Rozsko

Thx Adam. I have front cooler, so cardboarding would result pretty much the same as turning off the blower, I guess. Anyhow, Thursday is the next session on the Dyno, so will play a bit.

You were right. The heatgun has no use. So, as I have no way of ducting the the exhaust back to the intake, I figured I'll remove the coupler between the CAI and the turbo inlet and will close the bonnet. This way it is going to breath much hotter air as the engine temp is increasing. One more question on this though, when you are on the dyno doing this exercise, would you turn off the blower, so it heats up quicker then when you try to cool it down you turn it on, and repeat? Thanks

Hello Gents again, New day, new question if you don't mind. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ale4oyMCOgLThMpH8YTIGkT_LGav7A?e=DrnJvb In the log above I marked a section towards the end of the log where I was coasting in 2nd gear and above idle. The car was horribly jerking/bucking which you can clearly see from the oscillation of many logged parameters. Do you have any idea/suggestion on how to resolve this? Thanks, Béla

Right now in the process of wiring up some switches to the ECU. While I was checking the pinouts, I realiezd that ANV12, AUX14/15/16 are not shown on the pinout diagram. Am I missing something obvious here or is that really the case for some reason? Thanks, Béla

It seems that in the new version when I hit save log (not save as) it doesn't default the file name to "log-date-time". Is there some setting that controls this or was this changed intentionally? Thanks, Béla

And while doing that, you watch if the measured lambda goes rich/lean and make a correction in the charge temp approximation table until it stays relatively constant? I was thinking to try a heatgun (set to low temp).

That's what I ended up with too. Just was curious if I can make the calibration work.

Spot on. Thanks for the hint. Tried calibrating again with normalization OFF. No luck. Still getting the error-try again message.

Ok, thanks Adam. I already put in manually the values, but I like to play, so will try again the calibration with normalization OFF. The gears seem to be calculating well most of the times though, except at downshifts. Not sure why that is and why that is not happening all the time. Screenshot: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ale4oyMCOgLThMoxrGLhAy5MyofcOA

nope. The help didn't say anything like that. So is that the way to go? An other thing I realized the other day that I can't display the GP Rotary switch inputs in the log display. I can only display the Analog input itself that shows voltage but not the logical values of the switch. These parameters are displayed in the Parameters window of PCLink. Thanks

Well, first of all thanks for not hammering me for my naiveness. Makes sense. Unfortunately I just sold my scope, so for now I'll just go back to the NGKs.

Not sure if you guys have heard of these plugs, but since they don't cost a fortune and because I found some youtube reviews I would dare to say reliable (or at least convincing), I thought to give them a try. They claim that the capacitor in the body of the plug amplifies the spark so much that it ignites the A/F mixture much quicker and more predictable. Don't get me wrong, I wasn't doing this for whatever extra power, but I was hoping for a more pleasant sounding idle. Anyhow, today I fired up the car and it was quite surprising what I saw. The idle was about 6-7% leaner then before. See log screenshot on the link. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ale4oyMCOgLThMovONm-kpjzxJ7zoQ This was such a big difference, that I thought my new (licensed) LSU sensor (fitted 3 days ago) went nuts, so I changed it to a new OE Bosch LSU sensor. The result was exactly the same. Would you believe this? Is it possible that this is due to the increased efficiency and speed of the burn? Also, as you can see on the following screenshot, the idle itself got much more rough. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ale4oyMCOgLThMowpauknp5wYcmCTw Would you believe that this is due to some increased torque due to the same reason? Will try to change the PID settings to see if I can smooth it out and I might change the spark plugs again to a new set of NGK iridiums to confirm this is really due to the Pulstar plugs. Any thoughts appreciated.

just FYI - in an older post, I saw Adam suggesting to jack up the car and do the calibration like that, so I thought I give it a try before putting in the manual values. Well, it didn't work out. Same result with the error - try again message.

Thanks Adam. Hungary s@cks from this perspective, so will give it a try for the ones you mention.

Just a quick question. Do you have any idea where these ALTW connectors can be sourced? I think the part numbers are AU-06AMMM-LL6 and AU-06AFFM-LL6 (or alternatively AU-06BMMA-LL7 and AU-06BFFA-LL7) Can't find any online store where these are in stock. Thanks

ok, thanks very much.

Thanks @Vaughan. I already have that log, I just wasn't sure if I really need to use the logged gear ratio calc value or I need to manually calculate them with the Hz values of the speed input. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ale4oyMCOgLThMooP4vHvlmpIRD7Tg One more thing just to confirm, for the 5th gear, should I enter 1 as it is in the default map or should I use the logged 28.6 value and I don't need to divide the values by 5 right? Thanks

Ok, so right now I am bit nervous and confused too. Tried to do the calibration, but no luck. Tried it like 20 times or more and I just can't get it to calibrate. It always displays error-try again. Tried it in all gears, flat road, up hill, doesn't matter. So I thought to do the manual table entry, but that is confusing. The help says the table contains RPM/speed in Hz, but it also says we can use the the gear ratio calc runtime value, which is RPM/speed in kph. Did some sample calculation and obviously these end up with quite different result. So can you let me know which one should be actually used? I am also confused by the statement that the values in the table are divided by the gear that is specified as 1:1, but when user defined is selected in the setup, this 1:1 gear selection is not displayed. So should I divide all the values I calculate with 5 and store it like that in the table? As always, thanks for the help with this.

just checked again and yeah, that seems to be right. Though I swear yesterday I checked it was showing all options for all GP outputs without assigning a pin. Thank you

Just for curiosity, I opened the most recent map again to see how the GP outputs look like. Guess what. The unused ones are bad again (offline). Screenshot: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ale4oyMCOgLThMoPDuzFkeVInKWFsA So just started PCLink and opened the latest map. map: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ale4oyMCOgLThMoQu0rweWwRYs3-ew?e=xCZTta

I am not sure what it was. Maybe something along those lines. I viewed these settings offline originally, so I went and connected to the ecu and all was good. But after that I specifically opened offline the oldest map I had and all was good. Interestingly I did not even have to assign a pin to see all the expected parameters. They are displayed by default.

Today I realized something is not right around the Aux and GP outputs. When I assign an aux output to a GP output, the only option that becomes available is the test. None of the other fields/parameters (like delays) become visible. First I thought it might be something special about the injector outputs (as I want to ground the AEM wideband through that), but then I realized if I change the port on an already enabled GP output, then I still see all the parameters available. Am I doing something wrong or is this a bug in the new release? Thanks, Béla

ok, thanks. Will give it a try. With the G4+ I wasn't able to do that. for some reason I got an error during calibration. Will see if I am more successful with the G4X.

In the attached map the know control is set to OFF. However when you set it to Ignition cut (for example), you also need to change the Disable digital input parameter to off.

That looks to be correct for me. PC Link Version: 6.17.22 Firmware Version:6.17.8