just rolling through. So the tyres would get wet to a varying degree and also the rubber debris you pick up varies from run to run. So I found it was a bit inconsistent. None the less, managed to improve the PB significantly to 16.4 @ 83mph. With a slower 60ft at 2.6 seconds So possibly even quicker however I only completed a minimal amount of runs for sake of clutch preservation. (I've owned this car since 30,000km, it's now on 195,000km with original clutch) It's actually been heaps of fun, and it's a completely different car to drive with the better intake. I've got a gearbox ready to fit with better final drive ratio and gearing from the RS model, and a torsen LSD to fit in it. I'll also chuck the 1500cc motor in at some point, I'd imagine it would dip into the 15 second bracket pretty easy with that combo. And it's great because all of the parts are hilariously cheap. If I could wring 100hp per litre out of the 1500cc setup it would be pretty hilarious to drive, as it's only around 800kg. Still not the same power to weight ratio as my other car, however, would be a heap of fun to do some autocross/hillclimbs/small track stuff with.
    7 points
  2. New update is available here: https://linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ Release notes: https://www.linkecu.com/pclink/Link Engine Management PC Link G4X Updates 21042021.pdf Important notes: This firmware changes the sync point in some triggermodes so base timing must be checked after doing this update. There is a new "Slow Comms" setting added, this may help those with communication problems that are due to some laptops with USB ports that are slow to respond. This a an ECU setting so the ecu needs the latest firmware instaled before you will have this setting available, you will find it in the main configuration menu (where you set number of cylinders and engine type etc). Any new issues related to this update can be reported here.
    4 points
  3. I know this is becoming a bit of a blogpost, but I've managed to get it to work flawlessly now. This is just for anyone that is interested in getting a few pops and bangs on a gearchange/downshift without having fuel cut off all of the time, and, with some overlapping 4D and fuel cut ignition tables. Disclaimer: I am not a tuner, simply a novice that is taking a bit of interest. Above are my settings for this. Cutting the long story even longer: The fuel cut is on, but it takes 2 seconds to initiate because of the "activation delay" parameter. Within these 2 seconds, we want the 4D Ign table to take over, but only for these 2 seconds, and then we want to return to "Normal over-run fuel cut timing" after these 2 seconds are over. This is activated by Virtual aux 1. Virtual aux 1 is "On" when: MAP > 40kPa & Timer 1 <= 2 Seconds & ECT > 70 Degrees C We have Timer 1 on virtual aux 2 that activates when TPS%<8 (Same as fuel-cut) We have Timer 1 set to 3 seconds (3 seconds is arbitrary, as long as it is >2 seconds, we are okay) The 2 seconds on the timer are important, as we don't want any overlap (Although I'm not sure if it would make any difference when there is no fuel being injected). Once the timer is above 2 seconds, the "Pops and bangs" in the 4D table switch off, and the overrun fuel cut takes over. It is also important to have the polarity for the timer as "Reset on Off/On edge", as we want the 4D to only activate when we take our foot off the throttle. The "Off/on edge" means that the timer resets when VA2 starts. Below is the time plot for this, which should explain it better than I can on how this works. (Please note, pops and bangs 4D is called "Chav mode"). Shout out to @koracingand @VaughanI've learned a hell of a lot from this, so I appreciate all of your support. Kind regards, Beefy
    4 points
  4. Adamw

    SPAM on LINK Forum

    Thanks, I woke to several similar reports this morning, it seems to be all related to the same user so they have been flagged as a spammer and all posts/messages should now have been removed.
    4 points
  5. dx4picco

