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BeallJK

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Everything posted by BeallJK

  1. Adam - quick follow up - yea, youre 100% correct I deleted PC Link, re-downloaded, and started from a fresh z33 template and ensured the adjustments you suggested were in-effect and the car started up. Thank you again for your help -
  2. Thank you for your suggestions Adam - I appreciate your time and efforts - I will revert back to the link z33 base map and start fresh. A handful of things have not been setup or have been turned off.
  3. Sure thing and thank you for your input and help. For what it's worth - when I turn DI 1 OFF - it does flicker between 'Active' and 'Off' Looks like I am getting some movement on both logs. Am I correct, in-that, DI1 and the Trigger 1(Crank Pos Sensor) need to be in-sync before the ECU will give an ignition signal? Is it safe to assume NATS (nissan antitheft) has zero bearing on the ability to start the car? I am using the key that has started the car before but my antitheft light is on. Could this be stopping DI1 from transmitting? Thank you again - Trigger Scope Log 2024-02-11 DI1 OFF.llg Trigger Scope Log 2024-02-11 DI1 set to VVT LH.llg
  4. Hey guys - I hope everyone is doing well and I was hoping to get a little help on a issue that I believe is causing a no-start The chassis is a 2003 infiniti g35 coupe (350z) with the VQ35DE engine. I am transferring the Link g4+ that was in my 350z to this g35coupe. Essentially will be running the same setup and did a copy/paste/save-as. This setup was, for a few weeks running an OEM ECU with an old-school haltech redbox before upgrading and the car started, ran, drove fine on that setup. I cannot get the engine to start / run and I suspect its due to the left side / passenger side VVT (cam shaft position sensor) not sync'ing with the crank shaft position sensor. I do get an RPM reading from Trigger 1 (Crank Shaft Position Sensor, IIRC) and both Trigger 1 and Trigger 2 have connectivity (via runtime values menu). But I cannot get anything from DI #1 - it just says 'off' I also tried using the Link Trigger Scope and I do not think it showed any movement on the sensors. I did hook-up a hand-help oscilloscope to each of the cam shaft position sensors and the crank shaft position sensors and when cranked(attempted to start) I am seeing voltage on each single pin. Also, hooked up a basic volt-meter to each signal and I am getting voltage movement while cranking. Checked good grounds of each circuit Checked good 12v power supply of each circuit Checked good continuity back to the ECU (pins 13, 14, & 33) If anyone has a minute to review my current tune, a datalog taken while cranking, and the attached screen shots - any and all help would be appreciated. g35 Basemap.pclr 2024-02-10.llg
  5. Thank you Adam - Could I gather the brain-power of the group to critique my PDM layout - PDM #1 High Power 1 - (Pin 14 AEM 400lph Pump #2) & (Pin 20 AEM 400lph Pump #1) High Power 2 - (Pin 1 Driver Ignition Coils) & (Pin 8 Passenger Ignition Coils) High Power 3 - (Pin 7 open) & (Pin 13 open) High Power 4 - (Pin 19 + Pin 26 Starter) ADIO 1 - (Pin 21 Washer Fluid Pump) ADIO 2 - (Pin 15 Wipers Low / Wipers High) ADIO 3 - (Pin 22 Headlights High via relay) ADIO 4 - (Pin 16 Parking Lights / Reverse Lights / Indicator Lights / Brake Lights) ADIO 5 - (Pin 23 Boost Control Solenoid) ADIO 6 - (Pin 17 Starter Solenoid Signal) ADIO 7 - (Pin 24 Fuel Injectors & Flex Fuel Sensor +12v supply) ADIO 8 - (Pin 18 Crank Position Sensor / Cam Position Sensors +12v Power Supply) Sensor +5v & ground #1 - (Pin #5 Link Coolant/Fuel/Oil Pressure