Fotis

How's everyone doing?
Here is a vehicle that i have tuned (FworXtuning) of a customer.
Made 345awhp and 56kgm torque at 1.7 bar boost .
My first dyno tune how does the dyno graph look to you? 
Feel free to advice me
Engine :
EJ20K stroker 2.2L
Eagle rods
Mahle ceramic coated pistons
Ihi VF43 stock turbo
Stock cylinder head no porting
Spec C top mount intercooler
Tial 38mm external
 
Fuel:
D1 spec fuel regulator
AEM fuel pump 355lph 
105 RON fuel

 
 

Only CAN2 port has 12V on it so you must have the USB cable plugged into the CAN2 port.  The USB port is quite clear, it is on the underside of the top board and there is a big arrow pointing at it.

Check your USB connector is not plugged into the CAN port on the board of the ECU. This will cause a short on laptop.

The two small pins are the coil (just like pin 85 & 86 on a normal relay) and the two studs on to are the high current contacts (just like pin 30 and 87 on a normal relay). 
How it was controlled by the OEM is anyone's guess, it may have been done by the ECU or possibly the dash or even just a circuit in the push button.  The ECU can do push button start control but you will still need an ignition switch to power up the ECU.
 

Thank you guys 

the TST185X is for the earlier revision sw20 mr2 with the 3s motor, we don't sell a plugin for the aw11 or any other 4age platform but I have seen a lot with atoms or monsoons wired into 4age vehicles.

Try contracting Mark Panic - www.panicmade.com, Im pretty sure he makes a Monsoon adapter loom for the AW11.

Thank you sir

Add pre prime fuel or increase it. Try lowering your injector timing table values, and make sure fuel rail volume does not drain back to the tank as it will take longer to build fuel pressure. 

For the subaru example the Link ECU may take up to 720deg to sync, the factory ECU may have done something more sophisticated with the extra missing teeth which would allow it to sync in wasted spark mode within 180deg.  For the honda with no missing teeth the link should sync within the same amount of time as the factory ecu as there are no special tricks they can do with that basic trigger pattern.
So for the honda, most likely a tune issue, for the subaru it will possibly never be as good as the factory startup.  

Yes 4 bikes running these with either Link or Vipec

It is a Japanese automotive standard wire known as AVSS.  Thin insulation, rated for intermittent use at 120°C.  0.75mm2 for the Red and Black wires, 0.5mm2 for the rest.
American grade TXL is quite similar.

Yep, actuator means the motor itself on the throttle. This will be wired to ethrottle+ and -
Internal to the ECU, these 2 outputs are special in that they draw their power from a separate supply (the B5 pin mentioned above). The ECU expects there to be a relay (as per the above diagram) that is feeding power to B5, and it also expects to be able to cut off that power by disabling an aux output - so one has to be configured for this.

March to June I'm told.

I dont think I have ever seen a knock sensor fail.  You will know when it is not working as you wont hear the engine noise in your ear anymore.

Typically done as a downshift blip.  You will find this function in Gear shift control, overrun downshift throttle trim.  Note it is not "rev matching", the purpose of the blip is to unload the dogs to allow it to change out of gear.  It is typically trail and error, how much you need depends on a lot of factors such as the the size of the plenium, the mass of the rotating components, throttle size and how much back cut the dogs have. 

This is from an older model but may still be relevant:

You can use the generated math channel as:
- logging channel 
- input for other function 
- axis option on tables
So it's up to your creativity what you can do. Combined with Virtual Aux and timers the possibilies are near endless! 
A few example:
Boost error channel = Target Boost - MAP
Boost error parameter can then be used to control an electric Blowoff 
Brake bias = (rear+ front break press)/ rear break press
Front Wheelspeed Difference = LF wheel speed - RF wheel speed
Used to tune your LSD differential settings
 
Slip right = non-wheelspeed - RR wheelspeed
Setup an Aux and turn on a driver warning light on the right side of the dash. So Driver knows right rear wheel is spinning faster ( eg. Attention after a curb) to another function for left. Then it looks like this :-)  from 3.00min
 
 

The crankshaft turns twice per 4 stroke engine cycle.  So the missing teeth on the crankshaft wheel can only tell the ECU where TDC is, it cant tell the ecu whether it is TDC for cyl 1 or TDC cyl 4.  Only a cam sensor can do that.
So if the ECU doesn't know if it is TDC 1 or TDC 4 then it cant fire the correct coil or the correct injector in seq/direct modes. 
Injectors don't need to be re-wired - just change the setting to multipoint group.  Coils will need to be rewired to the correct drives and ignition mode set to wasted spark.
If you want sequential or direct spark you need a cam sensor.
 

If your having trouble finding dead time information you can usually start with around 1.0ms at 14v, once you get the engine idling at a stable AFR unplug or disable the Alternator so the charging voltage drops to around 12v, tweak the deadtime information until your back at the original AFR. From there you can interpolate and get pretty close. The deadtime information isn't as critical as you might think, it normally only affects the low load areas of the fuel map.

probably not useful for you but as an indication I've got the following :
290cc 1zzfe injectors have a deadtime of 0.608msec at 14V
349cc 2zzge injectors have a deadtime of 0.93msec at 14V
But as posted above, you can start with around 1msec at 14V and then vary the system voltage adjusting the deadtimes at each breakpoint to maintain consistent AFR.
I've got a big DC power supply that I connect in place of the alternator when doing that part of the calibration

Im pretty sure in the Evo trigger modes the sync edge polarities are hard coded, so it should work fine either way.  Trigger 1 actually uses both the rising an falling edges to effectively give you 4 teeth instead of two.

On a kitcar application I would suggest going for a wirein unit the likes of the G4+ Fury being an idel pick for that application.

You can show it as a 0-100 figure via a AN volt and a cal table.

I dont see many clues to where the problem is, it appears to be a misfire.  Can you try increasing dwell to about 2.0 and give it about 25deg timing and see if it changes anything.  I assume you have changed some stuff in the attached map compared to the log as the log shows 19deg timing @ 6000 but the map shows 24deg.  
Do something like this just for a test: