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About Kenian

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  1. As adam said above you cant use AUX 9 as its only for the DBW Throttle so you will have to use another Aux 10 or 11. You will get a pre crank prime where the pump runs for like 2 seconds or so when the key is first put in the On position as it needs to prime the fuel system. As for the high speed/high boost fuel pump setup firstly the speed of the car is irrelevant as you want to swith the second pump on based on engine load not car speed. If you want the second pump to come on when you are under or close to full load then you need to tell the ecu under what condition do you want it to s
  2. Click AUX 9 it will bring you into a window - then just click where it says OFF and that will give you a list of options of what to assign to that channel in your case obviously Fuel pump. (have attached screenshot) In regards to the second pump to come in at full boost i have never done this but i would say you wire the second pump to a free aux channel then set that channel up as a GP OUTPUT then have the switch logic set to Cond 1 only and then set SW Cond 1 to MAP> 200kpa for example if full boost for you is 100kpa (1 bar) of positive presssure . To be honest i would probably set
  3. You will need to change the your igntion mode which is located under IGNITION>IGNITION MAIN>IGNITION SETUP to direct spark (with spark edge set to falling) as you now have 1 ignition coil per cylinder. I presume you will have to reassign the AC clutch and engne fan to another 2 x free aux channels and assign Igntion 3 and 4 to those channels. Once youve got it wired and setup correctly run the test igntion function and see if you are getting spark. If you are using an expansion loom it doesnt matter which free aux output channel you move the fuel pump to as long as you obviously wire
  4. Great - i will go through all the other grounds tommorow and make sure they are all well grounded. Now i know what i am looking for in the trigger scope i can just see if ive made any improvements after checking/cleaning/tightening all the other ground points. Thanks Again.
  5. Hi @Adamw After a bit of investigating i found that under a whole wad of electrical tape was the earthing for the main sheilded bundles that house all the trigger wiring. This had about 3 spade terminals and 3 lengths of wire to get it to the ECU. I seperated them cleaned them up a bit ran one new wire from the ecu earth pin to the 2 sheilded cable earths and terminated those nicely and actually seperated them out from the rest of the loom as who knows wtf else is going on in there that could be causing electrical interferance. Instantly the car started better and revved all the was throu
  6. Hi @Adamw i have just added the trigger scope with the ignition system turned off into the dropbox. Thanks Kenian
  7. Great thanks for your help Adam. Will get that trigger scope with the ignition off done in the morning and hopefully can get to the bottom of this. Much appreciated. Kenian.
  8. Right ok hopefully can get that trigger issue sorted. Well it wont idle at all without the throttle being open slightly - as soon as i take my foot of the gas it just dies completely. At the end of that log i didnt kill the car it just died as soon as the revs come down below about 1400 rpm or so.
  9. ahh i see. I will run another trigger scope tommorow morning with the ignition mode off. Yes it it still the stock distributor system and no it has not been modified but the person who did the type R engine conversion really hacked the wiring together and have had some strange electrical issues with sensors getting 12v instead on 5v. Grounding issues, Map sensor signal issues and IAT issues so wouldnt surprise me at all if a wiring issue causes me more headaches. Other than the trigger issue is there anything in the tune or logs that stick out as major reasons why the car wouldnt idle well
  10. Not sure if i accidently edited he last reply but have added the cranking triggerscope to the dropbox - cheers
  11. sorry did miss that - will do that shortly - cheers Added to the box - thanks
  12. Yeah that might help aye - should be in the dropbox now - cheers
  13. Hey Guys, I have recently got my B18CR turbo EG project somewhat finished and ready to start - below is a rundown of the basic setup to give you a picture. B18CR unopened (11.1-1 CR), t3/t4 turbo, Skunk 2 70mm TB, 1000cc Xpurt injectors, 500hp Fuel pump, Link IAT pre TB in intercooler pipe, Link 4 bar map sensor, link g4+ PNP (HC96). AEM X series wideband over CAN. NGK BKR7E copper plugs - 0.60mm gapped. I have got the stock base tune map and adjusted the MS fuel number from 22 standard to 12 or so. I found the car runs ok here and once warm and the warmup enrichment compe
  14. Great thanks for your prompt response Adam. It seems the MAP on these are setup on AN Volt 1 as AN Volt 3 is defaulted to the standard Narrowband Oxy sensor but yes you are correct its showing 3.42v at atmospheric for some strange reason? . I have had other issues with this loom as it has been hacked up by the previous owner and had issues like the IAT feed showing 12v instead of 5 etc. Ill run a new loom straight from the pins on the ecu side to rule out any dodgey wiring or i have the expansion loom so could even just use one of the free AN Volt channels on there. Thanks Kenian
  15. Hey Guys, I am having the below issue with my new link 4 bar map sensor install on my G4+ PNP for Honda (HC96). I have used the standard map sensor loom which worked perfecty fine on the stock map sensor and identified the +5v, Ground and signal wire using a multimeter and then just chopped and lengthened the loom and terminated the DTM pins for the link DTM plug. I have rechecked the wiring the ensure the wire orientation is correct and that im not getting power to the wrong pin or something dodgey in the wiring and everything seems right in that respect. I have changed the map sensor ty
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