Sensors) & (Pin 6 Ground) Sensor +5v & ground #2 - (Pin 11 open) & (Pin 12 Ground) PDM #2 High Power 1 - (Pin 14 & Pin 20 Davies Craig Water Pump) High Power 2 - (Pin 1 AEM Dash Sensor/gauges) & (Pin 8 open) High Power 3 - (Pin 7 & Pin 13 Water Methanol Power) High Power 4 - (Pin 19 ECU Power ECU Circuit) & (Pin 26 ECU Power TB circuit) ADIO 1 - (Pin 21 Alternator Field) ADIO 2 - (Pin 15 AEM O2 sensor +12v power) ADIO 3 - (Pin 22 120watt power inverter) ADIO 4 - (Pin 16 Headlights Low via relay) ADIO 5 - (Pin 23 possibly battery iso switch) ADIO 6 - (Pin 17 VTC Solenoids) ADIO 7 - (Pin 24 Main Power) ADIO 8 - (Pin 18 Cooling Fan Relay) Sensor +5v & ground #1 - (Pin #5 open) & (Pin 6 Ground) Sensor +5v & ground #2 - (Pin 11 open) & (Pin 12 Ground) Questions: Am I forgetting anything obvious? And/or anything you’d do different? Can high beams & HID low beams run on a 20 to 25amps (via Power Output #4)? Am I ok powering 6 ignition coils off Power Output 2 (three coils on Pin 1 and three coils on Pin 8)? I would like to retain the OEM wiper stalk and OEM turn signal stalk to activate wipers / parking lights / turn-signals / hazards / headlights - is this the best way to do it? (I am researching how nissan / if nissan ran the CAN bus through the stalk) Parking lights (day time running lights) seem pretty straight forward Could headlights be run from a ADIO circuit to active a relay? Is there a way to blink signals/hazards with the PDM? All apologize for the newb questions
  6. If it was me I would keep it how the builder of the car constructed it. Maybe you ask him why he hooked it up that way? I wouldnt take on the liability of building the car - it doesnt sound like thats your role with the customer? If something does happen and grounds are wrong than it’s not your fault and you wont be held accountable to fix or pay for it. just my 2cents…
  7. I'll open with that I'd rather keep all my questions / content to a single thread and hopefully this helps people follow along and/or helps solve their problems if they're similar to mine. Background: 2003 Nissan 350z running a Link G4+ and completely fed-up with Nissan OEM IPDM - especially the first generation IPDMs where the fuses/relays are rather finicky. Goal: Get the car running using the Standalone G4+ and two Razor PDMs and hope to incorporate a keypad for some control and using some of OEM controls. Question #1 - the car is running on the G4+ and has been since 2018. I also have a G4x that I was getting ready to drop into another chassis (a separate infiniti g35) but would it be better to use the G4x with the Razor PDMs? Question #2 - Other than High Performance Academy (as I have done all their course work) is there another learning outlet that Link Razor PDM users are subscribed to, to further learn the PDM? Question #3 - is Pin 4 Ign Switch equivalent to an OEM 'accessory' stage? or 'on' stage? on an OEM key-barrel setup? Is it wise to mimic this configuration? My thought is to have a 3 stage latching switch on the key pad where the 1st push is 'accessories', the 2nd push is 'on' and a 3rd push would be off. Then have an independent button that activates the starter while the button is pressed.
  8. always wise to double check - confirmation: if you review Link's Razor Wiring Instructions item #3 it shows that grounding the negative posts to either battery negative or chassis.
  9. Chased the issue back to the IPDM and it was a faulty relay. Put a relay in it from another IPDM that I had on the shelf. My Aux 9/10 CEL has gone away (12volts on the TB motor circuits).
  10. Thank you for reviewing my datalog - I am very grateful to have your help. I will recalibrate the TP and report back.
