Mikau

Working on getting the DBW PID dialed in and noticed no matter how much I may sway the settings I always end up with 2-5% of TP/Target Error. Now realistically I wouldn't expect to ever bounce the throttle as shown in the log I've posted but occassionally taking my foot off the pedal quickly from full I can hear a slight bounce of the throttle blade and roughly 2-3% of error. Is this to be expected with the motor not running and is it an acceptable amount of error? Throttle Body in Question is a Bosch 68mm DBWPid.llg DBWPid.pclr

Seems to have done the trick, little bit of tweaking and more appropriate injectors would help I'm sure but it's loads better. Only thing I'm unable to pin point at the moment is the Neutral/Park Switch. I see it's available over CAN but what signal is the Link expecting? I'd assume "0" for Drive and "1" for P/N? If a physical connection is required/preferred that shouldn't prove too difficult to make happen. CL Idle -Adam (Altered).pclr Idle-IgnControl-Warm.llg

Apologies, it’s equipped with a Bosch 68mm DBW. My assumption was Gear input was enough. Park/Nuetral is not configured on either side but I am able to assign an output via Can on the HTG.

Currently the Gear Input is via Can as this car is currently equipped with an HTG Controller that's sending the signal. Is there a work around for this? I'll re-enable idle Ignition control, and give your suggested tables a shot. APS and TPS were calibrated prior by myself. I have Pedal Inputs to be sent as raw voltage via Can to the HTG (Stream 8) and sent back to the Link (Steams 9&10). They use a throttle control modifier they have dubbed "DBW Mod" to handle the cuts and blips during shifts. This being the case I was informed that Limp mode is triggered immediately at "Key On" unless in setup mode, I've yet to try tackling this problem myself.

Currently trying to fix/correct my lack of DBW Idle. Long story short discovered the Tuner had left Idle configured as a CL IAC/Stepper and it had always idle hunted/surged. (From day one the car has been DBW) Wanting to correct this after discovering how wrong it was I took it upon myself to try and learn how to set this up proper with the help of several posts here on the forum and an HPA specific video. Now while that's all fine and grand, I'm no tuner. Currently the car surges around target idle in both OL and CL, with the occasional bogging like the ecu has lost it's place. Upon putting the car in gear it also drops to about 5-600rpm, adding 1.0-3.0 to the Park/Neutral Step-up Table only seems to effect Idle when out of gear. I'm sure this is a clear misunderstanding on my part. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. 2JZ-vvti Bosch 2200cc Injectors - I'm sure this alone doesn't help with idle but for the time being new injectors aren't in the budget Pump - Aero 3.5 Brushless BC 264 Cams CL Idle.pclr Idle Log.llg In gear stall.llg

I wanted to update this as the problem did come back, turns out the USB boards in my Lenovo laptop were dead/dying (apparently common for the L14 and similar years). Luckily the USB-C port is unaffected as far as I can tell, so a simple adapter and all is well for now.

It might just be this laptops installation of Windows enterprise edition (was a recycled/secondhand university staff laptop), can't say for sure. What I can confirm is that reinstalling/rolling back to Windows 10 seems to have done the trick. I do however appreciate the help from yourself and Ko trying to make heads or tails of all this. Both on and off theres no sudden drops of response or studders taking place now. Windows10Fixed.pclr

I was able confirm with and without the CanF connected the problem persists. Luckily a more computer literate friend came by and noticed a huge spike on the laptop itself in CPU usage upon connecting to the link and almost max memory usage taking place. He suggested rolling back to windows 10 as that’s what was originally on the laptop when this setup was in the other chassis last year. I’ll report back with results.

I currently have the CanF plug in use and wires in place for only Can H/L. Ive yet to make it back to the shop but will remove the plug completely tonight to compare differences. I’ll also pull the CanF plug apart and inspect for anything unusual. If nothing is found visually is there a way to test the rs232 pins themselves to confirm anything for you?

Solid point on drivers, I’m less skeptical of the ignition or physical hardware of the laptop as it was the native laptop from the previous chassis this was in prior. By serial connection are you referring to the plug next to the harness headers on the body of the ecu? It will exhibit similar behavior when even the engine is not running I’ve discovered. I did find a CANBus network collision in my new HTG setup that I thought was addressed. At the moment both the chassis, RealDash and HTG seem content. Not sure if perhaps I still have an issue and it’s related to this?

First off - Not sure if this is the appropriate page but being as this occurred on a G4+ Fury it seemed the most appropriate. Recently finished a car, all is well. Fire car up, connect, all goes as usual for the first 2-3 seconds as live data shows up then UI goes unresponsive on PCLink and the whole PCLink UI for that matter. After a minute or two data feed comes back with a slight delay for roughly another 2-3 minutes then proceeds to go unresponsive again. 50/50 shot after that if PClink comes back or goes unresponsive. Restart PClink and repeat. Is there anything that might be causing the USB connection to not be happy that I'm unaware of? OS is Windows 11 on a Thinkpad L14. To clarify this whole setup (2JZ, Harness and Fury) was transferred from a running car to another chassis. Nothing obvious is jumping out to me on what might be causing this so any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Solved. While setting up my custom layout in Realdash I selected the previously mentioned "Specific ECU Input -> Gear Shifter Position" this was incorrect and so was "Transmission -> Gear." The correct Gear Input in the Link preset was under "Body Electronics -> Gear."

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays, With the free time off work I've had time to start playing with Realdash more and have run into a bump with getting gear input to display properly. I'm currently using the DASH2PRO preset on the Link side of things and then I have the "Gear" on Realdash set to "Specific ECU Input" -> "Gear Shifter Position." Now in PCLink I can see all gear inputs correctly as 1-7, although on the Realdash side I'm only seeing "R" no matter what gear I might have the car in. Edit: Although this might be more on the RealDash side I’ve had zero luck registering an account. Currently still waiting on support/admins to activate my account.

Adam, moved GCU to CAN1 and we’re smooth on the tach again. Can only assume something I had in there upset the dash like you had guessed. Thank you for the assistance!

I’ll give it a shot and report back shortly. That being the case on stream 2 (513) do you have any notes on what’s expected on bytes 2,3 and 6,7? As I have those assigned for AP Main and MAP currently as inputs to the GCU. Sounds like moving to CAN1 might be the move to make all around as you’ve suggested.