Swift

It’s a link g4+ extreme. I have to run peak and hold due the low resistance injectors. Cheers for all the answers. Hopefully I can figure it out. I’ll remove things off the aux channels one by one to see what might be back feeding.

Thank you Adam. I’ll use the battery switch to turn off power after turning the ignition switch off. This kills all power and will shut the motor off. This will be an interim measure and I’ll try to find the issue. I have peak and hold injectors and as per instructions the injectors are hot wired from the battery switch and the ecu switches them. Now I read this could be an issue? I also have two normal bulbs running through aux channels. Ce light and shift light. Any issues there? Cheers

And Adam I’d very much like to run the car Saturday. It’s no different to the way it ran before and if I run it will any voltage on the aux channels be an issue if everything runs ok? It’s only when I turn off the ignition I have the issue. If I turn off the battery switch straight away all power is cut and the ignition turns off. Cheers Glenn

I’ll try draw something up. But the aux 8 is to 85. Ignition to 86. Live feed from 12 v supply to 30. Innovate to 87. Here is a pic of all the aux channels

I see the number 8 Aux shows 10.3 volts when the ECU is on. Is this correct ? When I switch off the ignition the aux8 volts reduces to zero slowly. But the ignition bus stays powered. It’s like the ECU is powering the ignition circuit. Any help from anyone greatly appreciated

Ok I found out this. The circuit is keeping the positive bus (ignition switched circuit live) I have the aux 8 on the low side running through a fuse to the 85 terminal Adam. The number 30 is off a live circuit. The number 87 terminal goes to the innovate device. The 86 is from an ignition switched positive bus. Once I removed the fuse from the aux to terminal 85 that ignition bus is de powered. If I put the fuse back in and switch on the ignition and then turn it off again power remains on the ignition bus. I’m lost.

Thank you Adam. I’ll trace the wires and check it out. I can understand how the ecu grounds the relay to switch on the controller but I cannot understand how it holds the earth and keeps the innovate relay engaged after the ECU is switched off.?

Hi. I have a link extreme in a little race car. I have an innovate lc2 lambda sensor. When I switch on the ignition it does not run because it is on a GP output aux 8 (low side so I guess that means it’s earthing the relay) with a condition of 500 rpm before it runs. This is what the tuner set. My issue is when I turn the ignition off the lambda controller runs until the battery switch is turned off. It’s like the ECU is keeping the earth to the relay even though the ecu is offline (on my laptop it goes off line as soon as I turn the ignition off. Are there any ideas what might be happening? Cheers. Glenn

Thanks mate. Here’s a wee link to how it goes. Few teething issues with an overrev on the upshift to iron out. Scuse the crap driving but it’s a fun little car for sure. https://youtu.be/KHhpfwuxL1M

Thanks so much to the Link Support guys...Adam...Simon...I have absolutely hammered them with Numpty questions. Its going well...steep learning curve for me...but all sensors, switches and triggers are working. Coil on plugs and injectors test fine. Next is the e throttle setup. Im glad I bought the Link extreme....the support is worth it...I'd be lost without the help.

Hi. Been faffing about with our little track car. Fire breathing 1300 cc NA motor. Yeah but it’s fun to drive. so it’s a Suzuki cultus. It has a dog box now and we really need to heel and toe it on the downshift but that means a new pedal box and some learning. Enter the link extreme and a Bosch electronic throttle body and pedal. Will set the blip on the down shift with a clutch switch. its a 1989 car but has zero wire in it from 1989. I have fully rewired it.ive kept the ECU wiring separate as much as possible from the vehicle wiring. it has a 36/1 trigger wheel with a 5v Nissan CAS. The old dizzy has been modified as a sync signal. It has a Bosch MAP sensor, a gm IAT sensor. Toyota Yaris COP mod, Bosch WTS, Suzuki Baleno wheel speed sensor. I’m making an Ali sump and that will have an oil temp sensor in it. I have an oil pressure sensor for the ECU plus another for my gauge and also a 20 psi light. its fair to say it’s been quite a project rewiring the car. Not as easy as first thought. Really hard to keep thing neat and tidy! hopefully tomorrow I’ll be able to fire up the ECU for the first time. Then check all the sensors and set things up ready for the tuner. I only got the extreme as I really wanted the ability to blip. Nothing less would do it easily unless more stuff bought. the injectors and coils are setup for sequential operation. The injectors are low impedance so will be using peak and hold. Hope it all works ok!