    Fuel Cut Anti-Lag

    aren't you mixing antilag and launch control? antilag is made to spool the turbo when being off throttle, with letting air pass combined with a late combustion to make more exhaust gas energy spooling the turbo. there would be no point doing a fuel cut in this strategy
    3 points
  6. So things escalated a bit... It turns out that the Toyota Prius C / Aqua uses a modified 1NZFE motor (1NZFXE) to suit hybrid application. So this means it has 13.4:1 compression, ceramic coated pistons, electric waterpump, lighter crank shaft, and a few other goodies that also make sense for things other than a 75hp atkinson cycle motor. So I bought some JUN 264 deg cams, stiffer valve springs, fitted ITB, fitted an alternator (normally no belt driven accessories and then paired it with a close ratio Vitz RS gearbox. The difference is outstanding! Currently no VVTI working and it's still a completely standard Echo exhaust which is far from optimal. I havent been to any events but it's done a 5.8 second 0-100kph with the open diff. It's using 66% duty cycle with 310cc 2ZZGE injectors at 55psi. Being able to rev it higher, and the close ratio box with a 4.3 final drive has made a massive massive difference. The noise it makes now is hilarious, none of the performance or sound at all matches the general aura of the car. LSD is on the to-do list!
    3 points
  7. Adamw

    Dry sump cold start .

    Do it as part of your normal Oil pressure safety, but set the startup lockout to 0 so it is also working during startup (with road cars usually you dont want it to limit during starting). Suggest fuel cut so you dont flood it. Example below wouldnt allow the engine to start until 30kpa oil pressure was seen (0 RPM limit).
    3 points
  8. Im not sure how relevant this is, but here is the ignition table from our V11 JDM STI test car. EJ207, quad VVT. Dead stock, 98octane RON pump gas. Most of the cells that it runs in are steady state tuned and it doesnt take much more timing than this, its a couple of degress away from knock when IAT creeps up. It runs 240kpa boost up to about 5500 then tapers away to 220kpa at the top end due to running out of injector. All of the parts that are meant to be inside the engine have managed to stay inside so far.
    3 points
  9. I still think it would be useful to be able to know that the mixture map is being applied with the ST corr. and the LT corr. accounted for. I'd happily just use the LTT map if there was a way to apply it's learned values directly to the ve table of my choice. Like a copy and paste special mulitply by percent as well as if it was possible to use one or two LTT tables to get the axis values to match the VE table in question directly.
    3 points
  10. mapper

    Normalised knock

    I've helped with development of the new knock normalised mode and done lots of Beta testing. The Knock Normalised Mode has the big benefit that it will adapt to increased noise level, when your engine wear over time and consequently produce more background noise. In tradional mode this will lead to false knock detection. In general speaking Knock Normalised mode will adapt to changing background noise levels and should need less adjustment from engine to engine, once you have a good basemap worked out. It also allows better adjustment how much ignition retard is applied, based on knock level detected. It is meant to use all the tables, which are shown in PC LINK in this mode. I would start with a small Knock Target Table. Break points every 1000rpm and on y-axis every 50kpa (boosted engine) should be sufficient. A filled table of 2.0 should be a good to starting point. During transient engine operation the knock levels are going higher. In the tradional mode lockouts for delta rpm and tps where set. In Knock Normalised Mode it is meant to use all the Knock Transient Tables to keep knock control active all the time. The Knock Normalised Levels will increase even more, during transient operation, than in traditional mode. The idea with all the transient threshold tables is to increase temporarly the knock treshold, instead of just deactivating knock control. As a starting point fill the Knock Normalised MAP and RPM Delta Level tables with factor 1.5. The Knock Normalised Delta RPM and RPM threshold defines when the knock multiplicator above is applied. Setting is very dependand how stable your knock engine speed ROC and knock Map Delta channels are. If there are too noisy you can apply more filter to get this channel(s) smoothed. I recommend the following order for setup and tuning. 1. setup function as suggested above 2. adjust knock noise filter (same process as in tradional mode) 3. calibrate knock target table in steady state conditions 4. calibrate all knock transient tables, so knock target is little above knock levels in all knock free transient condions. Notes: - you can calibrate knock input filter also in tradional knock mode. This setting will be the same in both modes. - it is normal behavior that knock normalised levels go higher during transient than in steady state operation - as always when you calibrate knock detection system use knock ears! - Important knock level detected must be logged with internal logger with at least 200hz (better more) to show peak values correct in PC Link
    3 points
  11. Gregconboy158

    Unhappy

    To jump in on this I've always felt the advice and guidance from the team (Adam) to be 2nd to none, I've always had the help and resolutions I've needed and would in turn recommend link to anyone.
    3 points
  12. Not to take anything away from you post, I love to see these ideas coming through - but Im just mentioning this in case you werent already aware of the "quick trim" function that has been around since the G4, it will do this same basic calculation and apply the result to the fuel table for you (you still need to manually type in the measured value though). If you have a log open and the fuel map on the same page, click on the cell in the fuel map that you want to adjust, then hit the M key, it will grab the target lambda from the lambda target table, you enter the measured lambda from the log and it will apply the correction to that cell for you.
    3 points
  13. So i finally figured it out, i can now destroy exhaust valves whenever i please. I have a stock 1uz in my SC400 with the IAC removed and just idling with the throttle stop screw around 950rpm, anything below that and it won't idle during cold starts. For the last week i've been trying to get some flames to come out the exhaust, which it used to do on the stock ECU. I'm running a monsoonx btw. After messing around with the fuel values i finally got consistent flames that i can control and they don't just happen all the time. Obviously fuel cut on Decel is OFF. My timing from 3500-6500rpm is -5 VE table from 3500-6500rpm is 75 which gives me a lambda of around 0.8-0.85. anything more rich than that and nothing happens. now here's the best part, it only does it when i give it 3% throttle on Decel. if i close the throttle entirely nothing happens at all, which is great i think so it's not constantly just a flame thrower out the back. now i wanna figure out how to get my ECUmaster CAN keyboard to turn Fuel Cut on Decel on and off, cz holy crap i'm just dumping gas out. i know this won't work for everyone, but if you're dumb like me here's some base values to start messing around with.
    2 points
  14. Leave overrun fuel cut off but setup a gp rpm limit as shown here, it should act pretty much the same as the overrun fuel cut shown but won't cut when CAN DI 1 is active.
    2 points
  15. Most of your basic set up looks ok. I would change the fuel system type to "FP sensor" since you have one, but your fuel pressure looks about right so that is not going to solve the high VE numbers. Accel enrichment is turned off so I would suggest copying the values out of our supra base map for that. I dont really see an obvious reason for the high VE numbers. I have had a user with ID1700X injectors before that had really high VE numbers at idle due to the deadtimes not being correct with the Link drivers, but since your VE numbers are high at both idle and higher loads that would be less likely related to deadtime and something that is more linear with fuel flow. How sure are you the injectors are ID1050X's - did you by new? Is the MAP sensor definately a Link 4 bar? Is the fuel pressure sensor definately a 150psi sensor? The knock sensors basically just show "noise level", you need to program the knock threshold so that the ecu knows what is normal noise and what is considered knock. Usually this would be done after tuning when you have an ignition table that you know is not knocking. Your threshold is currently set to 1000 so it is never going to consider anything knock. Your knock retard limit is set to zero so it cant retard. The 2J knock sensors usually dont work well with aftermarket ECU's so probably best to replace that with a Bosch flat response sensor before messing with knock control.
    2 points
  16. If you put a 100-200ohm resistor between the signal wire and ground that should drop your max voltage down to around 4-4.5V.
    2 points
  17. I had found this thread, and there didn't seem to be a conclusion. Hence the months later bump... I've been trying to set up alternator control on my NB2 miata with G4X fury. These are the results of a brief test, still a lot of fiddling to do, but the strategy seems to be on the right track. Definitely better than the bang-bang setup I had before. I'll update this later once I figure out better gains The PWM frequency is 250Hz constant, not sure if that is appropriate. Given that the math blocks run at 1kHz, averaging the error across some integer multiple of 4ms seems to be a good idea (still need to play with how many averages works best). I used a 'dt' function, instead of the simple 'current - previous' derivative calc proposed above I used some different axis breakpoints in the GP PWM table, to normalize the gains in math block 4 - they wouldn't fit otherwise. I think I can also move the "+4" term in math block 4 into the GP PWM table, to claim some more character space back.
    2 points
  18. Alright @Adamw, where do I send beer? haha...that did it! It runs incredibly smooth now. Thank you so much for your help as always and thank you as well @0x33 for your input. It ran great without break up on 2.0ms dwell time at 14v so I'm gonna keep it there unless I have issues on E85.
    2 points
  19. If yours is reading 0psi at atmospheric pressure then it is a gauge pressure sensor which is the correct type for fuel and and does not need any math. The original posters sensor is an absolute pressure sensor so would read something like 14.5psi with sensor removed from the rail.
    2 points
  20. If its a road car that will be fine. If it is a race car that runs full load for significant periods of time then it would probably be better to move it further down stream.
    2 points
  21. Adamw

