Mattg1994

Ah, my mistake. All seems to be fixed now, I'm guessing it was a grounding issue. The motor got it's first start and everything seems to be working perfectly. I am stuck on the internal wideband setup though. I am assuming I am supposed to set up Lambda 1 as internal which I have done but the Lambda just reads 0 and there is no Lambda 1 in the runtime list. Could this be caused by a faulty sensor or is there more setup involved? Lambda 1 status is reading "OK".

Hi Adam Are you suggesting to bypass the factory relay? This worked fine on the plugin g4+ that I had previously so I am guessing now that maybe it is a grounding issue as I haven't altered the circuit whatsoever, the wiring diagram that I found shows no grounding through the ecu for the fuel pump though which is why this is strange. Factory wiring diagram is below - all I have done is cut pin C12 and connected it to Aux 1, Pin B33 is shown as open circuit on the motec pinout that I have been using so I haven't connected this to anything. I will look for a grounding issue today and report back.

Hi Guys I've wired a G4X Fury into my 06 Subaru WRX. Having issues with the fuel pump. I have wired the fuel pump to Aux 1 and set it up as a 3 Speed PWM Module. The fuel pump just constantly primes with Ign on, even set to 1s prime time. I have tried to set the Active state between Low and High and this just stop the pump priming completely. I have wired it to the factory FP speed wire at the factory ECU plug which then goes through a relay and to the controller. I have a surge tank which uses the ground from the factory pump wiring to switch a relay and run the surge tank pump. This worked fine before on my plugin ecu but now seems to want to run non-stop even with the key off - this may be a separate issue or possibly my FPC has shit the bed. Any help is appreciated. File attached. Subaru Impreza EZ30 pre-start.pclx

Yeah, i just realised that my gauge reads inHg in vacuum and that it scales different from psi, i guess that solves that issue. Still a bit concerned about the difference in output voltages between the two sensors though..

Hey guys, recently converted my car to e85 and took it to get tuned. The tuner said the MAP sensor i bought (OMNI 4Bar, part: map-sti15-4br) would only calibrate as a 3 bar. Now i told the company i bought it off about the issue and they sent me a new one claiming it was from a different batch so very unlikely to also be faulty. I also replaced the plug to the map sensor because the ground seemed to be missing a couple strands and then tried to calibrate the map sensor with the settings provided by omni (.6V = 30kpa / 4.75v = 400kpa). The calibration was completed and it was reading 14.6psi MAP, however when i start my car and it is idling the MAP reads 7psi vacuum and my boost gauge reads about 14psi vacuum which seems to me like the calibration must be out? I then tested the output voltage from both new and old sensors, keep in mind they are the exact same sensor and one was giving me 1.376V and the other 1.4V. Is it normal for MAP sensors to be this different even though they are the exact same part? I will try to contact OMNI to see if they know what the deal is, however i was hoping someone here could offer me some guidance in the meantime. Cheers.

Ok, so some more info and an update. The car is running on 98 and has never had anything else in it. The turbo is a gtx3076r, the engine was run-in a couple months ago. It was running on 1 bar of boost (gate pressure) for that time, about 1500-2000kms. The day the engine failed, we were out road tuning. We increased the boost to 20psi, did multiple pulls to make sure it was steady and then started tinkering with the timing, he claims he heard a knock in his headset once during a pull and dropped the timing down where he thought it knocked, we did a few more pulls and he said it was still knocking in the same spot, he dropped some more timing in and around the same area and we did 1 more pull, 3rd to 4th, we hit the end of 4th gear and i clutched in and put it in neutral and it stalled instantly. He told me to roll-start it and it was knocking really bad so i turned it off straight away, we pulled over and there was smoke coming out of the breathers. He told me it spun a bearing and said it was my fault because he claimed i didn't put enough oil in it. I had an actual engine shop pull it apart, they told me the bearings are fine and that the pistons in cylinders 2 and 4 were destroyed. My guess is that because of the increase in manifold pressure it was going to areas of the ignition map that it wasn't before and those areas were too aggressive, causing it to knock itself to pieces. I was quoted 6k for the engine shop to rebuild it. Lesson learnt, don't listen to people that tell you they know how to tune unless they can prove it beforehand.

Hi, so i have a Version 10 WRX and was wondering how close the base map that comes in the link software is to a stock wrx map. Basically i had an engine built and tuned by a friend not long ago and it has been knocking / detonating really badly and destroyed 2 pistons and possibly more. I know that the AFR's were fine as i installed a brand new sensor. Im leaning towards the ignition timing being horribly wrong because there didn't seem to be any huge problems in the way the engine was assembled and if that's true then the problem must be the ignition timing map. Below is a picture of the base map that comes with the link software (bottom) side by side with the map created by my friend (top). I have no idea about tuning ignition timing but i feel like there is way too much timing in the high map/high revs. I also know he didn't tune this using any kind of knock detection, another reason why i believe this is what has destroyed my engine. Any help is greatly appreciated, Cheers.

Hi, i started to tune my fuel map and i have this weird issue where it wants to lean out at around 2000rpm @ 2.9psi, the rest of the map is fine but in that section it demands alot of fuel to read a good AFR. Its a 2007 WRX, any help is greatly appreciated. I will upload the picture of the map and the log for reference. EDIT: After a bit of looking around i found that the base map for my car has what i assume is a typo, 26deg of advance in the VVT Table, picture below.

Update, tried a new cable and another different laptop and still have the same issue. Will organise to get it sent back.

I'm in Australia, it's not too far to send it it's more just a pain because I won't be able to use my car.

yes

There is only 1 port for USB and it says USB on the PCB where the port is, so im definitely ok there. I have tried unplugging everything except the USB and still get the same error so i believe that cancels out your other theory also. At this point i think its narrowed down to the cable or the chip. I'll be getting a new cable this week so fingers crossed its as simple as that, if you have any other ideas i'd be happy to try as i would rather not have to send the ecu away. Cheers.

I'm going to buy a new cable and see if that is what is causing the issue and also get someone locally to have a look over it first, if i still can't get it working i will arrange sending it back to NZ. Cheers.

I have tried this and get the same error, i bought a new battery yesterday and that didn't solve the issue either. I have also tried a firmware update but it tells me i am not connected to the ecu.

Yes, the engine runs on the tune that was setup previously. No, the only things plugged in are the looms for the car and the usb cable.

Hi, im having a problem connecting to my ecu, its a WRXLink 06-07. Whenever i connect the usb and open the link software and attempt to connect i get the following: "unable to connect to the ecu but usb connection is present. please cycle the power to the ecu" I have tried everything i can possibly find to fix this issue including; Selecting the COM Port found in device manager and connecting manually, Changing the baud rate to every possible selection, Uninstalling and re-installing the link software and the usb drivers (multiple times with no failures), Unplugging everything from the ecu except the usb. I get the same error message every single time. Previously i have set everything to auto and as soon as i plug the usb in with ignition on it connects instantly. I had my laptop connected a couple days ago so i don't understand why i am getting this error now. I also tried a different laptop and had the same issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated as i really need to get my tune updated. Cheers, Matt.