  11. Thank you for the great explanation Adam - made perfect sense and I was able to follow your directions. I did not make any changes to the PID control for the TB It should be noted that I was having this issue on my original throttle body (from the factory in 2003) and I swapped it out with another Hitachi/Nissan OEM near-new replacment and it gave me the same issue. Link says something may have something jammed-up in the butterfly valve so I cleaned it well and it came back good. I was getting the ~.7volts and 4.4volts on each sensor circuit. Car started up and ran rough and Im still getting codes. It appears my throttle position is pegged at 100% with no movement (I dont immediately know why). APP sensor is acting normal. Im not sure if the actual butterfly valve is 100% opened or if the sensors are giving me fits or if I broke something (Something I’m going to check though? If anyone wants to take a look at the short data log it is attached - as always much appreciated! TP 100% Log.llg
  12. Grrrrrrrr ... for what it's worth ECU Fault 14 (AN Volt 2 Low) and ECU Fault Code 76 (TP(main) / TP(sub)) Tracking Error have come back. The car has sat for about 3 or 4 months as I have been working on another car and life has just gotten super busy. With the warmer weather the car starts and cranks easier even with subpar starting parameters. Adam - are the GM Throttle Body Settings (above) applicable to Nissan as well? For what it's worth - I have sensor 5v power and sensor ground confirmed I have continuity between the throttle body and the ECU connectors When I cycle the ignition I can hear the throttle body blade move No issues with the APP sensor My AN2 Voltage Main is stuck at 1.00volt and status is 'Input at 0v/gnd' I swapped out the relay in the IPDM - I can get a picture for you if you like.
  13. Follow Up to the post above: A little deeper dive - Im getting well into the 115% to 130% volumentric efficiency in areas of my e100 map in areas that had no realistic way to be above 70% VE (1000rpm to 4000rpm and 14in-hg through 0in-hg). Clearly something was not right. I had a few people review my tune and nothing jumped out. A tuner here in the states speculated that I may have recieved 1300cc injectors and not 1700cc. I didnt think this was the case but at this point I had no other clues so I told him I’d grab pictures of the box and of the actual injectors. I also have a Autel injector cleaner and I was going to flow test / inspect the injectors while they were out and if I needed to make a claim to Injector Dynamics this would be some good evidence to send their way. Long story short - I decided to run the spark plug ignition test (all the sparks fired like they should) and then ran the injector test and sure-enough injector #4 wasnt clipped in well-enough. Hat tip to Adam for his help! Appreciate everything you do!
  14. Piggybacking onto this thread a file setup / tune setup 'sanity check'. Switching over to flexfuel, going primarily e85, ID1700 injectors (calc'd to 1828cc @52psi) AEM 400lph pump, car will start / warm-up / idle well enough to get to on the dyno. But would like to get a 'ballpark' fuel tune in the car. Any feedback on my setup / settings is appreciated - My main concern: Idle VE seems high? Havent really messed with anything outside of low load/low rpm cells. 2022-12-26 flex fuel2.pclr
  15. I got this answered before and I cannot find (IIRC) the chat thread with Link ECU. Every now and again I get an RPM Limit Activated when one of my sensors tracks a given parameter out of tolerance. I thought there was a method to pull up a parameter in the Data Logging Time Plot that gave you a number of when the ECU caught the and then there was a chart that tied each number to a description that can be used for trouble shooting. Any further insight on this would be appreciated (I think the search button actually worked this time!) ] Any insight on how to best setup the RPM limit tables? Lessons Learned? Best Practices? Etc? Would be appreciate! Thank you in-advance This was helpful - maybe solves the issue :
  16. I believe the solution is to put a 5pin relay in the ignition circuit: Is it this?? If it is, send Adam thanks bc he’s the one that helped me!
  17. Thank you Adam - Great insight as always. I secretly love how Link does their own CEL nomenclature with their own fault codes. I had some time this evening to dig into Nissan’s factory service manual and back-traced it to the throttle control in the IPDM. Swapped a relay and the car is running (rough) and the faults have ceased. Thank you again!