    COP conversion MX5 NA

    Although not commonly done, those feedback (you call tach) pins should be ok commoned up like that. Most people wouldnt connect them at all as Vaughan says but the FT60 project I was involved in that used similar coils had them all spliced together and they worked fine. Can you tell us what ecu pins those wire colors relate to. But both those coils are wired to the same trigger, why do you say only coil 1 should be firing? Both 1 and 4 should be sparking when you do a test on ign 1.
    2 points
  22. Assign your switch to a spare digital input on PCLink. Then setup the following to be similar. Fill table two wastegate duty and boost target map as desired. Every time you press the switch you will switch to your secondary boost tables for higher boost and hold it for 10 seconds.
    2 points
  23. I got it! Is the GND connected right? I think you need to connect LG1(A26) and LG2(A24) to the GND. And make sure PG1(A4) and PG2(A2) are also connected to GND correctly.
    2 points
  24. Yes that is pretty normal, it is due to the the fuel film evaporating from the port walls. Basically the opposite effect causes the lean patch when you open the throttle (if no accel enrichment was implemented). Some ECU's have a wall wetting model or a "decel enleanment" feature to improve it but we dont at this time. I like Shane T's demonstation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTXPF-6M1D0
    2 points
  25. The 5V supply is rated for 400mA at its specified accuracy. So typically enough for 30-50 sensors.
    2 points
  26. Hi, a New Member just sent me a message, but it's SPAM, SCAM or Porn with a link to open. Can you please review this New Member ( alinkaa ) Thank You, Tim Hampton
    2 points
  27. Vaughan

    2GR-FE Wiring

    one pin to switched power, one to an Aux, doesn't matter which way around the pins are, I used Aux1-4 but any of Aux1-10 and any spare inj or ign pins will suit from memory. I ran Bank 1 Inlet (rear bank) to Trigger 2 and used DI1-3 for the other 3 banks, DI4 can be also be used but you do need to connect Trig2 to one of the cams. I can't remember which way round I wired it but one of the crank pins to Trig 1 and the other to signal ground, it is quite easy to tell from a triggerscope whether or not you have these two the right way around, they do have to be a particular way. I just used the Link Looms so Shielded Trig 1&2 but not the other cam sensors. I've attached a copy of my basemap from a while ago, my engine has Cams and slightly bumped compression and there are a few other things setup in there like the ECU controlling the temperature gauge and speedo. That being said it should be fine for figuring out the basics and getting the engine started. 2GR 309whp.pclx Have just realised that this is in the G4+ forum, your setup will be slightly different again if you are using a G4+ but the gist of it is the same
    2 points
  28. All of these are possible. I suggest you download and install PCLink (if you've not done so already), open it up, open an Evo base map, then also open the Help file, and start looking at the options and the help file. The Help file provided with these ECUs is the best sets of documentation I've ever seen - not only does it tell you how the software works, but also gives you help and advice on tuning, engine electrical systems and ECUs in general.
    2 points
  29. For a turbo engine like this with a plenum and single throttle your best option will be MGP on both the fuel table axis and lambda target table axis.
    2 points
  30. The goal of using a timing light is to confirm what the software think is for example is 10°, is actually 10 physical degrees on your engine. You can put whatever value you want as base timing, the end goal is that it matches your engine spark timing. No skips possible without timing light
    2 points
  31. Adamw

    fuel level problem

    If it is always reading 5V then there is a wiring problem and it isnt going to work until you fix that.. You should see a variable voltage when it is working correctly. You can use cal table 7/8/9/10. The voltage is not usually linear with fuel level due to the shape of the fuel tank, so it is best to calibrate it by starting with an empty tank and adding known volume increments - say 20L at a time and note down voltage for each volume. Then use those numbers to make your cal table.
    2 points
  32. remski2

