Jump to content

dsmchris

Members
  • Posts

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

dsmchris's Achievements

  1. Yes, I switched back to a stock crank/cam sensor to eliminate the 12 tooth trigger as the problem. I will have to run another trigger scope as I could not locate the most recent one. I get the same waveform on all 4 ign outputs, even with the wiring disconnected before going through the harness to the engine compartment. I suspect one coil to be a fake, but so far it behaves the same as the other three. The coil wiring is correct and verified to work in test mode.
  2. vr4. i may have pulled up an evo base map in my comparing settings and accidentally saved a wrong one? there is no scope file, i can post up a pic of the screen on the meter. ill update when i get some time tomorrow. the car has been sitting in the basement for about 4 years. eclipsemodelled.pclr This is the ignition coil test function. Cannot do a cranking test as it is late night where I am.
  3. sequential ignition using denso 90919-02240 coils. kiggly 12 tooth trigger with cut as per included instructions stock hall effect cas. triggers check ok. ign and inj test modes display proper function. compression is equal accross all cylinders at 155-160psi injectors spray as commanded. coils fire the plugs outside of cylinders and can hear the discharge with them installed. timing light shows coil activity with the exception of cyl#1 being overactive. synced the crank trigger and tried multiple points in the process, 0, 90, 180, 270, 340-359, and got the most consistent timing mark hits at -22. tried reinitializing triggers by changing to reluctor, saving, then back to hall. put uncut stock guts back in the cas and resetup trigger. changed enough settings to have probably compounded this issue. gas is new sunoco 93 and burns fine in the other car. in test mode, the trigger gets a sawtooth waveform that starts at 0v, appears to be charging to 5.5v, then drops as it should. not a perfect square, it looks like it is charging a coil. power and ground are both good. when i turn the key to start, this signal is lost and there is an occasional blip. this even happens if i disconnect the trigger wires and test just outside of the ecu. engine has cranked at 11.98v i see no engine protections active and they are set to fuel cut. Log 2023-09-27 11;05;43 pm.llg
  4. @VegasAWD if you have enough wire exposed from the end of the loom, (not stripped, just enough to get ahold of) clamp your timing light pickup around the power wire to the coil and see if that works for you. some lights are sensitive enough to pick up the 12v supply fluctuations. another method i have had work for me is to place the timing light clamp next to the coil itself in different positions. i too am having this same issue. i can get a temporary start occasionally though, by opening the throttle slightly. it will run long enough for the wideband to heat up. i have run out of ideas, compression, spark and fuel are all there. seems to only run on one cylinder as runner #1 was the only hot exhaust.
  5. so nice to see them there, i came home and bought an ecu. whole lot of new software to learn.
×
×
  • Create New...