  18. I previously reported intermittent problem with ECU Fault Code 73 AUX 9/10 Supply Error and it seems to have put my 2003 350z (VQDE) into limp mode / no start. I am about 3minutes into an engine refresh and I am still 'flushing' the block prior to break-in oil. I have run the car two or three times now for around 30seconds to 60seconds to check for leaks, make sure I have oil pressure, make sure everything is going as expected. Everything was fine and I shut the car down. When I attempted to restart the car I got the following ECU Fault Codes: ECU Fault Code 14 AN Volt 2 Below Error Low Value ECU Fault Code 73 AUX 9/10 Supply Error ECU Fault Code 76 TP(main) / TP(sub) Tracking Error and the generic error that the engine is limited to 1800rpm (it should be noted that I cannot get the engine to catch/start after cranking) I have about 13volts on the battery normally and it drops down to 8.5 to 9volts during cranking. I attached a quick datalog for reference of two cranking sessions with no start/no catch along with the tune that is currently in the car. It should be noted that it does sound like the car wants to start but doesnt and will just sputter and die Verified Fuel Pressure / Fresh fuel in the tank This is the same tune I used about a year ago when I took the engine out of the car for a engine rebuild Checked fuses, relays, made sure everything was plugged in Swapped in another TB and no change Any guidance / assistance would be appreciated! Error 14 73 76.llg warm up phase 3.pclr
  19. Thank you Adam - I appreciate the clarification. If I have further questions I'll check-back into this thread. I've always been a little foggy on when to use a pull-up resistor and your explanation helps.
  20. I first and foremost apologize for the newb question ... consider it a little bit of a learning-moment and a sanity check to ensure I am wiring correctly. I'm looking to wire-in an anti-lag activation switch (or another feature in a similar manner). I anticipate using a digital input circuit (for instance DI7 - Power Steering Pressure Sensor). Im looking to install a simple single pole switch. My sanity check: I'm assuming I need a pull-up resistor? if I set my 'On Level' to High, I will connect one leg of the switch to the ECU's 12volt power supply and the other leg of the switch to Digital Input 7 (DI7). When the circuit is open (no antilag desired) the 12volts does not reach the DI7 pin as the switch is in 'off' position. Vice-versa, when the circuit is closed (antilag activated) 12volts is going through the switch (which is in the 'on' position) and reaching DI7? Is this the best way to do it? Any better way? Am I missing anything? Thanks in advance -
  21. I do but it’s be nice not to have to ... and it’s what? $1 more cost?
  22. I performed the 'compare' feature and nothing really jumped out at me. And the problem has come back. The car runs well / smooth while in 'cam angle test' and no significant duty cycle is being applied but as soon as you turn the 'cam angle test' off the engine runs choppy. Resetting the Cam Angle Offsets did not appear to help either.
  23. If the ECUs don't go to Bluetooth / wireless how about a long USB data cord?? Many times I've needed the laptop in the engine bay and/or outside of the car and the cord (which isn't bad to start) is too short to even put the laptop on the roof. Thanks!
  24. More unexplained answers ... So I took a previously saved tune (roughly the same tune minus some minor fuel changes from maybe 2months ago) and all these VTC issues have gone away? I can't explain it and I'm not sure what to say?? I'm gonna reload PC Link and start from that older map.
  25. Thank you Adam - I appreciate your insight and instruction - surprisingly reading your instructions were clearer than what Link has in the directions. My LH Intake side is back to zero but the issue with duty cycle still remains. I can put a small duty cycle in the table but the RH Intake Target nor Duty Cycle are not changing like the LH Intake duty cycle and targets change. If I go to my F12/Runtime Values, under the VVT Status 'Inlet/LH Signal' displays "Error: Extra Pulses" and Inlet/RH Signal displays "No Signal" (I can upload a screen-shot video tomorrow). Does this indicate that my RH Passenger side VVT Sensor is not reading and/or conveying a signal? I did swap out both driver & passenger side VVT sensors and the problem persisted. Thank you again!
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