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ayjayef last won the day on November 15 2018

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About ayjayef

  • Birthday 06/12/1967

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  1. @Adamw = Legend Not only did you reply at what must have been 1am in NZ (I appreciate that) but of course you were correct. Pressing ENTER on the trigger offset field "set" the 241 value and it runs. Doesn't idle and I suspect the crank, warm-up and post-start enrichment values are out but now it's running I have something to work with. I'm happy to see a screen of green with no errors it happily revving to a clean, strong 8000 (about as high as I would ever rev without load). It doesn't want to start once warm (ECT 49C) but again, I'm sure I can work on that too. Thank-you very much for the excellent support!
  2. Adjusting trigger 2 arming threshold helped somewhat. Was: 0rpm = 0.3 and 1000rpm = 0.5 It's trying harder to start (popping every 3-4 seconds). "Triggers/Calibrate/Set Base Timing" shows the trigger offset at -199, I tried to change it to 241 and it "ignores" the change and continues to show -199 after pressing done. Log-h2-a.llg
  3. Thanks Adam, I'll give those things a shot and see if it shows more promise.
  4. Supercharged 4cyl bike, running E85 and Fury. Have rebuilt the engine and replaced the throttle bodies on the bike and just can't get it to fire. I've calibrated the APS and TPS on the new throttle and it looks like it's working well, fuel is good, hung a plug out the side and it sparks. I also tried adding some more crank enrichment fuel with no change. I'm lost. I know it will be something simple and hoping that someone can help. I've attached the log (pretty empty) and a cranking trigger scope. At best I get the occasional fire but nothing like it wants to run. Log-h2.llg TriggerScope-h2.llg
  5. I was going to read them before downloading the 100mb file and installing it but I'll just install it on another computer first. Thanks for the reply.
  6. The PC Link Downloads has a link to the G4+ release notes but it's pointing at the release notes for the G4X Is there a link to the G4+ release notes somewhere that I could read before upgrading?
  7. (reposting my previous question with more clarity) In RealDash under ECU specific there is: Link ECU: DI 1 Status (from DI1 to DI 12) ...but further down the list the speed inputs are: Link ECU: DI 3 speed Link ECU: DI 4 speed Link ECU: DI 5 speed Link ECU: DI 6 speed ...with no DI1 or DI2 speed listed. Anyone else see D1 and DI2 speed inputs?
  8. Using VVS1? I got the same weirdness. Anyone managed to find DI1 or DI2? I have digital 1+2 configured in the ECU for rear and front wheel speed but RealDash only shows DI3,4,5,6 speed options (which aren't in use). VSS1 and VSS2 are in there but as Ngian found, they produce odd data. Maybe we need to fudge the data in the RealDash garage?
  9. Took the ABS disc off (errr, and the brake disc). Put two "bolt, nut, nut" in every 10th hole with loctite. Added 3 custom washers to the sensor, and used a longer bolt. Spun by hand and it reads 10kmh which was about what I could spin by hand on the full 50 teeth so it looks like it's going to work okay. Front looks little trickier but I'll do the same. Thanks for the help fellas. Andy.
  10. (I was just making sure we were talking about the same thing!) That was a good tip setting 20% and 80% in that table, with some fine tweaking I have zero bounce on normal throttle roll-off and snapped shut I sometimes get a poofteenth overrun which is corrected in 0.1-0.2 seconds. PID settings are now P4.20 I 0.102 D 30% Looks like it's going to work much better now. That's heaps for your time.
  11. Good one, that clears-up the frequency difference between the help file and the logs. Considering my front wheel wasn't moving when I was on the dyno, the logged 1600Hz on the rear will have less available cycles if the front wheel is also logging. I think I'm back to one tooth or 5/10 if I can get small bolts into the slots and offset the pickup. Thanks
  12. That all makes sense. "temporarily change your AP->TP table" Do you mean the "E-Throttle 1 Target" table?
  13. Very clever left-field idea of moving the sensor out from the disc, that might be do able. Gives me something to think about, thanks CJ
  14. I was also curious why I logged 1600Hz on a channel that was meant to have a 500Hz limit, wondering if I can rely on the 1600Hz as the "real" limit? Your math helps, thanks. I get it now. 1, 5, 10 or 25 tooth are my options with these ABS discs. At 111 meters a second with a tyre circumference of 2060mm the wheel is doing 54 revs per second and 2700Hz on the sensor with 50 teeth. With 10 teeth its 540Hz and 5 teeth 270Hz but I doubt I could keep the integrity of the disc with just 5 or 10 teeth on it. 1 tooth would be more do able. Frequency divider sounds more like the right option but I doubt I'll get it done in time. I think it falls into the "future project" list now.
  15. That Wiki is tough reading, I did the best I could. Setting I and D to zero and adjusting P till it flutters, then halve it and add I to stabilise then D to clean it up. Resulted in P2.0 I.078 D5 but that wasn't good. With some more tweaking I have ended with P 4.2 I.102 D 35 which has stopped the bounce at return to zero but TPS and APS are a fair way apart. p4.2i0.102p35.llg p2i078d5.llg
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