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Kenian's Achievements


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  1. As adam said above you cant use AUX 9 as its only for the DBW Throttle so you will have to use another Aux 10 or 11. You will get a pre crank prime where the pump runs for like 2 seconds or so when the key is first put in the On position as it needs to prime the fuel system. As for the high speed/high boost fuel pump setup firstly the speed of the car is irrelevant as you want to swith the second pump on based on engine load not car speed. If you want the second pump to come on when you are under or close to full load then you need to tell the ecu under what condition do you want it to switch it on. Wire the pumps relay earth (pin 85) to a spare aux channel and go into the help section in PC link software and read this section on General Purpose outputs. You need to tell the software under what condition or parameters do you want to trigger the switched earth (aux output). As i said earlier you can set the switching conditions up from various options so if you want to switch it based on boost you will have to set it up as SW Cond 1 to MAP> ???kpa keeping in mind that manifold absolute pressure or MAP includes the 100kpa of atmospheric pressure so only numbers over 100 kpa are boost pressure - 100 kpa is 14.5 psi of boost pressure or 1.45psi per 10 kpa over 100 kpa. eg 140kpa of MAP pressure is 5.8 psi of boost presssure.
  2. Click AUX 9 it will bring you into a window - then just click where it says OFF and that will give you a list of options of what to assign to that channel in your case obviously Fuel pump. (have attached screenshot) In regards to the second pump to come in at full boost i have never done this but i would say you wire the second pump to a free aux channel then set that channel up as a GP OUTPUT then have the switch logic set to Cond 1 only and then set SW Cond 1 to MAP> 200kpa for example if full boost for you is 100kpa (1 bar) of positive presssure . To be honest i would probably set this to come on when your injector duty cycle is over a certain % so set INJ DC %> to 70% or something but yeah i dunno. I would just wire it up and leave the switching conditions to the tuner as they will know best.
  3. You will need to change the your igntion mode which is located under IGNITION>IGNITION MAIN>IGNITION SETUP to direct spark (with spark edge set to falling) as you now have 1 ignition coil per cylinder. I presume you will have to reassign the AC clutch and engne fan to another 2 x free aux channels and assign Igntion 3 and 4 to those channels. Once youve got it wired and setup correctly run the test igntion function and see if you are getting spark. If you are using an expansion loom it doesnt matter which free aux output channel you move the fuel pump to as long as you obviously wire the fuel pump to that pin on the expansion loom and assign it correctly - for example if you are using the expansion connector then wire the fuel pump to AUX 9 (if thats a free channel) and then assign AUX 9 to Fuel Pump. The contents section under help in the PC link software is really helpful too and explains all of the functions and what they do and how they work etc.
  4. Great - i will go through all the other grounds tommorow and make sure they are all well grounded. Now i know what i am looking for in the trigger scope i can just see if ive made any improvements after checking/cleaning/tightening all the other ground points. Thanks Again.
  5. Hi @Adamw After a bit of investigating i found that under a whole wad of electrical tape was the earthing for the main sheilded bundles that house all the trigger wiring. This had about 3 spade terminals and 3 lengths of wire to get it to the ECU. I seperated them cleaned them up a bit ran one new wire from the ecu earth pin to the 2 sheilded cable earths and terminated those nicely and actually seperated them out from the rest of the loom as who knows wtf else is going on in there that could be causing electrical interferance. Instantly the car started better and revved all the was through the rev range, idles nicely with no throttle input and restarting it once warm is no issue at all. I have added to the dropbox another log and another trigger scope of it now - does this look clean enough or is there still electrical interference that needs addressing further? Much appreciated. Kenian.
  6. Hi @Adamw i have just added the trigger scope with the ignition system turned off into the dropbox. Thanks Kenian
  7. Great thanks for your help Adam. Will get that trigger scope with the ignition off done in the morning and hopefully can get to the bottom of this. Much appreciated. Kenian.
  8. Right ok hopefully can get that trigger issue sorted. Well it wont idle at all without the throttle being open slightly - as soon as i take my foot of the gas it just dies completely. At the end of that log i didnt kill the car it just died as soon as the revs come down below about 1400 rpm or so.
  9. ahh i see. I will run another trigger scope tommorow morning with the ignition mode off. Yes it it still the stock distributor system and no it has not been modified but the person who did the type R engine conversion really hacked the wiring together and have had some strange electrical issues with sensors getting 12v instead on 5v. Grounding issues, Map sensor signal issues and IAT issues so wouldnt surprise me at all if a wiring issue causes me more headaches. Other than the trigger issue is there anything in the tune or logs that stick out as major reasons why the car wouldnt idle well or hot restart? Will post the new trigger scope tommorow. Cheers Kenian
  10. Not sure if i accidently edited he last reply but have added the cranking triggerscope to the dropbox - cheers
  11. sorry did miss that - will do that shortly - cheers Added to the box - thanks
  12. Yeah that might help aye - should be in the dropbox now - cheers
  13. Hey Guys, I have recently got my B18CR turbo EG project somewhat finished and ready to start - below is a rundown of the basic setup to give you a picture. B18CR unopened (11.1-1 CR), t3/t4 turbo, Skunk 2 70mm TB, 1000cc Xpurt injectors, 500hp Fuel pump, Link IAT pre TB in intercooler pipe, Link 4 bar map sensor, link g4+ PNP (HC96). AEM X series wideband over CAN. NGK BKR7E copper plugs - 0.60mm gapped. I have got the stock base tune map and adjusted the MS fuel number from 22 standard to 12 or so. I found the car runs ok here and once warm and the warmup enrichment compensation is not active it idles around Lambda 0.97 - 1.00. I have run through all the normal first start procedure - TPS Cal, MAP Cal and have set the base timing with the light. The car starts after a bit of cranking but definately isnt smooth or easy and once running i need to keep the throttle slightly open as it just dies as soon as it the revs start to get anywhere near 1000 rpm and trying to restart the car once it is a bit warm is impossible and will not start at all. Please note the car doesnt and has never run a idle air control solenoid (not sure if this is making things worse or not) as the previous owner has blanked it off and installed a skunk2 70mm throttle body and never had any issues idling on the standard ecu or on the link when it was still non turbo. I have attached the log of first start to get it running and obviously it dies. Please note i am messing with the MS fuel number while the cars running (between 11 and 13) to see what it likes and ive also messed with the ignition numbers in the very low load/idle areas to see if that can help it stablize the idle. I have also attached the log of cranking it the second time to try and get it going again with no joy at all. I also note the trig count error number is climbing which is obviously a problem also so i have attached a trigger scope pics and logs. Any help is much appreciated guys - just want to get it running and idling ok so i can get it out the garage - up the drive and on the trailer. Dropbox link to logs etc https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jxaai450ikyn7kj/AAD3Iit4dO7n5EmHhNwpWlpPa?dl=0 Thanks Kenian
  14. Great thanks for your prompt response Adam. It seems the MAP on these are setup on AN Volt 1 as AN Volt 3 is defaulted to the standard Narrowband Oxy sensor but yes you are correct its showing 3.42v at atmospheric for some strange reason? . I have had other issues with this loom as it has been hacked up by the previous owner and had issues like the IAT feed showing 12v instead of 5 etc. Ill run a new loom straight from the pins on the ecu side to rule out any dodgey wiring or i have the expansion loom so could even just use one of the free AN Volt channels on there. Thanks Kenian
  15. Hey Guys, I am having the below issue with my new link 4 bar map sensor install on my G4+ PNP for Honda (HC96). I have used the standard map sensor loom which worked perfecty fine on the stock map sensor and identified the +5v, Ground and signal wire using a multimeter and then just chopped and lengthened the loom and terminated the DTM pins for the link DTM plug. I have rechecked the wiring the ensure the wire orientation is correct and that im not getting power to the wrong pin or something dodgey in the wiring and everything seems right in that respect. I have changed the map sensor type from the standard honda type to "link 4 bar" in PClink. As you can see the MAP value is 285 kpa when the car is powered and if i unplug the map sensor that value of 285 gradually drops back to about 8kpa and sticks. When i try to perform the map sensor calibration function the below error shows immediatly - Can anyone shed some light on this ?? Any help much appreciated. Kenian
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