    SR20 LOSES POWER

    Hi. Log3 From what I see you are hitting a rpm limit (fuel cut) thus going lean around 7K rpm. First instance you going lean around 6600, log shows you are still on the throttle. (could be the way its logged) Next I've noticed your voltage drops from 14.5 down to 13.8.. Not terrible but odd. (pulley slipping perhaps ?) Log4 You are hitting 15.7V during idle.. Thats a bit too high. You hitting fuel cut for some reason.. First cut is due to rpm limit which you seem to hit quite often. But I cant tell why the 2nd cut is kicking in... There is also Ignition correction at that time and I dont see where its coming from. (6.5 table vs 1.5) Hope this helps Ha ha.. Found it ... You have speed limit enabled !!!!
    2 points
  33. Hi. I dont have the scaling for temp but that should be pretty easy. Seems like both fuel and oil pressure sensors are the same. Here is the scaling that I made. Assumption here is that the sensor is linear. (forgot to mention that from what I've read, ecu and defi control unit need to be connected to the same groud point)
    2 points
  34. Or even being able to customize FN / shortcut keys?
    2 points
  35. As for IAT heat soaking I have found using a 4D table like this has helped cure lots of my personal RB engines for restarts with heat soaked IAT and fuel rail, where the engine would run very lean momentary until the heat soaking would cool off. I didn't like just increasing the values too much in the post start enrichment table at operating temps because I only get heat soaking after 10+ mins of being turned off. No need for rich restarts if I just have the car off for a short period of time. The post start decay time table at operating temps is a little longer, around 10 seconds. It worked for my applications but I'm sure it could have been finessed but gives you some ideas.
    2 points
  36. When your engine is running, you would want to have the smallest ground loop to the power source -- which is the alternator (unless your engine runs without one), which is why it is recommended to have the grounds connected on the engine block/cylinder head. Smaller ground loop means minimal chances that other accessory loads would be having to share the same ground (having more resistance) to the power source. More grounds, less resistance. Then there is less chance the ECU would be picking electromagnetic interference from ignition system. If you have the ECU grounds connected to battery negative, it would still have to share the ground wire from the battery negative to engine block with other accessories.
    2 points
  37. Yep, here is an example:
    2 points
  38. Looks like I missed one setting, change the RPM lock out to 400RPM will probably help the stalling after blips.
    2 points
  39. Simon

    FTD2XX.DLL is missing

    It looks like a solution to this is to shift where the driver is located. If you move the ftd2xx.dll file from the C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X\Link USB Drivers\i386\ftd2xx.dll folder to C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X
    2 points
  40. Yeah I agree, not great wording on my part. What I was trying to cover is if those particular coils only have a single ground pin or multiple. Probably K20 coils with 3 wires if I were to hazard a guess. Some coils have more than a single ground wire - and when they do they are usually connected to circuits that are better to be kept as separate loops. For instance the common IGN1a, they have 3 isolated grounds - secondary winding ground goes to cyl head, primary winding ground goes to batt neg, logic ground goes to ecu sensor ground. They would usually work fine all connected to the same point, but will be more tolerant to noise and will be more resistant to false triggers if done separately. In this case if they are 3 wire coils, I would typically run the ground wire from each coil separately to the ground point, but then all crimped into a single eyelet at the cyl head.
    2 points
  41. Yes, if the fuel table has been tuned using a lambda with a significantly wrong calibration, the the fuel table will need to be re-tuned.
    2 points
  42. G4X is working properly now! changed the firing order to 300ZX and it started right up! Sorry to have wasted everyone so much time, and thanks so much for you and your team's help. I appreciate it. I had no idea the shop who built the car used a 300Z ECU until now, i don't know what the reason was .... I changed the pins back to factory on the ECU connector after we confirmed G4X is working.
    2 points
  43. It would be nice to be able to bound the max and min duty for idle control (3 wire pwm in particular) to vary either by some amount above and below the base position, or by a coolant or possibly other axis variable. It sometimes has been a bit of a hassle to get the idle, return to idle, startup, etc. all to work as smooth as I would like (granted most of the cars I'm using these on are 30 +/- years old now), and it just seems like this would aid in dialing this in a little quicker.
    2 points
  44. Disagree, Link already has a whole bench of different wire in ECU's, like no other manufacturer. Price diff is not that biig between Furry and Thunder to add another one. 2x DBW and only 1x Lambda does not make sense in most applications. Thats my oppinion.
    2 points
  45. Knox

    G4X 2D launch control

    Thanks, I make driven wheel speed source to gp speed 1 (like driving wheels) and 3d mode with single axis like Vaughan wrote and works perfect now.
    2 points
  46. Thats a typo you have found there sorry, I will get that fixed up. Corrected note below. So yes you can use A8/Aux 8 & A11/Aux 7 for what ever you wish and you dont need to worry about A9/10.
    2 points
  47. 2 points
  48. @Gsab I've been visiting this forum every day for a couple of years now, and have been reading every new thread that's posted, and I agree - you can learn a LOT about how the ECU works just by doing so, and also HUGE respect to @Adamw for his professionalism and patience (even when he didn't work for Link for a while - I think he's back officially now?) - especially when, as you said, most people do not come back to say thanks! It reminds me a little of this: XKCD: Wisdom of the Ancients One thing I don't like about Haltech is that they discourage you from using the forum, and prefer you to call them. That means as a new (or potential) user, you don't have the ability to look back over issues people have had and see their resolution, so it's likely you'll make similar mistakes to others.
    2 points
  49. There are definitely plans in the future to investigate other comms options for the next generation of ecu's, but with G4X we have stuck with USB so that PC Link didnt need a complete re-write as well (Months, if not years of work for our small team). The comms chipset that is in the G4X is capable of native high speed USB 2.0 as well - not only the virtual com port system that is being used at present so in theory it has the potential to be very fast. I believe this is being worked on. Ethernet is nice and robust, resilient to noise and makes wireless easy, but it has some significant negatives too. You need a server running on you laptop which becomes quite complex - especially as PC security gets stricter everyday around IP. For example with most ECU's that use ethernet comms that I have used you need to assign a static IP to your ethernet port and you cant access internet or a network (via wifi) while connected to the ecu - so no saving files to a network location or retrieving from your onedrive etc. We have many users that struggle to install a simple USB driver, so you can imagine the potential headache a more complex server install and configuring ethernet adapters, IP addresses etc could cause. Not impossible if the software and documentation is done well (Motec is pretty easy setup for example), but still a potential big can of worms. It is also not as fast as you think. Fast Ethernet is 100Mbps theoretical max, the few ECU's I have experience with only get about 30Mbps max in real life. USB2.0 is 480Mbps theoretical max. USB3.0 is 5Gbps.
    2 points
  50. I will add a little more info here since I have quite a bit of experience in this strategy. I agree with ECU settings as per Scott's suggestions, but I would say nearly always it would be worth while to have a "MAP sensor" connected also. In this case however you don't connect the MAP sensor to manifold, you connect it to the airbox (your FPR reference should also be tee'd to this same measurement point). The ecu and FPR will then keep fuelling more consistent when the airbox is subjected to aerodynamic effects. If airbox and general intake design is good I often see 4-10Kpa positive pressure (ie you will need 4-10% more fuel) on high speed sections so it can be a significant effect.
    2 points
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